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Re: Milling on the lathe w/out a milling attachment (rate my setup)


 

A couple for the lathe, very common sized sf endmill, like 3/8" & 1/2", and you can tackle about anything small without having to tear down a setup on your mill. A t-slotted table and an angle plate, to make setups on the lathe easier... Working on doing that for all my lathes. Even the Unimats. ;) They can actually be set up as a milling machine, for tiny work, so I made a couple of milling tables. One is t-slotted, one has holes that will get tapped M6x1 as soon as I can get done messing with the house and cars.?

Everything here but the Atlas lathe, a large and small drill press, and the air compressor, are awaiting at least a bit of restoration work. There's an Atlas MF horizontal mill that needs the switch installed so I can see what else it needs, an HF mini-mill that was working when the guy sold it to me, but needed at least some adjustments, and there's a Lewis Shaper, and a Craftsman bandsaw that just need motors installed. Everything else needs from more to a lot more work. The Heavy 10L is most in need of work, as it spent five years in a very leaky barn. I got maybe a third of the way into getting the rust off the attachments and saddle, compound and such, and then got stopped cold for quite a while. I could have the two Unimats running in a week or so. Got all the parts, bearings and belts needed, but I'm trying to convert them to run off 24vdc motors. Everything is here, and just needs assembled. Don't even have deskspace enough to do them.?

This next couple of weeks I'm going to work on cars and the shop. Shop first, as much as possible, though my wife's wheelchair lift crapped out this afternoon as we were about to leave for her PT appointment. I had to pull it out of the van to get us there. Realized today that it's bee sitting nearly 20 years. I've found lube in several of the machine tools that was nearly or way past becoming varnish. May be able to ressurect the gear motors, or may have to replace them. Hope to find out tomorrow.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 08:44:15 PM CST, Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:


I don't know what the original part is made of -- maybe an aluminum casting? I think more likely some pot metal, though. It is not magnetic, so it's not cast iron / steel, and it will just crumble in your fingers.

I thought this bit of scrap I'm using was cast iron, based on the chip formation, but it doesn't rust as quickly as cast iron, and I noticed a scribe mark that looks like A2 on one face, so maybe it's that.? In any case, that's what I'm using -- it's a shifting shoe to move the reversing pinion into place.? It'll be living it a bath of gear oil or grease (different discussion, that), and for the hours I'll put on this machine I'm sure it'll be just fine.

All of my endmill holders are for the mill, they're R8 taper -- I hadn't considered getting any for the lathe, but that's an idea I'll have to consider.? I'd rather not for just this job, but if I need to do more work like this that'd certainly be worth it.? Most of the time I have?a bridgeport clone (made by JET) at hand, so this isn't a problem :).

--Rogan


On Tue, Feb 28, 2023 at 6:34 PM Bill in OKC too via <wmrmeyers=[email protected]> wrote:
That is a good idea! Remove as much material as possible, and take all the load off the end mill you can.?

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better



On Tuesday, February 28, 2023 at 08:03:40 PM CST, James Bishop <bishopaj@...> wrote:


You could consider drilling out the bulk of the material. Either a series of holes across the width of the slot, or one or two holes in the side down the length of it.?

On Tue, Feb 28, 2023, 3:53 PM Rogan Creswick <creswick@...> wrote:
I need to cut a 0.190" wide slot, 0.300" deep in a ~1.75" wide chunk of steel, and it's a part for my milling machine, so I can't do it on the mill.

I don't think the tolerances?are particularly tight, but I'd like it to be as close as I can reasonably get it to the part I'm replacing.

Anyway, this is the setup I'm thinking of using -- setting the height relative to the spindle?with either adjustable parallels, gauge blocks, machinist screws, or some other form of shims / spacers.

I'm interested in hearing other suggestions -- I may just use some HSS toolbits as guides and do it with a file (likely pre-cutting some kerfs with a bandsaw).? My test cuts last night were pretty slow (0.015" DOC, top speed on the lathe, and feeding by hand at about 0.5" per minute), I don't think I can run the spindle fast enough for the 3/16" endmill I'd need to use, but maybe I can rough it out with files / saws and do the finish cuts this way.

Maybe I should be doing a series of plunge cuts, though? How much longitudinal force can I put on an endmill in a 4-jaw?

Here's a link to a video that may better show the setup:?

Thanks!
--Rogan

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