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I have a 9 x 24 Workshop model that was built in 1935, which I understand was the first year of this type. (Bought it from Plaza Machinery VT 6 years ago.) It differs from later models in that the spindle thread is 1 3/8 x 10 rather than 1? and it does not have a lever for reversing the spindle direction. To reverse the spindle a separate gear on a shaft is inserted in a hole on the back of the headstock which then lines up with and is meshed into the gear train. (I made the shaft myself from plans Joe of Plaza sent and bought the gear from Boston Gear.) Does anyone else have any experience with this type of machine?

Hi, My name is Webb and I love old South Bend Lathes. I have owned several 9" models over the past 18 years and have refurbished several for others. I have been collecting information on these lathes and can help those who are new to South Bend Lathes and need some insight. I don't want to come off as a "know it all" but I will help if I can. I believe in an open forum and the friendly and honest exchange of information. I hope to be able to contribute and to learn from those who have more experience than I do. Currently, I am restoring several South Bend Lathes. Most are "Heavy Ten"s but I have one 9" cabinet model that I started rebuilding when I came across the other lathes. Well, I guess that have said enough for now. Good Luck and Happy Machining! - Blue Chips - Webb

Hi to All, Have any of you noticed the unit codes on the sub-assemblies of your lathes? I have been looking at them for a few years and have come to some conclusions. Let's look at the apron on a model A lathe as an example. Your lathe may have a code like this: A 101 NK the first letter identifies the sub-assembly. (A - apron, C - compound, H - headstock, etc.) The number identifies the generation or design. (100 - first generation, 101 - second gen. etc.) I have seen headstocks as high as 117! The letters in the suffix identifies what size lathe the sub- assemblies fit. (N - nine inch, K - 10K, R - heavy ten, L - heavy ten (large spindle), T - thirteen inch, F - 14 1/2", H - sixteen inch). Early nine inch lathes would have an apron code like: A 100 N Because there wasn't a 10K lathe yet. Of course, sub-assemblies unique to the nine inch machines wouldn't have a "NK" suffix code. This information can come in useful when scrounging for parts and accessories. For example, a steady rest may have a unit code stamped adjacent to the inverted "vee" way like: SR 100 N which decodes into: SR - steady rest, 100 - first generation, N - nine inch lathe. Not all accessories were stamped with unit codes (early stuff wasn't). But you can still identify stuff sometimes. Most of the South Bend Lathe castings have "SMF" cast in them somewhere (Southbend Metal Foundry?). Sometimes you can see a part number cast into the part. These usually start with PT and will end with the same suffix codes mentioned before. Now a note of interest; some attachments and parts of sub-assemblies will fit more than on size lathe. The apron example is straight forward but let's say you have the upper portion of a steady rest and the part number is something like: PT #### NR. This means that it fits lathes nine inch through heavy ten (i.e. N, K, and R lathes). I have seen exceptions to these rules. The main one I can think of is the saddle. Most saddles will have codes like: S 102 NK but I have seen some that are S 400 NK and these seem to be a little heavier in the webbing of the casting at the back that forms the rear "vee" way. Also, as a side note, the quick-change gearbox on early nine inch machines had only one oiler on top while later machines have two. I don't know when this change occurred or if this is when the 10K machine came out. But I think this change was made before the 10K came out. Let me know what you have observed on your machines. Good Luck! - Blue Chips - Webb

What I did was machine a new tail stock baring in brass and made it a tight fit. The reasen I did this was the hole thing was lose and I figured out if the baring was tight it would fix every thing. It sure did and I added a oiler to it, I would check your barerings in the tail stock, the hand wheel on mine was moveing .075 side to side. Sorry about the pictures is not clear. Brett

Hello all, I have acquired a Vintage Model C South Bend 9" Metal Lathe that I was thinking of using for woodturning. I have gotten some feedback for woodturning use on some message boards and it seems problematic in this purpose. So now I am thinking I am going to have to part it out on Ebay, but it seems a shame to part out such a nice vintage machine. I have had alot of fun trying to get info on the lathe, today I called South Bend with info I got on this board (thanks Paul) and found out it shipped December 16th, 1935!!!! I got it from an elderly lady who's husband passed away last year. He used it as a hobby lathe she says. He seemed to take pretty good care of it. It ran smooth when I ran it before buying it. I don't see any excessive wear anywhere. Was basement kept---so not really any rust!! Was a real tough job taking it down and hauling parts out of the basement though!!!! It still has the original Delco 1/4 HP motor on the countershaft I believe. Mechanisms seemed to work pretty smoothly from what I checked. I got all the chucks and tooling along with it. So I was wondering if there was any interest here in a Vintage 9" Model C. Would be great to put effort into repainting and restoring fully, I think it's a good base for this, nice condition. I live outside of Chicago. If not really much interest here, I'll part it out on Ebay. Just thought it would be nice to keep it together, if there was interest. Would consider trade for Quality/Vintage Woodturning Lathe. Just let me know. Thanks Alot. Very informative board. David Barishman dkbear@...

I expect to get to the point pretty soon where I'll want to make my 9" SB a little more presentable, so short of hot-tanking the whole thing (in parts form) all at once, I'd like to do a subsystem at a time at home. That may not be terribly practical, and seeing how nice Jim's green machine turned out, hot-tanking is an option. I'd just hate to loose a part. Are there any procedures/products for the garage folks can recommend for stripping the parts down to bare metal? I noticed that acetone does seem to take off some of the paint, but that could be expensive/slow/hazardous. What kind of prep work did people do after reaching bare metal? What brands of paint and methods of application work the best? Thanks, Paul R. Hvidston ACKSYS Engineering Upland, CA

Thanks to all who have responded to my post, and I appreciate the encouragement, I thought it would be great for woodturning, although the lower speeds of the metal lathe concerned me. I emailed the company and asked about using a 3/4 HP variable speed motor I have (500-5000 rpms) to kick up the speed a bit, but they said that it would be too much torque. They also discouraged me from using it for woodturning and said parts for woodturning were discontinued 30 years ago. I am really intrigued about the idea of have a carriage and using it in woodturning. I thought it would be excellent for pens and small round boxes, also the boring capabilities would add to this. I have to believe that the precision that these machines have would be a real asset. So now if I want to use this lathe for woodturning, could I use a 1/2 HP motor, I have one of those too--- 1725 rpm like original. It would give a little more power, but same speeds. Also,I need help to identify some of the tooling I have. Some I can figure out, but there is alot of stuff I'm not sure of. I identified some though looking at Ebay ads and SB web site. Where do I even begin to start restoring this thing? Totally take it apart? I've got it broken down right now into the main removable pieces because I had to get it out of a basement. Headstock, Tailstock, Bed Etc. Any tips on repainting? Cleaning out gears and such? Someone mentioned making or having a woodturning type toolrest made, who could make one? Thanks all for encouragement. I think I will be looking alot on this board now. This is gonna be alot of work I think. And I just picked up an old Atlas table saw that I'm gonna need to work on, I'm in for alot ahead, but I really love the old tools. Bye for now! David

I have been looking for a Heavy 10 for some time now and thought I had found one but the guy wanted the money upfront to finish rebuilding it. The ways had been scraped and it "looked" to be in good shape. I read the how to check an old lathe on the Southbend site and as I said it Looked good. Well anyway I'm still in the market. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area if anyone has any leads I could sure use them. Thanks Tracy Knight

I'm shifting gears from woodworking to metalworking and have documented the restoration of my 1941 SB at http://www.salisbury.net/west/home.htm I hope that that you all will find this site informative. :^) Mike

For those of you who do not know me, I am the group moderator. I started this group last month in hopes of gathering and sharing ideas about my newly acquired 9" SB Model A. I am overwhelmed with the turn out. Some great idea and discussions have already taken place. I thought it would be a great idea for us to give a little background about ourselves. I will start out and hope others will follow. My name is Jim Taylor and I am 39 years old. I live in Nova Scotia, Canada and have worked for Michelin Tire for over 20 years as a maintenance troubleshooter and now in spare parts and procurement. While employed with Michelin, a childhood friend and I started a Machine and Fabrication shop in 1983. With a staff of between 6 - 8 people, we serviced the majority of manufacturing and processing plants in our area. We also designed equipment for the manufacturing industry. I have since sold my interest in the machine shop and now I am setting up shop again in my basement for fun. I am hoping to that my experience in running a machine shop and my current purchasing job can contribute to this group in finding and souring parts and materials or problem solving. I would also like to take a moment to thank Paul Hvidston for his contribution to this group. He has been a great asset in keeping this group alive. Keep Up The Good Work Paul. Lets here from all of you. Jim

Hi I'm joining the list. I have a 9" Model A South Bend lathe. According to the invoice I have in my hand it was purchased from the Carey Machinery Supply Co. Baltimore, MD on 1/3/47. I purchased it from the original owned a few years ago in Eureka, CA so it traveled a bit. It is a bench top model about 30" between centers. Length 4 according to the tag on the gearbox. It seems to be in excellent condition, only a few aluminum chips here and there and a bit of surface rust (only enough to color a few things brown). The handle on the cross slide is bent, not the screw, the handle. Is it soft enough to bend back cold or should I heat it to bend it. Just for fun, it cost $283 new and the Jacobs chuck with it cost $15.30. The 4-jaw chuck was $34.15. Have a great day Larry Buerer

Hello all. I'm a 43 y/o Southern California Consulting Engineer in the Internet/desktop/real-time software development area. I'm currently developing wireless networking for PDAs and notebooks. On to the fun stuff. Besides electronics, ham radio and music, I've been doing fine woodworking for over 20 years, wood turning for about 8. I've added metal working the last couple of years. It started with a Grizzly 7x10, then I picked up a couple of Taigs at an estate sale (an old old Micro Lathe and a newer Micro Lathe II). I acquired my dream lathe - a 1941 9x36 SB model A this last December. I wish I could say that I plan on using the lathe for work, but I just love learning about old tools and the SB certainly qualifies. The dream started many years ago with a copy of "How to run a lathe" and several editions of the Henry Ford Trade School Shop Manual. I love old books too! My wife's an antique dealer so I get lots of old machining books. Back to the SB. Mine originally had a roller-bearing headstock w/o back-gear, but I just installed a standard headstock so I could get slower speeds with torque. I've got a lot of cleaning, painting and tweaking to do, but I'm having fun. I put together a quick web page for the lathe and I plan to formalize it as I get more work done on the lathe. http://209.150.72.7/SBL/index.html I've got deadlines so that's all for now. Keep the dialog and sharing going! Paul R. Hvidston ACKSYS Engineering Upland, CA p.hvidston@...

I've been using 9C for many years and really had no idea what oil I should really be using. The only information I found was to use a 10W machine oil and that's what I've been used. The lubrication chart that was recently posted was a big help. Now I know what I should be used. And that got me thinking. Having been automotive air conditioning mechanic for many years I knew the automotive A/C oil is a 500 viscosity. Further research tells me the standard viscosity used in home and commercial air conditioning systems is 150 to 300 viscosity. All of these oils are highly refined low wax content non-detergent and hold their viscosity through a wide range of temperatures. They can be purchased in small quantities 1 gallon or less at any refrigeration supplier or automotive parts store (R12/134A) only. Standard oils for the R12, R22, are high quality machine oil . They are nontoxic and completely safe to use. The oils that I have use have little or no smell a plus for anyone that has allergies to strong smells like me. Warning do not using the (PAG) oil use for the 134A refrigerants systems. This oil is highly toxic and will take the paint off of any surface it comes in contact with. Do not using it. Castrol Retro A/C oil used for the 134A and R12 automotive air conditioning systems is a 500 viscosity oil and is considered safe to use. Also some air compressor oils are 100 viscosity non-detergent and should be suitable to use. These oils should be a suitable replacement for the Southbend oils if you can't find the original oils anywhere else. You can also use non-detergent motor oil as a substitute a 10W oil is the same as 100 viscosity the. 50W is the same as 500 viscosity. don't know if this conversion was mention before. Do not using multigrade oils or standard motor oils that have detergent in them. I hope this helps. Rick

Well here is my info on me I am Brett Hurt age 47 work for county Propation department for the last 15 years and hope to retire from the salt mines in 7 years. I learned about machine work in the Army when I was a welder there. And thought man this is neat. So after 5 years in the green machine I went to the JC. and learned to be a michinest. Did that some what but moved on to probation better money. About 10 years ago I got entersted in phonographs but found out that I like to restore them. SO I have a back ground in welding and machine work. I would fix a few make some money buy a tool. So in time, I was over my head and need some machine work found a very nice old guy with lots of stuff to do my machine work. Then the big ? mark came up (Brett) go get a lathe you neeeeeeeeeeeeed one. I ask the nice old guy if he knew of any. And sure as that he said, he had a friend that had a South Bend for sale. I bought him lunch and came home with the 1940 South Bend got for $500.00 out the door and he had rebuilt it. Been very happy ever since. So on Sundays when I do most of my resto's I get to play with it. I now want a 13 in. Have a enco mill-drill and all the other stuff you need. If you would like to look at my web site go there Brett & Cherlys phonograpg page Ho I almost for got I have a very sweet wife who lets play in the shop. Some times she will say Brett when did you get this. and I will say your dad gave it to me. Ya sure. But I neeeeeeeeeeeeeded it!

the reference to oil viscosity came from the modern refrigeration and air conditioning manual. In the electric motor selection describes using S.A. E. 20 or S.A. E. 30 ( 200 to 300 viscosity ) this book could be wrong of course the WebSite to refer to could also be wrong. I will look this upin my engineering book and get back to you. Rick From: "Paul R. Hvidston" <p.hvidston@i...> Date: Thu Feb 1, 2001 4:49am Subject: Re: [southbendlathe] lubrication You can also use non-detergent motor oil as a substitute a 10W oil is the same as 100 viscosity the. 50W is the same as 500 viscosity. don't know if this conversion was mention before. From the McMaster-Carr website, you get the following equivalents: SAE 5W == 100 SUS (SB Type A) SAE 10 == 215 SUS (SB Type B) SAE 20 == 315 SUS (SB Type C) Could you be off by a factor of about 2? Paul R. Hvidston Upland, CA

I have added a nice Oil Viscosity Chart to the File database. It converts Saybolt units (SUS @100) to Industrial Oils and Motor oils. This confirms the last postings regarding the 10/20/30W nondetergent oils equaling the Southbend lathe requirments.

First, since I am new at this one, is there an easier way to post a message without emailing it in, if so, please post. I live in Southeast Texas, I am 50, was introduced to machining back in the 60's at the high school shop. Marine Corps for a short, worked for one of Texaco's largest refinery's for 13 yrs, laid off in '84 (some of you older ones will remember the down turn in the oil industry), and have been working since '86 for the TX Army National Guard, will soon retire from that - only to find another job (unfortunately retirement pay isn't all that great) no complaints, kept a roof over my head, and most of the time a full belly. Can't rightly remember when I got my little 9"SB, not a machinist by trade, but will be my next career, though, probably until the end. Really enjoy the machining, also, do wood working as well. Unfortunately, this area is the "oil country" and most surplus/used machinery is large, unlike the common smaller ones (atlas/SB) that can be found up North (envy). Finding the 9" was a stroke of luck, it was an estate sale, a bench model, and it was all in pieces. Over time have added a double pedestal cabinet, made wood draws for the larger pedestal, just never got around to the other, yet. The 9" has been under constant refurbishing since I got it. Believe in keeping it up, and since it is of the type that has non-harden ways, it'll wear fast. It's nice to have a lathe at home for odd jobs. Enough. It is nice to have a group of SB enthusiast. Carl

Hi all, My name is Chris and I'm a 47 y/o Captain/engineer/just-about-anything-else to do with things seagoing. I started working with lathes in high school too many years ago. My stable includes a 1952 13" SB with a 6' bed, a Burke Millrite, a 20" Clausing v/s drill press and a 14" Walker Turner band saw, as well as a 35 year collection of mechanics and woodworking tools. I've been Captain on square riggers, schooners and steam yachts and am now involved as engineer in a damn the cost restoration of a 93' motor yacht for an owner who wants only the best. Talk about a dream job! Anyway, that's how I can combine work (boats) and hobby (machinery and more boats). Cheers,Chris

I'm glad someone posted a chart on this it doesn't tell the complete story but it is good enough for a reference According to the standard handbook of mechanical engineering the SAE viscosity rating with the W is based on SUS standard. Others without the W is not. The viscosity viscosity is based on to temperatures 0 degrees Fahrenheit and 210 degrees Fahrenheit. a maximum and minimum viscosity for each temperature is used. It is a very loosely applied standard which may include a wide range of viscosity. A chart given in the book shows SAE rated oils vs. the SUS standard. At approximately 120 degrees SAE oils x10 follow the same viscosity as the SUS rating. In another section of the book describes converting SAE rated as follows ( W x 10 ) it is only a rough conversion not intended to calculate actual viscosity the actual viscosity can only be determined by a testing facility Rick

I contacted SB to see if the will regrind beds. They informed me this is a common service they provide. Price is as follows in US Dollars. Regrind bed and refit saddle is $750.00 plus about 3hrs labor for hand scrapping $90.00/hr. Takes about 3 -4 weeks to complete. This amounts to about $1020.00 plus shipping. If I lived in the USA, I would not think twice about getting this done. However, being a Canadian, Shipping, customs and exchange rates make it much less attractive. They still make the 9" lathe but call it a South Bend 10-inch Precision Lathe. The price is a whooping $12,000.00. So having the bed reground maybe worth it. Go to the SB home page and look at the 10" lathe. Has not changed is over 60 years. Jim --- In southbendlathe@y..., hsmth656@c... wrote: > --- In southbendlathe@y..., "Paul R. Hvidston" <p.hvidston@i...> > wrote: > > Karl, > > > > Welcome, and looking forward to some pictures of your SB and stuff > you made with it (and for it???). I'd like to hear what you do to get > around a worn bed. > > > > This goes for everyone in the group: please feel free to share > things you do to get around the peculiarities of SB lathes, and do > more with yours. I'm in the learning mode, so all of this is > appreciated. > > > > Cheers! > > > > Paul R. Hvidston > > Upland, CA > > Paul, > > The worn bed is a problem that can only be resolved by grinding or > scraping and either way is expensive, more than the value of the > lathe, ulness you do it yourself which few of us can do. Most of the > parts for the models I make are fairly small and the worn bed does > not cause me much trouble. I just have to be careful and of course > carefully measure and check each part. > > Karl