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A local feller has this for sale for 200.? Says it opens 6" and weighs 70#.? Anyone know what model it is and if it's a good deal??

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??? ??? The old push tabs from Coors cans worked in the dryers , a friend told me .

??? ??? animal

On 2/27/2023 11:16 AM, Nick Andrews wrote:

Bill, that reminds me of back in college finding open padlocks on campus for various gates and doors, borrowing them, opening up the cores and, using needle files, hand filing key blanks obtained from Walmart or wherever until they worked.? Then, reassemble and return the lock.? These were American locks with swappable cores, easy enough to do.? Ended up with a few keys that opened (and likely still do) about 85% of the padlocks on campus.? So parking lots, steam tunnels, etc...

Also did the same for laundry machines at some apartments I lived in briefly where laundry was supposed to be included but they thought it fine to place coin op machines there, so definitely NOT included.? Holding a small key blank to file to fit was not that pleasant, even filing brass keys.

On Mon, Feb 27, 2023 at 11:50?AM wmrmeyers@... <wmrmeyers@...> wrote:

If all else fails, you can cut a t-nut like I did for my Atlas TH42. Hacksaw, and files. A Sharpie for layout dye, and a scratch awl for marking out. Took me about 4 hours. Didn't even have access to a vise at the time, so held the blank in my hand while cutting and filing on it. Nice sliding fit, no slop.?

Note that I would prefer not to have to do that again, but it's done and works nicely. ;)

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)?

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.?

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better

On Monday, February 27, 2023 at 11:42:30 AM CST, Steven Schlegel <sc.schlegel@...> wrote:

Excellent information! Thanks.

Now, if I could just remember how I prepared the t-nut on my SB9...

Get

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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of clive_foster@... via <clive_foster.t21=[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2023 2:40:21 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] T-Nuts, the easy way

?

The topic of getting or making T-nuts to fit QC and block type toolposts is a hardy perennial on forums and internet chat sites.

Reference to the Tooling Dimensions table in "How to Run a Lathe" will show that both sections of the compound Tee slot are nicely sized to accept standard steel bar sections. Two short lengths of appropriate sized bar can easily be screwed and glued together to make a proper full length T-nut that is a very nice fit in the slot. You may need to do a little scraping inside to clear accumulated grot and oil varnish. Possibly with added profanity.

Many years ago when I made several for the pair of 9" and Heavy 10 lathes I once owned I used a pair of countersunk?M6 socket hex screws and some sort of Loctite structural adhesive to do the gluing bit. Either M10 or M12 thread on the stud, sorry can't recall which. High strength loctite on all threads of course.

Back in those days I used several 4 way toolpost blocks as a poor boys QC system. Made the blocks by similar screwing and gluing methods from stock plate and bar sections. Alloy was fine for the centre bit. Each block got its own T-nut, stud and tightening lever so swopping was simple matter of half a turn and side out. In retrospect 2 slot blocks would have been just as effective. A fully loaded 4 slot has serious porcupine properties! Disadvantage of simple block posts is the need to shim tools to centre height. As a Brit I can cope just fine with such things. A quick contemplation of relative costs of a QC system to mine in those, pre cheap import days, rapidly resolved any mild resentment. Maybe a decade ago when my last Southbend, the Heavy 10, had been gone for almost as long, it occurred to me that the swopping block system meant I could have simply measured tool heights on the bench with simple jig.

It may be useful to review the whole T-nut situation.

Common advice is to modify what the supplier or make your own from scratch. For the inexperienced making and modifying is harder than it sounds. The two lips must be exactly co-planar if things are to hold properly. If they aren't the slot lips will be distorted and soon things will not hold. An oft ignored detail is that any decent toolpost will have a recess in the centre so the gripping forces are applied towards the outer sides of the post giving decent mechanical advantage. Primarily essential for lathes having a fixed stud where, over time, the centre of the slide around the stud will be pulled up under tightening stresses so only a narrow ring around the stud would actually grip properly on a flat bottom tool post. Common palliative advice is a thin card, pure aluminium or soft copper washer. These compress under stress enough to mostly spread the load.

Similar distortions happen with the more familiar, to SouthBend users, T- slotted compound. The top of the T-slot in the compound of my big P&W Model B was spectacularly distorted by previous owners using a T nut barely bigger than the recess in the base of the Dickson QC post. Resorting to ever longer spanners seemingly obscured the problem. The one in the swarf tray was over 2 ft long. I needed my 4 ft cheater bar to loosen the top nut. Yikes!?

In my view the T-nut should extend over the full length of the slot in the compound ensuring all loads are properly distributed minimising the chance of distortion and holding the toolpost firmly without resorting to over tightening and drastic sized spanners. This assumes the top of the toolpost is truly flat. Naturally this is something you will have checked and attended to before putting a new-to-me lathe into service. With the P&W T-slot top now properly flat and a full length T-nut fitted (P&W T-slots are also bar stock size) a moderate pull on a simple tube spanner with a pair of short handles, barely a handspan wide, extending each side keeps the post stable under even the heaviest of cuts.

Hope this helps.

Clive