Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Sorry, skived and glued belt. I'd rather not cut it, if there is a way to change out the right-side bearing leaving it whole.
?
Don
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Pull out the pin, it should come free.
Harry
Isn't there a current seam that can be
disassembled vs 'CUT'
On 3/22/2025 11:21 AM, Don Verdiani via
wrote:
Anyone been able to replace the right hand undermount cone
pulley bearing without cutting the drive belt?
?
Don Verdiani, PA USA
|
Re: 10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Isn't there a current seam that can be
disassembled vs 'CUT'
On 3/22/2025 11:21 AM, Don Verdiani via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Anyone been able to replace the right hand undermount cone
pulley bearing without cutting the drive belt?
?
Don Verdiani, PA USA
|
10L Undermount Cone Pully Bearing Replacement
Anyone been able to replace the right hand undermount cone pulley bearing without cutting the drive belt?
?
Don Verdiani, PA USA
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
Mark, I share your sentiments and experienced the same with my years of UPS shipping and delivery.
I never want UPS delivery if I can avoid it.? We use USPS , but prefer FedEx.
We got placed on the UPS "Signature Required" list.? Regardless of who or what is sent to us by UPS,?
we have to be home and give the UPS driver a signature. If not, no delivery, just a notice of attempted delivery.
Very frustrating.? We know our regular delivery guy well, and he said "that's a management policy" due to
past problems with unattended deliveries (left on the porch).? He said "you must have had claimed a non delivery
or did not receive a shipment" which caused the signature required.? Not our fault!? Why punish us?
So I do my shipping elsewhere, but they seem OK with that because I never heard back from UPS after my letter
explaining my frustration and lack of satisfaction.? They know better I guess.
On Tuesday, March 4, 2025 at 11:32:26 AM CST, Mark Moulding <mark@...> wrote:
I ship a moderate amount of widely-varying sized packages:? UPS store is usually a rip-off.? They're privately owned, and as @Andrei mentioned a UPS account is no good there.? Also, if you have them package anything for you, they charge a lot for the process, in addition to charging for the materials.? They also frequently do a crappy job.? I suspect that if you're a giant corporate client, UPS shipping rates might be a bit lower, but that's not the case in their stores.
?
FedEx, on the other hand, has been very good in my experience.? Their rates started out being competitive with those available in the UPS store, but I have a FedEx account, and they keep calling me about every six months to offer me new rate structures, which of course I always accept.? Now they're down to just about 2/3 of UPS rates.? Note that I am *not* some giant corporate customer - I send a stack of boxes every two or three months, and overnight packages every few weeks.? Also an occasional ground freight package two or three times a year.
?
I also frequently have them package things in the store for me.? They charge (slightly inflated prices) for the materials, but none for the service, and have always done an exemplary job.? They actually have a training program on how to do it right, and it shows.? Having an account also makes it easy for people to ship things to me - I can give them my account number, and tell them to take it to the FedEx store, and have the store do the packaging and shipping.? I recently received an old (1950s!) computer system this way - 400 pounds in three large boxes, which all arrived perfectly.
?
Just my experience...
~~
Mark
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
I ship a moderate amount of widely-varying sized packages:? UPS store is usually a rip-off.? They're privately owned, and as @Andrei mentioned a UPS account is no good there.? Also, if you have them package anything for you, they charge a lot for the process, in addition to charging for the materials.? They also frequently do a crappy job.? I suspect that if you're a giant corporate client, UPS shipping rates might be a bit lower, but that's not the case in their stores.
?
FedEx, on the other hand, has been very good in my experience.? Their rates started out being competitive with those available in the UPS store, but I have a FedEx account, and they keep calling me about every six months to offer me new rate structures, which of course I always accept.? Now they're down to just about 2/3 of UPS rates.? Note that I am *not* some giant corporate customer - I send a stack of boxes every two or three months, and overnight packages every few weeks.? Also an occasional ground freight package two or three times a year.
?
I also frequently have them package things in the store for me.? They charge (slightly inflated prices) for the materials, but none for the service, and have always done an exemplary job.? They actually have a training program on how to do it right, and it shows.? Having an account also makes it easy for people to ship things to me - I can give them my account number, and tell them to take it to the FedEx store, and have the store do the packaging and shipping.? I recently received an old (1950s!) computer system this way - 400 pounds in three large boxes, which all arrived perfectly.
?
Just my experience...
~~
Mark
South Bend 9" Model C, Walker Turner drill press, Rong Fu table-top mill, "Mini" lathe, a whole bunch of Shopsmith gear
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
For semi improved "fail safe" tracking add an
Apple Air-tag or the like to the package.
It is amusing / amazing / disappointing what a
shippers tracking tells you VS. what you can watch with an
Air-tag.
-----------------------------------
JEFF HAIN-MATSON
WRIGHTSVILLE, PA
717-252-4489 VOICE
717-252-4499 FAX
jeff@... E-MAIL
MVPA #1833
IMPS #1726
MVT #9362
On 2/27/2025 11:11 PM, John Byghtn3 via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a different story on FedEx,
(They are probably all the same tho),
I ordered several pieces of
machinery that were shipped from USA origin to USA
destination, via FedEx ground freight.
4 items were packed in wooden
crates:
1. Mini Excavator Bucket 3ft x 18in
x 12in wt 90lbs --Crate broken open & re-closed, but
delivered.
2. 200MM Hole drilling auger &
motor kit, 32in x 14iin x 12in, wt 135lbs, --Crate destroyed
only 1/2 of actual auger delivered, motor, hoses, and auger
tip missing.
3. 300MM Hole drilling auger &
motor kit, 32in x 18iin x 14in, wt 155lbs, --Crate destroyed
(Split diagonally) all pieces except auger tip delivered.
4. 36" HD excavator mounted hedge
trimmer(ish) attachment, 4ft x 24in x 18in, wt 165lbs -- Don't
know what happened, unit sat at my local depot for 15 days, no
delivery attempted and finally returned to vendor,(I missed it
by 1 day communicating with terminal manager), sat at vendors
receiving depot/terminal and still not finally delivered yet
for 10 days. I have called my local FedEx terminal manager at
least 30 times, spoke 3 times... 1st, 1 Day late for return to
vendor, he said he would try to turn unit around, did not
happen, 2nd, 6 days after arrival at RTV destination -Friday,
said he would continue to investigate, 3rd, MGR Out sick all
this week, an underling was to investigate. Package at other
terminal 10 days now. My phone log is off the screen 4 times.
Between no answering of the phone, no response to v-mail, no
response to e-mail, and multiple 1/2 promises to help, my
advice --GET
INSURANCE for 2X or 3X what you are selling these
items for.
Take lots of photos of what it is,
find similar sales of similar looking items because when it is
lost, or separated, or broken, you will have your proof of
value and proof of existence. Pack it well enough so they
don't say it was inadequately packed, and take photos as you
are packing it up.
My experience is 100% fail of safe
delivery and 10 percent of delivery at all, I picked-up 2 at
the terminal because of crate breakage and they won't deliver
a broken crate, and 1 is still officially lost, stalled,
damaged, 500miles away, with promises to help,,,,,MAYBE, "no
promises." There are no other replacement units available from
the vendor to replace it with,(much like your 1-of-a-kind,
chunk of iron).
Good luck on your decisions and
results!
John
On 2/27/2025 1:09 PM, Brian wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]
Closest city of any size is Madison, wi.
The bed turret I'm asking $750 firm for and the taper
attachment [complete except for binding lever] $800 firm
$1500 takes the pair.? Buyer pays shipping.
I won't put them on the auction site; last experience there
was very annoying to say the least.
I will, however, take the stuff to the UPS store and the
buyer can work it out with them.
Both are pretty rust free but full of shelf dust and old
oil...
?
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
I won’t use eBay again, going forward if someone wants it bad enough they can come to my door and pay cash or make their own arragements with a shipper local to me.? My last experience was shipping a part, wrapped in plastic and totally enclosed in expanding foam. There is no way in hell it could have moved in that box and the buyer had the nerve to bitch that [1] the package was missing stuff that was not in the auction listing picture, and [2] that it was too much trouble to unpack…simply put I don’t need the aggravation; every Tuesday and Thursday I go to a meeting next-door to a metal recycling place. I can always just take the stuff that don't sell and take my $1 a pound or whatever scrap iron is fetching these days.
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
I have a different story on FedEx,
(They are probably all the same tho),
I ordered several pieces of machinery
that were shipped from USA origin to USA destination, via FedEx
ground freight.
4 items were packed in wooden crates:
1. Mini Excavator Bucket 3ft x 18in x
12in wt 90lbs --Crate broken open & re-closed, but
delivered.
2. 200MM Hole drilling auger &
motor kit, 32in x 14iin x 12in, wt 135lbs, --Crate destroyed
only 1/2 of actual auger delivered, motor, hoses, and auger tip
missing.
3. 300MM Hole drilling auger &
motor kit, 32in x 18iin x 14in, wt 155lbs, --Crate destroyed
(Split diagonally) all pieces except auger tip delivered.
4. 36" HD excavator mounted hedge
trimmer(ish) attachment, 4ft x 24in x 18in, wt 165lbs -- Don't
know what happened, unit sat at my local depot for 15 days, no
delivery attempted and finally returned to vendor,(I missed it
by 1 day communicating with terminal manager), sat at vendors
receiving depot/terminal and still not finally delivered yet for
10 days. I have called my local FedEx terminal manager at least
30 times, spoke 3 times... 1st, 1 Day late for return to vendor,
he said he would try to turn unit around, did not happen, 2nd, 6
days after arrival at RTV destination -Friday, said he would
continue to investigate, 3rd, MGR Out sick all this week, an
underling was to investigate. Package at other terminal 10 days
now. My phone log is off the screen 4 times. Between no
answering of the phone, no response to v-mail, no response to
e-mail, and multiple 1/2 promises to help, my advice --GET INSURANCE for 2X or 3X
what you are selling these items for.
Take lots of photos of what it is,
find similar sales of similar looking items because when it is
lost, or separated, or broken, you will have your proof of value
and proof of existence. Pack it well enough so they don't say it
was inadequately packed, and take photos as you are packing it
up.
My experience is 100% fail of safe
delivery and 10 percent of delivery at all, I picked-up 2 at the
terminal because of crate breakage and they won't deliver a
broken crate, and 1 is still officially lost, stalled, damaged,
500miles away, with promises to help,,,,,MAYBE, "no promises."
There are no other replacement units available from the vendor
to replace it with,(much like your 1-of-a-kind, chunk of iron).
Good luck on your decisions and
results!
John
On 2/27/2025 1:09 PM, Brian wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
[Edited Message Follows]
Closest city of any size is Madison, wi.
The bed turret I'm asking $750 firm for and the taper
attachment [complete except for binding lever] $800 firm
$1500 takes the pair.? Buyer pays shipping.
I won't put them on the auction site; last experience there
was very annoying to say the least.
I will, however, take the stuff to the UPS store and the
buyer can work it out with them.
Both are pretty rust free but full of shelf dust and old
oil...
?
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
I have a different story on FedEx,
(They are probably all the same tho),
I ordered several pieces of machinery
that were shipped from USA origin to USA destination, via FedEx
ground freight.
4 items were packed in wooden crates:
1. Mini Excavator Bucket 3ft x 18in x
12in wt 90lbs --Crate broken open & re-closed, but delivered.
2. 200MM Hole drilling auger &
motor kit, 32in x 14iin x 12in, wt 135lbs, --Crate destroyed only
1/2 of actual auger delivered, motor, hoses, and auger tip
missing.
3. 300MM Hole drilling auger &
motor kit, 32in x 18iin x 14in, wt 155lbs, --Crate destroyed
(Split diagonally) all pieces except auger tip delivered.
4. 36" HD excavator mounted hedge
trimmer(ish) attachment, 4ft x 24in x 18in, wt 165lbs -- Don't
know what happened, unit sat at my local depot for 15 days, no
delivery attempted and finally returned to vendor,(I missed it by
1 day communicating with terminal manager), sat at vendors
receiving depot/terminal and still not finally delivered yet for
10 days. I have called my local FedEx terminal manager at least 30
times, spoke 3 times... 1st, 1 Day late for return to vendor, he
said he would try to turn unit around, did not happen, 2nd, 6 days
after arrival at RTV destination -Friday, said he would continue
to investigate, 3rd, MGR Out sick all this week, an underling was
to investigate. Package at other terminal 10 days now. My phone
log is off the screen 4 times. Between no answering of the phone,
no response to v-mail, no response to e-mail, and multiple 1/2
promises to help, my advice --GET INSURANCE for 2X or 3X what you are
selling these items for.
Take lots of photos of what it is, find
similar sales of similar looking items because when it is lost, or
separated, or broken, you will have your proof of value and proof
of existence. Pack it well enough so they don't say it was
inadequately packed, and take photos as you are packing it up.
My experience is 100% fail of safe
delivery and 10 percent of delivery at all, I picked-up 2 at the
terminal because of crate breakage and they won't deliver a broken
crate, and 1 is still officially lost, stalled, damaged, 500miles
away, with promises to help,,,,,MAYBE, "no promises." There are no
other replacement units available from the vendor to replace it
with,(much like your 1-of-a-kind, chunk of iron).
Good luck on your decisions and
results!
John
On 2/27/2025 1:26 PM, Andrei via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I suggest you folks avoid the "UPS Store" like the plague. They
will rip you off on the shipping rates. They charge way more
than what UPS does and they don't accept an UPS account for
payment.?
Instead, go to any FedEx office location and ship from there.
You get the same rates as if you would call up FedEx.??
[Edited Message Follows]
Closest city of any size is Madison, wi.
The bed turret I'm asking $750 firm for and the taper
attachment [complete except for binding lever] $800 firm
$1500 takes the pair.? Buyer pays shipping.
I won't put them on the auction site; last experience there
was very annoying to say the least.
I will, however, take the stuff to the UPS store and the
buyer can work it out with them.
Both are pretty rust free but full of shelf dust and old
oil...
?
|
I am in the process of cutting gearing to thread metric screws
on my SB 9A.
So, I need chunk of 2.125 brass round bar to finish.
Should you happen to have a six inch length that is
superfluous to you needs and you are in or near
Rochester NY, I would appreciate it.
?
If you are not near me, I would be willing to pay shipping.
?
Thanks.
?
Alan Costich?
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
I suggest you folks avoid the "UPS Store" like the plague. They will rip you off on the shipping rates. They charge way more than what UPS does and they don't accept an UPS account for payment.?
Instead, go to any FedEx office location and ship from there. You get the same rates as if you would call up FedEx.??
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
[Edited Message Follows]
Closest city of any size is Madison, wi.
The bed turret I'm asking $750 firm for and the taper attachment [complete except for binding lever] $800 firm
$1500 takes the pair.? Buyer pays shipping.
I won't put them on the auction site; last experience there was very annoying to say the least.
I will, however, take the stuff to the UPS store and the buyer can work it out with them.
Both are pretty rust free but full of shelf dust and old oil...
?
|
Re: FS parts and accessories
Closest city of any size is Madison, wi.
The bed turret I'm asking $750 firm for and the taper attachment [complete except for binding lever] $800 firm
$1500 takes the pair.? Buyer pays shipping.
I won't put them on the auction site; last experience there was very annoying to say the least.
I will, however, take the stuff to the UPS store and the buyer can work it out with them.
Both are pretty rust free but full of shelf dust and old oil...
?
|
If ya have to lift it with a engine hoist? or anything for that
matter make sure ya put a tag-line on the lathe . That line can be
one of yer best friends day of move .
Good luck , pic's or it didn't happen
be careful
animal
On 2/14/25 4:36 PM, James Rice via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have a South Bend 16
with the 12ft bed length option.? I think the model is a
117H.? I moved it to my shop on a 16' utility trailer.? The
previous?owner bolted it to a shipping frame made of
2"x4"x1/2" rectangular?tubing?to prevent the long bed from
sagging, twisting and breaking the casting. It slid into my
trailer very easily using pipe rollers and a pair of cable
hoists.? We also had two large helpers for?additional muscle
power.
At my shop, I had to
unload the lathe?and shift it around my shop by myself.? I do
have a shop built A-frame that is wide enough to straddle?my
trailer and has the chain hoist trolly at 12' off the floor.?
I also had a piece of 6" scrap I-beam left over from bracing a
sagging ceiling in my house after the previous owner removed a
load bearing wall.? I drilled holes in the beam and used it as
a spreader to lift the lathe up and drive the trailer out from
under the lathe, then lower it to the concrete floor.? I then
used pipe rollers, cable hoists and farm jacks to move the
lathe 40' across the shop floor to where?it still resides. I
was a bit nervous when I picked it up with a pair of engine
cranes to remove the transport frame from the pedestal and two
support legs.?
My 16 came with a
telescopic steady rest, a telescopic follower rest, taper
attachment, 5C collet closer, a 12" 4-jaw, 8" 3-jaw and a good
assortment of older Armstrong tool holders, lantern tool post
and a good collection of centers. Plus some other fiddly bits.
I run it with a VFD and modified the old mount for the drum
switch to hold a 22mm pushbutton station to control the VFD.
James R
What
you need is a few bodies and simple basic equipment.? Our
14.5" (1943 build date) was dragged out of a derelict
garage using a pull lift & slings.? We found a couple
of old doors & bits of timber on site to slide it on,
& managed to get it onto my car trailer (the car at
that time was a Peugeot 306 Diesel estate and certainly
knew it had a load behind it!? Said load included a bucket
full of tooling too heavy to lift, 2 chucks,
faceplate...).? On arrival at the railway, the trailer was
backed into the shed, under the gantry crane.? The crane
only covers part of the shed, so it had to move onwards on
lengths of tube (old boiler tubes) used as rollers,
persuaded by a crow bar.? Need plenty of spare rollers to
keep switching from back to front.? The secret is take
your time and do it gently and in small stages.? You'll
get the hang of steering it.? See attached.
?
If
we hadn't had the crane and had to unload it manually,
that would have been the most risky part.? Think I'd have
put the pull lift on again to control the descent and slid
it down some lengths of rail or similar.
?
Yes,
the pedestals include cut outs for a toe jack or long crow
bar.? Either suffices.? Sorry, can't advise the sizes of
the holes for the levelling screws.? My money would be on
something UNC (uncommon in our works). ?
?
Since
I can see myself in this photo, I think it was supplied by
Simon Waller.
?
Eddie
?
------ Original Message ------
From: ron.kellis=[email protected]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, February 14th 2025, 16:14
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] New 16" & Rigging
?
Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a
drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe
move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial
questions.
Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the
pedestal?
What diameter are the base and feet holes?
I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this
about right?
?
I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and
KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X
4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient?
?
I don't really like the ~ 30"? narrow, not sure which
is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2"
high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to
drop the height to lower my pucker factor.
?
I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and
pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12"
cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack
under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after
loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of
gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of
the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where
near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other
ideas/suggestions are welcome!
?
TIA
?
Ron
|
I have a South Bend 16 with the 12ft bed length option.? I think the model is a 117H.? I moved it to my shop on a 16' utility trailer.? The previous?owner bolted it to a shipping frame made of 2"x4"x1/2" rectangular?tubing?to prevent the long bed from sagging, twisting and breaking the casting. It slid into my trailer very easily using pipe rollers and a pair of cable hoists.? We also had two large helpers for?additional muscle power.
At my shop, I had to unload the lathe?and shift it around my shop by myself.? I do have a shop built A-frame that is wide enough to straddle?my trailer and has the chain hoist trolly at 12' off the floor.? I also had a piece of 6" scrap I-beam left over from bracing a sagging ceiling in my house after the previous owner removed a load bearing wall.? I drilled holes in the beam and used it as a spreader to lift the lathe up and drive the trailer out from under the lathe, then lower it to the concrete floor.? I then used pipe rollers, cable hoists and farm jacks to move the lathe 40' across the shop floor to where?it still resides. I was a bit nervous when I picked it up with a pair of engine cranes to remove the transport frame from the pedestal and two support legs.?
My 16 came with a telescopic steady rest, a telescopic follower rest, taper attachment, 5C collet closer, a 12" 4-jaw, 8" 3-jaw and a good assortment of older Armstrong tool holders, lantern tool post and a good collection of centers. Plus some other fiddly bits. I run it with a VFD and modified the old mount for the drum switch to hold a 22mm pushbutton station to control the VFD.
James R
What you need is a few bodies and simple basic equipment.? Our 14.5" (1943 build date) was dragged out of a derelict garage using a pull lift & slings.? We found a couple of old doors & bits of timber on site to slide it on, & managed to get it onto my car trailer (the car at that time was a Peugeot 306 Diesel estate and certainly knew it had a load behind it!? Said load included a bucket full of tooling too heavy to lift, 2 chucks, faceplate...).? On arrival at the railway, the trailer was backed into the shed, under the gantry crane.? The crane only covers part of the shed, so it had to move onwards on lengths of tube (old boiler tubes) used as rollers, persuaded by a crow bar.? Need plenty of spare rollers to keep switching from back to front.? The secret is take your time and do it gently and in small stages.? You'll get the hang of steering it.? See attached. ? If we hadn't had the crane and had to unload it manually, that would have been the most risky part.? Think I'd have put the pull lift on again to control the descent and slid it down some lengths of rail or similar. ? Yes, the pedestals include cut outs for a toe jack or long crow bar.? Either suffices.? Sorry, can't advise the sizes of the holes for the levelling screws.? My money would be on something UNC (uncommon in our works). ? ? Since I can see myself in this photo, I think it was supplied by Simon Waller. ? Eddie
? ------ Original Message ------
From: ron.kellis=[email protected]
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, February 14th 2025, 16:14
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] New 16" & Rigging
? Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial questions. Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the pedestal? What diameter are the base and feet holes? I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this about right? ? I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X 4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient? ? I don't really like the ~ 30"? narrow, not sure which is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2" high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to drop the height to lower my pucker factor. ? I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12" cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other ideas/suggestions are welcome! ? TIA ? Ron
|
What you need is a few bodies and simple basic equipment. ?Our 14.5" (1943 build date) was dragged out of a derelict garage using a pull lift & slings. ?We found a couple of old doors & bits of timber on site to slide it on, & managed to get it onto my car trailer (the car at that time was a Peugeot 306 Diesel estate and certainly knew it had a load behind it! ?Said load included a bucket full of tooling too heavy to lift, 2 chucks, faceplate...). ?On arrival at the railway, the trailer was backed into the shed, under the gantry crane. ?The crane only covers part of the shed, so it had to move onwards on lengths of tube (old boiler tubes) used as rollers, persuaded by a crow bar. ?Need plenty of spare rollers to keep switching from back to front. ?The secret is take your time and do it gently and in small stages. ?You'll get the hang of steering it. ?See attached. ? If we hadn't had the crane and had to unload it manually, that would have been the most risky part. ?Think I'd have put the pull lift on again to control the descent and slid it down some lengths of rail or similar. ? Yes, the pedestals include cut outs for a toe jack or long crow bar. ?Either suffices. ?Sorry, can't advise the sizes of the holes for the levelling screws. ?My money would be on something UNC (uncommon in our works). ? ? Since I can see myself in this photo, I think it was supplied by Simon Waller. ? Eddie
?
------ Original Message ------
From: ron.kellis@...
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, February 14th 2025, 16:14
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] New 16" & Rigging
? Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial questions. Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the pedestal? What diameter are the base and feet holes? I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this about right? ? I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X 4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient? ? I don't really like the ~ 30"? narrow, not sure which is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2" high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to drop the height to lower my pucker factor. ? I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12" cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other ideas/suggestions are welcome! ? TIA ? Ron
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Hi all, expect to be picking it up on Sunday, with a drop deck trailer. I have a 10EE, so not my 1st big lathe move, but the pedestal is a new challenge. Initial questions.
Is there a toe jack cut-out on the inside of the pedestal?
What diameter are the base and feet holes?
I've guesstimated the pedestal width ~ 20". Is this about right?
?
I am planning on a "As shipped by SB" type pallet and KISS pipe rollers as the floor is smooth. Think I need 4 X 4" runners or would two 2" X 12" X 9' be sufficient?
?
I don't really like the ~ 30"? narrow, not sure which is more scary, 4" high and ~40" wide, or stay only 2" high. Another option is I can easily notch the runners to drop the height to lower my pucker factor.
?
I have a toe jack, engine hoist for a safety, and pallet jack. The 10EE pallet I made was 4X6 with 2X12" cross pieces. The 6" height let me get the pallet jack under it but that was done to get it off the trailer after loading it with a lift. I did have to work the center of gravity by shifting one of the center boards to the toe of the tines. Just went very slow. But the SB has no where near the base mass of the 10EE, hence my caution. Other ideas/suggestions are welcome!
?
TIA
?
Ron
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Re: For sale listings permitted?
Ok I put the DTS100K lever slide on the auction site, since it didn’t seem to generate a lot of interest here.
Animal did you get your box o’ miscellany?
?
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Re: FS parts and accessories
I can also be reached at brianpsherwood at gmail dot com
i dunno why ka9egw at ka9egw dot com is being uncooperative
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harry molwitz
Carl Bukowsky
Mark Moulding
Al Costich
James Rice
