Re: Breaking carbide inserts parting off?
I have the el cheapo Bauer one and yes it works well but the idea on the lathe is for a nice clean square cut and to be able to easily make thick washers, etc.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, Apr 21, 2023 at 1:28?PM Andrei < calciu1@...> wrote:
I got one of these, Nick:?
Works great! You can use it at the bench vise and just about anywhere you have enough room to bring it in.?
Now I know that for some folks parting off in the lathe is routine, but for some of us it's a real PITA.? Or can be.? I've tried using a nice HSS blade in a holder with lots of oil and freshly-ground tip and still got it pulling to one side, and now a
1-inch tall steel blade with carbide insert for the first time last night.? Yeah, I broke the insert.? And yes, it was a cheapo chinese insert.? As delivered, the holder body was not well made and the bottom of the slot for the tool was tapered, causing a
tilt in the cutoff blade of about 3 degrees or so.? Imagine that from an ebay seller!? So I put it in the the vise and milled the slot more parallel, which corrected the vertical angle of the cutoff blade, mostly.? I tried to minimize stick-out but still got
too much chatter.? Part isn't that far out from the 4-jaw, but a tailstock center might've helped on chatter.
This is on a piece of 1.5" steel rod I got left from a construction project, no idea what alloy.? Maybe I have the wrong speed going and need to crank it up for carbide cutting.? Heard people say many home lathes struggle to spin fast enough for carbide
but that seems unlikely.? Haven't tested higher revs yet, wanted to get your thoughts.
I saw a youtube video this morning? where a guy made a little foot from a piece of CRS that he bolted through his tool holder that sits on the top of the cross slide to keep it from bending down which seems interesting, but not sure if I could do that
or not on my lathe.??
|
Re: Breaking carbide inserts parting off?
Make sure your tool is exactly perpendicular to the part/perfectly parallel to the cross-slide travel.? I have been at an angle but "the cross slide was pushing the tool perpendicular to the part" and kept binding, pushing off to side and breaking.
Ensure you are at spinning center of the part, not above and not below.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, Apr 21, 2023 at 2:49?PM ken campbell < deltainc@...> wrote: my first lathe was a 9 inch logan ...? needed a crutch approach to do cut-offs.? now I have a 13 inch Southbend ... seldom have trouble with cutoffs.
Stiffness is the key ... also so far my best cutoff tool is a blade with carbide insert.? mine is an expensive Iscar brand .? if you go chinese, at least go Shars or someone you can complain to .. heh.
with my 9 inch Logan, I got by ok with a slower but necessary method ::? ? run cutoff blade in about 2 widths deep, the start another cutoff cut inboard to same depth.? you are making a cutoff groove wider than your tool for chip clearance ... because chips are the biggest reason for failure in cutting off.? keep " double pecking " until the parting is done.??
hope this helps ...
oh, meanwhile keep an eye out for a bandsaw that takes a metal cutting blade ...  ?...?
|
Re: Breaking carbide inserts parting off?
my first lathe was a 9 inch logan ...? needed a crutch approach to do cut-offs.? now I have a 13 inch Southbend ... seldom have trouble with cutoffs.
Stiffness is the key ... also so far my best cutoff tool is a blade with carbide insert.? mine is an expensive Iscar brand .? if you go chinese, at least go Shars or someone you can complain to .. heh.
with my 9 inch Logan, I got by ok with a slower but necessary method ::? ? run cutoff blade in about 2 widths deep, the start another cutoff cut inboard to same depth.? you are making a cutoff groove wider than your tool for chip clearance ... because chips are the biggest reason for failure in cutting off.? keep " double pecking " until the parting is done.??
hope this helps ...
oh, meanwhile keep an eye out for a bandsaw that takes a metal cutting blade ...  ?...?
|
Re: Breaking carbide inserts parting off?
??? ??? I've seen some of those parting tool supports that folks
make on youtube in the past . Folks seem to like them ,? but then
again its the guy that made it that says its bitchin . These folks
make a longer crossslide casting that you machine to finish that
allows you to put a tool post behind the work so your parting tool
is mounted upside down , some folks say this is a huge improvement
when parting . This is one of my projects on my list to make
sometime . Are you locking the saddle & tightening the
crossslide & compound gibs? when parting ?
??? ???
??? ??? animal
On 4/21/2023 11:25 AM, Nick Andrews
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Now I know that for some folks parting off in the lathe is
routine, but for some of us it's a real PITA.? Or can be.?
I've tried using a nice HSS blade in a holder with lots of oil
and freshly-ground tip and still got it pulling to one side,
and now a 1-inch tall steel blade with carbide insert for the
first time last night.? Yeah, I broke the insert.? And yes, it
was a cheapo chinese insert.? As delivered, the holder body
was not well made and the bottom of the slot for the tool was
tapered, causing a tilt in the cutoff blade of about 3 degrees
or so.? Imagine that from an ebay seller!? So I put it in the
the vise and milled the slot more parallel, which corrected
the vertical angle of the cutoff blade, mostly.? I tried to
minimize stick-out but still got too much chatter.? Part isn't
that far out from the 4-jaw, but a tailstock center might've
helped on chatter.
This is on a piece of 1.5" steel rod I got left from a
construction project, no idea what alloy.? Maybe I have the
wrong speed going and need to crank it up for carbide
cutting.? Heard people say many home lathes struggle to spin
fast enough for carbide but that seems unlikely.? Haven't
tested higher revs yet, wanted to get your thoughts.
I saw a youtube video this morning? where a guy made a
little foot from a piece of CRS that he bolted through his
tool holder that sits on the top of the cross slide to keep it
from bending down which seems interesting, but not sure if I
could do that or not on my lathe.??
|
Re: Breaking carbide inserts parting off?
I got one of these, Nick:?
Works great! You can use it at the bench vise and just about anywhere you have enough room to bring it in.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Now I know that for some folks parting off in the lathe is routine, but for some of us it's a real PITA.? Or can be.? I've tried using a nice HSS blade in a holder with lots of oil and freshly-ground tip and still got it pulling to one side, and now a
1-inch tall steel blade with carbide insert for the first time last night.? Yeah, I broke the insert.? And yes, it was a cheapo chinese insert.? As delivered, the holder body was not well made and the bottom of the slot for the tool was tapered, causing a
tilt in the cutoff blade of about 3 degrees or so.? Imagine that from an ebay seller!? So I put it in the the vise and milled the slot more parallel, which corrected the vertical angle of the cutoff blade, mostly.? I tried to minimize stick-out but still got
too much chatter.? Part isn't that far out from the 4-jaw, but a tailstock center might've helped on chatter.
This is on a piece of 1.5" steel rod I got left from a construction project, no idea what alloy.? Maybe I have the wrong speed going and need to crank it up for carbide cutting.? Heard people say many home lathes struggle to spin fast enough for carbide
but that seems unlikely.? Haven't tested higher revs yet, wanted to get your thoughts.
I saw a youtube video this morning? where a guy made a little foot from a piece of CRS that he bolted through his tool holder that sits on the top of the cross slide to keep it from bending down which seems interesting, but not sure if I could do that
or not on my lathe.??
|
Breaking carbide inserts parting off?
Now I know that for some folks parting off in the lathe is routine, but for some of us it's a real PITA.? Or can be.? I've tried using a nice HSS blade in a holder with lots of oil and freshly-ground tip and still got it pulling to one side, and now a 1-inch tall steel blade with carbide insert for the first time last night.? Yeah, I broke the insert.? And yes, it was a cheapo chinese insert.?
As delivered, the holder body was not well made and the bottom of the slot for the tool was tapered, causing a tilt in the cutoff blade of about 3 degrees or so.? Imagine that from an ebay seller!? So I put it in the the vise and milled the slot more parallel, which corrected the vertical angle of the cutoff blade, mostly.? I tried to minimize stick-out but still got too much chatter.? Part isn't that far out from the 4-jaw, but a tailstock center might've helped on chatter.
This is on a piece of 1.5" steel rod I got left from a construction project, no idea what alloy.? Maybe I have the wrong speed going and need to crank it up for carbide cutting.? Heard people say many home lathes struggle to spin fast enough for carbide but that seems unlikely.? Haven't tested higher revs yet, wanted to get your thoughts.
I saw a youtube video this morning? where a guy made a little foot from a piece of CRS that he bolted through his tool holder that sits on the top of the cross slide to keep it from bending down which seems interesting, but not sure if I could do that or not on my lathe.??
|
Re: Home Shop Machinist Magazines
Hi,
I'm the buyer and yeah, that link is part of the reason I spent a day driving to/from western NY.
I'll have some duplicates -- I've been a subscriber for the past ~10 years -- and will batch sell those on eBay after I sort things all out.
--jet
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On 4/16/2023 3:42 PM, John Burt wrote: Jim, Thanks for the update. I'm glad they found a good home. I hauled a big collection of my Dad's HSM 500 miles to my home, and you're right, that's a lot of weight and shipping wouldn't have made any sense. 3 years later and I'm still making my way through them. I hope the buyer knows about the online index available here: <> That has been helpful to me, especially in the spreadsheet form, for finding articles/information of interest.
-- Jet Townsend <> HF: KC3HSO PGP fingerprint: CBFF BB96 45F0 EC10 9649 030E 12AA 9DBF DC01 847E
|
Re: Home Shop Machinist Magazines
Good for you, but sorry for me! ;) Hopefully the new owner will get lots of use out of it!
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms to live by: Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.? SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.Physics doesn't care about your schedule.The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Sunday, April 16, 2023 at 02:20:03 PM CDT, Jim Stack <jimstack25@...> wrote:
I know I'm a little late in posting this (I'm out of practice), but just a quick msg. to let everyone know my HSM magazine collection sold. Thanks everyone for the experience. ?-js
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
While maybe cheaper, a digital version just isn't the same, even if I printed it out in color at work.
On Mon, Apr 10, 2023 at 2:03?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? I just went to the HSM site case I was wonderin if the y
had the back issues on disc , but by the year not monthly disc . I
didn't see where they do that though other mag's offer that
feature .
??? ??? What I don't understand is why do some of the digital
month issues cost $ 8.50 & then the one next to it cost $ 5.00
. I was buying HSM & their other one for a while & out of
the 30-40 of them I have here from the last 10 years I think I
only found one article that was worth the price of the mag to me
& unfortunately I lost that issue & I don't remember which
issue it was? . Seems
to me that a 60-70 page magazine should have more than 5 articles
per month . I now get the magazine from England sent to my
computer every month . I also save $$$ that way cause I'm not
buying stuff from the add's , though I have bought from I think
Aerotrade (sp) before & the shipping to Ca US? was more
reasonable then alot of US shippers .
??? ??? end of rant
??? ??? animal
On 4/10/2023 8:28 AM, Bill in OKC too
via wrote:
I've been buying them as I
find one I need (for certain values of "need" anyway) since
ebay was a pup, and ordering from Village Press when I can't
find them any other way. Getting a bunch of them in one
swell foop would be really good. IIRC, oldest issue I have
is from early 90's, as that's about when I first found out
about them. Moved too often before then, and spent five
years overseas, too.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about your schedule.
The
only reason I know anything is because I've done
it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one
hand, expectorate in the other. See which one
gets full first.
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 10:18:39 AM CDT, John
Byghtn3 via <byghtn3@...>
wrote:
True,
but it is possible, as i bought 18 years of back
issues (6-12 issues at a time sometimes 99C per and
sometimes up to $6 per issue), from an eBay seller and
have a few dozen shipping boxes to show for it. HSM,
MW, DM, and Live Steam
.
This
offer at about $1.25 is an excellent bargain seeing as
99c was 7 years ago. Don't kick yourself for not
acting. The eBay guy is still there if you want to
wait at 99c-up.
.
This
effort would possibly be 4-5 boxes, 200 issues at 50
per box? 40 per box? altho. 40 years would be 480
issues of HSM 240 + MW240 plus a few specials, so
there are still some missing issues....
.
Your
call
.
Good
Luck
If I understood correctly, he has 40
years worth of magazines there. It's going to be
quite the effort to pack and ship. Quite a bit of
postage, too. Worth it to me, but I'll understand
if it's not worth it to him. :)
Bill in OKC
William
R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)?
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from
experience. Experience comes from
bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt,
and Overcome.
Physics doesn't
care about your schedule.
The only reason I
know anything is because I've done it
wrong enough times to START to know
better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate in the
other. See which one gets full
first.
On Sunday, April 9, 2023 at 10:56:51 PM CDT,
John Byghtn3 via <byghtn3@...>
wrote:
USPS
Media Mail is very economical...
but,
You
still have to pack them and carry them to
the post office.
Post
office may want to verify the contents as
well.
.
Good
Luck
On
4/9/2023 5:38 PM, Bill in OKC too via
wrote:
If you were willing to ship
them, I'd buy them. Unfortunately,
Oklahoma City doesn't seem to be local
to Niagara Falls.?
William R. Meyers, MSgt,
USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement comes from
experience. Experience comes
from bad judgement.?
SEMPER
GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only
reason I know anything is
because I've done it wrong
enough times to START to know
better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate
in the other. See which
one gets full first.
On Sunday, April 9, 2023 at 04:32:59
PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? If you can't sell them
you may see if theres a MakerSpace
in your area that would want them
.
??? ??? animal
On
4/9/2023 2:17 PM, Jim Stack wrote:
Hey Guys:
I'm starting to feel my age lately
and not been very active here for
quite a while.? I haven't gotten any
response from C.L. ?so I thought I'd
try here next.? I have a very large
collection of Home Shop Machinist
magazines in excellent condition
going back to 1982 thru the end of
2022.? My major interest now is
getting rid of the clutter that has
enveloped me for some time. I'm
offering the lot (more than 200
issues) to anyone that wants them
for any offer of ?$240 or more.
Further details can be found on the
Buffalo, NY Craigslist site, under
general.? The downside is you must
buy them all as I can't spend time
locating individual articles. I need
them all gone, and soon.? Shipping
is not available, so it has to be a
local pickup.? I live in western NYS
near Niagara Falls. Contact me any
way you can (no texting though) if
you are interested. ? Thanks. -js
|
Re: Home Shop Machinist Magazines
??? ??? I ave been looking for a semi recent back issue , I
bought it when it first came out but can not find it in any of my
magazine stacks . A guy wrote a article about a speeds & feeds
setup he built using a Arduino . I wanted to find it cause I was
interested in the code . It was from the last 2-3 years I couldn't
find it in any of the indexes for their 3 magazines , HSM MW &
Digital Workshop .
??? ??? If you remember & see it when your going through the
index or magazines please let? me know the issue date .? I will
buy the back issueif I can find which one it is? since I cannot
find my copy .
??? ??? thanks
??? ??? animal
On 4/16/2023 12:42 PM, John Burt wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Jim,
Thanks for the update. I'm glad they found a good home.
I hauled a big collection of my Dad's HSM 500 miles to my home,
and you're right, that's a lot of weight and shipping wouldn't
have made any sense.
3 years later and I'm still making my way through them.
I hope the buyer knows about the online index available here:
That has been helpful to me, especially in the spreadsheet form,
for finding articles/information of interest.
Now all I need is more time for the interesting projects and ideas
in those pages.
John
|
Re: Home Shop Machinist Magazines
Jim, Thanks for the update. I'm glad they found a good home. I hauled a big collection of my Dad's HSM 500 miles to my home, and you're right, that's a lot of weight and shipping wouldn't have made any sense. 3 years later and I'm still making my way through them. I hope the buyer knows about the online index available here:
That has been helpful to me, especially in the spreadsheet form, for finding articles/information of interest. Now all I need is more time for the interesting projects and ideas in those pages. John
|
Re: Home Shop Machinist Magazines
I know I'm a little late in posting this (I'm out of practice), but just a quick msg. to let everyone know my HSM magazine collection sold. Thanks everyone for the experience. ?-js
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
While maybe cheaper, a digital version just isn't the same, even if I printed it out in color at work.
On Mon, Apr 10, 2023 at 2:03?PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? I just went to the HSM site case I was wonderin if the y
had the back issues on disc , but by the year not monthly disc . I
didn't see where they do that though other mag's offer that
feature .
??? ??? What I don't understand is why do some of the digital
month issues cost $ 8.50 & then the one next to it cost $ 5.00
. I was buying HSM & their other one for a while & out of
the 30-40 of them I have here from the last 10 years I think I
only found one article that was worth the price of the mag to me
& unfortunately I lost that issue & I don't remember which
issue it was? . Seems
to me that a 60-70 page magazine should have more than 5 articles
per month . I now get the magazine from England sent to my
computer every month . I also save $$$ that way cause I'm not
buying stuff from the add's , though I have bought from I think
Aerotrade (sp) before & the shipping to Ca US? was more
reasonable then alot of US shippers .
??? ??? end of rant
??? ??? animal
On 4/10/2023 8:28 AM, Bill in OKC too
via wrote:
I've been buying them as I
find one I need (for certain values of "need" anyway) since
ebay was a pup, and ordering from Village Press when I can't
find them any other way. Getting a bunch of them in one
swell foop would be really good. IIRC, oldest issue I have
is from early 90's, as that's about when I first found out
about them. Moved too often before then, and spent five
years overseas, too.?
Bill in OKC
William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience.
Experience comes from bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about your schedule.
The
only reason I know anything is because I've done
it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one
hand, expectorate in the other. See which one
gets full first.
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 10:18:39 AM CDT, John
Byghtn3 via <byghtn3@...>
wrote:
True,
but it is possible, as i bought 18 years of back
issues (6-12 issues at a time sometimes 99C per and
sometimes up to $6 per issue), from an eBay seller and
have a few dozen shipping boxes to show for it. HSM,
MW, DM, and Live Steam
.
This
offer at about $1.25 is an excellent bargain seeing as
99c was 7 years ago. Don't kick yourself for not
acting. The eBay guy is still there if you want to
wait at 99c-up.
.
This
effort would possibly be 4-5 boxes, 200 issues at 50
per box? 40 per box? altho. 40 years would be 480
issues of HSM 240 + MW240 plus a few specials, so
there are still some missing issues....
.
Your
call
.
Good
Luck
If I understood correctly, he has 40
years worth of magazines there. It's going to be
quite the effort to pack and ship. Quite a bit of
postage, too. Worth it to me, but I'll understand
if it's not worth it to him. :)
Bill in OKC
William
R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)?
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from
experience. Experience comes from
bad judgement.?
SEMPER GUMBY!
Improvise, Adapt,
and Overcome.
Physics doesn't
care about your schedule.
The only reason I
know anything is because I've done it
wrong enough times to START to know
better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate in the
other. See which one gets full
first.
On Sunday, April 9, 2023 at 10:56:51 PM CDT,
John Byghtn3 via <byghtn3@...>
wrote:
USPS
Media Mail is very economical...
but,
You
still have to pack them and carry them to
the post office.
Post
office may want to verify the contents as
well.
.
Good
Luck
On
4/9/2023 5:38 PM, Bill in OKC too via
wrote:
If you were willing to ship
them, I'd buy them. Unfortunately,
Oklahoma City doesn't seem to be local
to Niagara Falls.?
William R. Meyers, MSgt,
USAF(Ret.)
Aphorisms
to live by:
Good judgement comes from
experience. Experience comes
from bad judgement.?
SEMPER
GUMBY!
Improvise,
Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics
doesn't care about your
schedule.
The only
reason I know anything is
because I've done it wrong
enough times to START to know
better.
Expect
in one hand, expectorate
in the other. See which
one gets full first.
On Sunday, April 9, 2023 at 04:32:59
PM CDT, mike allen <animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? If you can't sell them
you may see if theres a MakerSpace
in your area that would want them
.
??? ??? animal
On
4/9/2023 2:17 PM, Jim Stack wrote:
Hey Guys:
I'm starting to feel my age lately
and not been very active here for
quite a while.? I haven't gotten any
response from C.L. ?so I thought I'd
try here next.? I have a very large
collection of Home Shop Machinist
magazines in excellent condition
going back to 1982 thru the end of
2022.? My major interest now is
getting rid of the clutter that has
enveloped me for some time. I'm
offering the lot (more than 200
issues) to anyone that wants them
for any offer of ?$240 or more.
Further details can be found on the
Buffalo, NY Craigslist site, under
general.? The downside is you must
buy them all as I can't spend time
locating individual articles. I need
them all gone, and soon.? Shipping
is not available, so it has to be a
local pickup.? I live in western NYS
near Niagara Falls. Contact me any
way you can (no texting though) if
you are interested. ? Thanks. -js
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
??? ??? Damn my bad , that was for the V-belt model . sorry bout
that .
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 2:39 PM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Huh, my lathe only has three steps in the
flat-belt step pulley.
My tach is giving numbers that "feel" right,
given how fast things seem to be moving:
509, 300, 175 direct drive
95, 84, 33 back gears
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023, 1:04 PM
mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? Thanks , heres the google #'s in case you want to
check yer tach
??? ??? 48,
80, 96, 137, 165 and 276 r.p.m. in backgear and 244,
415, 502, 706, 844 and 1435 r.p.m. in direct drive.
With V-belt drive the speeds became approximately: 52,
72, 95, 112, 130, 150, 195 and 265 r.p.m. in backgear
and 285, 370, 495, 570, 670, 1010 and 1365 in open gear.
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 12:26 PM, Rogan Creswick wrote:
I don't know the spindle speed -- I have a
tach, but haven't measured & written down the speeds
at each setting -- as fas as it would go with my 1725rpm
motor, but there's a pulley exchange there that's likely
specific to my lathe.
For the crossfeed: I'm also not sure how the
gearbox translates to crossfeed speed.? I was using
the 224tpi / 0.0015" per rev gearbox setting.? Does
anyone know how that translates to a radial velocity?
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023
at 10:57?AM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? What speed were you using ?
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 9:00 AM, Rogan Creswick wrote:
Yeah, I was pretty worried about
that stick-out, but I only had three 3/16"
endmills; two of these, and one shorter 2-flute.
I wanted the extra flutes, given the speed
limits on my lathe, but these 4-flute
endmills?are fluted for a? *long* ways, and I
needed enough clean shank to indicate on.
I did break one of them in a test cut,
feeding by hand, though, so the power
cross-feed really made this possible.? I have
a really hard time feeding that slowly and
steadily by hand.
Thanks for the great video and
picture!? I'm amazed you were able to do
that slot with that end mill hanging out
that far. Nice. :-)
The other Jim B.
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
While rebuilding the head of my Bridgeport Series I variable speed, I wondered about the accuracy of the dial, so I bought a Jeff-special chinese digital optical tach from Amazon.? You apply a piece of reflective sticker to the spindle (or whatever you are checking), run the item and point the tach at the sticker.? With testing on multiple other things, it appears to be pretty accurate for the $15 or whatever it cost and seems to read pretty consistently.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023 at 4:39?PM Rogan Creswick < creswick@...> wrote: Huh, my lathe only has three steps in the flat-belt step pulley.
My tach is giving numbers that "feel" right, given how fast things seem to be moving:
509, 300, 175 direct drive
95, 84, 33 back gears
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023, 1:04 PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? Thanks , heres the google #'s in case you want to check
yer tach
??? ??? 48, 80, 96, 137, 165 and 276 r.p.m. in backgear and
244, 415, 502, 706, 844 and 1435 r.p.m. in direct drive. With V-belt
drive the speeds became approximately: 52, 72, 95, 112, 130,
150, 195 and 265 r.p.m. in backgear and 285, 370, 495, 570, 670,
1010 and 1365 in open gear.
??? ???
animal
On 4/11/2023 12:26 PM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
I don't know the spindle speed -- I have a tach,
but haven't measured & written down the speeds at each
setting -- as fas as it would go with my 1725rpm motor, but
there's a pulley exchange there that's likely specific to my
lathe.
For the crossfeed: I'm also not sure how the gearbox
translates to crossfeed speed.? I was using the 224tpi /
0.0015" per rev gearbox setting.? Does anyone know how that
translates to a radial velocity?
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023 at
10:57?AM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? What speed were you using ?
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 9:00 AM, Rogan Creswick wrote:
Yeah, I was pretty worried about that
stick-out, but I only had three 3/16" endmills; two of
these, and one shorter 2-flute. I wanted the extra
flutes, given the speed limits on my lathe, but these
4-flute endmills?are fluted for a? *long* ways, and I
needed enough clean shank to indicate on.
I did break one of them in a test cut, feeding by
hand, though, so the power cross-feed really made this
possible.? I have a really hard time feeding that
slowly and steadily by hand.
Thanks for the great video and
picture!? I'm amazed you were able to do that slot
with that end mill hanging out that far. Nice. :-)
The other Jim B.
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
Huh, my lathe only has three steps in the flat-belt step pulley.
My tach is giving numbers that "feel" right, given how fast things seem to be moving:
509, 300, 175 direct drive
95, 84, 33 back gears
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023, 1:04 PM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? Thanks , heres the google #'s in case you want to check
yer tach
??? ??? 48, 80, 96, 137, 165 and 276 r.p.m. in backgear and
244, 415, 502, 706, 844 and 1435 r.p.m. in direct drive. With V-belt
drive the speeds became approximately: 52, 72, 95, 112, 130,
150, 195 and 265 r.p.m. in backgear and 285, 370, 495, 570, 670,
1010 and 1365 in open gear.
??? ???
animal
On 4/11/2023 12:26 PM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
I don't know the spindle speed -- I have a tach,
but haven't measured & written down the speeds at each
setting -- as fas as it would go with my 1725rpm motor, but
there's a pulley exchange there that's likely specific to my
lathe.
For the crossfeed: I'm also not sure how the gearbox
translates to crossfeed speed.? I was using the 224tpi /
0.0015" per rev gearbox setting.? Does anyone know how that
translates to a radial velocity?
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023 at
10:57?AM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? What speed were you using ?
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 9:00 AM, Rogan Creswick wrote:
Yeah, I was pretty worried about that
stick-out, but I only had three 3/16" endmills; two of
these, and one shorter 2-flute. I wanted the extra
flutes, given the speed limits on my lathe, but these
4-flute endmills?are fluted for a? *long* ways, and I
needed enough clean shank to indicate on.
I did break one of them in a test cut, feeding by
hand, though, so the power cross-feed really made this
possible.? I have a really hard time feeding that
slowly and steadily by hand.
Thanks for the great video and
picture!? I'm amazed you were able to do that slot
with that end mill hanging out that far. Nice. :-)
The other Jim B.
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
> It appears that this selector fork has a bearing function on the thrust faces. Did you consider that and what it rubs against when selecting the material?
I opted for something with slightly?higher wear resistance than the paper-mache original :D?
Seriously, though: I put some thought into it, but this is a hobby machine, and the total hour count will be measured in dozens of hours.? I used a bit of scrap that I believe to be cast iron, it's bearing against a steel flange, and it'll be packed in grease.? As I understand it, cast iron on steel is generally an effective bearing surface, and shouldn't gall. My part should?still wear first, so if it does fail I can make a new one with a different?material.
I'm taking a risk, since I'm not 100% sure of the material, but for my use, I think it'll be OK. I imagine bronze would be better, but I didn't have any, and they didn't use a particularly reliable material initially.
--Rogan
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Rogan, nice bit of improvised milling, and I hope it works OK for you.
It appears that this selector fork has a bearing function on the thrust faces. Did you consider that and what it rubs against when selecting the material?
Eddie
------ Original Message ------ From: "Rogan Creswick" <creswick@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, 11 Apr, 23 At 05:55 Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
I posted a while back about needing to cut a slot without a milling machine; I thought I'd circle back and let you all know how it worked out.
The part I made is the back-gear engagement shoe for a Jet JVM-1044 bridgeport clone milling machine. It lifts a sprocket to engage with the bull gear that drives the quill when in back gears. I'm rebuilding the mill because I couldn't use the "front" gears, due to a horrible racket coming from the head.. the old shoe had broken, and I think it wasn't fully disengaging (although I'm not positive about that... still investigating).
Anyhow, I needed to cut a ~0.300" deep slot, about 0.195" wide, and 1" long. I started by laying it out, then cut three kerfs with a bandsaw, and broke out the two loose bits that remained, so most of the material was taken out that way, but the slot needs a good finish, and it needs to be a good sliding fit on a pin in the milling machine.
I put two 5/16 threaded holes in the T-nut for my tool holder and clamped the part to that, using a stack of shims to get the appropriate height, then used the compound to dial in the surface so it was parallel with the cross-slide.
I dialed in a 3/16 carbide endmill in the 4-jaw to ~0.0005" of concentric, and took three 0.100" deep passes, running as fast as the spindle would go, in the slowest powered cross-feed setting.
I had to adjust shims to get another ~0.010" of width, took three more passes (careful to avoid climb milling) and it was done (well, with the slot).
Here's a video of the milling op on the lathe:
I'm attaching a few photos of the old / new finished parts, and a shot of the lathe setup.
--Rogan
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
??? ??? Thanks , heres the google #'s in case you want to check
yer tach
??? ??? 48, 80, 96, 137, 165 and 276 r.p.m. in backgear and
244, 415, 502, 706, 844 and 1435 r.p.m. in direct drive. With V-belt
drive the speeds became approximately: 52, 72, 95, 112, 130,
150, 195 and 265 r.p.m. in backgear and 285, 370, 495, 570, 670,
1010 and 1365 in open gear.
??? ???
animal
On 4/11/2023 12:26 PM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I don't know the spindle speed -- I have a tach,
but haven't measured & written down the speeds at each
setting -- as fas as it would go with my 1725rpm motor, but
there's a pulley exchange there that's likely specific to my
lathe.
For the crossfeed: I'm also not sure how the gearbox
translates to crossfeed speed.? I was using the 224tpi /
0.0015" per rev gearbox setting.? Does anyone know how that
translates to a radial velocity?
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023 at
10:57?AM mike allen < animal@...>
wrote:
??? ??? What speed were you using ?
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 9:00 AM, Rogan Creswick wrote:
Yeah, I was pretty worried about that
stick-out, but I only had three 3/16" endmills; two of
these, and one shorter 2-flute. I wanted the extra
flutes, given the speed limits on my lathe, but these
4-flute endmills?are fluted for a? *long* ways, and I
needed enough clean shank to indicate on.
I did break one of them in a test cut, feeding by
hand, though, so the power cross-feed really made this
possible.? I have a really hard time feeding that
slowly and steadily by hand.
Thanks for the great video and
picture!? I'm amazed you were able to do that slot
with that end mill hanging out that far. Nice. :-)
The other Jim B.
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
Hi Rogan, nice bit of improvised milling, and I hope it works OK for you.
It appears that this selector fork has a bearing function on the thrust faces. Did you consider that and what it rubs against when selecting the material?
Eddie
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
------ Original Message ------ From: "Rogan Creswick" <creswick@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, 11 Apr, 23 At 05:55 Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
I posted a while back about needing to cut a slot without a milling machine; I thought I'd circle back and let you all know how it worked out.
The part I made is the back-gear engagement shoe for a Jet JVM-1044 bridgeport clone milling machine. It lifts a sprocket to engage with the bull gear that drives the quill when in back gears. I'm rebuilding the mill because I couldn't use the "front" gears, due to a horrible racket coming from the head.. the old shoe had broken, and I think it wasn't fully disengaging (although I'm not positive about that... still investigating).
Anyhow, I needed to cut a ~0.300" deep slot, about 0.195" wide, and 1" long. I started by laying it out, then cut three kerfs with a bandsaw, and broke out the two loose bits that remained, so most of the material was taken out that way, but the slot needs a good finish, and it needs to be a good sliding fit on a pin in the milling machine.
I put two 5/16 threaded holes in the T-nut for my tool holder and clamped the part to that, using a stack of shims to get the appropriate height, then used the compound to dial in the surface so it was parallel with the cross-slide.
I dialed in a 3/16 carbide endmill in the 4-jaw to ~0.0005" of concentric, and took three 0.100" deep passes, running as fast as the spindle would go, in the slowest powered cross-feed setting.
I had to adjust shims to get another ~0.010" of width, took three more passes (careful to avoid climb milling) and it was done (well, with the slot).
Here's a video of the milling op on the lathe:
I'm attaching a few photos of the old / new finished parts, and a shot of the lathe setup.
--Rogan
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
I don't know the spindle speed -- I have a tach, but haven't measured & written down the speeds at each setting -- as fas as it would go with my 1725rpm motor, but there's a pulley exchange there that's likely specific to my lathe.
For the crossfeed: I'm also not sure how the gearbox translates to crossfeed speed.? I was using the 224tpi / 0.0015" per rev gearbox setting.? Does anyone know how that translates to a radial velocity?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Tue, Apr 11, 2023 at 10:57?AM mike allen < animal@...> wrote:
??? ??? What speed were you using ?
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 9:00 AM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
Yeah, I was pretty worried about that stick-out,
but I only had three 3/16" endmills; two of these, and one
shorter 2-flute. I wanted the extra flutes, given the speed
limits on my lathe, but these 4-flute endmills?are fluted for a?
*long* ways, and I needed enough clean shank to indicate on.
I did break one of them in a test cut, feeding by hand,
though, so the power cross-feed really made this possible.? I
have a really hard time feeding that slowly and steadily by
hand.
Thanks for the great video and picture!? I'm
amazed you were able to do that slot with that end mill
hanging out that far. Nice. :-)
The other Jim B.
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
??? ??? What speed were you using ?
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 9:00 AM, Rogan Creswick
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yeah, I was pretty worried about that stick-out,
but I only had three 3/16" endmills; two of these, and one
shorter 2-flute. I wanted the extra flutes, given the speed
limits on my lathe, but these 4-flute endmills?are fluted for a?
*long* ways, and I needed enough clean shank to indicate on.
I did break one of them in a test cut, feeding by hand,
though, so the power cross-feed really made this possible.? I
have a really hard time feeding that slowly and steadily by
hand.
Thanks for the great video and picture!? I'm
amazed you were able to do that slot with that end mill
hanging out that far. Nice. :-)
The other Jim B.
|
Re: Slot-milling worked out on my 10k
??? ??? ??? Yea , thanks . It's always interesting to see how
folks make do with whats in hand . That came our pretty darn slick
.
??? ??? animal
On 4/11/2023 5:54 AM, Carl Bukowsky via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Well done! ?Thanks for sharing and the inspiration ….
Sent by my iPhone
?
I posted a while back about needing to cut a
slot without a milling machine; I thought I'd circle back
and let you all know how it worked out.
The part I made is the back-gear engagement shoe for a
Jet JVM-1044 bridgeport clone milling machine.? It lifts a
sprocket to engage with the bull gear that drives the
quill when in back gears.? I'm rebuilding the mill because
I couldn't use the "front" gears, due to a horrible racket
coming from the head.. the old shoe had broken, and I
think?it wasn't fully disengaging (although I'm not
positive about that... still investigating).
Anyhow, I needed to cut a ~0.300" deep slot, about
0.195" wide, and 1" long. I started by laying it out, then
cut three kerfs with a bandsaw, and broke out the two
loose bits that remained, so most of the material was
taken out that way, but the slot needs a good finish, and
it needs to be a good sliding fit on a pin in the milling
machine.
I put two 5/16 threaded holes in the T-nut for my tool
holder and clamped the part to that, using a stack of
shims to get the?appropriate height, then used the
compound to dial in the surface so it was parallel with
the cross-slide.
I dialed in a 3/16 carbide endmill?in the 4-jaw to
~0.0005" of concentric, and took three 0.100" deep passes,
running as fast as the spindle would go, in the slowest
powered cross-feed setting.
I had to adjust shims to get another ~0.010" of width,
took three more passes (careful to avoid climb milling)
and it was done (well, with the slot).
Here's a video of the milling op on the lathe:?
I'm attaching a few photos of the old / new finished
parts, and a shot of the lathe setup.
--Rogan
  
|