Yes the slab secures the QCTP. The stub centered it.?
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On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:59 PM, Rick <vwrick@...> wrote:
?On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 06:57 PM, Jim_B wrote:
In that picture, yes. That’s an Atlas. On a SB there is a stub.?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:52 PM, Rick <vwrick@...> wrote:
On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 06:44 PM, Jim_B wrote:
Here is a way to do it on a lathe.?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:26 PM, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:
?
Don,
?
I do not believe that Al is in need to the milling.? I'm the one fitting the Phase 2 QCTP to my SB9c.? Al was just schooling me on an approach.? I appreciate the offer to do the milling, but sooner or later, I need to put on the "big boy pants" and take care of it myself. ;o)
?
Greg
?
ps: If I crash and burn, I mat take you up on the offer.
?
On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 05:07:07 PM CST, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
?
?
Al, where are you. I’ll be happy to mill it for you ?
?
Don in Eastern PA
?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 3:48 PM, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:
?
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit.
Al
?
?
Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
?
--
Jim B
Looking at the pictures, you don’t seem to end up with a T nut, but a flat flat. Is that correct, or am I just not seeing the T?
--
Jim B
So a round stub, not a T nut. ?
--
Jim B
|
On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 06:57 PM, Jim_B wrote:
In that picture, yes. That’s an Atlas. On a SB there is a stub.?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:52 PM, Rick <vwrick@...> wrote:
On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 06:44 PM, Jim_B wrote:
Here is a way to do it on a lathe.?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:26 PM, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:
?
Don,
?
I do not believe that Al is in need to the milling.? I'm the one fitting the Phase 2 QCTP to my SB9c.? Al was just schooling me on an approach.? I appreciate the offer to do the milling, but sooner or later, I need to put on the "big boy pants" and take care of it myself. ;o)
?
Greg
?
ps: If I crash and burn, I mat take you up on the offer.
?
On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 05:07:07 PM CST, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
?
?
Al, where are you. I’ll be happy to mill it for you ?
?
Don in Eastern PA
?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 3:48 PM, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:
?
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit.
Al
?
?
Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
?
--
Jim B
Looking at the pictures, you don’t seem to end up with a T nut, but a flat flat. Is that correct, or am I just not seeing the T?
--
Jim B
So a round stub, not a T nut. ?
|
In that picture, yes. That’s an Atlas. On a SB there is a stub.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:52 PM, Rick <vwrick@...> wrote:
?On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 06:44 PM, Jim_B wrote:
Here is a way to do it on a lathe.?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:26 PM, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:
?
Don,
?
I do not believe that Al is in need to the milling.? I'm the one fitting the Phase 2 QCTP to my SB9c.? Al was just schooling me on an approach.? I appreciate the offer to do the milling, but sooner or later, I need to put on the "big boy pants" and take care of it myself. ;o)
?
Greg
?
ps: If I crash and burn, I mat take you up on the offer.
?
On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 05:07:07 PM CST, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
?
?
Al, where are you. I’ll be happy to mill it for you ?
?
Don in Eastern PA
?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 3:48 PM, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:
?
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit.
Al
?
?
Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
?
--
Jim B
Looking at the pictures, you don’t seem to end up with a T nut, but a flat flat. Is that correct, or am I just not seeing the T?
--
Jim B
|
On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 06:44 PM, Jim_B wrote:
Here is a way to do it on a lathe.?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:26 PM, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:
?
Don,
?
I do not believe that Al is in need to the milling.? I'm the one fitting the Phase 2 QCTP to my SB9c.? Al was just schooling me on an approach.? I appreciate the offer to do the milling, but sooner or later, I need to put on the "big boy pants" and take care of it myself. ;o)
?
Greg
?
ps: If I crash and burn, I mat take you up on the offer.
?
On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 05:07:07 PM CST, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
?
?
Al, where are you. I’ll be happy to mill it for you ?
?
Don in Eastern PA
?
On Feb 26, 2023, at 3:48 PM, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:
?
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit.
Al
?
?
Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
?
--
Jim B
Looking at the pictures, you don’t seem to end up with a T nut, but a flat flat. Is that correct, or am I just not seeing the T?
|
Here is a way to do it on a lathe.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Feb 26, 2023, at 6:26 PM, G K via groups.io <bug_hunter2000@...> wrote:
?
Don,
I do not believe that Al is in need to the milling.? I'm the one fitting the Phase 2 QCTP to my SB9c.? Al was just schooling me on an approach.? I appreciate the offer to do the milling, but sooner or later, I need to put on the "big boy pants" and take care of it myself. ;o)
Greg
ps: If I crash and burn, I mat take you up on the offer.
On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 05:07:07 PM CST, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
Al, where are you. I’ll be happy to mill it for you ?
Don in Eastern PA On Feb 26, 2023, at 3:48 PM, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:
?
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit. Al ? ? Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
--
Jim B
|
Don,
I do not believe that Al is in need to the milling.? I'm the one fitting the Phase 2 QCTP to my SB9c.? Al was just schooling me on an approach.? I appreciate the offer to do the milling, but sooner or later, I need to put on the "big boy pants" and take care of it myself. ;o)
Greg
ps: If I crash and burn, I mat take you up on the offer.
On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 05:07:07 PM CST, Don Verdiani via groups.io <dlverdiani@...> wrote:
Al, where are you. I’ll be happy to mill it for you ?
Don in Eastern PA On Feb 26, 2023, at 3:48 PM, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:
?
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit. Al ? ? Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
|
Al, where are you. I’ll be happy to mill it for you ?
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Show quoted text
On Feb 26, 2023, at 3:48 PM, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:
?
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit. Al ? ? Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
Maybe in a production environment this saved some time, in a home shop situation, people do it purely for the sake of doing it.
|
Thanks Al,
Pretty sure it's M14x1.5.
If I have a tap in that size, I'll go with there-drill and re-tap.? If not, I'll mill.
Greg
On Sunday, February 26, 2023 at 02:48:02 PM CST, ww_big_al <arknack@...> wrote:
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit. Al ?
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of G K via groups.io Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2023 3:37 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Phase 2 Tool Post ? Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
|
The tee nut is deliberately left large so it can be fitted to your lathe. It is a metric thread on the P-2. I believe it is a M14 but not positive. I can measure mine if you want. It isn’t too hard to mill. You have a wide fitment tolerance for it. You can also file or grind it to fit. Al ?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]> On Behalf Of G K via groups.io Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2023 3:37 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Phase 2 Tool Post ? Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
??? ??? Yea , thats what it's about . SB must have thought it a
worthwhile mod since they used it on the tool room 9" lathes &
also had a no wrench tumbler on the 10" lathes .
??? ??? animal
On 2/26/2023 12:40 PM, ww_big_al wrote:
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I believe this is to convert the fwd/rev
lead screw gears, so you do not require a wrench to loosen the
locking bolt. “newer” SB lathes use a spring plunger like
those on the quick-change gear box.
Al
?
?
Late arrival here. What is the purpose of
the mod?
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
I believe this is to convert the fwd/rev lead screw gears, so you do not require a wrench to loosen the locking bolt. “newer” SB lathes use a spring plunger like those on the quick-change gear box. Al ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
|
Hey Guys,
Just transitioning to my new-to-me Phase 2 tool post on my SB9c.? No way the t-nut that came with it will fit.? I see three options:
1. Re-mill the t-nut that came with the post.? My least preferred option as I am not completely comfortable with my Burke No. 4 yet.
2. Redrill and thread my existing t-nut to fit the Phase 2.? I do not know the thread pitch, and I am thinking it might be metric.? Any ideas on the size/pitch?
3. Make a new post to fit the Phase 2 that matches the thread size and pitch of my current t-nut, and replace the top nut to an imperial thread.? Leaning towards this.
Please share your thoughts, and if you know the specifications of the t-nut thread.
Thanks,
Greg
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
Late arrival here. What is the purpose of the mod?
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
On Fri, Feb 24, 2023 at 09:45 AM, karlw144 wrote:
It’s a pain if you’re using a collet setup, you have to tear it down to open the cover. Just my opinion though.?
karl
Unless yours is radically different then mine, no you don’t. 
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
It’s a pain if you’re using a collet setup, you have to tear it down to open the cover. Just my opinion though.?
karl
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
I’m really not sure why people do this modification. I have a SB13 in addition to my SB9A. ?Yes, it takes slightly longer with the wrench than the lever on the 13. Is it a problem? Not really, these are hobby machines, I can afford the extra 10 seconds it takes with the wrench. YMMV.
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
Hi There,?
I use a sniping site.? I set the amount I want to bid and the snipe
service places the bid within a specified period of time.? In my case,
I have set my snipes to be placed in the last 3 seconds of the auction.
So far, I haven't missed a bid (but I don't always win).? That way, I
don't have to hang around at the end of the auction to place a snipe.
Good Luck!
-Blue Chips-
Webb
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
It’s tough though. It depends on how much you need it. It’s it’s the last thing you need to get a machine going, and you can’t find it anywhere else, it might pay to bid more than you actually think it’s worth just to get the thing done.
I’ve been working on my 10L Heavy for 20 years now. When I bought it, in 1983, it was fine, but I was able to buy several new parts from SB. I kept it in my company to make parts. Then I bought a FOURTEEN for my shop at home. When we sold the company in 2004, I brought the 10L home, hoping to get it in better shape. I’ve been slowly finding parts over these many years. If I find one, I’m willing to pay more than it’s worth just so I can get this back together. But it’s a long slog.
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On Feb 23, 2023, at 4:36 PM, Andrei <calciu1@...> wrote:
?
You have to be careful with auctions because they have a habit of making you pay more than you should.?
I figure the price I am willing to pay, early on. I then bid that amount and go away, never to look back. If I win, I win at the price I set. If I lose, I figure someone else is richer or dumber than me, and I look for the next item of interest.?
At least, that is my crazy plan.??
Full sympathy, Mike. If I'm trying to stick a late bid on ebay (uk) I hit the bid button at least 20 secs before the auction end, or just put
on the max I am willing to pay an hour or so before and go and do something else. I'm not saying 20 secs will work for everybody. Depends on your broad band speed etc. You need to develop your own late bid timing interval. (It once worked so finely for me
that I was accused of being a robot!)
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "mike allen" <animal@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, 23 Feb, 23 At 19:07
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
Nope , I was the high bidder & in the last 60 seconds it went up %$20.00 & it wouldn't let me bid . This is only the second time I've tried/used Ebay & the first time had a couple of problems .
Now I'm racking my brain on how to do it with the factory tumbler . Problem I'm having is that the lathe is not in front of me & now their talking maybe a foot & half more snow by end of week which will probably change my plans to move it to my new shop
.
wah,wah,wah
animal
On 2/23/2023 6:36 AM, Rick wrote:
So Animal, did you win the auction?
|
Re: Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
You have to be careful with auctions because they have a habit of making you pay more than you should.?
I figure the price I am willing to pay, early on. I then bid that amount and go away, never to look back. If I win, I win at the price I set. If I lose, I figure someone else is richer or dumber than me, and I look for the next item of interest.?
At least, that is my crazy plan.??
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Full sympathy, Mike. If I'm trying to stick a late bid on ebay (uk) I hit the bid button at least 20 secs before the auction end, or just put
on the max I am willing to pay an hour or so before and go and do something else. I'm not saying 20 secs will work for everybody. Depends on your broad band speed etc. You need to develop your own late bid timing interval. (It once worked so finely for me
that I was accused of being a robot!)
Eddie
------ Original Message ------
From: "mike allen" <animal@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, 23 Feb, 23 At 19:07
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Reverse tumbler Mod for a 9A
Nope , I was the high bidder & in the last 60 seconds it went up %$20.00 & it wouldn't let me bid . This is only the second time I've tried/used Ebay & the first time had a couple of problems .
Now I'm racking my brain on how to do it with the factory tumbler . Problem I'm having is that the lathe is not in front of me & now their talking maybe a foot & half more snow by end of week which will probably change my plans to move it to my new shop
.
wah,wah,wah
animal
On 2/23/2023 6:36 AM, Rick wrote:
So Animal, did you win the auction?
|
Jim_B
ww_big_al