Re: Wiring a Korean 10K switch
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:
one more pic. and disclaimer? 
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Re: Wiring a Korean 10K switch
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:
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Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 03:13:45 PM CDT, wmrmeyers@... <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:
50hz motor should run fine on 60hz, or vice versa. Do not try running a 400hz motor on 60hz, though. You WILL let the magic smoke out. Done it.
I wouldn't try running it full time under full load (pump or HVAC), but running a lathe should be OK.
Spent 3 years in Turkey, and 4 in Germany, running lots of stuff on 50hz power. Things that depend on the? line voltage frequency for timing will be off, like clocks. Vacuums, saws, and grinder, etc., are just fine.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)?
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 02:46:17 PM CDT, Ray via groups.io <rbruss9644@...> wrote:
?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:
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Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,
Inside the wiring cover on the end of the motor you will find another diagram for wiring the motor.? ?Match that up to your switch diagrams and you'll be good to go!
On Tue, Aug 6, 2024 at 2:56 PM, Jim_B <jim@...> wrote: Should run ok but speed will increase 20%.? On Aug 6, 2024, at 3:46?PM, Ray <rbruss9644@...> wrote:
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?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:
I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos. <IMG_1818.jpeg> <IMG_1815.jpeg> <IMG_1816.jpeg> <IMG_1817.jpeg>
<IMG_1817.jpeg> <IMG_1816.jpeg> <IMG_1815.jpeg> <IMG_1818.jpeg>
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Jim B
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Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,
50hz motor should run fine on 60hz, or vice versa. Do not try running a 400hz motor on 60hz, though. You WILL let the magic smoke out. Done it.
I wouldn't try running it full time under full load (pump or HVAC), but running a lathe should be OK.
Spent 3 years in Turkey, and 4 in Germany, running lots of stuff on 50hz power. Things that depend on the? line voltage frequency for timing will be off, like clocks. Vacuums, saws, and grinder, etc., are just fine.
Bill in OKC?
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)?
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 02:46:17 PM CDT, Ray via groups.io <rbruss9644@...> wrote:
?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:
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Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,
Should run ok but speed will increase 20%.?
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On Aug 6, 2024, at 3:46?PM, Ray <rbruss9644@...> wrote:
?
?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:
I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos. <IMG_1818.jpeg> <IMG_1815.jpeg> <IMG_1816.jpeg> <IMG_1817.jpeg>
<IMG_1817.jpeg> <IMG_1816.jpeg> <IMG_1815.jpeg> <IMG_1818.jpeg>
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Jim B
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Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,
Yes
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
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-------- Original message -------- From: Ray <rbruss9644@...> Date: 8/6/24 13:46 (GMT-07:00) Subject: [SouthBendLathe] ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,
?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:
I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.
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' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,
?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?
On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:
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Wiring a Korean 10K switch
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I installed the VFD for my South Bend 16 on the back side of my drive pedestal where the original owner had a disconnect switch mounted. Since the cast?iron mount for the Cutler-Hammer F/R drum switch was broken, I cut the damaged portion off and fabricated?an adapter and mount for my 22mm 5 unit pushbutton control station incorporating Start/E-Stop/Jog/F-R switch/Speed pot control devices. This is the same setup I used on my Wells-Index 55 mill and my South Bend?9A.? The inverter on the 9A was mounted on the backside of the motor cabinet while the inverter for the Wells-Index was mounted on the side of the column where some of the original mechanical table drive components were located.? The mill had been converted to a normal table system using the same motor drives used for Bridgeports.
James On Wed, Jul 24, 2024 at 9:47?PM George Meinschein via <gmeinschein= [email protected]> wrote:
Thank you to everyone that responded!? I think I've settled on VFD attached to the wall and remote control on the stalk where the original Cutler-Hammer fwd/off/rev drum switch is currently mounted. I like the look of the original drum switch, so I might retain the outward appearance and mod the inner workings to match the control circuitry needed for the VFD.? Probably should add a big red stop button somewhere handy because centering the drum switch to the stop position might prove challenging once things go sideways.
That brings me to a side note. I put a 1hp VFD on my Bridgeport a little while ago.? That new VFD cost me just over $200.? I checked prices on the Cutler-Hammer drum switch that I took off the Bridgeport and about fell over!? Sold the old used drum switch on ebay for $200!? A self-supporting hobby! Life is good!
Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.
Firearm and Ballistics Engineering LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728
gmeinschein@...
Cell#: 732-580-1736
Sent from Proton Mail Android
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Thank you to everyone that responded!? I think I've settled on VFD attached to the wall and remote control on the stalk where the original Cutler-Hammer fwd/off/rev drum switch is currently mounted. I like the look of the original drum switch, so I might retain the outward appearance and mod the inner workings to match the control circuitry needed for the VFD.? Probably should add a big red stop button somewhere handy because centering the drum switch to the stop position might prove challenging once things go sideways.
That brings me to a side note. I put a 1hp VFD on my Bridgeport a little while ago.? That new VFD cost me just over $200.? I checked prices on the Cutler-Hammer drum switch that I took off the Bridgeport and about fell over!? Sold the old used drum switch on ebay for $200!? A self-supporting hobby! Life is good!
Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.
Firearm and Ballistics Engineering LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728
gmeinschein@...
Cell#: 732-580-1736
Sent from Proton Mail Android
-------- Original Message -------- On 7/21/24 6:50 AM, Nitro wrote: I wall mounted my VFD box, but located the remote pendant on a stalk mounted above the change gear cover.  In addition to the VFD control, I added a hall effect tachometer to it too.
The mount also doubles as a spindle indexing rig.
Mine is on my Logan 922, but I'm only tossing an idea out for consideration.
-- -George M.
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Re: Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?
Joe Pie is always a wealth of information. although sometimes I can’t keep up with him :-). ?If you are trying to turn a “standard” taper like JT33 or any of the MT series, I’ve set an item with the taper I want in my lathe (between centers) and adjusted the compound angle so a dial indicator on the compound stays in the same position as you move the compound forward. ?Once the compound is set you remove the setup piece and chuck whatever you like in the lathe, and machine an inner/outer taper in any material you like. ?I use the same process with the swivelling table of my tool and cutter grinder to clean up any surface damage, removing .001 or .002”. ?Cheers, ?al.
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On Jul 20, 2024, at 22:31, Rogan Creswick via < creswick@...> wrote:
I have a 10k (light 10), and I'd like to cut a few machine tapers (e.g. JT33) and I have a keyless chuck I'd like to repair after it's internal taper was messed up by a similarly bad arbor.
In any case, I want to cut accurate angles, and I do not have a taper attachment.
Tom Lipton has a great video series with a few options, but the best requires using a sine bar that's referencing a surface that's parallel with the compound travel, but the only possible surface on my compound is the machined T-slot for the tool post, and that's (at best) perpendicular (and I have doubts about how accurately it was made wrt the dovetails).
Tom's video is here:??
Does anyone here have suggestions for doing this? Some ideas:
(A) I could mount a parallel in a tool holder, indicate that to be parallel to the compound travel, *then* mount a sine bar to that reference and indicate the?sine bar.? That's more work than I'd really like to put in every time I do this, but at least it's non-destructive.
(B) I have a mill & surface grinder - I could probably machine a flat on the side of the compound that's parallel with the dovetails.? I don't recall how much material there is to remove there, though, and that would probably be on the "front" side, rather than the back (in order to avoid the gib screws), which would make it slightly more difficult to indicate.
(C) ??? Maybe there's a casting kit or something for a new compound that has a more functional design?
(D) I suppose I could fabricate a new compound, and re-use the screw, nut, and other hardware.
(E) Maybe I could place some pin holes in the top of the compound at key locations, then pull the toolpost and set a sine bar?+ parallel against those... The challenge here I think is ensuring that they are aligned properly, since they're on the opposite side of the casting from the feature I'd need to indicate on the mill (the dovetails?)
Anyway, I'd like to see how other folks have solved this.
Thanks! --Rogan
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Re: Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?
You're welcome. Until I saw that video it was always a challenge to set accurate angles, now it's so much easier. The precision you can achieve is mind boggling to me.
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Bill From Socal
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Re: Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?
Thanks! That looks like a great way to set an angle.
On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 6:50?AM William Nelson via <wnnelson= [email protected]> wrote: Watch this Joe Pie video. I've used this on my 10k a bunch of times. He explains how extremely accurate this technique can be.
?
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Bill From Socal
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Re: Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?
Watch this Joe Pie video. I've used this on my 10k a bunch of times. He explains how extremely accurate this technique can be.
?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1028&v=qwMX63_bPAA&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fduckduckgo.com%2F
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Bill From Socal
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I wall mounted my VFD box, but located the remote pendant on a stalk mounted above the change gear cover.  In addition to the VFD control, I added a hall effect tachometer to it too.
The mount also doubles as a spindle indexing rig.
Mine is on my Logan 922, but I'm only tossing an idea out for consideration.
|
Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?
I have a 10k (light 10), and I'd like to cut a few machine tapers (e.g. JT33) and I have a keyless chuck I'd like to repair after it's internal taper was messed up by a similarly bad arbor.
In any case, I want to cut accurate angles, and I do not have a taper attachment.
Tom Lipton has a great video series with a few options, but the best requires using a sine bar that's referencing a surface that's parallel with the compound travel, but the only possible surface on my compound is the machined T-slot for the tool post, and that's (at best) perpendicular (and I have doubts about how accurately it was made wrt the dovetails).
Tom's video is here:??
Does anyone here have suggestions for doing this? Some ideas:
(A) I could mount a parallel in a tool holder, indicate that to be parallel to the compound travel, *then* mount a sine bar to that reference and indicate the?sine bar.? That's more work than I'd really like to put in every time I do this, but at least it's non-destructive.
(B) I have a mill & surface grinder - I could probably machine a flat on the side of the compound that's parallel with the dovetails.? I don't recall how much material there is to remove there, though, and that would probably be on the "front" side, rather than the back (in order to avoid the gib screws), which would make it slightly more difficult to indicate.
(C) ??? Maybe there's a casting kit or something for a new compound that has a more functional design?
(D) I suppose I could fabricate a new compound, and re-use the screw, nut, and other hardware.
(E) Maybe I could place some pin holes in the top of the compound at key locations, then pull the toolpost and set a sine bar?+ parallel against those... The challenge here I think is ensuring that they are aligned properly, since they're on the opposite side of the casting from the feature I'd need to indicate on the mill (the dovetails?)
Anyway, I'd like to see how other folks have solved this.
Thanks! --Rogan
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I put mine on the wall above the lathe With an outlet that can be used by the lathe, milling machine, or table saw, depending on what I'm doing.
Gary On Sat, Jul 20, 2024 at 5:39?PM George Meinschein via <gmeinschein= [email protected]> wrote:
Esteemed group members,
Any suggestions where to put the 3hp VFD for my 14.5" tool room lathe?? I'm thinking that attaching it to the wall behind the lathe might be the cleanest install for me instead of figuring out where to mount it on the lathe. Any thoughts?? Pros or cons as to where it should be.? 220V outlet is surface mounted on the wall near the tailstock end of the lathe. Current plan is to mount the VFD on the wall and near the outlet, run armored cable to the lathe and transition to rigid conduit across the back of the lathe to the junction box where the motor wiring is located.? Alternatively, I could mount the VFD to the wall near the headstock end and run surface wiring over to the outlet.
Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.
Firearm and Ballistics Engineering LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728
gmeinschein@...
Cell#: 732-580-1736
Sent from Proton Mail Android
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-George M.
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I have mine installed on the wall behind the headstock. ?It never gets hit with any swarf. ?I do have it remote controlled, so I don’t have to reach over the machine. ?A picture is worth a 1000 words.
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George,?
Never install controls behind any equipment. Especially a VFD where you have to reach over the lathe to turn it on and off, and to change speed. Also, remember that those VFDs have tiny display screens, and installing it far away will require you to use binoculars
to read the settings ?
Look at the commercial lathes. They all install the DRO/VFD controls on a stand/post either above the headstock, or near the tailstock.?
I am a little partial to a high headstock location, but it is your lathe and install where it is most convenient for you.?
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Esteemed group members,
Any suggestions where to put the 3hp VFD for my 14.5" tool room lathe?? I'm thinking that attaching it to the wall behind the lathe might be the cleanest install for me instead of figuring out where to mount it on the lathe. Any thoughts?? Pros or cons as to
where it should be.? 220V outlet is surface mounted on the wall near the tailstock end of the lathe. Current plan is to mount the VFD on the wall and near the outlet, run armored cable to the lathe and transition to rigid conduit across the back of the lathe
to the junction box where the motor wiring is located.? Alternatively, I could mount the VFD to the wall near the headstock end and run surface wiring over to the outlet.
Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.
Firearm and Ballistics Engineering LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728
gmeinschein@...
Cell#: 732-580-1736
Sent from Proton Mail Android
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-George M.
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Ray
Jim_B
James Rice
Nitro