Re: Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay
Thanks Dave, good information and suggestions.? Recall you mentioning quite a while back to use the open circuit, but thought it was the current not voltage.? The Voc of the larger panels is 17.5V so borderline for a VE controller, while smaller panels is 11.6V so would need to put them in series with something, either each other or paired with a larger panel.? Given your recent experience it may be best to do the latter to separate port / starboard with different controllers.? ? Some on the list have used other controllers, Genasun is one name I recall.? I did come across a Genasun Boost that may be an alternative.? Anyone familiar or have experience with them?? ? I sent an inquiry to OPE about the panels I am considering and will get their thoughts as well.? I had not gotten to wire gauge yet.? Given the relatively low levels do want to limit loss as much as possible.? ? Thanks, Brian ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of David Lochner via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2025 10:33 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay? At the power level you are considering, just use 10ga wire and consider it a day. The ampacity rating for 10 ga is 60a, well above the amperage for the all of the panels combined. For a 3% loss 10 ga is good for about 60 roundtrip feet at 10 amps. Most of the time your panels will be well below 10 amps. The spec to look at for the controller question is the Open Circuit Voltage. The higher the Voc the sooner the panel will start producing power or stated another way the more power it will produce in low light conditions, early morning, late afternoon, and overcast conditions. The 5v limit Victron has is less of an issue with high efficiency panels. Wiring the panels in series will bring the voltage above Victron’s threshold sooner at the cost of increasing vulnerability to shading. Shading is not as simple or consistent as it might seem. A few weeks ago I wrote about seeing no difference between panels on the port and starboard sides of the split backstay with an aft radar pole. A few weeks later in a different location I’m seeing a much larger difference ?depending on which way the boat is sitting on its mooring and the sun’s angle. It might be worth considering having the 2 larger panels on independent controllers and the 2 smaller panels wired in series.? ? Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario ? On Apr 12, 2025, at 5:53?PM, Nauset Beach via groups.io <nausetbeach@...> wrote: ? As the original poster of this thread back on 2/28 I also want to thank everyone for their helpful comments.? [A PC blue screen of death killed my laptop shortly after posting, then other events delayed continuing the thought process.? This past week the deck cleared sufficiently.]?? My challenge has been finding panels that would lay on the canvas and fit in the available space: aft of the split backstay, not block a sight window to check on the main trim in the forward section, and to not have a panel lay across the middle support of the bimini.? Have attached a photo.? Do not want a frame above the bimini.? I believe a combination of 4 Solbian panels [2 x 82W and 2 x 54W, one of each on each side of the bimini] providing a nominal 272W is the best I can do.? These are the only panels I have found with dimensions that will fit in the available space.? Am trying to use stock panels and beat any additional tariffs, so custom panels are out of the equation.? To use a Victron controller my understanding is the voltage has to exceed the battery by 5+V, and to make certain of that each pair would need to be wired in series and then to separate port and starboard controllers.? From my reading series wiring add volts but keeps the current at the lowest of the panels in the series.? A question: is the current the “open circuit” current on the spec sheet for the panel or the “maximum power point” current on the specs?? These panels both have open circuit (Isc) of 6A but their maximum power current is 4.5A and 6.8A, so will wiring them in series work at 6A or be reduced to the 4.5A, reducing the potential charging capacity of the array???? An alternative might be to wire the 2 larger 82W panels together in series and the 2 smaller 54W together, then to the controllers.?? Any comments / suggestions are appreciated.? My sincere thanks to all who contributed to the posts Solar Panel posts below. ?They have been very helpful in my decisions to build a system for my boat. ?One area that remains a bit of a mystery to me is how much solar wattage is safe and appropriate for a given amount of house bank Ah and daily draw. ?Specifically, my 12v system consists of a 500Ah AGM house bank with a 92% SOH which yields an actual 460Ah. ?My calculated daily usage is 100Ah/day at anchor and 115Ah/day sailing. ?The goal is to be independent of alternator (Balmar 100A with 614 voltage regulator) charging for 4-5 days or longer. ?Two seperate options are under consideration. ? Both include 3 SunPower Monocrystalline - Shade Tolerant Semi-flexible panels mounted on the Bimini and dodger totaling either 465 or 395 Watts.? The 465 Watt option produces 214.5Ah/day for a 5-6 hour ideal solar day, and with a partially cloudy day reduction of 70%, it produces 150Ah/day. ?The 395 Watt option procduces 181.5 Ah/day with 127 Ah/day (same 70% reduction) under partly cloudy conditions. ?Each of the three panels will be connected to separate Victron MPPT controllers. My understanding is that excess wattage is sent back to the panels by the controllers in the form of heat energy. ?Is this correct or am I missing something?? How much solar power is too much for the above configuration? ?Is there a concern regarding excess heat due to the excess wattage, especially in full sun high temperature days? ?Is there a concern for damage to the canvass due to excess heat? Any comments would be greatly appreciated. <Bimini.JPG>
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Re: Sabre 38 Mk2 rod rigging open style turnbuckles
Correction 7/16” not 9/16”
--
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
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Re: Epoch 12V 460Ah LFP battery on Sabre 362?
With only one battery there is a single point of failure, if that battery should fail then the only battery left is the smaller start battery. Two smaller batteries would offer redundancy and might be a better physical fit.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 11:48?PM, Bill Graves via groups.io <elfowl77@...> wrote:
Hi all, I've been holding off on LFP battery conversion but the tariff thing is alarming so I'm considering the substantial purchase of an Epoch?12V 460Ah V2 Elite Series battery? for our 362.? Does anyone know if this particular Group D size battery fits under the starboard berth?? This battery is quite a bit taller than the Group 31s I have in there now (and I'm away from the boat and can't measure).? I realize there's more to LFP conversion than swapping the battery. Thanks,
Bill Graves 2003 S362 #261 'Souwester' Marblehead, MA
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Epoch 12V 460Ah LFP battery on Sabre 362?
Hi all, I've been holding off on LFP battery conversion but the tariff thing is alarming so I'm considering the substantial purchase of an Epoch?12V 460Ah V2 Elite Series battery? for our 362.? Does anyone know if this particular Group D size battery fits under the starboard berth?? This battery is quite a bit taller than the Group 31s I have in there now (and I'm away from the boat and can't measure).? I realize there's more to LFP conversion than swapping the battery. Thanks,
Bill Graves 2003 S362 #261 'Souwester' Marblehead, MA
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Re: Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay
Hi Don, addressing just the possibility of excess power being returned as heat energy, I don't believe this is the case. Power = current X voltage.? The controller limits the current so that the panels can be at full voltage but as little as zero current, ie zero power to the battery or into waste heat.? The efficiency would be dreadful if it converted excess power to heat. Bill Graves 2003 S362 #261 'Souwester' Marblehead, MA
My sincere thanks to all who contributed to the posts Solar Panel posts below.? They have been very helpful in my decisions to build a system for my boat.? One area that remains a bit of a mystery to me is how much solar wattage is safe and appropriate for a given amount of house bank Ah and daily draw.? Specifically, my 12v system consists of a 500Ah AGM house bank with a 92% SOH which yields an actual 460Ah.? My calculated daily usage is 100Ah/day at anchor and 115Ah/day sailing.? The goal is to be independent of alternator (Balmar 100A with 614 voltage regulator) charging for 4-5 days or longer.? Two seperate options are under consideration. ? Both include 3 SunPower Monocrystalline - Shade Tolerant Semi-flexible panels mounted on the Bimini and dodger totaling either 465 or 395 Watts.? The 465 Watt option produces 214.5Ah/day for a 5-6 hour ideal solar day, and with a partially cloudy day reduction of 70%, it produces 150Ah/day.? The 395 Watt option procduces 181.5 Ah/day with 127 Ah/day (same 70% reduction) under partly cloudy conditions.? Each of the three panels will be connected to separate Victron MPPT controllers.
My understanding is that excess wattage is sent back to the panels by the controllers in the form of heat energy.? Is this correct or am I missing something??
How much solar power is too much for the above configuration?? Is there a concern regarding excess heat due to the excess wattage, especially in full sun high temperature days?? Is there a concern for damage to the canvass due to excess heat?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Don Fleming
Duet
S-38-1 #77
Hudson River
?
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Re: Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay
At the power level you are considering, just use 10ga wire and consider it a day. The ampacity rating for 10 ga is 60a, well above the amperage for the all of the panels combined. For a 3% loss 10 ga is good for about 60 roundtrip feet at 10 amps. Most of the time your panels will be well below 10 amps.
The spec to look at for the controller question is the Open Circuit Voltage. The higher the Voc the sooner the panel will start producing power or stated another way the more power it will produce in low light conditions, early morning, late afternoon, and overcast conditions. The 5v limit Victron has is less of an issue with high efficiency panels. Wiring the panels in series will bring the voltage above Victron’s threshold sooner at the cost of increasing vulnerability to shading. Shading is not as simple or consistent as it might seem. A few weeks ago I wrote about seeing no difference between panels on the port and starboard sides of the split backstay with an aft radar pole. A few weeks later in a different location I’m seeing a much larger difference ?depending on which way the boat is sitting on its mooring and the sun’s angle.
It might be worth considering having the 2 larger panels on independent controllers and the 2 smaller panels wired in series.?
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 5:53?PM, Nauset Beach via groups.io <nausetbeach@...> wrote:
As the original poster of this thread back on 2/28 I also want to thank everyone for their helpful comments.? [A PC blue screen of death killed my laptop shortly after posting, then other events delayed continuing the thought process.? This past week the deck cleared sufficiently.]?? ? My challenge has been finding panels that would lay on the canvas and fit in the available space: aft of the split backstay, not block a sight window to check on the main trim in the forward section, and to not have a panel lay across the middle support of the bimini.? Have attached a photo.? Do not want a frame above the bimini.? I believe a combination of 4 Solbian panels [2 x 82W and 2 x 54W, one of each on each side of the bimini] providing a nominal 272W is the best I can do.? These are the only panels I have found with dimensions that will fit in the available space.? Am trying to use stock panels and beat any additional tariffs, so custom panels are out of the equation.? ? To use a Victron controller my understanding is the voltage has to exceed the battery by 5+V, and to make certain of that each pair would need to be wired in series and then to separate port and starboard controllers.? From my reading series wiring add volts but keeps the current at the lowest of the panels in the series.? A question: is the current the “open circuit” current on the spec sheet for the panel or the “maximum power point” current on the specs?? These panels both have open circuit (Isc) of 6A but their maximum power current is 4.5A and 6.8A, so will wiring them in series work at 6A or be reduced to the 4.5A, reducing the potential charging capacity of the array???? ? An alternative might be to wire the 2 larger 82W panels together in series and the 2 smaller 54W together, then to the controllers.?? ? Any comments / suggestions are appreciated.? ? Thanks, Brian Escapade? S426 ? ? My sincere thanks to all who contributed to the posts Solar Panel posts below. ?They have been very helpful in my decisions to build a system for my boat. ?One area that remains a bit of a mystery to me is how much solar wattage is safe and appropriate for a given amount of house bank Ah and daily draw. ?Specifically, my 12v system consists of a 500Ah AGM house bank with a 92% SOH which yields an actual 460Ah. ?My calculated daily usage is 100Ah/day at anchor and 115Ah/day sailing. ?The goal is to be independent of alternator (Balmar 100A with 614 voltage regulator) charging for 4-5 days or longer. ?Two seperate options are under consideration. ? Both include 3 SunPower Monocrystalline - Shade Tolerant Semi-flexible panels mounted on the Bimini and dodger totaling either 465 or 395 Watts.? The 465 Watt option produces 214.5Ah/day for a 5-6 hour ideal solar day, and with a partially cloudy day reduction of 70%, it produces 150Ah/day. ?The 395 Watt option procduces 181.5 Ah/day with 127 Ah/day (same 70% reduction) under partly cloudy conditions. ?Each of the three panels will be connected to separate Victron MPPT controllers. My understanding is that excess wattage is sent back to the panels by the controllers in the form of heat energy. ?Is this correct or am I missing something?? How much solar power is too much for the above configuration? ?Is there a concern regarding excess heat due to the excess wattage, especially in full sun high temperature days? ?Is there a concern for damage to the canvass due to excess heat? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay
As the original poster of this thread back on 2/28 I also want to thank everyone for their helpful comments.? [A PC blue screen of death killed my laptop shortly after posting, then other events delayed continuing the thought process.? This past week the deck cleared sufficiently.]? ? My challenge has been finding panels that would lay on the canvas and fit in the available space: aft of the split backstay, not block a sight window to check on the main trim in the forward section, and to not have a panel lay across the middle support of the bimini.? Have attached a photo.? Do not want a frame above the bimini.? I believe a combination of 4 Solbian panels [2 x 82W and 2 x 54W, one of each on each side of the bimini] providing a nominal 272W is the best I can do.? These are the only panels I have found with dimensions that will fit in the available space.? Am trying to use stock panels and beat any additional tariffs, so custom panels are out of the equation. ? To use a Victron controller my understanding is the voltage has to exceed the battery by 5+V, and to make certain of that each pair would need to be wired in series and then to separate port and starboard controllers.? From my reading series wiring add volts but keeps the current at the lowest of the panels in the series.? A question: is the current the “open circuit” current on the spec sheet for the panel or the “maximum power point” current on the specs?? These panels both have open circuit (Isc) of 6A but their maximum power current is 4.5A and 6.8A, so will wiring them in series work at 6A or be reduced to the 4.5A, reducing the potential charging capacity of the array??? ? An alternative might be to wire the 2 larger 82W panels together in series and the 2 smaller 54W together, then to the controllers.? ? Any comments / suggestions are appreciated. ? Thanks, Brian Escapade? S426 ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Oceans via groups.io
Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2025 2:23 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [SabreSailboat] Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay? My sincere thanks to all who contributed to the posts Solar Panel posts below. ?They have been very helpful in my decisions to build a system for my boat. ?One area that remains a bit of a mystery to me is how much solar wattage is safe and appropriate for a given amount of house bank Ah and daily draw. ?Specifically, my 12v system consists of a 500Ah AGM house bank with a 92% SOH which yields an actual 460Ah. ?My calculated daily usage is 100Ah/day at anchor and 115Ah/day sailing. ?The goal is to be independent of alternator (Balmar 100A with 614 voltage regulator) charging for 4-5 days or longer. ?Two seperate options are under consideration. ? Both include 3 SunPower Monocrystalline - Shade Tolerant Semi-flexible panels mounted on the Bimini and dodger totaling either 465 or 395 Watts.? The 465 Watt option produces 214.5Ah/day for a 5-6 hour ideal solar day, and with a partially cloudy day reduction of 70%, it produces 150Ah/day. ?The 395 Watt option procduces 181.5 Ah/day with 127 Ah/day (same 70% reduction) under partly cloudy conditions. ?Each of the three panels will be connected to separate Victron MPPT controllers. My understanding is that excess wattage is sent back to the panels by the controllers in the form of heat energy. ?Is this correct or am I missing something?? How much solar power is too much for the above configuration? ?Is there a concern regarding excess heat due to the excess wattage, especially in full sun high temperature days? ?Is there a concern for damage to the canvass due to excess heat? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay
Don,
Nigel Calder estimates that on average a solar panel will produce 3 times its nominal output, this has been consistent with my experience. Higher quality panels will do a little better, lesser quality panels a little worse. This puts the 465w array at about 1400wh (115 ah) a day, not the 214 ah the marketing ?department wants you to believe. The 3x estimate works well for the middle latitudes in the typical sailing season.?
I’ve used my panels with both LA batteries and LFP batteries, performance with ?LFP batteries has been much better than with the LA batteries (Fireflys). The best I ever saw with LA batteries was 4x, the best I”ve seen with LFP batteries has been 5 times, a little over 1500wh out of a 300 watt array on a brilliant sunny early spring day in Florida charging LFP batteries. With the LFP batteries the solar panels are always in the bulk mode, the batteries take whatever the panels produce. This was not the case with LA batteries, as the SOC increased on them, the amount of current they could take decreased.
I don’t think you’ll have problems with your batteries and either the 465 or 395 array, the out put difference over the course of a day will be pretty minimal 1185 wh vs1395 wh, a difference of about 17ah, about 3% of the battery's capacity. There are enough variables in the conditions that you probably wouldn’t notice the difference. The real life difference might be even less give the controller will (should) cut back the output as the batteries approach 100% SOC and AGMs being LA batteries the last 10-15% of the SOC goes very slowly as the battery ability to absorb more current decreases.
I am not knowledgeable enough about the electronics to opine in any meaningful way about what the controller does with extra power. Some controllers, such as the Victrons have a separate “Load” ?output. The controller can be programmed to dump any excess capacity into the load out put which can then be put to use to heat water, run lights or whatever. I don’t think you need to worry about too much solar capacity and battery capacity.
Sun Power makes a lot of PV cells and they are a good brand. However, not all Sun Power cells are the same. The quality and efficiency of the cells depends on what part part of the crystal it is slice from. Some parts of the crystal are much more efficient than other parts. One way to tell is the pane'ls price and dealer reputation, better panels, i.e. more efficient panels cost more. There is a company out west that uses Sun Power cells and has a good reputation. At one point Calico Skies Youtube channel offered a discount code for that company. Maybe Bill or Grace will chime in on this.
?You didn’t mention how many controllers you planned to use. There are pros and cons to wiring the panels in series with one controller or parallel with individual controllers ?for each panel. I’m in the each panel gets its own controller camp. This helps to reduce negative effects from shading and provides some redundancy if one panel or controller goes down.
Hope this helps.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 2:22?PM, Oceans via groups.io <oceans100t@...> wrote:
My sincere thanks to all who contributed to the posts Solar Panel posts below. ?They have been very helpful in my decisions to build a system for my boat. ?One area that remains a bit of a mystery to me is how much solar wattage is safe and appropriate for a given amount of house bank Ah and daily draw. ?Specifically, my 12v system consists of a 500Ah AGM house bank with a 92% SOH which yields an actual 460Ah. ?My calculated daily usage is 100Ah/day at anchor and 115Ah/day sailing. ?The goal is to be independent of alternator (Balmar 100A with 614 voltage regulator) charging for 4-5 days or longer. ?Two seperate options are under consideration. ? Both include 3 SunPower Monocrystalline - Shade Tolerant Semi-flexible panels mounted on the Bimini and dodger totaling either 465 or 395 Watts.? The 465 Watt option produces 214.5Ah/day for a 5-6 hour ideal solar day, and with a partially cloudy day reduction of 70%, it produces 150Ah/day. ?The 395 Watt option procduces 181.5 Ah/day with 127 Ah/day (same 70% reduction) under partly cloudy conditions. ?Each of the three panels will be connected to separate Victron MPPT controllers.
My understanding is that excess wattage is sent back to the panels by the controllers in the form of heat energy. ?Is this correct or am I missing something??
How much solar power is too much for the above configuration? ?Is there a concern regarding excess heat due to the excess wattage, especially in full sun high temperature days? ?Is there a concern for damage to the canvass due to excess heat?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Don Fleming
Duet
S-38-1 #77
Hudson River
?
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Re: Solar Panels on Bimini with Split Backstay
My sincere thanks to all who contributed to the posts Solar Panel posts below. ?They have been very helpful in my decisions to build a system for my boat. ?One area that remains a bit of a mystery to me is how much solar wattage is safe and appropriate for a given amount of house bank Ah and daily draw. ?Specifically, my 12v system consists of a 500Ah AGM house bank with a 92% SOH which yields an actual 460Ah. ?My calculated daily usage is 100Ah/day at anchor and 115Ah/day sailing. ?The goal is to be independent of alternator (Balmar 100A with 614 voltage regulator) charging for 4-5 days or longer. ?Two seperate options are under consideration. ? Both include 3 SunPower Monocrystalline - Shade Tolerant Semi-flexible panels mounted on the Bimini and dodger totaling either 465 or 395 Watts.? The 465 Watt option produces 214.5Ah/day for a 5-6 hour ideal solar day, and with a partially cloudy day reduction of 70%, it produces 150Ah/day. ?The 395 Watt option procduces 181.5 Ah/day with 127 Ah/day (same 70% reduction) under partly cloudy conditions. ?Each of the three panels will be connected to separate Victron MPPT controllers.
My understanding is that excess wattage is sent back to the panels by the controllers in the form of heat energy. ?Is this correct or am I missing something??
How much solar power is too much for the above configuration? ?Is there a concern regarding excess heat due to the excess wattage, especially in full sun high temperature days? ?Is there a concern for damage to the canvass due to excess heat?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Don Fleming
Duet
S-38-1 #77
Hudson River
?
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Re: Sabre 38 Mk2 rod rigging open style turnbuckles
I think if you're going offshore for several?days it's best not to guess and upgrade things that are over 20 years old that could fail with the rig, steering, safety?and below waterline systems.?
On Sat, Apr 12, 2025 at 8:01?AM Pete Waterson via <peterjwaterson= [email protected]> wrote: I eventually caught up with my rigger yesterday and took him the two turnbuckle bodies that the surveyor thought had hairline cracks. He inspected them and could not find any cracks and thinks that what the surveyor
saw was the rough line of the casting marks along the inside of each side of the frame. I also looked using my bench magnifier and could not see any cracks. That said, I am still going to replace both cap shroud turnbuckles and the one port side lower shroud turnbuckle. I am also going to have a full rig inspection next week and see what comes of that. I did have a visual rigging inspection done after purchasing Chardonnay in ‘Sep ‘21 and at that time, my rigger told me that the Rod rigging was in good shape and when I asked
him “ would you go to Bermuda with this rig?” He told me yes, no problem. I’m going to do some digging and
try to find out if & when the standing rigging was replaced.
I had measured the pitch of the threads on both sizes of turnbuckle and they were the same (20 TPI). I then found that the Hayn replacement 3/8” turnbuckle body came with 24 TPI threads. My rigger identified that the lower was actually 9/16” x 20 thread, rather than 3/8” - which he said was no longer common, but apparently still obtainable.?
Thanks everyone for your input the saga continues…..
?
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
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Re: Sabre 38 Mk2 rod rigging open style turnbuckles
Pete Some additional information. The rod in Rod Rigging will last a lifetime unless abused. Where rod rigging fails is at the cold formed heads at either end of each shroud. If your threaded studs have enough spare thread length it is possible to cut off the old heads and reform new heads. You’ll need a couple of spare inches of thread per shroud. It requires special equipment to do so and not all rigging companies have it. I successfully reheaded my rigging a while back, and suggest you inquire with your rigger about the feasibility of your rigging for this approach. I don’t recall exactly but it might have been $50/ head. Substantially less expensive than all new rod.
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On Apr 12, 2025, at 8:01?AM, Pete Waterson via groups.io <peterjwaterson@...> wrote:
? I eventually caught up with my rigger yesterday and took him the two turnbuckle bodies that the surveyor thought had hairline cracks. He inspected them and could not find any cracks and thinks that what the surveyor
saw was the rough line of the casting marks along the inside of each side of the frame. I also looked using my bench magnifier and could not see any cracks. That said, I am still going to replace both cap shroud turnbuckles and the one port side lower shroud turnbuckle. I am also going to have a full rig inspection next week and see what comes of that. I did have a visual rigging inspection done after purchasing Chardonnay in ‘Sep ‘21 and at that time, my rigger told me that the Rod rigging was in good shape and when I asked
him “ would you go to Bermuda with this rig?” He told me yes, no problem. I’m going to do some digging and
try to find out if & when the standing rigging was replaced.
I had measured the pitch of the threads on both sizes of turnbuckle and they were the same (20 TPI). I then found that the Hayn replacement 3/8” turnbuckle body came with 24 TPI threads. My rigger identified that the lower was actually 9/16” x 20 thread, rather than 3/8” - which he said was no longer common, but apparently still obtainable.?
Thanks everyone for your input the saga continues…..
?
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
|
Re: Sabre 38 Mk2 rod rigging open style turnbuckles
I eventually caught up with my rigger yesterday and took him the two turnbuckle bodies that the surveyor thought had hairline cracks. He inspected them and could not find any cracks and thinks that what the surveyor
saw was the rough line of the casting marks along the inside of each side of the frame. I also looked using my bench magnifier and could not see any cracks. That said, I am still going to replace both cap shroud turnbuckles and the one port side lower shroud turnbuckle. I am also going to have a full rig inspection next week and see what comes of that. I did have a visual rigging inspection done after purchasing Chardonnay in ‘Sep ‘21 and at that time, my rigger told me that the Rod rigging was in good shape and when I asked
him “ would you go to Bermuda with this rig?” He told me yes, no problem. I’m going to do some digging and
try to find out if & when the standing rigging was replaced.
I had measured the pitch of the threads on both sizes of turnbuckle and they were the same (20 TPI). I then found that the Hayn replacement 3/8” turnbuckle body came with 24 TPI threads. My rigger identified that the lower was actually 9/16” x 20 thread, rather than 3/8” - which he said was no longer common, but apparently still obtainable.?
Thanks everyone for your input the saga continues…..
?
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
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Re: Cost of insurance survey?
?
I had my insurance survey (in the water) done last week in Oriental, NC at $20.00/ft, which I thought was very reasonable.
?
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
|
Re: Cost of insurance survey?
Thanks for the replies everyone. ? Sounds like the survey quote is in the ball park. ?The surveyor is John Sewall who is taking over the long time business of Tony Theriault in southern Maine. ?
Dave Witherill?
Pathfinder, ‘87 34 Mk II
?
?
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Re: Cost of insurance survey?
I paid $20/ft in Baltimore in November. It was discounted since it is the third time in 10 years that he has surveyed the boat ( we are commercial and insurance is requiring a survey every five years).
Steve
1985 S36
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Re: Cost of insurance survey?
Jim before doing it again be sure they will accept an in the water survey
Allison LehmanSwiftsure Yachtsallison@...Cell: 510.912.5800Fax: 510.860.4640
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On Apr 11, 2025, at 6:54?PM, Jim Gathard via groups.io <jimgathardncs@...> wrote:
I choose surveyor.? Vessel was surveyed in-water (I winter vessel in-water). My insurance Would not accept the survey. I then initiated search for company that would. On Fri, Apr 11, 2025 at 9:02 PM, Peter via groups.io <Pfmet@...> wrote: Hello Jim. We are insured with marine/home/3autos and umbrella coverage with Amica. Did they specify their choice a surveyor from the local area? And how long age was the survey done? Was it done for an agreed value type policy? Our boat hasn’t been surveyed in 20 yrs and they’ve not said a word yet.
--
Peter Metcalf
Pfmet@...
Sabre 28 #312 Serenade
Noank, CT
--
Allison
S426 Kingfisher
SF Bay/Pacifc Northwest
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Re: Cost of insurance survey?
I choose surveyor.? Vessel was surveyed in-water (I winter vessel in-water). My insurance Would not accept the survey. I then initiated search for company that would.
On Fri, Apr 11, 2025 at 9:02 PM, Peter via groups.io <Pfmet@...> wrote: Hello Jim. We are insured with marine/home/3autos and umbrella coverage with Amica. Did they specify their choice a surveyor from the local area? And how long age was the survey done? Was it done for an agreed value type policy? Our boat hasn’t been surveyed in 20 yrs and they’ve not said a word yet.
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Peter Metcalf
Pfmet@...
Sabre 28 #312 Serenade
Noank, CT
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Re: Cost of insurance survey?
Hello Jim. We are insured with marine/home/3autos and umbrella coverage with Amica. Did they specify their choice a surveyor from the local area? And how long age was the survey done? Was it done for an agreed value type policy? Our boat hasn’t been surveyed in 20 yrs and they’ve not said a word yet.
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Peter Metcalf
Pfmet@...
Sabre 28 #312 Serenade
Noank, CT
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Re: Cost of insurance survey?
Do you mind me asking who did it?
Allison LehmanSwiftsure Yachtsallison@...Cell: 510.912.5800Fax: 510.860.4640
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On Apr 11, 2025, at 3:41?PM, LRG via groups.io <lgridley@...> wrote:
I just this week paid $30/ft in San Francisco for an in the water insurance survey. It was more thorough than I expected and probably more than the insurance company needs. Still I was happy to have the boat get a good look over in case I was missing something.
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Sabre 38-2 #164
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Allison
S426 Kingfisher
SF Bay/Pacifc Northwest
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Re: Cost of insurance survey?
I just this week paid $30/ft in San Francisco for an in the water insurance survey. It was more thorough than I expected and probably more than the insurance company needs. Still I was happy to have the boat get a good look over in case I was missing something.
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Sabre 38-2 #164
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LRG