-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On
Behalf Of Rick Swineford
Sent: January 5, 2024 9:49 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Tach pickup Location

I used magnetic with a magnetic mounting bracket. 1922 SB 15x8. It sat idle
for 40 years in dad's shop.
Sorry for the mess, haven't cleaned up after the last project.
Rick Swineford

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf
Of mike allen
Sent: Wednesday, December 20, 2023 6:01 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] Tach pickup Location

Hey folks , I know some of ya have put Tach's on their 9" lathes . Where did
ya put the pickup ? I'm doin a project/experiment & I will be needin to put a
Tach pickup on my 9A spindle . Rite now I'm leaning towards a magnetic
pickup cause of the size of the sending unit & magnet .

thanks

animal

Looking for some information on a Gisholt chuck.? Tried several other sites, but no luck.? Would be used on my vintage SB9c.? Six Inch diameter.? Photos show very little wear on the jaw faces with no bell-mouthing.? Not really a need, just an opportunity and avaiilable locally.? Please share any knowledge you guys have.

Thanks, and a Happy New Year to all.

Greg

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Louis Vallee
Sent: Wednesday, January 3, 2024 9:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] What is it?

I got this by accidentally. It’s called a center finder or non
magnetic separating rod. It does split and is held together with a
spring in side. Is it related to lathe work and how is it used?
Thank you



From Louis R Vallee

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <[email protected]>
On Behalf Of Louis Vallee
Sent: Wednesday, January 3, 2024 9:02 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [SouthBendLathe] What is it?

I got this by accidentally. It’s called a center finder or non
magnetic separating rod. It does split and is held together with a
spring in side. Is it related to lathe work and how is it used?
Thank you



From Louis R Vallee

I got this by accidentally. It’s called a center finder or non magnetic separating rod. It does split and is held together with a spring in side. Is it related to lathe work and how is it used? Thank you



From Louis R Vallee

On Dec 29, 2023, at 2:45 AM, eddie.draper@... via groups.io <eddie.draper@...> wrote:

?

Apologies, this has gone completely OT.

My interest in gluelam arrived 24 years ago with my wife, who does architectural drawings, the pretty ones for selling to planners and customers. A lot of her work (before retirement, anyway) was for a UK company called Pinelog. They make up market timber lodges for holiday parks etc. and also do all the associated buildings such as swimming pools, and even have lodge parks of their own. This is one of hers.

https://darwinforest.co.uk/facilities/evolution

I'll try being cheeky and ask about their glue, but it might be a trade secret. It certainly looks as though it is waterproof!

Returning to the topic in the title, I appreciate that people on this forum like to restore their lathes to original condition, but the cross slide screw cover for lathes with a TTA needs no precision! It is easy to determine a range of leading dimensions that will suffice. Mine has turned up edges for stiffness, simply because the offcut I found was just wide enough to permit this. The anti rotation bolt is something the head of which just about fitted the slot (a 10mm Allan screw) with just a tad ground (by hand) off the sides. And while the lathe might look dog rough by your standards, so far as I have been able to determine, the slideways are completely unworn since it was refurbished by Sentinel (the steam lorry works, later Rolls Royce truck Diesels) at Shrewsbury in 1961. It turns parallel all the way to the chuck. Just wish I could get hold of an equally good 3 jaw for the same price as the lathe! (?0, apart from a 5 mile haul in my car trailer). Furthermore, it is lucky to not be at the bottom of the Atlantic ocean along with the ship bringing it to the UK in 1943.

Cheers,

Eddie

------ Original Message ------
From: "Lou" <lhm@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Friday, 29 Dec, 23 At 01:03
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Wow! I had no idea -- wish I could visit it. What kind of glue was used in that structure? Must have had significant influence on longevity :)

(I've also been a fan of the Norwegian "stave churches" most of my life -- they're a living history of "survivable" wood construction technique, especially its errors...)

Thanks for the suggestion.

Lou

On Dec 28, 2023 14:58, "eddie.draper@... via groups.io" <eddie.draper@...> wrote:

Lou, if you're interested in Glue Laminated wood, are you familiar with Manchester Oxford road station? See

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manchester_Oxford_Road_railway_station

Eddie

------ Original Message ------
From: "Lou" <lhm@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 19:18
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs). A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat. Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too! :)

Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing. British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood. He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it." I so affirm. But glued wood is joyful!

On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down this road before .

thanks

animal

On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:

Kydex(R) is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic much beloved by DIY sheath makers. (A square foot of .080" sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.) It forms nicely in hot (375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.

Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum cleaner. Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric pressure until it conforms to the taper-attachment-plus-magnets. Use the heat gun to control and "encourage" the area of deformation. When it fits closely enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size (I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover. It snaps on, sheds swarf, and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring application of precision measurement tools ... although now's a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc. -- Just sayin'.

In the boatyard where I grew up, we always reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates. Well, if we'd had Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering. Those were the days ...

On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal.

Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?

On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:

Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?

Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)

Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :)

On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well.

Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?

------ Original Message ------
From: "Mike Poore" <mpoore10@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Saturday, 30 Dec, 23 At 03:27
Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Thanks for the ideas everyone. I should be able to make something that will work for me. My goal is to save time cleaning up my mess along with avoiding anything that is not reversible.

Eddie: Some day they may be looking for all that gear in the Atlantic like they do gold today. They have been fishing old war planes out of Lake Michigan for restoration over the last few decades.

On 12/29/2023 4:45 AM, eddie.draper@... via groups.io wrote:

Apologies, this has gone completely OT.

My interest in gluelam arrived 24 years ago with my wife, who does architectural drawings, the pretty ones for selling to planners and customers. A lot of her work (before retirement, anyway) was for a UK company called Pinelog. They make up market timber lodges for holiday parks etc. and also do all the associated buildings such as swimming pools, and even have lodge parks of their own. This is one of hers.

I'll try being cheeky and ask about their glue, but it might be a trade secret. It certainly looks as though it is waterproof!

Returning to the topic in the title, I appreciate that people on this forum like to restore their lathes to original condition, but the cross slide screw cover for lathes with a TTA needs no precision! It is easy to determine a range of leading dimensions that will suffice. Mine has turned up edges for stiffness, simply because the offcut I found was just wide enough to permit this. The anti rotation bolt is something the head of which just about fitted the slot (a 10mm Allan screw) with just a tad ground (by hand) off the sides. And while the lathe might look dog rough by your standards, so far as I have been able to determine, the slideways are completely unworn since it was refurbished by Sentinel (the steam lorry works, later Rolls Royce truck Diesels) at Shrewsbury in 1961. It turns parallel all the way to the chuck. Just wish I could get hold of an equally good 3 jaw for the same price as the lathe! (?0, apart from a 5 mile haul in my car trailer). Furthermore, it is lucky to not be at the bottom of the Atlantic ocean along with the ship bringing it to the UK in 1943.

Cheers,

Eddie

------ Original Message ------ From: "Lou" <lhm@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Friday, 29 Dec, 23 At 01:03 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Wow! I had no idea -- wish I could visit it. What kind of glue was used in that structure? Must have had significant influence on longevity :)

(I've also been a fan of the Norwegian "stave churches" most of my life -- they're a living history of "survivable" wood construction technique, especially its errors...)

Thanks for the suggestion.

Lou

On Dec 28, 2023 14:58, "eddie.draper@... via groups.io" <eddie.draper@...> wrote:

Lou, if you're interested in Glue Laminated wood, are you familiar with Manchester Oxford road station? See

Eddie

------ Original Message ------ From: "Lou" <lhm@...> To: [email protected] Sent: Thursday, 28 Dec, 23 At 19:18 Subject: Re: [SouthBendLathe] Cover for Cross Slide and/or Ways

Vacuum is an extremely versatile technique -- in fact, the use of vacuum to "clamp" glued laminates is one of the main reasons that wood is still used to build high-strength boat hulls (and machinable forms, and low-cost drones, and narc subs). A vacuum pump, a plastic tarp, some duct tape, spruce shavings and epoxy glue -- instant transoceanic boat. Spruce has a better strength/weight ratio than any other affordable material except maybe carbon fiber ... and all the joy of making mud-pies too! :)

Yes, I started down this road back when WeldWood(R) phenolic resin was the best waterproof glue we could get -- i.e., a decade before epoxy was a Thing. British designer Uffa Fox made WWII aircraft out of glued laminate wood. He has been quoted as saying: "Fibreglas is like artificial insemination -- it works, but there's no joy in it." I so affirm. But glued wood is joyful!

On Dec 28, 2023 13:53, mike allen <animal@...> wrote:

I like that vacuum approach , sounds like ya been down this road before .

thanks

animal

On 12/28/23 3:54 AM, Lou wrote:

Kydex(R) is an inexpensive thermoformable plastic much beloved by DIY sheath makers. (A square foot of .080" sheet costs around $6 on Amazon.) It forms nicely in hot (375°F) air from a hobbyist heat gun or a corn popper.

Put your taper attachment down on a flat surface with a few magnets stuck to it and carefully duct-tape a sheet of Kydex over it so no air can get under it except via a single 3/8" or 1/2" tube hooked up to (e.g.) your vacuum cleaner. Pull a gradual gentle vacuum under the Kydex, apply hot air to the top, and it will deform under atmospheric pressure until it conforms to the taper-attachment-plus-magnets. Use the heat gun to control and "encourage" the area of deformation. When it fits closely enough, disassemble the vacuum rig and trim the Kydex to size (I usually resort to my Dremel). Finally, epoxy the magnets into their vacuum-formed recessed on the underside of your Brand-New Taper Attachment Cover. It snaps on, sheds swarf, and looks intentional ;) without actually requiring application of precision measurement tools ... although now's a convenient moment to use a similar set-up to make little nests for your calipers and mics and collets and chucks, etc. -- Just sayin'.

In the boatyard where I grew up, we always reminded each other to be careful not to let the Yacht Owner see how low-tech we actually were, for fear it would make him indisposed to pay our exorbitant rates. Well, if we'd had Kydex in those days we would have built his dinghy out of it and never told him how it was really done -- but we would have charged plenty, you betcha, and pretended it was all done by Controlled Molecular-Level Engineering. Those were the days ...

On Dec 28, 2023 00:25, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I did something similar on another lathe using a rubber mat. The downside was chips stuck to the magnet, but not a big deal. Never heard of Kydex until your reply, so I learned something regardless. Is that the material they use for cutting boards? Is there a cheap item commonly sold made of it that I could experiment?

On 12/27/2023 11:43 PM, Lou wrote:

Sheet Kydex, heated and shaped and cut to suit, with three or four rare-earth magnets artfully glued to it where they will match to the taper attachment? Or sheet acrylic, if you want transparency...?

Yes. I know, it's quick and dirty but it will keep the debris off and you won't be heartbroken if it falls on the floor ... oh yes, and it isn't likely to scratch the ways :)

Yes, I have several shields I made this way and I still love them. :) :)

On Dec 27, 2023 21:45, Mike Poore <mpoore10@...> wrote:

I have a SB9A with taper attachment. I would like to fashion a cover for the cross slide and taper attachment as it seems like the most time consuming area to clean. There does not seem to be an obvious way to attach covers without some hole drilling, which I prefer as a last resort. The cross slide screw is most annoying to clean, but the taper attachment as a whole is a pain. Removing it when not using the taper attachment is the obvious solution, but I would like to avoid that as well. Does anyone have photos of how they deal with chip control?