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SB Restoration Site

 

I'm shifting gears from woodworking to metalworking and have
documented the restoration of my 1941 SB at



I hope that that you all will find this site informative. :^)

Mike


Re: SB Restoration Site

Paul R. Hvidston
 

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Mike,
?
Beautiful site, BEAUTIFUL SB!
?
Just like you, I've poured over the frankenlathe site and others gathering as much info on DIY restoration as I could. When I get a chance, I'll be reviewing your site at a slower pace as I think about what next to do to my 1941 9" SB. I too, have been if not shifting from, augmenting my woodworking with metal working. Nice to have the capability for both. Corian -- now that smacks of a woodworker.
?
I thought I saw a precision level in one of the pictures. Have you set up the lathe yet, and how does it perform, precision-wise? How's the 1/4 HP motor do?
?
Cheers!
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA

I'm shifting gears from woodworking to metalworking and have
documented the restoration of my 1941 SB at



I hope that that you all will find this site informative. :^)

Mike


Re: SB Restoration Site

 

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Paul R. Hvidston" <p.hvidston@i...>
wrote:

Beautiful site, BEAUTIFUL SB!
Thanks Paul.

I thought I saw a precision level in one of the pictures. Have you
set up the lathe yet, and how does it perform, precision-wise? How's
the 1/4 HP motor do?


Yes, that's an 8" Starrett level I used to get the ways leveled-off,
in fact, I think you can also see the test bar I started making in
the same photo. The lathe was off .003 over 6", and after some trial
and error tweaking, I was able to get it down to .001-.0015". (well
within my tolerance level)(and ability)

You know as well as I do, woodworking only uses fractions, and I
don't ever remember using them down to 64ths. Now I have to deal
with thousanths? Sheesh!

The motor is suprisingly strong for it's rating. In fact, its much
larger and heavier than a newer 1/2 hp motor I have. I would swear
that it's a modern day 1/2hp equivalent. Sometimes I make too
agressive of a cut, and the belt tends to slip, but I like that
safety factor. At least I know I won't be burning the motor up.
Maybe it's why it is still going strong after all these years.

I'm glad I found this group,

Mike


Joining the list

Larry Buerer
 

Hi

I'm joining the list. I have a 9" Model A South Bend lathe. According to the
invoice I have in my hand it was purchased from the Carey Machinery Supply
Co. Baltimore, MD on 1/3/47. I purchased it from the original owned a few
years ago in Eureka, CA so it traveled a bit. It is a bench top model about
30" between centers. Length 4 according to the tag on the gearbox. It seems
to be in excellent condition, only a few aluminum chips here and there and a
bit of surface rust (only enough to color a few things brown).

The handle on the cross slide is bent, not the screw, the handle. Is it soft
enough to bend back cold or should I heat it to bend it.

Just for fun, it cost $283 new and the Jacobs chuck with it cost $15.30. The
4-jaw chuck was $34.15.

Have a great day
Larry Buerer


Re: Joining the list

Paul R. Hvidston
 

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Welcome, Larry,
?
We need to see pictures of your SB ;-) That's a Loooong bed you have. Sometimes I wish I had more than 18" between centers, but then I don't have any room in the garage as it is, so I'm content.
?
About the bent CS handle, I'd be worried about cracking it, but heating it would surely discolor it. So who knows. Maybe try bending it just a little and see what happens. I had to straighten out the turnbuckle screws on the belt tensioner on mine. They are soft enough you can just clamp one in the vise and slip a long length of pipe over the end and tweak it.
?
The tail stock ram hand wheel on my SB is?also slightly bent, but its the shaft, so when I tear it down for painting I'll try my hand at straightening the shaft.
?
Cheers!
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA


A bit about your Group Moderator

 

For those of you who do not know me, I am the group moderator. I
started this group last month in hopes of gathering and sharing ideas
about my newly acquired 9" SB Model A.

I am overwhelmed with the turn out. Some great idea and discussions
have already taken place.

I thought it would be a great idea for us to give a little background
about ourselves. I will start out and hope others will follow.

My name is Jim Taylor and I am 39 years old. I live in Nova Scotia,
Canada and have worked for Michelin Tire for over 20 years as a
maintenance troubleshooter and now in spare parts and procurement.

While employed with Michelin, a childhood friend and I started a
Machine and Fabrication shop in 1983. With a staff of between 6 - 8
people, we serviced the majority of manufacturing and processing
plants in our area. We also designed equipment for the manufacturing
industry. I have since sold my interest in the machine shop and now I
am setting up shop again in my basement for fun.

I am hoping to that my experience in running a machine shop and my
current purchasing job can contribute to this group in finding and
souring parts and materials or problem solving.

I would also like to take a moment to thank Paul Hvidston for his
contribution to this group. He has been a great asset in keeping this
group alive. Keep Up The Good Work Paul.

Lets here from all of you.

Jim


Re: SB Restoration Site

 

--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Paul R. Hvidston" <p.hvidston@i...>
wrote:
I'm curious about belt slip. With my current setup, with a
polyurethane belt, I can still grab the chuck or the largest spindle
step and cause the belt to slip. When is too much slip a bad thing?
How soon does your belt start slipping? I also wonder if my belt and
pulleys are starting to get slippery from oil/grease.
Let's just say that when I accidently take too deep of a cut, the
tool bit stops the work, chuck and all, and the leather belt slips
until I turn the motor off and regroup. I have never noticed(heard
or felt since I can't see the belt) it slipping when making normal
cuts or procedures.

Mike


Re: SB Restoration Site

Paul R. Hvidston
 

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I'm curious about belt slip. With my current setup, with a polyurethane belt, I can still grab the chuck or the largest spindle step and cause the belt to slip. When is too much slip a bad thing? How soon does your belt start slipping? I also wonder if my belt and pulleys are starting to get slippery from oil/grease.
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA

----- Original Message -----
that it's a modern day 1/2hp equivalent.? Sometimes I make too
agressive of a cut, and the belt tends to slip, but I like that
safety factor.? At least I know I won't be burning the motor up.?
Maybe it's why it is still going strong after all these years.


Re: SB Restoration Site

 

--- In southbendlathe@y..., west@s... wrote:
--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Paul R. Hvidston" <p.hvidston@i...>
wrote:
I'm curious about belt slip. With my current setup, with a
polyurethane belt, I can still grab the chuck or the largest
spindle
step and cause the belt to slip. When is too much slip a bad thing?
How soon does your belt start slipping? I also wonder if my belt
and
pulleys are starting to get slippery from oil/grease.
Let's just say that when I accidently take too deep of a cut, the
tool bit stops the work, chuck and all, and the leather belt slips
until I turn the motor off and regroup. I have never noticed(heard
or felt since I can't see the belt) it slipping when making normal
cuts or procedures.

Mike
I think that belt slippage is built in short coming of the SB Lathe.
I have busted many a carbide tool bit when the work comes to a stop
due to belt slippage. I do not know the answer to this, but regular
cleaning of the belt with Acetone will help. I have ordered a new
4-ply power transmission belt for mine. I should have it this week.
One of the features of this belt is its low stretch. You can increase
the tension a bit more without a problem. You can also use belt
dressing on the type of belt.

One thing we should keep in mind is the fact that this little lathe
was never designed for modern carbide tools and inserts. We tend to
get a bit aggressive with this tool bits. As the normal cutting speed
of carbide is about 4x faster than HHS. Momentum from the speed and
the superior cutting properties of carbide will give us the feeling we
can take bigger cuts, but the bottom line is, the poor little gear
teeth may not hold out.

Hope my two cents helps.

Jim


Re: A bit about your Group Moderator

Dee Schuyler
 

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?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] A bit about your Group Moderator



?Well Jim, My Name is Dee Schuyler
I am 63 years old, and have been a hobby woodworker all my life.
I just a year or two ago got into metal working, and I?really enjoy??
it. I restore Antique John Deere tractors and really got into metal
working to help with the parts for the tractors. Now I am afraid to tell
you that I do not own a South Bend, But I will one day! I played with my first South Bend in the early fiftys in High School, then while in the?US?Navy aboard a Destroyer my bunk was right next to the Machine Shop and many many nights?I was put to sleep to the sound of that old South Bend,?That was many years ago.
More recently when I decided to try my hand at metalworking?I had a friend with a 10"x54 Atlas I bought it and it is a fine little lathe but i needed for tractor parts a little bigger machine. While searching for a good SouthBend I found a real nice Logan that I could not pass up.
However I am still thinking about South Bend's and if I should come across, Well who knows!??
Now if you wish to kick me off? Well so be it.
Till then enjoying your list,
Dee




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
southbendlathe-unsubscribe@...



Re: A bit about your Group Moderator

 

Dee we would never kick a SB wantabee off of here. We need someone to
tease. LOL

Thanks for your story, keep in touch.
Jim


--- In southbendlathe@y..., "Dee Schuyler" <dee.schuyler@g...> wrote:

----- Original Message -----
From: jwtaylor61@h...
To: southbendlathe@y...
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 5:53 PM
Subject: [southbendlathe] A bit about your Group Moderator




Well Jim, My Name is Dee Schuyler
I am 63 years old, and have been a hobby woodworker all my life.
I just a year or two ago got into metal working, and I really
enjoy
it. I restore Antique John Deere tractors and really got into
metal
working to help with the parts for the tractors. Now I am afraid
to tell
you that I do not own a South Bend, But I will one day! I played
with my first South Bend in the early fiftys in High School, then
while in the US Navy aboard a Destroyer my bunk was right next to the
Machine Shop and many many nights I was put to sleep to the sound of
that old South Bend, That was many years ago.
More recently when I decided to try my hand at metalworking I had
a friend with a 10"x54 Atlas I bought it and it is a fine little lathe
but i needed for tractor parts a little bigger machine. While
searching for a good SouthBend I found a real nice Logan that I could
not pass up.
However I am still thinking about South Bend's and if I should
come across, Well who knows!
Now if you wish to kick me off? Well so be it.
Till then enjoying your list,
Dee




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www.




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
southbendlathe-unsubscribe@...


Re: A bit about your Group Moderator

Paul R. Hvidston
 

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Or someone to buy our cast-offs ;-)
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA

----- Original Message -----
Dee we would never kick a SB wantabee off of here. We need someone to
tease. LOL


Re: Joining the list

 

DO NOT TRY TO BEND IT COLD!!!!
The compound rest handle on my lathe had been broken for as long as I
can remember. (My father took possession when I was 6) The edges had
been rounded off so as not to cut your fingers, but the break still
shows clean 20-30 (40?) years after it was broken.

A new handle was one of the first projects I tackled after she was
put back together after painting.

(Ball ends are a pain)

Dave D'Albertanson




--- In southbendlathe@y..., Larry Buerer <lbuerer@t...> wrote:

Hi

I'm joining the list. I have a 9" Model A South Bend lathe.
According to the
invoice I have in my hand it was purchased from the Carey Machinery
Supply
Co. Baltimore, MD on 1/3/47. I purchased it from the original owned
a few
years ago in Eureka, CA so it traveled a bit. It is a bench top
model about
30" between centers. Length 4 according to the tag on the gearbox.
It seems
to be in excellent condition, only a few aluminum chips here and
there and a
bit of surface rust (only enough to color a few things brown).

The handle on the cross slide is bent, not the screw, the handle.
Is it soft
enough to bend back cold or should I heat it to bend it.

Just for fun, it cost $283 new and the Jacobs chuck with it cost
$15.30. The
4-jaw chuck was $34.15.

Have a great day
Larry Buerer


Introductions

Paul R. Hvidston
 

Hello all. I'm a 43 y/o Southern California Consulting Engineer in the
Internet/desktop/real-time software development area. I'm currently
developing wireless networking for PDAs and notebooks.

On to the fun stuff. Besides electronics, ham radio and music, I've been
doing fine woodworking for over 20 years, wood turning for about 8. I've
added metal working the last couple of years. It started with a Grizzly
7x10, then I picked up a couple of Taigs at an estate sale (an old old Micro
Lathe and a newer Micro Lathe II).

I acquired my dream lathe - a 1941 9x36 SB model A this last December. I
wish I could say that I plan on using the lathe for work, but I just love
learning about old tools and the SB certainly qualifies. The dream started
many years ago with a copy of "How to run a lathe" and several editions of
the Henry Ford Trade School Shop Manual. I love old books too! My wife's an
antique dealer so I get lots of old machining books.

Back to the SB. Mine originally had a roller-bearing headstock w/o
back-gear, but I just installed a standard headstock so I could get slower
speeds with torque. I've got a lot of cleaning, painting and tweaking to do,
but I'm having fun. I put together a quick web page for the lathe and I plan
to formalize it as I get more work done on the lathe.



I've got deadlines so that's all for now. Keep the dialog and sharing going!

Paul R. Hvidston
ACKSYS Engineering
Upland, CA
p.hvidston@...


Re: lubrication

Paul R. Hvidston
 

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You can also use non-detergent motor oil as a substitute a 10W oil is the same as 100 viscosity the. 50W is the same as 500 viscosity. don't know if this conversion was mention before.

From the McMaster-Carr website, you get the following equivalents:
?
SAE 5W == 100 SUS??? (SB Type A)
SAE 10? == 215 SUS??? (SB Type B)
SAE 20 == 315 SUS??? (SB Type C)
?
Could you be off by a factor of about 2?
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA


lubrication

Melvin E. Allen
 

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I've been using 9C for many years and really?had no idea what oil?I should?really be using. The only information I found was to use a 10W machine oil and that's what I've been used.

The lubrication chart that was recently posted was a big help. Now I know what I should be used.

And that got me thinking.

Having been automotive air conditioning mechanic for many years I knew the automotive A/C oil is a 500 viscosity. Further research tells me the standard viscosity used in home and commercial air conditioning systems is 150 to 300 viscosity. All of these oils are highly refined low wax content non-detergent and hold their viscosity through a wide range of temperatures. They can be purchased in small quantities 1 gallon or less at any refrigeration supplier or automotive parts store (R12/134A) only.

Standard oils for the R12, R22, are high quality machine oil .? They are nontoxic and completely safe to use. The oils that I have use have little or no smell a plus?for anyone that has allergies to strong smells like me.

?

Warning do not using the (PAG) oil use for the 134A refrigerants systems. This oil is highly toxic and will take the paint off of any surface it comes in contact with. Do not using it.

Castrol Retro A/C oil used for the? 134A and R12 automotive air conditioning systems is a 500 viscosity oil and is considered safe to use.

Also some air compressor oils are 100 viscosity non-detergent and should be suitable to use.

These oils should be a suitable replacement for the Southbend oils if you can't find the original oils anywhere else.

You can also use non-detergent motor oil as a substitute a 10W oil is the same as 100 viscosity the. 50W is the same as 500 viscosity. don't know if this conversion was mention before.

Do not using multigrade oils or standard motor oils that have detergent in them.

I hope this helps.

Rick


Intro

Jeanie/Carl
 

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First, since I am new at this one, is there an easier way to post a message without emailing it?in, if so, please post.
?
I live in Southeast Texas, I am 50, was introduced to machining back in the 60's at the high school shop.? Marine Corps for a short, worked for one of Texaco's largest refinery's for 13 yrs, laid off in '84 (some of you older ones will remember the down turn in the oil industry), and have been working since '86 for the TX Army National Guard, will soon retire from that - only to find another job (unfortunately retirement pay isn't all that great) no complaints, kept a roof over my head, and most of the time a full belly.
?
Can't rightly remember when I got my little 9"SB, not a machinist by trade, but will be my next career, though, probably until the end.? Really enjoy the machining, also, do wood working as well.
?
Unfortunately, this area is the "oil country" and most surplus/used machinery is large, unlike the common smaller ones (atlas/SB) that can be found up North (envy).
?
Finding the 9" was a stroke of luck, it was an estate sale, a bench model, and it was all in pieces.? Over time have added a double pedestal cabinet, made wood draws for the larger pedestal, just never got around to the other, yet.? The 9" has been under constant refurbishing since I got it.? Believe in keeping it up, and since it is of the type that has non-harden ways, it'll wear fast.? It's nice to have a lathe at home for odd jobs.?
?
Enough.? It is nice to have a group of SB enthusiast.
?
Carl


ABout me Bakersfield CA.

 

Well here? is my info on me?? I am Brett Hurt? age 47?? work for? county Propation department for the last 15 years and hope to retire from the salt mines in 7 years.?? I learned about machine work in the Army when I was a welder there. And thought man this is neat. So after 5 years in the green machine I went to the JC. and learned to be a michinest. Did that? some what but moved on to probation better money.?? About 10 years ago I got entersted in phonographs? but found out that I like to restore them. SO I have a back ground in welding and machine work. I would fix a few make some money buy a tool. So in time, I was over my head and need some machine work found a very nice old guy? with lots of stuff to do my machine work. Then the big ? mark came up (Brett) go get a lathe you neeeeeeeeeeeeed one.? I ask the nice old guy if he knew of any. And sure as that he said, he had a? friend that had a South Bend for sale. I bought him lunch and came home with the 1940? South Bend? got for $500.00 out the door and he had rebuilt it. Been very happy ever since. So on Sundays when I do most of my resto's I get to play with it. I now want a 13 in. Have a enco mill-drill and all the other stuff you need.? If you would like to look at my web site go there ?? Ho I almost for got I have a very sweet wife who lets play in the shop. Some times she will say Brett when did you get this. and I will say? your dad gave it to me.? Ya sure. But I neeeeeeeeeeeeeded it!???


lubrication

R. Allen
 

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?
?
the reference to?oil viscosity came from the modern refrigeration and air conditioning manual.? In the electric motor selection describes using S.A. E. 20 or S.A. E. 30 ( 200 to 300 viscosity ) this book could be wrong of course the WebSite to refer to could also be wrong.? I will look this upin my engineering book and get back to you.
?
Rick
?
?
?
From:??"Paul R. Hvidston" <>
Date:? Thu?Feb?1,?2001?4:49am
Subject:? Re: [southbendlathe] lubrication

You can also use non-detergent motor oil as a substitute a 10W oil is the same as 100 viscosity the. 50W is the same as 500 viscosity. don't know if this conversion was mention before.

From the McMaster-Carr website, you get the following equivalents:
?
SAE 5W == 100 SUS??? (SB Type A)
SAE 10? == 215 SUS??? (SB Type B)
SAE 20 == 315 SUS??? (SB Type C)
?
Could you be off by a factor of about 2?
?
Paul R. Hvidston
Upland, CA


Re: lubrication

 

I have been buying my A, B and C lubrication oil directly from South
Bend. I feel the SB company has been helpful to me in identifying my
lathe's origins and in stocking some of the parts I had to buy for
it, so I (naively?) would like to reward them.

Yes, their prices for the lube oils and everything else are higher
than elsewhere, but my opinion is that it behooves an amateur SB
owner (1935 9" Workshop) like me to make the company feel it is good
business for them to cater to us to a small extent. Many machinery
companies, McMaster-Carr (who sell cheaper oil) for one, do not
really like to do business with amateurs.

My most wishful thought is that be if SB gets enough encouragement
(read business) from people like us they'll bring back the 9" at a
reasonable price, though I'm not holding my breath.

Jay Friedman
Decatur, GA