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Re: Epoch 12V 460Ah LFP battery on Sabre 362?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAllison, ? Great suggestions.? That was essentially what the underwriter I spoke to indicated: they wanted to know / see how the installation was made.? A ¡°professional¡± detailed report / description of what was done, on letterhead of the installer.? A clear diagram should help the process.? He said some people had submitted handwritten notes.? ? On the downside, he also said there are no standards, to which I mentioned ABYC E-13.? ?He sort of ignored that, only later to say ABYC had not come up with standards and maybe they would in another year...? He admitted he had a mental block on electronics and was much more comfortable with physical engineering issues.? One assumes there are other underwriters who are comfortable with electronics, and hopefully one of those people gets your file.? Sort of like building inspectors; there are good ones, and ones you never want to get when they are having a bad day.? ? I seem to recall you had some not so complementary comments on Mastervolt, though not certain if that was some customer¡¯s poor experience, and if that included their LFP batteries or other equipment?? Might be better to take that off list if you prefer. ? Thanks, Brian ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Allison Lehman via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2025 11:43 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Epoch 12V 460Ah LFP battery on Sabre 362? ? One more comment to add. ?There are ABYC standards for LFP. ?I suggest those of you who have LFP already, if professionally done, get drawing by your installer. ?If it is a DIY find some one to draw them for you. This way you are a step ahead of the insurance company in two ways. ?First off many think there are no standards so lets raise the premium and secondly there are some who reject it completely because they thing it isn¡¯t safe. ?By drawing their attention to the ABYC standards not only will you educate them but you might even get (or not lose) your insurance.
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Use a small very sharp profile scraper and gently work at it. As latitude said, tedious work. I noticed on mine there are numerous valleys running directly adjacent to the toe rail from overly aggressive scraping previously done which I aggravated to some extent when I stripped the rails a few years back. Sloppy taping (and inadvertent sags) leads to a large shelf of varnish sitting on top of the vinyl ?fillet which is a bugger to scrape neatly without damage to the vinyl. Same applies to the outboard side of the rail. Once done mind the taping carefully. I flat out refuse to attempt varnish work of any kind, taping, scraping, sanding, or applying without complete walk around staging set up around the whole boat and the lower life line removed. As a true craftsmen/mentor of mine taught me 5 decades ago, ¡°The quality of the work depends on the comfort of the craftsman.¡±, and I still need all the help I can get. :(
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Peter Metcalf Pfmet@... Sabre 28 #312 Serenade Noank, CT |
Re: Epoch 12V 460Ah LFP battery on Sabre 362?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOne more comment to add. ?There are ABYC standards for LFP. ?I suggest those of you who have LFP already, if professionally done, get drawing by your installer. ?If it is a DIY find some one to draw them for you. This way you are a step ahead of the insurance company in two ways. ?First off many think there are no standards so lets raise the premium and secondly there are some who reject it completely because they thing it isn¡¯t safe. ?By drawing their attention to the ABYC standards not only will you educate them but you might even get (or not lose) your insurance.Allison Lehman Swiftsure Yachts allison@... Cell: 510.912.5800 Fax: 510.860.4640
-- Allison S426 Kingfisher SF Bay/Pacifc Northwest |
I was able to clean mine using a small home made scraper and sandpaper.? Tedious work but looks so much better. On Tue, Apr 15, 2025, 9:30?AM Tom Malone via <tgm98368=[email protected]> wrote:
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Thank you, your knowledge is so helpful. I agree, if that is part of the rubrail extrusion I shouldn't mess with it and try hard to clean mine up. I'll start with Barkeepers Friend and then use careful heat and then possibly chemical stripper to remove the varnish drips.
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Thanks,
Tom Malone
Sabre 362 #173
Port Townsend, WA
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Re: Refrigerator insulation
For what?it's worth, we installed a Frigoboat Keel Cooler refrigeration unit?in 2023. No alteration to the insulation of the 41-year old ice box. We set yjr temp to 40? and?it maintains a steady temperature all the time. Freezer compartment can keep ice cream! -- Gerald (Jerry) Brecher SIRACH 1982 Sabre 38 MkI,? Now lying Coruna, Spain Sailing?home to Gloucester, MA this summer 488 Pleasant Street North Andover, MA 01845 USA mobile: 617-510-5133 |
As Peter said the "fillet" you describe is probably part of the bathtub, which seals the hull/deck
joint & is part of the rub rail. I would leave it alone, the toe rail needs to be removed to replace it.
Mine is not in great shape either, but I think messing with it would only make it worse.
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Phil Horn S34 #67 Huntington, LI, NY |
Re: Enlarging the mastgate
Hi Stephanie-
There may be a piece of an old broken bolt that is protruding enough to block the track from sliding freely. My track had been repaired in the past by putting in a new bolt adjacent to a broken bolt in 2 or 3 spots. I drilled the stubs of those bolts down a bit to ensure clearance.?
Joe
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Joe Cleary Kestrel? -??S36 #54? -??Boston |
Re: Epoch 12V 460Ah LFP battery on Sabre 362?
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýBill, ? I spoke with an insurance underwriter at my insurance carrier and they will cover LFP conversions, on a case by case basis, though do have some base line requirements: US battery manufacturer and ¡°quality¡± [my phrasing] US installation.? They do not, as of yet, require ABYC certified installers.? He / they have seen some nightmare situations of ¡°drop in¡± LFP installations with very poor general boat maintenance, the classic house wiring with wire nuts, unsupported wires, etc. on 30+ yo boats not designed / built to handle the much higher electrical loads of today. ??I mentioned that I doubted any ¡°US¡± LFP battery was entirely US manufactured, importing parts to be assembled, and he was non-committal.? There also would be a premium increase due to LFP being onboard.? They are concerned with the limited track record of these batteries being installed in the marine environment, with salt exposure and near constant motion, which in their collective mind, increases the potential risks of these batteries.? ? So worth a call to your insurance company. ? Brian ? From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Bill Graves via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2025 1:40 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Epoch 12V 460Ah LFP battery on Sabre 362? ? Brian, thank you for reminding me to check with insurance on LFP conversion and for the other tips.? I need to do some more reading and checking. ? Dave, I hear you about single point of failure. Two lighter batteries is also attractive. Bill G ? On Sun, Apr 13, 2025 at 5:14?AM Nauset Beach via <nausetbeach=[email protected]> wrote:
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Not positive about the 362, however if the deck joint detail is similar to earlier Sabres that ¡°fillet¡± may be part of vinyl section running under the toe rail and including the outer rub rail. Have no real idea of what the consequence of removing that would be but it would involve a razor knife, and certainly not something I¡¯d entertain.
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Peter Metcalf
Pfmet@... Sabre 28 #312 Serenade Noank, CT ? |
I am stripping and varnishing all the brightwork on my 362 and am considering removing the factory installed plastic fillet where the caprail meets the deck. It's a mess after years of use and several prior efforts to varnish without good clean-up. I imagine that it's opening up a can of worms so I thought I'd ask you folks what you've discovered if you've done this work yourselves? Was it bonded with 5200? Remove with a heatgun or chemical stripper?
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Thanks,
Tom Malone
Sabre 362 #173
Port Townsend, WA |
Re: Enlarging the mastgate
Hi All,
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Continuing this thread as I don¡¯t recall another on a related subject. I ordered the tides track and due to Joe Cleary¡¯s suggestion tried removing the top of the mast which worked better than expected. ? So next challenge was getting the screws out of the track. ?All were firmly mounted but came loose except the longer screw in the very top track which had to be removed via an extraction tool. ?That was successful today! ?
So I thought the rest would be easy( oh but it¡¯s a boat project.) ?The top section moves only about 1/8¡± up and down. I¡¯ve checked the paint and run the knife blade down each side with no real catches.?
I don¡¯t see a build up of paint and the mast appears clean inside and out, please tell me there isn¡¯t some kind of nut behind the original track? ?How does the track remove??
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Stephanie
Moderator Sabre 36, #67 |
Re: Datamarine Anemometer- wind speed cups aren't moving
Further to my last reply and now I have a little more time, I wouldn't go wireless. We see far to many problems with both the Raymarine and B&G versions. Signals coming down from the old DMI MHU are analog voltages, nothing digital about it and the current Raymarine Short Vane MHU takes the same approach - which I like. Absolutely no compatibility between Datamarine & Raymarine though. I totally agree about keeping the wind display separate. I really don't like the presentation on an Axiom, too busy, like the B&G Triton displays and worse the B&G sailsteer overlay on the Zeus/Vulcan chartplotters which blocks out anything close to you on the screen.
The P79 50/200Khz Shoot thru the hull Txdcr will work well for traditional sonar with a transducer cable that has a DSM/CP370 style plug and then connected to the Axiom using an A80489 Adaptor cable? - as long as the hull is solid glass and not cored.
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Pete Waterson ¡°°ä³ó²¹°ù»å´Ç²Ô²Ô²¹²â¡± S38-2 Oriental, NC |
Re: Refrigerator insulation
I'm following up on this project from Jan of 2024, as I'm starting to upgrade my 35 year old refrigeration!
I've read the previous comments from Jay & Carter as well as the original from Matt. Do either of you have any insight into how thick the existing original insulation is ?
I've drilled some test holes & seem to find as much as 3 inches between the refrig shell and the hull, without much room for additional insulation. My boat is a 1988 38' MK II, so manufacturing processes will likely have changed over the course of time.
Carter, if you're still lurking around what did you find ? & how much of the insulation were you able to inject ?
Thanks and Regards?
Mike
s/v Ladylike?
88 38' MK II
Oriental NC |
Re: Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWhile it often sounds like an infomercial, the latest video from Sailing Uma does have some information on solar panel construction and some innovative ideas from a new company. For those considering flexible panels, it is probably worth the 20 minutes or so to watch. |
On Apr 14, 2025, at 7:10?AM, David Lochner via groups.io <davelochner@...> wrote:Don¡¯s photo of the dodger clearly shows why panels should be oriented fore and aft. In that photo if the panels were oriented athwartship both panels would be shaded with their production severely curtailed by the boom¡¯s shadow. If they are aligned fore and aft, only one panel would be affected.DaveSecond StarS362 #113Fair Haven, NY/Lake OntarioOn Apr 14, 2025, at 5:56?AM, Nauset Beach via groups.io <nausetbeach@...> wrote:Hi Don,?I have read some people have used 4 mm polycarbonate as a backing and asked Ocean Planet about it, even going to 6 mm. ?They said not to do it and further they would not honor a warranty [5 years] claim if any panel were placed across a support frame.? The reason being as Dave mentioned, the repeated flexing over a hard point can damage the cells and wiring connections.? The manual for Solbian SP panels actually warns against doing that:??¡°Canvas Installation - If installing on canvas, do not run any panels over a support bar. This was previously done with polycarbonate backing, but experience has shown that the solar panels can still be damaged by pressure from a crossbar.¡±???Using Starboard would probably flex less than polycarbonate, especially anchored to the support frame under the canvas.? I have only used 1¡± Starboard and that is not bending.? Would ?¡± Starboard adopt the various curves on top of the frame like the masonite?? Am not seeing how the zippers in the canvas to attach to the frame could be modified and still maintain adequate tension on the canvas across the full bimini frame.? [Possibly due to the coffee not kicking in yet.]? Would have thought having partial zippers vs. running the full length of the support frame would create uneven tension, but maybe not.???I looked at the Custom Marine but my fore / aft maximum length is 41¡±that will still fit inside the support frames, though that would go over the center support.???Please post more photos as your project progresses.???Thanks,BrianEscapade S426CT / LIS?From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>?On Behalf Of?Oceans via?
Sent:?Sunday, April 13, 2025 10:08 PM
To:?[email protected]
Subject:?Re: [SabreSailboat] Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay??Brian,Attached are the photos of my masonite templates for solar panel backing plate plates. ?Four photos show the templates mounted on top of the Bimini. ?Note the problems with gaps between the canvas and the template. ?One photo shows the template mounted under the Bimini and over the center ridge pipe, and one photo shows a template (simulating a solar panels) mounted directly over the backing plate under the Bimini in the previous photo. ?This is the plan I will use. ?The tech guy at Custom Marine Products thinks it¡¯s an excellent idea and gave it his blessing, for whatever that¡¯s worth. ?My local canvass guy likes it too, and says modification to the center pipe zipper can be done at reasonable cost.As previously stated I plan to make the actual backing plates out of 1/4¡± StarBoard with the edges rounded off because I think it is much better suited to the marine environment. I will mount the backing plates and the panels with appropriate length 10x24 bolts a washers in the fashion of the bolt kit available through Custom Marine Products. ?I will also have some grommets and 2¡± squares of reinforcing canvass add to the bolt holes, again at minimal cost.Don FlemingDuetS-38-1 #77Hudson River