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Re: FS: Two Lathe Chucks 1-7/8 x 8tpi - early 10L or 13"

 

In regards to your threading dial -- I made one from a 3d print pattern I found (on thingverse, I think. Mine was for a 10k, you'd want to check to get the correct version for your lathe).? I had a friend print it for me, since I don't have a 3d printer yet, and didn't want to pay the?~$30 to get a print from folks on ebay.? You could do that, or make an order from a place like shapeways.

I turned & stamped / engraved a brass disk for the actual dial part, and a bit of sanding / painting later, and it looks the part and works great!? It also wasn't $300+ which seemed to be the asking price for an actual metal one.

Photos attached.

--Rogan

On Sun, Aug 11, 2024 at 9:32?AM Stan via <sfaullin=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Two lathe chucks were included with my recent lathe purchase that don't actually fit my (1968) 10L.?
?
They are both 1-7/8 x 8tpi.? From my limited research, it appears that this is an uncommon size used on early SB 10L and 13" lathes.??
?
Both chucks are by DE Whiton, and neither has a chuck key.? They need a good cleaning, but nothing appears broken on either.??
?
5" 3 jaw - the 3 jaw requires a square socket, which is uncommon in my experience (see picture).? $125, includes flat rate priority shipping to the lower 48.??
?
The 4 jaw is a 6".? $125, includes flat rate priority mail shipping to the lower 48.
?
Message me for higher resolution pictures.? If my price seems out of range, feel free to email offers or offer constructive feedback.? I need a 10L thread dial, so a trade could be possible.? If you live in Texas, then a local pickup in Central or North Texas is also possible.??
?
?
?
?
?

PXL_20221017_033245302.jpg
PXL_20220814_161235288.jpg
PXL_20220917_215638185.jpg

FS: 10" 4 jaw Chuck -2-1/4 x 8tpi

 
Edited

Update on 8-13-24: SOLD
?
This was included in a recent lathe purchase, but is too large for my 10L.? It would probably be a good fit for a SB 13", which I think is also 2-1/4 x 8tpi.??
?
No marking except for Kalamazoo.? It looks like it's a Buck casting from the backside, but again, no Mfg marking that I found with limited cleaning.? No chuck key.??
?
Email me for high resolution pictures.? $175 + shipping, but let me know if that seems out of range.? Hopefully, I can squeeze it into a priority mail flat rate box for shipping.
?
FS: Two Lathe Chucks 1-7/8 x 8tpi - early 10L or 13"

 

Two lathe chucks were included with my recent lathe purchase that don't actually fit my (1968) 10L.?
?
They are both 1-7/8 x 8tpi.? From my limited research, it appears that this is an uncommon size used on early SB 10L and 13" lathes.??
?
Both chucks are by DE Whiton, and neither has a chuck key.? They need a good cleaning, but nothing appears broken on either.??
?
5" 3 jaw - the 3 jaw requires a square socket, which is uncommon in my experience (see picture).? $125, includes flat rate priority shipping to the lower 48.??
?
The 4 jaw is a 6".? $125, includes flat rate priority mail shipping to the lower 48.
?
Message me for higher resolution pictures.? If my price seems out of range, feel free to email offers or offer constructive feedback.? I need a 10L thread dial, so a trade could be possible.? If you live in Texas, then a local pickup in Central or North Texas is also possible.??
?
?
?
?
?
this is pretty darn cool

 

Re: Wiring a Korean 10K switch

 

Hi There,
?
I can see that I am late to the party.? I have a wiring
diagram for a Furnas drum switch that has the same
jumper configuration.? I'll pass it along for your con-
venience.
?
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
?

Furnas_115-3.jpg

Re: Wiring a Korean 10K switch

 

Thanks for all of your help I have the motor up and running as a result. I did notice that the 1425 rpm motor is running close to the 1725 rpm original. I’ll keep an eye out for any smoke or overheating but at this point it seems fine. I’ll probably pick up another motor to keep around just in case. At least I will have no problem rewiring it. Thanks again for your help.?
Re: Wiring a Korean 10K switch

 



On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:

one more pic. and disclaimer?Inline image
I was wondering if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.

Re: Wiring a Korean 10K switch

 

Inline image
Inline image
Inline image


On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:


I was wondering if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.

Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,

 

Inline image

On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 03:13:45 PM CDT, wmrmeyers@... <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:


50hz motor should run fine on 60hz, or vice versa. Do not try running a 400hz motor on 60hz, though. You WILL let the magic smoke out. Done it.

I wouldn't try running it full time under full load (pump or HVAC), but running a lathe should be OK.

Spent 3 years in Turkey, and 4 in Germany, running lots of stuff on 50hz power. Things that depend on the? line voltage frequency for timing will be off, like clocks. Vacuums, saws, and grinder, etc., are just fine.

Bill in OKC?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)?

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.




On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 02:46:17 PM CDT, Ray via groups.io <rbruss9644@...> wrote:


?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?

On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:


I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.

Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,

Matt
 


Inside the wiring cover on the end of the motor you will find another diagram for wiring the motor.? ?Match that up to your switch diagrams and you'll be good to go!

On Tue, Aug 6, 2024 at 2:56 PM, Jim_B
<jim@...> wrote:
Should run ok but speed will increase 20%.?

Jim B,

On Aug 6, 2024, at 3:46?PM, Ray <rbruss9644@...> wrote:

?
?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?

On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:


I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.
<IMG_1818.jpeg>
<IMG_1815.jpeg>
<IMG_1816.jpeg>
<IMG_1817.jpeg>
<IMG_1817.jpeg>
<IMG_1816.jpeg>
<IMG_1815.jpeg>
<IMG_1818.jpeg>

--
Jim B

Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,

 

50hz motor should run fine on 60hz, or vice versa. Do not try running a 400hz motor on 60hz, though. You WILL let the magic smoke out. Done it.

I wouldn't try running it full time under full load (pump or HVAC), but running a lathe should be OK.

Spent 3 years in Turkey, and 4 in Germany, running lots of stuff on 50hz power. Things that depend on the? line voltage frequency for timing will be off, like clocks. Vacuums, saws, and grinder, etc., are just fine.

Bill in OKC?

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)?

Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.




On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 02:46:17 PM CDT, Ray via groups.io <rbruss9644@...> wrote:


?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?

On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:


I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.

Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,

 

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Should run ok but speed will increase 20%.?

Jim B,

On Aug 6, 2024, at 3:46?PM, Ray <rbruss9644@...> wrote:

?
?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?

On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:


I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.
<IMG_1818.jpeg>
<IMG_1815.jpeg>
<IMG_1816.jpeg>
<IMG_1817.jpeg>
<IMG_1817.jpeg>
<IMG_1816.jpeg>
<IMG_1815.jpeg>
<IMG_1818.jpeg>

--
Jim B
Re: ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,

 

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Yes



Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S20 FE 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Ray <rbruss9644@...>
Date: 8/6/24 13:46 (GMT-07:00)
To: southbendlathe@groups.io
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] ' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,

?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?

On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:


I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.

' 50 cycle (herz )motor ,most ,

 

?all power supplied in the U.S. is 60 cycle ?? ?

On Tuesday, August 6, 2024 at 12:28:15 PM CDT, drinkr55 via groups.io <drinkr@...> wrote:


I was wonderind by g if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.

Wiring a Korean 10K switch

 

I was wondering if anyone has advice on wiring a new motor to my existing switch. I’ll include some photos.

Re: VFD location

 

I installed the VFD for my South Bend 16 on the back side of my drive pedestal where the original owner had a disconnect switch mounted. Since the cast?iron mount for the Cutler-Hammer F/R drum switch was broken, I cut the damaged portion off and fabricated?an adapter and mount for my 22mm 5 unit pushbutton control station incorporating Start/E-Stop/Jog/F-R switch/Speed pot control devices. This is the same setup I used on my Wells-Index 55 mill and my South Bend?9A.? The inverter on the 9A was mounted on the backside of the motor cabinet while the inverter for the Wells-Index was mounted on the side of the column where some of the original mechanical table drive components were located.? The mill had been converted to a normal table system using the same motor drives used for Bridgeports.

James

On Wed, Jul 24, 2024 at 9:47?PM George Meinschein via <gmeinschein=protonmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Thank you to everyone that responded!? I think I've settled on VFD attached to the wall and remote control on the stalk where the original Cutler-Hammer fwd/off/rev drum switch is currently mounted. I like the look of the original drum switch, so I might retain the outward appearance and mod the inner workings to match the control circuitry needed for the VFD.? Probably should add a big red stop button somewhere handy because centering the drum switch to the stop position might prove challenging once things go sideways.

That brings me to a side note. I put a 1hp VFD on my Bridgeport a little while ago.? That new VFD cost me just over $200.? I checked prices on the Cutler-Hammer drum switch that I took off the Bridgeport and about fell over!? Sold the old used drum switch on ebay for $200!? A self-supporting hobby! Life is good!

Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.
Firearm and Ballistics Engineering LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728
gmeinschein@...
Cell#: 732-580-1736

Sent from Proton Mail Android
Re: VFD location

 

Thank you to everyone that responded!? I think I've settled on VFD attached to the wall and remote control on the stalk where the original Cutler-Hammer fwd/off/rev drum switch is currently mounted. I like the look of the original drum switch, so I might retain the outward appearance and mod the inner workings to match the control circuitry needed for the VFD.? Probably should add a big red stop button somewhere handy because centering the drum switch to the stop position might prove challenging once things go sideways.

That brings me to a side note. I put a 1hp VFD on my Bridgeport a little while ago.? That new VFD cost me just over $200.? I checked prices on the Cutler-Hammer drum switch that I took off the Bridgeport and about fell over!? Sold the old used drum switch on ebay for $200!? A self-supporting hobby! Life is good!

Thanks,
George H. Meinschein, P.E.
Firearm and Ballistics Engineering LLC
150 Brittany Drive
Freehold, NJ 07728
gmeinschein@...
Cell#: 732-580-1736

Sent from Proton Mail Android



-------- Original Message --------
On 7/21/24 6:50 AM, Nitro wrote:
I wall mounted my VFD box, but located the remote pendant on a stalk mounted above the change gear cover.
In addition to the VFD control, I added a hall effect tachometer to it too.
The mount also doubles as a spindle indexing rig.
Mine is on my Logan 922, but I'm only tossing an idea out for consideration.

--
-George M.
Re: Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?

 

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Joe Pie is always a wealth of information. although sometimes I can’t keep up with him :-). ?If you are trying to turn a “standard” taper like JT33 or any of the MT series, I’ve set an item with the taper I want in my lathe (between centers) and adjusted the compound angle so a dial indicator on the compound stays in the same position as you move the compound forward. ?Once the compound is set you remove the setup piece and chuck whatever you like in the lathe, and machine an inner/outer taper in any material you like. ?I use the same process with the swivelling table of my tool and cutter grinder to clean up any surface damage, removing .001 or .002”. ?Cheers, ?al.

On Jul 20, 2024, at 22:31, Rogan Creswick via <creswick@...> wrote:

I have a 10k (light 10), and I'd like to cut a few machine tapers (e.g. JT33) and I have a keyless chuck I'd like to repair after it's internal taper was messed up by a similarly bad arbor.

In any case, I want to cut accurate angles, and I do not have a taper attachment.

Tom Lipton has a great video series with a few options, but the best requires using a sine bar that's referencing a surface that's parallel with the compound travel, but the only possible surface on my compound is the machined T-slot for the tool post, and that's (at best) perpendicular (and I have doubts about how accurately it was made wrt the dovetails).

Tom's video is here:??

Does anyone here have suggestions for doing this? Some ideas:

(A) I could mount a parallel in a tool holder, indicate that to be parallel to the compound travel, *then* mount a sine bar to that reference and indicate the?sine bar.? That's more work than I'd really like to put in every time I do this, but at least it's non-destructive.

(B) I have a mill & surface grinder - I could probably machine a flat on the side of the compound that's parallel with the dovetails.? I don't recall how much material there is to remove there, though, and that would probably be on the "front" side, rather than the back (in order to avoid the gib screws), which would make it slightly more difficult to indicate.

(C) ??? Maybe there's a casting kit or something for a new compound that has a more functional design?

(D) I suppose I could fabricate a new compound, and re-use the screw, nut, and other hardware.

(E) Maybe I could place some pin holes in the top of the compound at key locations, then pull the toolpost and set a sine bar?+ parallel against those... The challenge here I think is ensuring that they are aligned properly, since they're on the opposite side of the casting from the feature I'd need to indicate on the mill (the dovetails?)

Anyway, I'd like to see how other folks have solved this.

Thanks!
--Rogan
Re: Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?

 

You're welcome. Until I saw that video it was always a challenge to set accurate angles, now it's so much easier. The precision you can achieve is mind boggling to me.
--
Bill From Socal
Re: Suggestions for quickly setting accurate angles on the compound?

 

Thanks! That looks like a great way to set an angle.


On Sun, Jul 21, 2024 at 6:50?AM William Nelson via <wnnelson=sbcglobal.net@groups.io> wrote:
Watch this Joe Pie video. I've used this on my 10k a bunch of times. He explains how extremely accurate this technique can be.
?
--
Bill From Socal
341 - 360 of 108630