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A couple for the lathe, very common sized sf endmill, like 3/8" & 1/2", and you can tackle about anything small without having to tear down a setup on your mill. A t-slotted table and an angle plate,

??? ??? Could you put a cutoff wheel in your surface grinder & work it that way ? ??? ??? animal

I'm not good enough with an angle grinder to manage a 0.190" cut, but I can get close with my bandsaw (aside from cutting the back; I can kerf a lot of it out, then clean up with the southbend

Another thought is to use a angle grinder to rough out the shape. With a cutoff wheel & grinding wheel, you can rough it out quickly. Then finish it on the lathe or mill. Is there and way you could

I don't know what the original part is made of -- maybe an aluminum casting? I think more likely some pot metal, though. It is not magnetic, so it's not cast iron / steel, and it will just crumble in

That is a good idea! Remove as much material as possible, and take all the load off the end mill you can.? Bill in OKC William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.) Aphorisms to live by:Good judgement comes

Do you have an end mill holder that will fit the spindle of your lathe? If so, use that! If not you could make or buy one relatively cheaply. I've got one that has a MT3 taper, got it for my HF 7x10

??? ??? Wow , I had no idea that you could get large dials on a C , was that a option ? ??? ??? animal

You could consider drilling out the bulk of the material. Either a series of holes across the width of the slot, or one or two holes in the side down the length of it.

If you are referring to my 9C, both dials are large but the compound dial, original, is graduated in two-thousandths, so one division equals diameter removed. The newer, cross feed dial is graduated

Animal, the steel in those old irons are superior to the steel in modern ones. Under magnification, the old irons look like a mountain range, but they will make shavings you can read through. The

Very nice account Jim. I have had a similar exoerience - buying special tool, waiting etc. and finaly making my own 'mock-up' that worked just fine. Any way, Jim I really enjoyed that and your other

So it is cast iron. Have you thought about making the larger flat section, all the way across the bottom, out of a single piece of steel, perhaps cutting out the half round with a metal hole saw. Then

What is the broken piece made of?? If cast iron, welding might not be feasible. If steel, it could be welded up enough to reuse to make a new piece. You might be able to weld it back together but I

Oh, I'm only planning on milling the little slot with this setup -- the big step I'll definitely cut out with a bandsaw, and the more intricate cutaways / curved bits are not necessary features, I

??? ??? I'm envious of the large dials you have . I managed to find a SB owner that was passing forward some of the help he had gotten from other SB owners & he sold me a large crossfeed dial

It will probably take a lot of time to mill this and put quite a bit of stress on the lathe. That is a lot of material to remove. I would suggest you do some layout and either bandsaw or hacksaw away

??? ??? Except for a thumb plane all my planes are 75+ years old . I'd probably fight using some of my " jointing plane's " these days . ??? ??? animal

I need to cut a 0.190" wide slot, 0.300" deep in a ~1.75" wide chunk of steel, and it's a part for my milling machine, so I can't do it on the mill. I don't think the tolerances are particularly

I bought this 9C lathe about 1970, Its only tool holder was the South Bend 8 In 1, I think it was called. Miserable thing to work with as it sat (and rocked) on two dog point set screws. I needed a