4 should have everything from 3 except, hopefully, the glitches BUT
I'm no software guru
On 4/4/2025 12:55 PM, Terry via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I have Axiom 9 Pro chart plotter. All other instruments are
Raymarine. Upgraded in 2020.
?
I believe I'm running Lighthouse 2 currently.?
Should I go straight from. 2 to 4 or 2-3-4?
?
I checked old posts and there's not much on Lighthouse 4.
?
Any advice would be most gratefully appreciated.?
?
Vintage
S38 Mkll
Great Lakes
--
Dave Short
SV One Timer 1997 S362
Mt Desert, ME
|
I have Axiom 9 Pro chart plotter. All other instruments are Raymarine. Upgraded in 2020.
?
I believe I'm running Lighthouse 2 currently.?
Should I go straight from. 2 to 4 or 2-3-4?
?
I checked old posts and there's not much on Lighthouse 4.
?
Any advice would be most gratefully appreciated.?
?
Vintage
S38 Mkll
Great Lakes
|
Re: Replcement SeaTalk GPS sensor
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Show quoted text
On Apr 4, 2025, at 8:07?AM, Jim Starkey via groups.io <Jim@...> wrote:
Wouldn't it just be simpler to put on an N2K backbone? with an
N2K GPS?? A NMEA 183 GPS is going to need power anyway, so running
the power to the backbone is no more trouble than running it to
the GPS.? And it avoid cutting any cables.? If (big "if") the E80
will echo GPS to a NMEA 183 port, that can be wired to the NMEA
183 input on the DSC radio. When I did this last year, I went with a standard N2K backbone
rather than Raymarine's proprietary connectors.? You'll need a
Raymarine spur cable to go from the backbone to the E80, but then
you're free of Raymarine cable prices.
OK, I can sense Allison smirking at this point, but N2K does
simplify low speed devices even if it can't handle radar, charts,
images, or sonar. I'd advise against the E85001 route -- the wire connections are
fragile and irreparable. Might as well take Allison's advice and
join the early 21st century.
On 4/4/2025 8:46 AM, Pete Waterson via
groups.io wrote:
Terry:
?
Had I known that the plotter was an E80, I would have also
added that it is compatible with the current Raymarine (Seatalk
ng/NMEA2000) RS150 GPS sensor which, although more expensive, is
compatible with new equipment going forward. The E80 Seatalk 2
Port recognizes most common NMEA 2000 sentences, but not AIS.
You would need a Seatalk 2/Seatalk ng Adaptor Cable for the E80
and then create a Seatalk ng Network (A06064, 2x A06031) to
support the RS150. I can’t remember for sure, but the E80
Seatalk 2 port may also provide power as it is not truly an N2K
compliant port. If not, you would also need an A06049 Seatalk ng
power cable (I can get that info for you if you need it).
If you proceed with the SCU-31, you will have to cut off the
connector moulded onto the cable and look at the instruction
sheet to identify the power and data wires. You will then have
to connect it to the “data in” pins of the E80 ?NMEA 0183 port,
for which you will of course need a suitable cable, which of
course is discontinued. If you don’t have one and can’t find one
online, I can probably help you out on that.
The other scenario is that the E80 only has 1 NMEA 0183 Port
and if it is being for AIS, it would be configured for 38,400 Bd
and not the normal ?4,800 Bd. If so, you can either choose to
forego the AIS feature or find a Raymarine Seatalk 1 to NMEA
0183/RS232 interface box (E85001). They too are discontinued,
but available used online. I think I have 1 or two of those
kicking around too, but I’d have to test them to ensure
functionality.?
Bottom line is, if you have all these issues going on, it’s now
getting to the point where adding an SCU-31 might not be the
cheapest option!
Sorry I was not in possession of all the facts, particularly the
model of Chartplotter, before making that recommendation, but
hopefully it’s not too late to refuse the shipment if you feel
it is getting a little too steep a hill to climb to save $300 or
so.
?
--
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
--
Jim Starkey,
AmorphousDB, LLC
--
Allison
S426 Kingfisher
SF Bay/Pacifc Northwest
|
Re: Replcement SeaTalk GPS sensor
Wouldn't it just be simpler to put on an N2K backbone? with an
N2K GPS?? A NMEA 183 GPS is going to need power anyway, so running
the power to the backbone is no more trouble than running it to
the GPS.? And it avoid cutting any cables.? If (big "if") the E80
will echo GPS to a NMEA 183 port, that can be wired to the NMEA
183 input on the DSC radio.
When I did this last year, I went with a standard N2K backbone
rather than Raymarine's proprietary connectors.? You'll need a
Raymarine spur cable to go from the backbone to the E80, but then
you're free of Raymarine cable prices.
OK, I can sense Allison smirking at this point, but N2K does
simplify low speed devices even if it can't handle radar, charts,
images, or sonar.
I'd advise against the E85001 route -- the wire connections are
fragile and irreparable. Might as well take Allison's advice and
join the early 21st century.
On 4/4/2025 8:46 AM, Pete Waterson via
groups.io wrote:
Terry:
?
Had I known that the plotter was an E80, I would have also
added that it is compatible with the current Raymarine (Seatalk
ng/NMEA2000) RS150 GPS sensor which, although more expensive, is
compatible with new equipment going forward. The E80 Seatalk 2
Port recognizes most common NMEA 2000 sentences, but not AIS.
You would need a Seatalk 2/Seatalk ng Adaptor Cable for the E80
and then create a Seatalk ng Network (A06064, 2x A06031) to
support the RS150. I can’t remember for sure, but the E80
Seatalk 2 port may also provide power as it is not truly an N2K
compliant port. If not, you would also need an A06049 Seatalk ng
power cable (I can get that info for you if you need it).
If you proceed with the SCU-31, you will have to cut off the
connector moulded onto the cable and look at the instruction
sheet to identify the power and data wires. You will then have
to connect it to the “data in” pins of the E80 ?NMEA 0183 port,
for which you will of course need a suitable cable, which of
course is discontinued. If you don’t have one and can’t find one
online, I can probably help you out on that.
The other scenario is that the E80 only has 1 NMEA 0183 Port
and if it is being for AIS, it would be configured for 38,400 Bd
and not the normal ?4,800 Bd. If so, you can either choose to
forego the AIS feature or find a Raymarine Seatalk 1 to NMEA
0183/RS232 interface box (E85001). They too are discontinued,
but available used online. I think I have 1 or two of those
kicking around too, but I’d have to test them to ensure
functionality.?
Bottom line is, if you have all these issues going on, it’s now
getting to the point where adding an SCU-31 might not be the
cheapest option!
Sorry I was not in possession of all the facts, particularly the
model of Chartplotter, before making that recommendation, but
hopefully it’s not too late to refuse the shipment if you feel
it is getting a little too steep a hill to climb to save $300 or
so.
?
--
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
--
Jim Starkey,
AmorphousDB, LLC
|
Re: Replcement SeaTalk GPS sensor
Terry:
?
Had I known that the plotter was an E80, I would have also added that it is compatible with the current Raymarine (Seatalk ng/NMEA2000) RS150 GPS sensor which, although more expensive, is compatible with new equipment going forward. The E80 Seatalk 2 Port recognizes most common NMEA 2000 sentences, but not AIS. You would need a Seatalk 2/Seatalk ng Adaptor Cable for the E80 and then create a Seatalk ng Network (A06064, 2x A06031) to support the RS150. I can’t remember for sure, but the E80 Seatalk 2 port may also provide power as it is not truly an N2K compliant port. If not, you would also need an A06049 Seatalk ng power cable (I can get that info for you if you need it).
If you proceed with the SCU-31, you will have to cut off the connector moulded onto the cable and look at the instruction sheet to identify the power and data wires. You will then have to connect it to the “data in” pins of the E80 ?NMEA 0183 port, for which you will of course need a suitable cable, which of course is discontinued. If you don’t have one and can’t find one online, I can probably help you out on that.
The other scenario is that the E80 only has 1 NMEA 0183 Port and if it is being for AIS, it would be configured for 38,400 Bd and not the normal ?4,800 Bd. If so, you can either choose to forego the AIS feature or find a Raymarine Seatalk 1 to NMEA 0183/RS232 interface box (E85001). They too are discontinued, but available used online. I think I have 1 or two of those kicking around too, but I’d have to test them to ensure functionality.?
Bottom line is, if you have all these issues going on, it’s now getting to the point where adding an SCU-31 might not be the cheapest option!
Sorry I was not in possession of all the facts, particularly the model of Chartplotter, before making that recommendation, but hopefully it’s not too late to refuse the shipment if you feel it is getting a little too steep a hill to climb to save $300 or so.
?
--
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
|
Re: Stewart Warner mechanical tachometer
I would like to have it. How much is shipping to 03901? ?Thank you.?
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Show quoted text
On Apr 3, 2025, at 11:33 PM, Tim Dokken via groups.io <timdokken@...> wrote:
? I have a mechanical Stewart Warner tachometer that will send to whoever wants it, all I ask is you pay shipping. ?Don't ask how, but I ended up with two of these so giving one away. ?I used it to calibrate my new tach for my W21 and it worked fantastic. ?Just touched it to the center of the bolt on the crankshaft pulley and I get an accurate RPM reading.
?
?
?
--
Tim Dokken
1985 Sabre 32 #59
Bayfield, WI
|
Re: Checking Gearbox Oil on Hurth 50
David -
?
When you replace your transmission fluid, make sure you use the old style ATF fluid and not the modern fluids that are thinner. ?The modern fluids will damage your transmission. ?
?
I got mine at Napa, and it was Dec/Merc or Dexron III:
?
Castrol also makes a similar ATF fluid: ?
?
And you don't need much, one quart will provide for 3 fluid changes in your Hurth HBW50.
?
--
Tim Dokken
1985 Sabre 32 #59
Bayfield, WI
|
Stewart Warner mechanical tachometer
I have a mechanical Stewart Warner tachometer that will send to whoever wants it, all I ask is you pay shipping. ?Don't ask how, but I ended up with two of these so giving one away. ?I used it to calibrate my new tach for my W21 and it worked fantastic. ?Just touched it to the center of the bolt on the crankshaft pulley and I get an accurate RPM reading.
?
?
?
--
Tim Dokken
1985 Sabre 32 #59
Bayfield, WI
|
Hi Jorgen, You are absolutely correct regarding dry time for the adhesive. I think the adhesive recommends 3 or 4 minutes. I did this job 5 or 6 years ago, so I cannot remember the correct time.? Do not jump the gun and do it sooner than the recommended dry time or you will get bubbles (again, don't ask me how I know). Also use a rubber roller to smooth out the Naugahyde after you apply it. When you wrap around the long edge, use stainless steel staples to hold the Naugahyde in place. On the short edges, trim the Naugahyde about an 1/8" longer than the edge of the board to allow for any contraction. My headliner came out great, in fact the guy who owns the yard wanted to know if he could pay me to do other boats. I said no way since it was a labor of love and took a good deal of time.? Good luck with your project.
|
Re: Replcement SeaTalk GPS sensor
With luck, you can wire the NMEA 183 from the Scu-31 to your E80
and the E80 will forward position data from NMEA 183 to
Seatalk-1.? And you can wire the NMEA 183 output to both the chart
plotter and your DSC radio.
On 4/2/2025 4:35 PM, wtsnt via
groups.io wrote:
Pete,
?
Thanks for the advice on the Standard Horizon Scu-31. We
ordered one today.
?
Is there a "trick" to wiring it in to an older SeaTalk
system? We have an E80 chartplotter and feed the DSC on our Icom
VHF.
?
Thanks,
?
Terry Watson
Sabre 34 MkII
"Kismet"
Marion, MA
--
Jim Starkey,
AmorphousDB, LLC
|
Re: Replcement SeaTalk GPS sensor
Pete,
?
Thanks for the advice on the Standard Horizon Scu-31. We ordered one today.
?
Is there a "trick" to wiring it in to an older SeaTalk system? We have an E80 chartplotter and feed the DSC on our Icom VHF.
?
Thanks,
?
Terry Watson
Sabre 34 MkII
"Kismet"
Marion, MA
|
Re: condition and value survey
I didn’t mind the requirement to get a survey for a 32 year old boat that had not been surveyed in 12 years. Not unreasonable given the number of boats out there in really poor shape at that age. What drove me over the edge was requiring a separate rigging survey just days before I had planned to cross over to the Bahamas even after I had inquired about survey needs last fall. That prompted me to file a complaint with the NYS Insurance Commission. The complaint got their attention.
The reasoning for the rigging survey was their claim an increasing number of older boats were experiencing rigging failures ?when going to the Bahamas. I wouldn’t be surprised if that were true. Lots of dreamers out there who buy cheap old boats. Standing rigging seems to be the last thing anyone thinks of upgrading.
One of the side benefits of the V and C survey was a set of independent eyes looking at the boat and finding it in good working order and condition. He also valued it a more than I paid for it 12 years ago.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
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Show quoted text
On Apr 2, 2025, at 9:35?AM, Jeff Boyle via groups.io <boylessix@...> wrote:
Dave, maybe they were losing too many customers over it!
?
Jeff
|
Re: condition and value survey
Dave, maybe they were losing too many customers over it!
?
Jeff
|
Re: Replcement SeaTalk GPS sensor
Terry: if you get a green light, then the RS125 is computing a valid GPS fix, however the Green light does not mean that the device is actually outputting that data, as there could be a problem with the Seatalk output curcuitry. There is a possibility therefore that the no fix fault you have is not actually to do with the sensor, but with the cable ( yellow or green cores). Yellow is data out to the Seatalk Bus. ?Green needs to be tied to the red for Seatalk output and it is tied to ground for NMEA output ( obviously if the green is still connected to red and gets shorted to ground, it will short out the supply voltage to the RS125 and there will be no light at all). If you have any other instruments connected on your Seatalk bus, you should check to see that data is getting from those devices to the Chartplotter (Wind, Boat Speed or Depth perhaps). If there are additional devices and you are not seeing any of this data at all, then it is possible that the fault is with any one of these devices, (including the RS125)
Irrespective of all of the above, the RS125 was first launched over 20 years ago and was not designed to last until 2025. The number of binary digits in the data word ?was not sufficient to allow it to compute date and time correctly after 20 years and so all Raystar 125’s still in the field are computing incorrect time and date and although they will still compute Position, they will not allow computation of correct navigational data relating to ETA and for computation of Tidal information etc. - i.e. It needs to be replaced not fixed. As has been stated, depending upon the Chartplotter it is connected to, position can be input via NMEA0183 and for that, a cost effective device we sometimes use is the Standard Horizon SCU-31, which sells for around $100.00.
--
Pete Waterson
“颁丑补谤诲辞苍苍补测”
S38-2
Oriental, NC
|
Re: A cruel April Fools joke
Wow…well done but April Fools Cruel too!?
--
Jim Kerney
SV/Blown Away S402
Cape Elizabeth, Maine
~~(\_~~~~(\_~~~~(\_~~
Creator of PedPox for Cruisers
jimkerney@...
|
Being the queen of typos, I couldn’t agree more wholeheartedly. Unfortunately, it does mean the readers do need to learn another written language.?? Allison Lehman Swiftsure Yachts 510 912-5800 cell 510 860-4640 fax allisonleh@... ? ? ??
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Show quoted text
On Apr 1, 2025, at 7:11?PM, Jim Starkey via groups.io <Jim@...> wrote:
? Please don’t edit a post over and over.? Those of us on email get a new message for every edit — four so far and counting. ? Multiple messages are much worse than typos.
On Tue, Apr 1, 2025 at 6:55?PM Jorgen Naess via <joergen.naess= [email protected]> wrote: [Edited Message Follows]
David, thank you so much for the advice!. This morning I purchased Naugahyde from Sailrite, they have a great selection. I am curious to see how close match the color of the new material (BRIGHT WHITE) is to my 24-year old Naugahyde.
?
To gain some hands-on experience I will start with a few test-panels; a few pieces of plywood from Home Depot. First glue the 1/8" foam (purchased on Amazon - hope it can be used) onto the plywood and then glue the Naugahyde onto the foam. The trick is for how long to let the 3M 76 adhesive dry (on the 1/8" foam) before I roll the Naugahyde onto the foam. You only have one chance, as the 3M 76 adhesive sticks and grips right away. Pull off a misaligned or wrinkled first-try of the Naugahyde roll-on and the foam below rips (don't ask how I know).
?
After I feel I have it figured out I replace the real headliner (and some of the foam where damaged) on the plywood panels removed from the ceiling of the boat.?
?
Wish me luck!
--
Allison
S426 Kingfisher
SF Bay/Pacifc Northwest
|
Please don’t edit a post over and over.? Those of us on email get a new message for every edit — four so far and counting. ? Multiple messages are much worse than typos.
On Tue, Apr 1, 2025 at 6:55?PM Jorgen Naess via <joergen.naess= [email protected]> wrote: [Edited Message Follows]
David, thank you so much for the advice!. This morning I purchased Naugahyde from Sailrite, they have a great selection. I am curious to see how close match the color of the new material (BRIGHT WHITE) is to my 24-year old Naugahyde.
?
To gain some hands-on experience I will start with a few test-panels; a few pieces of plywood from Home Depot. First glue the 1/8" foam (purchased on Amazon - hope it can be used) onto the plywood and then glue the Naugahyde onto the foam. The trick is for how long to let the 3M 76 adhesive dry (on the 1/8" foam) before I roll the Naugahyde onto the foam. You only have one chance, as the 3M 76 adhesive sticks and grips right away. Pull off a misaligned or wrinkled first-try of the Naugahyde roll-on and the foam below rips (don't ask how I know).
?
After I feel I have it figured out I replace the real headliner (and some of the foam where damaged) on the plywood panels removed from the ceiling of the boat.?
?
Wish me luck!
|
That’s great Info Peter. Thank you.?
---Alan Pressman Phone; 941-350-1559
Alan I used Toplac to repaint a fiberglas shower base in situ. I just used an abrasive 3M pad and one coat of leftover interlux barrier coat for prep. The white Toplac brushed on and leveled beautifully. When we sold the house 11 years later, after countless human and dog showers, it still looked like new.? I used the exhaust fan and a 3M respirator while painting. The solvent is meanstuff. ?
I’ve been Investigating this too. I’m liking what I hear about interlux toplac plus.? They say it’s rolling without tipping. ?
Also trying to track down their primer/undercoat that is called One Up.? It Eliminates some of the sanding beteeen coats and replaces their standard primer.? It seems to be available in Europe but not the US.?
I’m wondering if anyone has seen One Up in the states? ---Alan Pressman Windswept S34/402 Phone; 941-350-1559
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 3:43?PM David Lochner via <davelochner= [email protected]> wrote: Take a look at BoatWorks Today YouTube. Andy has lots of painting videos.
Also consider Alexseal, instead of Awlgrip products or Interlux products. Alexseal has an additive that makes roll and tipping very easy. Looks like it was sprayed on. Full disclosure, I have no interest in Alexseal and I have no direct experience with above the waterline hull paining.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
Hey Sabre Crew,?
?
I'm planning to do a paint job on my hull next off-season, rub rail to waterline, and my mental wheels are turning on this topic.?
If anyone has an album of photos or videos of when they did theirs, I would love to see it. Also, any tips, tricks, tools, supplies, words of warning - all welcomed.??
?
Cheers.
?
Jordan
S402-047
Formerly S36-087
Lake Michigan
|
David, thank you so much for the advice!. This morning I purchased Naugahyde from Sailrite, they have a great selection. I am curious to see how close match the color of the new material (BRIGHT WHITE) is to my 24-year old Naugahyde.
?
To gain some hands-on experience I will start with a few test-panels; a few pieces of plywood from Home Depot. First glue the 1/8" foam (purchased on Amazon - hope it can be used) onto the plywood and then glue the Naugahyde onto the foam. The trick is for how long to let the 3M 76 adhesive dry (on the 1/8" foam) before I roll the Naugahyde onto the foam. You only have one chance, as the 3M 76 adhesive sticks and grips right away. Pull off a misaligned or wrinkled first-try of the Naugahyde roll-on and the foam below rips (don't ask how I know).
?
After I feel I have it figured out I replace the real headliner (and some of the foam where damaged) on the plywood panels removed from the ceiling of the boat.?
?
Wish me luck!
|
Alan I used Toplac to repaint a fiberglas shower base in situ. I just used an abrasive 3M pad and one coat of leftover interlux barrier coat for prep. The white Toplac brushed on and leveled beautifully. When we sold the house 11 years later, after countless human and dog showers, it still looked like new.? I used the exhaust fan and a 3M respirator while painting. The solvent is meanstuff.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 1, 2025, at 4:45 PM, Alan via groups.io <alanpressman@...> wrote:
? I’ve been Investigating this too. I’m liking what I hear about interlux toplac plus.? They say it’s rolling without tipping. ?
Also trying to track down their primer/undercoat that is called One Up.? It Eliminates some of the sanding beteeen coats and replaces their standard primer.? It seems to be available in Europe but not the US.?
I’m wondering if anyone has seen One Up in the states? ---Alan Pressman Windswept S34/402 Phone; 941-350-1559
On Sun, Mar 30, 2025 at 3:43?PM David Lochner via <davelochner= [email protected]> wrote: Take a look at BoatWorks Today YouTube. Andy has lots of painting videos.
Also consider Alexseal, instead of Awlgrip products or Interlux products. Alexseal has an additive that makes roll and tipping very easy. Looks like it was sprayed on. Full disclosure, I have no interest in Alexseal and I have no direct experience with above the waterline hull paining.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
Hey Sabre Crew,?
?
I'm planning to do a paint job on my hull next off-season, rub rail to waterline, and my mental wheels are turning on this topic.?
If anyone has an album of photos or videos of when they did theirs, I would love to see it. Also, any tips, tricks, tools, supplies, words of warning - all welcomed.??
?
Cheers.
?
Jordan
S402-047
Formerly S36-087
Lake Michigan
|
David Short, SV One Timer, 1997 362, Mt Desert, ME
Terry
Jim Starkey
Pete Waterson
Tim Dokken
Joe Roberts
Jeff Boyle
Jim Kerney - SV/Blown Away - Sabre 402
Jorgen Naess