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Re: A bit about your Group Moderator
Dee Schuyler
开云体育?
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Re: SB Restoration Site
--- In southbendlathe@y..., west@s... wrote:
--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Paul R. Hvidston" <p.hvidston@i...>spindle andstep and cause the belt to slip. When is too much slip a bad thing? I think that belt slippage is built in short coming of the SB Lathe.pulleys are starting to get slippery from oil/grease.Let's just say that when I accidently take too deep of a cut, the I have busted many a carbide tool bit when the work comes to a stop due to belt slippage. I do not know the answer to this, but regular cleaning of the belt with Acetone will help. I have ordered a new 4-ply power transmission belt for mine. I should have it this week. One of the features of this belt is its low stretch. You can increase the tension a bit more without a problem. You can also use belt dressing on the type of belt. One thing we should keep in mind is the fact that this little lathe was never designed for modern carbide tools and inserts. We tend to get a bit aggressive with this tool bits. As the normal cutting speed of carbide is about 4x faster than HHS. Momentum from the speed and the superior cutting properties of carbide will give us the feeling we can take bigger cuts, but the bottom line is, the poor little gear teeth may not hold out. Hope my two cents helps. Jim |
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Re: SB Restoration Site
Paul R. Hvidston
开云体育I'm curious about belt slip. With my current setup,
with a polyurethane belt, I can still grab the chuck or the largest spindle step
and cause the belt to slip. When is too much slip a bad thing? How soon does
your belt start slipping? I also wonder if my belt and pulleys are starting to
get slippery from oil/grease.
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Paul R. Hvidston Upland, CA ----- Original Message -----
that it's a modern day 1/2hp equivalent.? Sometimes I make too |
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Re: SB Restoration Site
--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Paul R. Hvidston" <p.hvidston@i...>
wrote: I'm curious about belt slip. With my current setup, with aLet's just say that when I accidently take too deep of a cut, the tool bit stops the work, chuck and all, and the leather belt slips until I turn the motor off and regroup. I have never noticed(heard or felt since I can't see the belt) it slipping when making normal cuts or procedures. Mike |
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A bit about your Group Moderator
For those of you who do not know me, I am the group moderator. I
started this group last month in hopes of gathering and sharing ideas about my newly acquired 9" SB Model A. I am overwhelmed with the turn out. Some great idea and discussions have already taken place. I thought it would be a great idea for us to give a little background about ourselves. I will start out and hope others will follow. My name is Jim Taylor and I am 39 years old. I live in Nova Scotia, Canada and have worked for Michelin Tire for over 20 years as a maintenance troubleshooter and now in spare parts and procurement. While employed with Michelin, a childhood friend and I started a Machine and Fabrication shop in 1983. With a staff of between 6 - 8 people, we serviced the majority of manufacturing and processing plants in our area. We also designed equipment for the manufacturing industry. I have since sold my interest in the machine shop and now I am setting up shop again in my basement for fun. I am hoping to that my experience in running a machine shop and my current purchasing job can contribute to this group in finding and souring parts and materials or problem solving. I would also like to take a moment to thank Paul Hvidston for his contribution to this group. He has been a great asset in keeping this group alive. Keep Up The Good Work Paul. Lets here from all of you. Jim |
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Re: Joining the list
Paul R. Hvidston
开云体育Welcome, Larry,
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We need to see pictures of your SB ;-) That's a
Loooong bed you have. Sometimes I wish I had more than 18" between centers, but
then I don't have any room in the garage as it is, so I'm content.
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About the bent CS handle, I'd be worried about
cracking it, but heating it would surely discolor it. So who knows. Maybe try
bending it just a little and see what happens. I had to straighten out the
turnbuckle screws on the belt tensioner on mine. They are soft enough you can
just clamp one in the vise and slip a long length of pipe over the end and tweak
it.
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The tail stock ram hand wheel on my SB is?also
slightly bent, but its the shaft, so when I tear it down for painting I'll try
my hand at straightening the shaft.
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Cheers!
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Paul R. Hvidston Upland, CA |
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Joining the list
Larry Buerer
Hi
I'm joining the list. I have a 9" Model A South Bend lathe. According to the invoice I have in my hand it was purchased from the Carey Machinery Supply Co. Baltimore, MD on 1/3/47. I purchased it from the original owned a few years ago in Eureka, CA so it traveled a bit. It is a bench top model about 30" between centers. Length 4 according to the tag on the gearbox. It seems to be in excellent condition, only a few aluminum chips here and there and a bit of surface rust (only enough to color a few things brown). The handle on the cross slide is bent, not the screw, the handle. Is it soft enough to bend back cold or should I heat it to bend it. Just for fun, it cost $283 new and the Jacobs chuck with it cost $15.30. The 4-jaw chuck was $34.15. Have a great day Larry Buerer |
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Re: SB Restoration Site
--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Paul R. Hvidston" <p.hvidston@i...>
wrote: Thanks Paul. I thought I saw a precision level in one of the pictures. Have youset up the lathe yet, and how does it perform, precision-wise? How's the 1/4 HP motor do? Yes, that's an 8" Starrett level I used to get the ways leveled-off, in fact, I think you can also see the test bar I started making in the same photo. The lathe was off .003 over 6", and after some trial and error tweaking, I was able to get it down to .001-.0015". (well within my tolerance level)(and ability) You know as well as I do, woodworking only uses fractions, and I don't ever remember using them down to 64ths. Now I have to deal with thousanths? Sheesh! The motor is suprisingly strong for it's rating. In fact, its much larger and heavier than a newer 1/2 hp motor I have. I would swear that it's a modern day 1/2hp equivalent. Sometimes I make too agressive of a cut, and the belt tends to slip, but I like that safety factor. At least I know I won't be burning the motor up. Maybe it's why it is still going strong after all these years. I'm glad I found this group, Mike |
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Re: SB Restoration Site
Paul R. Hvidston
开云体育Mike,
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Beautiful site, BEAUTIFUL SB!
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Just like you, I've poured over the frankenlathe
site and others gathering as much info on DIY restoration as I could. When I get
a chance, I'll be reviewing your site at a slower pace as I think about what
next to do to my 1941 9" SB. I too, have been if not shifting from, augmenting
my woodworking with metal working. Nice to have the capability for both. Corian
-- now that smacks of a woodworker.
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I thought I saw a precision level in one of the
pictures. Have you set up the lathe yet, and how does it perform,
precision-wise? How's the 1/4 HP motor do?
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Cheers!
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Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA I'm shifting gears from woodworking to metalworking and have |
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Heavy 10"
I have been looking for a Heavy 10 for some time now and thought I had
found one but the guy wanted the money upfront to finish rebuilding it. The ways had been scraped and it "looked" to be in good shape. I read the how to check an old lathe on the Southbend site and as I said it Looked good. Well anyway I'm still in the market. I live in the San Francisco Bay Area if anyone has any leads I could sure use them. Thanks Tracy Knight |
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1935 SB lathe Model C---more questions
Thanks to all who have responded to my post, and I appreciate the
encouragement, I thought it would be great for woodturning, although the lower speeds of the metal lathe concerned me. I emailed the company and asked about using a 3/4 HP variable speed motor I have (500-5000 rpms) to kick up the speed a bit, but they said that it would be too much torque. They also discouraged me from using it for woodturning and said parts for woodturning were discontinued 30 years ago. I am really intrigued about the idea of have a carriage and using it in woodturning. I thought it would be excellent for pens and small round boxes, also the boring capabilities would add to this. I have to believe that the precision that these machines have would be a real asset. So now if I want to use this lathe for woodturning, could I use a 1/2 HP motor, I have one of those too--- 1725 rpm like original. It would give a little more power, but same speeds. Also,I need help to identify some of the tooling I have. Some I can figure out, but there is alot of stuff I'm not sure of. I identified some though looking at Ebay ads and SB web site. Where do I even begin to start restoring this thing? Totally take it apart? I've got it broken down right now into the main removable pieces because I had to get it out of a basement. Headstock, Tailstock, Bed Etc. Any tips on repainting? Cleaning out gears and such? Someone mentioned making or having a woodturning type toolrest made, who could make one? Thanks all for encouragement. I think I will be looking alot on this board now. This is gonna be alot of work I think. And I just picked up an old Atlas table saw that I'm gonna need to work on, I'm in for alot ahead, but I really love the old tools. Bye for now! David |
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Repainting questions
Paul R. Hvidston
I expect to get to the point pretty soon where I'll want to make my 9" SB a
little more presentable, so short of hot-tanking the whole thing (in parts form) all at once, I'd like to do a subsystem at a time at home. That may not be terribly practical, and seeing how nice Jim's green machine turned out, hot-tanking is an option. I'd just hate to loose a part. Are there any procedures/products for the garage folks can recommend for stripping the parts down to bare metal? I noticed that acetone does seem to take off some of the paint, but that could be expensive/slow/hazardous. What kind of prep work did people do after reaching bare metal? What brands of paint and methods of application work the best? Thanks, Paul R. Hvidston ACKSYS Engineering Upland, CA |
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Re: Vintage South Bend Lathe 9" MODEL C 1935
Paul R. Hvidston
开云体育I second just about all?of what JWE said.
Having been wood turning for many years, I would say that your 9" SB is a good
starting point, however, my big Rockwell variable speed wood lathe runs 340-3600
RPM. The higher RPMs are desirable for wood turning. A 2" spindle, for example,
should be rough-turned at 900-1300 RPM, general cutting from 2400-2800 RPM and
finishing 3000-4000 RPM. Our little 9"SB spindles would burn out at?those
speeds.
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All that said, JWE is quite correct that you can do
some very nice wood turning on a metal lathe. Some work will just take a little
longer. The great mass and rigidity of a metal lathe?are an asset. I hope
you keep it. When your wood turning grows beyond the 9", save it for metal and
get a bigger wood lathe.
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Good luck and best wishes!
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Paul R. Hvidston Upland, CA ----- Original Message -----
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Re: Vintage South Bend Lathe 9" MODEL C 1935
I heartily second JS. Early's comment. If a hand rest is what you
find to be missing for what you want it for now, take the compound rest off and either make or have made a rest to fit in that socket. I think that just having a carriage should be enough to intrigue you. the rest follows the work with a simple turn of the handwheels. PS: I'm not bragging or anything, but I have turned a set of Georgian (or Victorian?? (not an architect:-])) pillars on a 19th century lathe. It had a 20'(yes,feet) WOODEN bed, about 18" centres. It took longer to set up a router jig for each individual flute in each column than it did to rough and finish from octagon. Wish I had a carriage then! If we can't convince you, what do you want for it? The whole thing tooling and all. It would be a shame to part it out if it is in good shape and mostly original. --- In southbendlathe@y..., "JS. EARLY" <j.w.early@w...> wrote: Davidjealousy cause you had a better machine than he did. A metal lathe can beused at the bottom end of its capability as a wood lathe. |
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Mack you tail stock work better
What I did was machine a new tail stock baring in brass and made it a tight fit.? The reasen I did this was the hole thing was lose and I figured out if the baring was tight it would fix every thing. It sure did and I added a oiler to it, I would check your barerings in the tail stock, the hand wheel on mine was moveing .075 side to side. Sorry about the pictures is not clear. Brett |
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South Bend Lathe Unit Codes
wyman100@netzero.net
Hi to All,
Have any of you noticed the unit codes on the sub-assemblies of your lathes? I have been looking at them for a few years and have come to some conclusions. Let's look at the apron on a model A lathe as an example. Your lathe may have a code like this: A 101 NK the first letter identifies the sub-assembly. (A - apron, C - compound, H - headstock, etc.) The number identifies the generation or design. (100 - first generation, 101 - second gen. etc.) I have seen headstocks as high as 117! The letters in the suffix identifies what size lathe the sub- assemblies fit. (N - nine inch, K - 10K, R - heavy ten, L - heavy ten (large spindle), T - thirteen inch, F - 14 1/2", H - sixteen inch). Early nine inch lathes would have an apron code like: A 100 N Because there wasn't a 10K lathe yet. Of course, sub-assemblies unique to the nine inch machines wouldn't have a "NK" suffix code. This information can come in useful when scrounging for parts and accessories. For example, a steady rest may have a unit code stamped adjacent to the inverted "vee" way like: SR 100 N which decodes into: SR - steady rest, 100 - first generation, N - nine inch lathe. Not all accessories were stamped with unit codes (early stuff wasn't). But you can still identify stuff sometimes. Most of the South Bend Lathe castings have "SMF" cast in them somewhere (Southbend Metal Foundry?). Sometimes you can see a part number cast into the part. These usually start with PT and will end with the same suffix codes mentioned before. Now a note of interest; some attachments and parts of sub-assemblies will fit more than on size lathe. The apron example is straight forward but let's say you have the upper portion of a steady rest and the part number is something like: PT #### NR. This means that it fits lathes nine inch through heavy ten (i.e. N, K, and R lathes). I have seen exceptions to these rules. The main one I can think of is the saddle. Most saddles will have codes like: S 102 NK but I have seen some that are S 400 NK and these seem to be a little heavier in the webbing of the casting at the back that forms the rear "vee" way. Also, as a side note, the quick-change gearbox on early nine inch machines had only one oiler on top while later machines have two. I don't know when this change occurred or if this is when the 10K machine came out. But I think this change was made before the 10K came out. Let me know what you have observed on your machines. Good Luck! - Blue Chips - Webb |
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Re: Hello To All
--- In southbendlathe@y..., wyman100@n... wrote:
Hi,several... Hi Webb! I recognize your signature from the Chaski Home Machinists board. I'm sure you will have much of value to add here. I'm one of the rookies. My 9" has been in the family since '34 and has MUCH more experience than I do. Welcome aboard! Dave D'Albertanson |
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Re: Vintage South Bend Lathe 9" MODEL C 1935
JS. EARLY
David
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Show quoted text
The most I can say is that whoever told you that did so out of pure jealousy cause you had a better machine than he did. A metal lathe can be used at the bottom end of its capability as a wood lathe. It can also be used to make a wood lathe or another smaller metal lathe. A wood lathe can only do simple work in wood. You can not make a wood lathe with a wood lathe. Get your self together and realize you have a very superior wood lathe that is also a very good metal lathe. The retired postman I bought my 9" model A from in 1969 made beautiful turned table legs on it and he made all the spindle turned parts for the 6 chairs to go with the table on it. Anyone who lays a tale on you that a heavy duty metal lathe is problematical when turning wood is probably going to offer to trade you his old worn out wood lathe that will really do the job if you will give him your not suitable metal lathe and a few bucks. Why do you think a new 10" wood lathe sells for about $200 and your antique metal lathe is worth three of those new wood lathes. Get smart and fix up and learn to use a real piece of machinery, you will never regret it. JWE ----- Original Message -----
From: <dkbear@...> To: <southbendlathe@...> Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2001 1:12 PM Subject: [southbendlathe] Vintage South Bend Lathe 9" MODEL C 1935 Hello all, I have acquired a Vintage Model C South Bend 9" Metal |
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