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oil viscosity

R. Allen
 

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?

I'm glad someone posted a chart on this it doesn't tell the complete story but it is good enough for a reference

According to the standard handbook of mechanical engineering the SAE viscosity rating with the W is based on SUS standard. Others without the W is not. The viscosity viscosity is based on to temperatures 0 degrees Fahrenheit and 210 degrees Fahrenheit. a maximum and minimum viscosity for each temperature is used. It is a very loosely applied standard which may include a wide range of viscosity. A chart given in the book shows SAE rated oils vs. the SUS standard. At approximately 120 degrees SAE oils x10 follow the same viscosity as the SUS rating. In another section of the book describes converting SAE rated as follows ( W x 10 ) it is only a rough conversion not intended to calculate actual viscosity the actual viscosity can only be determined by a testing facility

?

Rick


another new member

 

Hi all,
My name is Chris and I'm a 47 y/o
Captain/engineer/just-about-anything-else to do with things
seagoing. I started working with lathes in high school too many
years ago. My stable includes a 1952 13" SB with a 6' bed, a
Burke Millrite, a 20" Clausing v/s drill press and a 14" Walker
Turner band saw, as well as a 35 year collection of mechanics
and woodworking tools. I've been Captain on square riggers,
schooners and steam yachts and am now involved as engineer
in a damn the cost restoration of a 93' motor yacht for an owner
who wants only the best. Talk about a dream job! Anyway, that's
how I can combine work (boats) and hobby (machinery and
more boats).
Cheers,Chris


Re: Intro

 

Carl, do you pay by the minute for internet time? I use a free
access server (funcow.com or netzero.com). Go to the website for
egroups (and/or yahoo groups) and sign in. Once you are in, go to
southbendlathe, where you will have a vertical toolbar at the left
hand side of your screen. Click on "Messages" to read other people's
posts (and yours too) all the way back to #1. At the top of each
message is a toolbar which gives you the option to reply to that
message (same string). If you want to start something new, click
on "Post" on the left hand side of your screen instead.

Hope this helps, I'm a rookie with computers too. This works for me.

Dave D'Albertanson

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Jeanie/Carl" <youngcj@i...> wrote:
First, since I am new at this one, is there an easier way to post a
message without emailing it in, if so, please post.


Oil Viscosity Chart

 

I have added a nice Oil Viscosity Chart to the File database.
It converts Saybolt units (SUS @100) to Industrial Oils and Motor
oils.

This confirms the last postings regarding the 10/20/30W nondetergent
oils equaling the Southbend lathe requirments.


Re: New member

Paul R. Hvidston
 

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Karl,
?
Welcome, and looking forward to some pictures of your SB and stuff you made with it (and for it???). I'd like to hear what you do to get around a worn bed.
?
This goes for everyone in the group: please feel free to share things you do to get around the peculiarities of SB lathes, and do more with yours. I'm in the learning mode, so all of this is appreciated.
?
Cheers!
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA


Re: lubrication

 

Just how much does SB charge for there oils?

--- In southbendlathe@y..., jsf1@c... wrote:
I have been buying my A, B and C lubrication oil directly from South
Bend. I feel the SB company has been helpful to me in identifying
my
lathe's origins and in stocking some of the parts I had to buy for
it, so I (naively?) would like to reward them.

Yes, their prices for the lube oils and everything else are higher
than elsewhere, but my opinion is that it behooves an amateur SB
owner (1935 9" Workshop) like me to make the company feel it is good
business for them to cater to us to a small extent. Many machinery
companies, McMaster-Carr (who sell cheaper oil) for one, do not
really like to do business with amateurs.

My most wishful thought is that be if SB gets enough encouragement
(read business) from people like us they'll bring back the 9" at a
reasonable price, though I'm not holding my breath.

Jay Friedman
Decatur, GA


Re: New member

 

Karl,

I am looking for a nice simple steam engine to build , but I wantit to
look flashy. Do you have or know of some simple but sharp looking
single piston engines?

Jim


--- In southbendlathe@y..., hsmth656@c... wrote:
Would like to say hello to the members of this group and say how
great it is to have a group dedicated just to South Bend lathes. I
especially want to thank whoever posted rec.crafts.metalworking
about
this group a few days ago. Looking forward to all the good info you
all are posting.

I have a 1941 9x48 that I acquired about a year ago. It has a badly
worn bed but the rest is prety good. Before this I had a Grizzly
9x24 which although a fairly good machine does not compare to a
South
Bend. I sold it for half what I paid but making the switch was
worth
every cent. I love the look, the feel of the South Bend lathes.
Nothing else compares. I am now looking for a 13" South Bend. I
figure finding one in good condition will take any where from 2 to 4
years as I live in Oregon and there is not a lot of manufacturing
done here and good used equipment is hard to find. My area of
interest is Model Engineering and I am currently into model
stationary steam engines. I am also interested in foundary work and
hope to set up a small furnace this summer. I belong to a the Mid
Valley Model Engineers located in the Willamett Valley in Oregon.
We
have about thirty members and meet once a month at various members
shops. We have one member, Marlin Hadley who is 91 and still making
chips. He has built almost 100 different steam engine models. If
you get to PRIME in Eugene Oregon in September you will probably see
him there.

I will take some photos and shop and post them later. Thanks again
for this group.

Karl Smith


New member

 

Would like to say hello to the members of this group and say how
great it is to have a group dedicated just to South Bend lathes. I
especially want to thank whoever posted rec.crafts.metalworking about
this group a few days ago. Looking forward to all the good info you
all are posting.

I have a 1941 9x48 that I acquired about a year ago. It has a badly
worn bed but the rest is prety good. Before this I had a Grizzly
9x24 which although a fairly good machine does not compare to a South
Bend. I sold it for half what I paid but making the switch was worth
every cent. I love the look, the feel of the South Bend lathes.
Nothing else compares. I am now looking for a 13" South Bend. I
figure finding one in good condition will take any where from 2 to 4
years as I live in Oregon and there is not a lot of manufacturing
done here and good used equipment is hard to find. My area of
interest is Model Engineering and I am currently into model
stationary steam engines. I am also interested in foundary work and
hope to set up a small furnace this summer. I belong to a the Mid
Valley Model Engineers located in the Willamett Valley in Oregon. We
have about thirty members and meet once a month at various members
shops. We have one member, Marlin Hadley who is 91 and still making
chips. He has built almost 100 different steam engine models. If
you get to PRIME in Eugene Oregon in September you will probably see
him there.

I will take some photos and shop and post them later. Thanks again
for this group.

Karl Smith


Re: ABout me Bakersfield CA.

Paul R. Hvidston
 

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Hey Brett,
?
I checked out your phono restoration page. Very nice. That old Edison is beautiful. I do the occasional old radio restoration. It's kind of hard to put one of the old vacuum tubes on the lathe and fix it up ;-) but I do make bushings, shafts and knob inserts on the lathe. Then there's the cabinet work in the wood shop. There's something about the way things used to be built.
?
Cheers!
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA


Re: lubrication

Paul R. Hvidston
 

开云体育

No, not naivete. I suppose at the least, it lets them know we're out here, and that we are not completely insignificant. Who knows. There might be SBL employees who?follow some of the Internet interest groups. Probably not this one -- not yet.
?
Cheers!
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA

>> I feel the SB company has been helpful to me in identifying my
lathe's origins and in stocking some of the parts I had to buy for
it, so I (naively?) would like to reward them.


Re: lubrication

 

I have been buying my A, B and C lubrication oil directly from South
Bend. I feel the SB company has been helpful to me in identifying my
lathe's origins and in stocking some of the parts I had to buy for
it, so I (naively?) would like to reward them.

Yes, their prices for the lube oils and everything else are higher
than elsewhere, but my opinion is that it behooves an amateur SB
owner (1935 9" Workshop) like me to make the company feel it is good
business for them to cater to us to a small extent. Many machinery
companies, McMaster-Carr (who sell cheaper oil) for one, do not
really like to do business with amateurs.

My most wishful thought is that be if SB gets enough encouragement
(read business) from people like us they'll bring back the 9" at a
reasonable price, though I'm not holding my breath.

Jay Friedman
Decatur, GA


lubrication

R. Allen
 

开云体育

?
?
the reference to?oil viscosity came from the modern refrigeration and air conditioning manual.? In the electric motor selection describes using S.A. E. 20 or S.A. E. 30 ( 200 to 300 viscosity ) this book could be wrong of course the WebSite to refer to could also be wrong.? I will look this upin my engineering book and get back to you.
?
Rick
?
?
?
From:??"Paul R. Hvidston" <>
Date:? Thu?Feb?1,?2001?4:49am
Subject:? Re: [southbendlathe] lubrication

You can also use non-detergent motor oil as a substitute a 10W oil is the same as 100 viscosity the. 50W is the same as 500 viscosity. don't know if this conversion was mention before.

From the McMaster-Carr website, you get the following equivalents:
?
SAE 5W == 100 SUS??? (SB Type A)
SAE 10? == 215 SUS??? (SB Type B)
SAE 20 == 315 SUS??? (SB Type C)
?
Could you be off by a factor of about 2?
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA


ABout me Bakersfield CA.

 

Well here? is my info on me?? I am Brett Hurt? age 47?? work for? county Propation department for the last 15 years and hope to retire from the salt mines in 7 years.?? I learned about machine work in the Army when I was a welder there. And thought man this is neat. So after 5 years in the green machine I went to the JC. and learned to be a michinest. Did that? some what but moved on to probation better money.?? About 10 years ago I got entersted in phonographs? but found out that I like to restore them. SO I have a back ground in welding and machine work. I would fix a few make some money buy a tool. So in time, I was over my head and need some machine work found a very nice old guy? with lots of stuff to do my machine work. Then the big ? mark came up (Brett) go get a lathe you neeeeeeeeeeeeed one.? I ask the nice old guy if he knew of any. And sure as that he said, he had a? friend that had a South Bend for sale. I bought him lunch and came home with the 1940? South Bend? got for $500.00 out the door and he had rebuilt it. Been very happy ever since. So on Sundays when I do most of my resto's I get to play with it. I now want a 13 in. Have a enco mill-drill and all the other stuff you need.? If you would like to look at my web site go there ?? Ho I almost for got I have a very sweet wife who lets play in the shop. Some times she will say Brett when did you get this. and I will say? your dad gave it to me.? Ya sure. But I neeeeeeeeeeeeeded it!???


Intro

Jeanie/Carl
 

开云体育

First, since I am new at this one, is there an easier way to post a message without emailing it?in, if so, please post.
?
I live in Southeast Texas, I am 50, was introduced to machining back in the 60's at the high school shop.? Marine Corps for a short, worked for one of Texaco's largest refinery's for 13 yrs, laid off in '84 (some of you older ones will remember the down turn in the oil industry), and have been working since '86 for the TX Army National Guard, will soon retire from that - only to find another job (unfortunately retirement pay isn't all that great) no complaints, kept a roof over my head, and most of the time a full belly.
?
Can't rightly remember when I got my little 9"SB, not a machinist by trade, but will be my next career, though, probably until the end.? Really enjoy the machining, also, do wood working as well.
?
Unfortunately, this area is the "oil country" and most surplus/used machinery is large, unlike the common smaller ones (atlas/SB) that can be found up North (envy).
?
Finding the 9" was a stroke of luck, it was an estate sale, a bench model, and it was all in pieces.? Over time have added a double pedestal cabinet, made wood draws for the larger pedestal, just never got around to the other, yet.? The 9" has been under constant refurbishing since I got it.? Believe in keeping it up, and since it is of the type that has non-harden ways, it'll wear fast.? It's nice to have a lathe at home for odd jobs.?
?
Enough.? It is nice to have a group of SB enthusiast.
?
Carl


lubrication

Melvin E. Allen
 

开云体育

I've been using 9C for many years and really?had no idea what oil?I should?really be using. The only information I found was to use a 10W machine oil and that's what I've been used.

The lubrication chart that was recently posted was a big help. Now I know what I should be used.

And that got me thinking.

Having been automotive air conditioning mechanic for many years I knew the automotive A/C oil is a 500 viscosity. Further research tells me the standard viscosity used in home and commercial air conditioning systems is 150 to 300 viscosity. All of these oils are highly refined low wax content non-detergent and hold their viscosity through a wide range of temperatures. They can be purchased in small quantities 1 gallon or less at any refrigeration supplier or automotive parts store (R12/134A) only.

Standard oils for the R12, R22, are high quality machine oil .? They are nontoxic and completely safe to use. The oils that I have use have little or no smell a plus?for anyone that has allergies to strong smells like me.

?

Warning do not using the (PAG) oil use for the 134A refrigerants systems. This oil is highly toxic and will take the paint off of any surface it comes in contact with. Do not using it.

Castrol Retro A/C oil used for the? 134A and R12 automotive air conditioning systems is a 500 viscosity oil and is considered safe to use.

Also some air compressor oils are 100 viscosity non-detergent and should be suitable to use.

These oils should be a suitable replacement for the Southbend oils if you can't find the original oils anywhere else.

You can also use non-detergent motor oil as a substitute a 10W oil is the same as 100 viscosity the. 50W is the same as 500 viscosity. don't know if this conversion was mention before.

Do not using multigrade oils or standard motor oils that have detergent in them.

I hope this helps.

Rick


Re: lubrication

Paul R. Hvidston
 

开云体育

You can also use non-detergent motor oil as a substitute a 10W oil is the same as 100 viscosity the. 50W is the same as 500 viscosity. don't know if this conversion was mention before.

From the McMaster-Carr website, you get the following equivalents:
?
SAE 5W == 100 SUS??? (SB Type A)
SAE 10? == 215 SUS??? (SB Type B)
SAE 20 == 315 SUS??? (SB Type C)
?
Could you be off by a factor of about 2?
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA


Introductions

Paul R. Hvidston
 

Hello all. I'm a 43 y/o Southern California Consulting Engineer in the
Internet/desktop/real-time software development area. I'm currently
developing wireless networking for PDAs and notebooks.

On to the fun stuff. Besides electronics, ham radio and music, I've been
doing fine woodworking for over 20 years, wood turning for about 8. I've
added metal working the last couple of years. It started with a Grizzly
7x10, then I picked up a couple of Taigs at an estate sale (an old old Micro
Lathe and a newer Micro Lathe II).

I acquired my dream lathe - a 1941 9x36 SB model A this last December. I
wish I could say that I plan on using the lathe for work, but I just love
learning about old tools and the SB certainly qualifies. The dream started
many years ago with a copy of "How to run a lathe" and several editions of
the Henry Ford Trade School Shop Manual. I love old books too! My wife's an
antique dealer so I get lots of old machining books.

Back to the SB. Mine originally had a roller-bearing headstock w/o
back-gear, but I just installed a standard headstock so I could get slower
speeds with torque. I've got a lot of cleaning, painting and tweaking to do,
but I'm having fun. I put together a quick web page for the lathe and I plan
to formalize it as I get more work done on the lathe.



I've got deadlines so that's all for now. Keep the dialog and sharing going!

Paul R. Hvidston
ACKSYS Engineering
Upland, CA
p.hvidston@...


Re: Joining the list

 

DO NOT TRY TO BEND IT COLD!!!!
The compound rest handle on my lathe had been broken for as long as I
can remember. (My father took possession when I was 6) The edges had
been rounded off so as not to cut your fingers, but the break still
shows clean 20-30 (40?) years after it was broken.

A new handle was one of the first projects I tackled after she was
put back together after painting.

(Ball ends are a pain)

Dave D'Albertanson




--- In southbendlathe@y..., Larry Buerer <lbuerer@t...> wrote:

Hi

I'm joining the list. I have a 9" Model A South Bend lathe.
According to the
invoice I have in my hand it was purchased from the Carey Machinery
Supply
Co. Baltimore, MD on 1/3/47. I purchased it from the original owned
a few
years ago in Eureka, CA so it traveled a bit. It is a bench top
model about
30" between centers. Length 4 according to the tag on the gearbox.
It seems
to be in excellent condition, only a few aluminum chips here and
there and a
bit of surface rust (only enough to color a few things brown).

The handle on the cross slide is bent, not the screw, the handle.
Is it soft
enough to bend back cold or should I heat it to bend it.

Just for fun, it cost $283 new and the Jacobs chuck with it cost
$15.30. The
4-jaw chuck was $34.15.

Have a great day
Larry Buerer


Re: A bit about your Group Moderator

Paul R. Hvidston
 

开云体育

Or someone to buy our cast-offs ;-)
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA

----- Original Message -----
Dee we would never kick a SB wantabee off of here. We need someone to
tease. LOL


Re: A bit about your Group Moderator

 

Dee we would never kick a SB wantabee off of here. We need someone to
tease. LOL

Thanks for your story, keep in touch.
Jim


--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Dee Schuyler" <dee.schuyler@g...> wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: jwtaylor61@h...
To: southbendlathe@y...
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] A bit about your Group Moderator




Well Jim, My Name is Dee Schuyler
I am 63 years old, and have been a hobby woodworker all my life.
I just a year or two ago got into metal working, and I really
enjoy
it. I restore Antique John Deere tractors and really got into
metal
working to help with the parts for the tractors. Now I am afraid
to tell
you that I do not own a South Bend, But I will one day! I played
with my first South Bend in the early fiftys in High School, then
while in the US Navy aboard a Destroyer my bunk was right next to the
Machine Shop and many many nights I was put to sleep to the sound of
that old South Bend, That was many years ago.
More recently when I decided to try my hand at metalworking I had
a friend with a 10"x54 Atlas I bought it and it is a fine little lathe
but i needed for tractor parts a little bigger machine. While
searching for a good SouthBend I found a real nice Logan that I could
not pass up.
However I am still thinking about South Bend's and if I should
come across, Well who knows!
Now if you wish to kick me off? Well so be it.
Till then enjoying your list,
Dee




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