Re: 9/16 bushing x .0125 key way broach
You can use the carriage of your lathe as a hand-driven shaper, if you only need to cut a keyway occaisionally.?
You could drill out most of the waste if you do that before drilling/reaming the ID of the bushing. And you could file it out by hand if you're desperate. :)
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Saturday, April 26, 2025 at 02:32:12 PM CDT, Al Costich via groups.io <alcostich@...> wrote:
Jim B and others
?
>>>I think you mean 0.125.?
?
My bad. Yes .125 is what I need.
Sorry. Recent cataract has left me temporarily blind in one eye.?
?
And, yes, if I need to make one, I do have a lathe and a mill.
?
A few years ago I did make several gears.
I just can't remember how I cut the key way.
?
Alan
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Re: 9/16 bushing x .0125 key way broach
It's not that difficult to make a keyway for this purpose using a hacksaw & files. ? Eddie
?
------ Original Message ------
From: creswick@...
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, April 26th 2025, 20:42
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] 9/16 bushing x .0125 key way broach
? I have a broaching set and can make those pretty easily.? Email me directly if you're interested, I'm sure we can work something out. ? You can also broach on your lathe, though, with single-point tooling.? Skip to about 5:20 in this video to see the actual broaching bit (although the whole video is worth watching): ? ? --Rogan ?
?
On Sat, Apr 26, 2025 at 12:32?PM Al Costich via <alcostich= [email protected]> wrote: ? Jim B and others ? >>>I think you mean 0.125.? ? My bad. Yes .125 is what I need. Sorry. Recent cataract has left me temporarily blind in one eye.? ? And, yes, if I need to make one, I do have a lathe and a mill. ? A few years ago I did make several gears. I just can't remember how I cut the key way. ? Alan ? ?
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Re: 9/16 bushing x .0125 key way broach
I have a broaching set and can make those pretty easily.? Email me directly if you're interested, I'm sure we can work something out.
You can also broach on your lathe, though, with single-point tooling.? Skip to about 5:20 in this video to see the actual broaching bit (although the whole video is worth watching):
--Rogan
Jim B and others
?
>>>I think you mean 0.125.?
?
My bad. Yes .125 is what I need.
Sorry. Recent cataract has left me temporarily blind in one eye.?
?
And, yes, if I need to make one, I do have a lathe and a mill.
?
A few years ago I did make several gears.
I just can't remember how I cut the key way.
?
Alan
|
Re: 9/16 bushing x .0125 key way broach
Jim B and others
?
>>>I think you mean 0.125.?
?
My bad. Yes .125 is what I need.
Sorry. Recent cataract has left me temporarily blind in one eye.?
?
And, yes, if I need to make one, I do have a lathe and a mill.
?
A few years ago I did make several gears.
I just can't remember how I cut the key way.
?
Alan
|
Re: 9/16 bushing x .0125 key way broach
I think you mean 0.125.? At least that¡¯s what I used.? I used to have one but it went to the scraper when I moved to FL and a condo. ?
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On Apr 26, 2025, at 8:26?AM, Al Costich via groups.io <alcostich@...> wrote:
? I am attempting to mill a series of gears to use to single point? metric screws
on my SB 9A.
?
Said gears want to have a 9/16 center hole with a .0125 key way.
?
I am in need of a 9/16 bushing with a .0125 slot.
?
Might anyone have one that is superfluous to their needs?
?
Thanks.
?
Alan
?
--
Jim B
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9/16 bushing x .0125 key way broach
I am attempting to mill a series of gears to use to single point? metric screws
on my SB 9A.
?
Said gears want to have a 9/16 center hole with a .0125 key way.
?
I am in need of a 9/16 bushing with a .0125 slot.
?
Might anyone have one that is superfluous to their needs?
?
Thanks.
?
Alan
?
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
I don¡¯t know if the squeeze handle 10H is the same for the 10L . Dave
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
thanks ,?
I have a squeeze hand that I bought , I needed the type that ya
pull on the handle to move , I always get the 2 10" lathe mdl#'s
mixed up .
so if anyone needs a squeeze handle reverse tumbler & has a
pull type?? let's trade .
thanks
animal
On 4/2/25 10:34 AM, firefite Roenigk
via groups.io wrote:
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
If you don't find someone else who needs them worse, I could use them if they'll fit a 1941 Heavy 10L.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Wednesday, April 2, 2025 at 09:51:58 AM CDT, Andrei via groups.io <calciu1@...> wrote:
Guys, I have some SB heavy 10 parts that I don't need. They weigh about 15 pounds, give or take a little.?
I can post a picture later today, when i get back from work.?
The price is $0.00 but you have to cover the shipping from 22015 to wherever you are.?
What are you asking for it?
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
$1000.00
David Roenigk 9086 West Windsor Drive Olmsted Falls, Ohio 44138 I¡¯m going to live forever¡..So far so good firefite@...
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On Apr 2, 2025, at 10:42?AM, sapark123321 via groups.io <sapark123321@...> wrote:
What are you asking for it?
|
Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
Guys, I have some SB heavy 10 parts that I don't need. They weigh about 15 pounds, give or take a little.?
I can post a picture later today, when i get back from work.?
The price is $0.00 but you have to cover the shipping from 22015 to wherever you are.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
What are you asking for it?
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
What are you asking for it?
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Re: Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
??? does that have the squeeze lever reverse tumbler or the pull
handle reverse tumbler ?
thanks
animal
On 4/1/25 1:35 PM, firefite Roenigk via
groups.io wrote:
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I have a perfectly good 10H, well to get it out of the
basement, I got a larger lathe, It¡¯s no going in the basement. I
had to take it all apart. I¡¯m selling all Or parts of it. Dave
I will ship the parts if you pay for the shipping. ?Olmsted
Falls Ohio 44138
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Selling parts to SB 10Heavy
I have a perfectly good 10H, well to get it out of the basement, I got a larger lathe, It¡¯s no going in the basement. I had to take it all apart. I¡¯m selling all Or parts of it. Dave
I will ship the parts if you pay for the shipping. ?Olmsted Falls Ohio 44138
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Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
I was just coming around to that point of view.?
?
Thanks, Don
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Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Thank you, Andrei. My sentiments, exactly!
packard bill
On Tuesday, April 1, 2025 at 11:44:14 AM EDT, Andrei via groups.io <calciu1@...> wrote:
Guys, just cut the damn belt. You can buy a new one for 40-50 bucks.?
There is no need to torture yourself and your machine for something that can be resolved with a swipe of a knife and, later, with a little glue at the skivvied ends of the belt.
I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it
would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet¡. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable
persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ¡®steps¡¯ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it¡¯s cast
iron¡) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out
of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel
puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I¡¯d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room
to work¡
On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
?
Don
?
Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
?
Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
?
If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
?
Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place.
With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
?
Clive
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Guys, just cut the damn belt. You can buy a new one for 40-50 bucks.?
There is no need to torture yourself and your machine for something that can be resolved with a swipe of a knife and, later, with a little glue at the skivvied ends of the belt.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it
would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet¡. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable
persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ¡®steps¡¯ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it¡¯s cast
iron¡) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out
of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel
puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I¡¯d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room
to work¡
On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
?
Don
?
Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
?
Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
?
If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
?
Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place.
With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
?
Clive
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
I just took a look at mine ( cabinet mount with the side panel removed at present) and it certainly looks like it should be possible in theory. I see direct access to the taper pin that secures the large drive pulley to the shaft - though it would require care to hammer it out without hitting the cabinet¡. The cone pulley has two set screws, and I recall stoning the area where they contacted the shaft after I had everything apart. My bearings had both seized on the shaft and required considerable persuasion to get them to release and then slide off the shaft. Note the shaft has ¡®steps¡¯ on both ends for the bearing to seat against. The taper pin was cooperative for once, then I ended up using heat (torch) on the big drive pulley (careful, it¡¯s cast iron¡) and ice on the shaft, along with a wheel puller to get that pulley off. Then I managed to persuade the bearings out of the frame by removing the bolt-on keepers and forcefully tapping the shaft toward the tail stock end of the lathe. Once it came out of the frame, I used a wheel puller (it was tight) to pull the right end bearing from the shaft. I ended up ruining both bearings by forcing them off the shaft, but no damage to the shaft. The cone pulley came off more easily than expected using a bigger wheel puller. I had to clean up some burrs and rust spots on the shaft once it was all apart but it all cleaned up nicely. FWIW, I think I¡¯d try it without removing the belt, but worst case, you can always cut the belt and drop the cone pulley unit so you have room to work¡
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 31, 2025, at 10:55?AM, clive_foster@... via groups.io <clive_foster.t21@...> wrote:
? Don
?
Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
?
Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
?
If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
?
Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place. With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
?
Clive
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Don
?
Sounds like you got about as far, or maybe a bit further, than I did over 20 years ago before admitting defeat and cutting the belt.
?
Burred over and damaged set-screw holes were definitely a feature needing care to get things apart without significant damage and requiring thoughtful re-working to prevent a repeat.
?
If I recall correctly with the whole unit removed I was able to pull the bearings with the shaft sort of in place then tilt and slide to remove it so I could operate on the pulley mount area to de-burr et al.
?
Mine was on the final version of the sheet metal box stand. I'd already pulled the centre panel to fit shelves, doors and drawers for storage. Before re-installation I added a couple of extra holes, with covers, so everything could be re-assembled in place. With everything nicely prepped and clean it all went back together very easily.
?
Clive
|
Bill in OKC too
Al Costich
Jim_B
firefite Roenigk