18427 is around 1920.? Serial numbers are in the Files section.? SB Cronology. It’s an automated Xcel program.?
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On Apr 1, 2024, at 11:35?PM, William Nelson <wnnelson@...> wrote:
?I thought we had a serial number data base. I don't see one.
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Bill From Socal
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Jim B
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I thought we had a serial number data base. I don't see one.
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Bill From Socal
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He has a picture of a serial number maybe. Pretty small number.?  -- Bill From Socal
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hey Steve, glad your still around. haven't seen much traffic from ya.?
On Monday, April 1, 2024 at 04:09:33 PM EDT, Steve Wells <wswells@...> wrote:
It looks like an 11 or 13-inch Series R from the mid 1930’s. ? Steve ?
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of William Nelson
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 11:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Lathe ID ? I'm not good at identifying old South Bends. A friend of mine has this lathe and another he will probably scrap. He already got rid of a tail stock. He was told it would cost to much to repair, but you can buy one of these other ones instead. I have not seen them in person yet and have no serial numbers off the bed. I can see it has the single tumbler gear box and looks to be a 9" but that's it for me. If you live in the Southern California area (Burbank) they will probably be available. I know you guys will know what this is. I do have a few other pictures but they don't show much.
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Bill From Socal
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It looks like an 11 or 13-inch Series R from the mid 1930’s. ? Steve ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of William Nelson
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2024 11:36 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Lathe ID? I'm not good at identifying old South Bends. A friend of mine has this lathe and another he will probably scrap. He already got rid of a tail stock. He was told it would cost to much to repair, but you can buy one of these other ones instead. I have not seen them in person yet and have no serial numbers off the bed. I can see it has the single tumbler gear box and looks to be a 9" but that's it for me. If you live in the Southern California area (Burbank) they will probably be available. I know you guys will know what this is. I do have a few other pictures but they don't show much.
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Bill From Socal
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??? ??? If it was the guy selling " these other ones instead "
telling im they can't be fixed I'd be lookin for a second opinion
. More pics could help identify also he could post the pics over
in SD forum on the Practical MAchinist forums .
animal
On 4/1/24 10:15 AM, Robert Bradley
wrote:
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Cost to repair is not a concern for many people.? If you do your
own repairs the cost is much lower.? I traded off a lathe years
ago that was missing the tailstock, could have made a much
better deal with a tailstock of any condition.
I'm not good at identifying old South Bends. A friend of mine
has this lathe and another he will probably scrap. He already
got rid of a tail stock. He was told it would cost to much to
repair, but you can buy one of these other ones instead. I have
not seen them in person yet and have no serial numbers off the
bed. I can see it has the single tumbler gear box and looks to
be a 9" but that's it for me. If you live in the Southern
California area (Burbank) they will probably be available. I
know you guys will know what this is. I do have a few other
pictures but they don't show much.
--
Bill From Socal
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Re: Rear Mounted Tool Post for SB 9" Lathes
Photos 0 and 1 show a very different paint finish.? Was there a significant time interval ?? ?What did you use to clean the "dark brown haze" from the surfaces?? ?
It looks beautiful.?
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Cost to repair is not a concern for many people.? If you do your own repairs the cost is much lower.? I traded off a lathe years ago that was missing the tailstock, could have made a much better deal with a tailstock of any condition.
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I'm not good at identifying old South Bends. A friend of mine has this lathe and another he will probably scrap. He already got rid of a tail stock. He was told it would cost to much to repair, but you can buy one of these other ones instead. I have not
seen them in person yet and have no serial numbers off the bed. I can see it has the single tumbler gear box and looks to be a 9" but that's it for me. If you live in the Southern California area (Burbank) they will probably be available. I know you guys will
know what this is. I do have a few other pictures but they don't show much.
--
Bill From Socal
|
I'm not good at identifying old South Bends. A friend of mine has this lathe and another he will probably scrap. He already got rid of a tail stock. He was told it would cost to much to repair, but you can buy one of these other ones instead. I have not seen them in person yet and have no serial numbers off the bed. I can see it has the single tumbler gear box and looks to be a 9" but that's it for me. If you live in the Southern California area (Burbank) they will probably be available. I know you guys will know what this is. I do have a few other pictures but they don't show much.
--
Bill From Socal
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Rear Mounted Tool Post for SB 9" Lathes
Mike Allen asked for more info on the rear mounted tool post seen on my SB 9". This came to me with the lathe. It's an added dovetail to the cross slide. Held by four smallish cap screws it's not the world most rigid set up. In fact, I've yet to use it! These are frequently speced as useful for an inverted cutoff blade, but I have been parting from the front forever and usually don't have a problem. (I don't part off 4" diameter slugs!)?
Right now it works well as a flat spot for the cutting fluid!
Now don't ask what the three tapped holes down the middle of my half nut lever are for, I don't know! (Someone suggested they were for mounting parts for an 'automatic' disengagement mechanism.)
John
PS: Are photos being automatically reduced in size? My originals are much higher resolution...
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Re: Enco 3.5" turret toolpost
Jack and John,
Thank you both for the offers. Another fellow is sending me a toolpost soon, and if it works out I'll be set. If not, I may contact one of you privately.
Jack,
Thank you for the info about the original Enco 2-1/2" turret. I only went with the 3-1/2" based on one ebay seller's comment about his coming from his 10L. Good to know how it originally was.
Nick
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Re: Enco 3.5" turret toolpost
John , not to hijack this thread , can ya please start a new one
with some inf on the rear mounted tool post in the pics ?
thanks
animal
On 3/30/24 9:59 PM, comstock_friend
wrote:
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Nick, I have an Enco or quality knock-off that came with my 9".
Available cheap if you don't mind shimming up for a 10". I've
standardized on KDK's for my 9" and 13" South Bends.
I can't get to it for dimensions for a week or two (it's at the
vacation house).
John
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Re: Enco 3.5" turret toolpost
Nick, I have an Enco or quality knock-off that came with my 9". Available cheap if you don't mind shimming up for a 10". I've standardized on KDK's for my 9" and 13" South Bends.
I can't get to it for dimensions for a week or two (it's at the vacation house).
John
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I may not have understood the original question but I thought it referred to finding the hole centers rather than drilling them. As likely as not before NC stuff became so common. die makers frequently had to find hole locations and it was done with transfer punches.? I have fitted backing plates to chucks several times with no mathematical pain.? Most chucks have a large round recess in the back.? To fit a plate to the chuck it will be required sooner or later to machine a round boss in the front of the backing plate to? fit precisely in that recess.? Usually by trial and error and sneaking up on it.? Real transfer punches are carefully machined to an exact diameter with a conical tip on them and they are hardened.? I have used setscrews as poor man's transfer punches.? Once the boss on the backplate is a snug bit in the back of the chuck, put the appropriate size setscrews in the holes in the back of the chuck just barely above the surface, maybe put some machinist's blue on them and set the plate on the back of the chuck.? Tap the plate and gently remove it and you should have your locations.? Drilling the holes slightly over size is a good idea as the boss and recess should hold the plate and chuck in position, not the screws.
I hope this helps,
Jack
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On 3/30/2024 10:17 PM, Jerry Cc via groups.io wrote: Another cheat I use on the lathe that sort of works, to stop a drill from wandering is use something in the tool post pressed near the tip of the drill bit when you begin the drilling operation.
On Mar 30, 2024, at 8:12 PM, Mail <Pfaff1222@...> wrote:
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Re: Enco 3.5" turret toolpost
Hi Nick,
I have a heavy 10 and when I bought it almost 60 years ago, I
bought an Enco square turret for it from the local South Bend
dealer.? That seemed to be the only alternative to a lantern post
back then.? It was? pretty nice compared to the alternatives back
then but I did need to go to a rape counselor for a couple of
visits. South Bend dealers were pretty proud of their stuff!? If I
remember correctly it even came in a cardboard box with the S-B
logo on it.? I still have it in excellent condition with the
original glued metal label on it.? It is a model 2 1/2 - S and is
2 1/2 inches per side and obviously made for a South Bend.? The
tee nut drops right into the Heavy 10.? So obviously you need to
find a 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 Enco turret.? I do not know if Enco made
different models for different lathes in that size but I suspect
the S in the model no is for South Bend.? I hope that this
information helps you out and if you have an interest in mine, I
no longer use it.? Feel free to pm me if you like.
Thanks,
Jack Reynolds
On 3/29/2024 6:04 PM, Nick via
groups.io wrote:
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As a followup to my previous post, the height from compound to
cutter tip on this toolpost is a whopping 1.62" if using 1/2" HSS
bits or indexing toolholders (0.560" from compound to underside of
turret, 0.560" for lower turret land, and 0.500" for the tool
itself). Way too high for my 10R, which according to the
documentation is supposed to be 1.03125" from compound to center
(and by my measure isn't far off). I thought briefly of modifying
it, taking the base down to 0.125" stickout and milling another
0.125" off the tool channels to bring the tool tip down to my
height, but I can't in good conscience ruin what could be a
perfect toolpost for someone else.
I'm going to clean this up and take some pics with measurements
and post them here. If I don't get any bites after a week, I'll
put it back on ebay.
Nick
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Another cheat I use on the lathe that sort of works, to stop a drill from wandering is use something in the tool post pressed near the tip of the drill bit when you begin the drilling operation.
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On Mar 30, 2024, at 8:12 PM, Mail <Pfaff1222@...> wrote:
?Yes i should have added using a Center drill prior to the small pilot hole. I do this mostly on the lathe.
Another tip I found on the www is using a steel ruler to find the Center on a shaft. It works best I found if you use a pointed shaft mounted in the chuck. Balance the rule over the shaft, lower the point. When the ruler is level you are darn close center. Quick and dirty method.
There are some very good YT videos out there.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 30, 2024, at 7:45 PM, tgerbic via groups.io <tgerbic@...> wrote:
seem obvious to me, however there
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Yes i should have added using a Center drill prior to the small pilot hole. I do this mostly on the lathe.
Another tip I found on the www is using a steel ruler to find the Center on a shaft. It works best I found if you use a pointed shaft mounted in the chuck. Balance the rule over the shaft, lower the point. When the ruler is level you are darn close center. Quick and dirty method.
There are some very good YT videos out there.
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On Mar 30, 2024, at 7:45 PM, tgerbic via groups.io <tgerbic@...> wrote:
seem obvious to me, however there
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Pilot holes are a good idea in most cases, especially if the ultimate drill size is vary big. Large drills alone may not track due to cutting torque.? Accurately positioned drill points matter a lot as well. It is also a good idea to use a center drill to start a hole that need some accuracy as they tend to be much more accurate for centering the hole and much more rigid compared to most drills people use.?
Your point is good since not everyone knows this that I have run across. You are commenting on a forum that has new people just starting out with metal working and need to pick up any good info we can provide.
My dad was a machinist for 40 years or so, and also a hobby woodworker. I was lucky to be able to learn interesting things about both areas as I was growing up. Now many seem obvious to me, however there is always something to learn just around the corner no matter how much you think you know.
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Oh boy I need to edit that posting! The third step I omitted was finish the hole with the final drill size. The hole size you really want.?
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On Mar 30, 2024, at 7:20 PM, Jerry Cc via groups.io <Pfaff1222@...> wrote:
? At the risk of posting something most people here already know: Our machinist (this was long ago) at work told me one day that if you drill a pilot hole first followed by a slightly undersize drill bit of the desired size to finish, ?the result be a hole just less than the drill size. He couldn’t explain why that happens. Part of the reason is I think that the drill cuts so little it’s acting like reamer and there is nothing forcing it off Center. I do this frequently.?
You probably also know that if a drill is sharpened with the point off Center it will cut a larger hole than nominal. I do that too when I need a little clearance.?
On Mar 30, 2024, at 6:56 PM, tgerbic via groups.io <tgerbic@...> wrote:
?Almost everyone has the drilling accuracy problem. It is impossible to drill a 0.500 hole with a 1/2" drill bit in a drill press. All drill press chuck assemblies have a little play, or they would not be able to move up and down very easily, or not at all. Drill chucks are not guaranteed to grip perfectly true. Drill bits generally have some wobble or flex, and have a diameter tolerance range.?? Reamers in collets on a lathe or mill will get you a lot closer but it still may take a lot of effort to even get close to 0.500.
In the case of your face plate adventure, you could put hours of exacting machine practice and science into getting the chuck almost exactly aligned. Or you can accept the realities of the tools and equipment you have and make allowances to calibrate the assembly, the best you theoretically can, after assembly. The little bit of slop in the holes might be needed to slightly move the chuck to get the center of the jaws aligned with the centerline of the lathe spindle and tailstock center. Having no tolerance will mean you may never be able to get it right.
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Jim_B
comstock_friend
