The fixed ports on my S34-1 leak. Does anyone have instructions on how to replace the seals and the materials needed?
Thank you.?
Michael
s/v Eventide
34-1 #237
?
?
|
Re: keel bolts and hatch covers
My 34 is 90 lbs as well. Make sure it's on the hard if you're going to remove the nuts from the bolts. You may also consider installing larger washers to better distribute the load.
--
Robert
s/v Valinor
Sabre 34 Mark I #207
New Bern, NC
|
Re: keel bolts and hatch covers
Check with Sabre on torque - I believe 250 ft-lbs will crush the glass.
?
Tim R
38MKII in refit?
|
Re: keel bolts and hatch covers
Tony is correct.? Will keel supported.
?
?
Regarding the hatch.? Make sure the threads are clean on both the knob and the arm.? Maybe you are not actually tightening the knob against the rod because the threads are corroded.? Once I cleaned mine I have had no problems with them holding up the hatch.?
?
Best
--
Foster
1987 Sabre 42 C/B
Hull #17
|
Re: Tonnage Measurement for Sabre 425
Good clarification there. ?So I understand that to mean that my U.S. registered boat with a gross tonnage of 18 GRT should be converted to metric for Canadian registration.
|
Re: keel bolts and hatch covers
Yes. Not hanging but blocked. With keel supported correct ??
Please consider the environment before printing this email. Thank you.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 11, 2025, at 5:46?PM, David Lochner via groups.io <davelochner@...> wrote:
? What the other Dave said, 90 ft lbs and out of the water. Plan on using deep sockets. The bolts will withstand greater torque however the lead and fiberglass in the middle won¡¯t be that happy.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
On Mar 11, 2025, at 7:33?PM, David Castor via groups.io <dpcastor@...> wrote:
Check the owners manual or contact Sabre. On my 1986 S32 it¡¯s 90 ft-lbs.? Boat needs to be out of the water.?
Dave Castor? Port Angeles, Wash 1986 S32 On Tue, Mar 11, 2025 at 4:29?PM Joel Greenfield via <jgz108= [email protected]> wrote: 250 lbs? ? Hi
I have been advised to retorque my keel bolts.? I have located a torque wrench but am not too sure as to how to proceed.? Any?suggestions?
I also have a problem with the large hatch cover over the V berth.? I cannot get it to stay open.? everything seem to be in proper order but no matter how hard I twist the knobs the hatch will not stay open except when it is fully open.? I took the knobs from the two little used hatch covers midships and tried them to no avail. Once again, any suggestions?
Best Tom? Wanderer Celebration Sabre 38 mk 1
-- Thomas Wanderer Sabre 38 Celebration
|
Re: keel bolts and hatch covers
What the other Dave said, 90 ft lbs and out of the water. Plan on using deep sockets. The bolts will withstand greater torque however the lead and fiberglass in the middle won¡¯t be that happy.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 11, 2025, at 7:33?PM, David Castor via groups.io <dpcastor@...> wrote:
Check the owners manual or contact Sabre. On my 1986 S32 it¡¯s 90 ft-lbs.? Boat needs to be out of the water.?
Dave Castor? Port Angeles, Wash 1986 S32 On Tue, Mar 11, 2025 at 4:29?PM Joel Greenfield via <jgz108= [email protected]> wrote: 250 lbs? ? Hi
I have been advised to retorque my keel bolts.? I have located a torque wrench but am not too sure as to how to proceed.? Any?suggestions?
I also have a problem with the large hatch cover over the V berth.? I cannot get it to stay open.? everything seem to be in proper order but no matter how hard I twist the knobs the hatch will not stay open except when it is fully open.? I took the knobs from the two little used hatch covers midships and tried them to no avail. Once again, any suggestions?
Best Tom? Wanderer Celebration Sabre 38 mk 1
-- Thomas Wanderer Sabre 38 Celebration
|
Re: keel bolts and hatch covers
If you have the Bowmar hatches I had that issue... you need to buy new hatch riser arms....I had to tap and die the bolts out .. major pain ... but ... when I pulled off the hatch riser arms ahead of getting a new set shipped I used one of the mast wedges to keep it open for a bit ....I found that it was handy when I was solo sailing to close the hatch under way when I was up on the fore deck ..just kicked it out and closed the hatch ..... I use them now with the arms unlocked from time to time so I can drop them without going?below ... you have to go down at some point to tighten them under way so the sheet does not lift them ... it's a hack for sure but sticking a mast wedge in it will buy you some time .... I find it handy as I solo sail often?
Hi
I have been advised to retorque my keel bolts.? I have located a torque wrench but am not too sure as to how to proceed.? Any?suggestions?
I also have a problem with the large hatch cover over the V berth.? I cannot get it to stay open.? everything seem to be in proper order but no matter how hard I twist the knobs the hatch will not stay open except when it is fully open.? I took the knobs from the two little used hatch covers midships and tried them to no avail. Once again, any suggestions?
Best Tom? Wanderer Celebration Sabre 38 mk 1
--
Thomas Wanderer
Sabre 38 Celebration
|
Re: keel bolts and hatch covers
Check the owners manual or contact Sabre. On my 1986 S32 it¡¯s 90 ft-lbs.? Boat needs to be out of the water.?
Dave Castor? Port Angeles, Wash 1986 S32
On Tue, Mar 11, 2025 at 4:29?PM Joel Greenfield via <jgz108= [email protected]> wrote: 250 lbs? ? Hi
I have been advised to retorque my keel bolts.? I have located a torque wrench but am not too sure as to how to proceed.? Any?suggestions?
I also have a problem with the large hatch cover over the V berth.? I cannot get it to stay open.? everything seem to be in proper order but no matter how hard I twist the knobs the hatch will not stay open except when it is fully open.? I took the knobs from the two little used hatch covers midships and tried them to no avail. Once again, any suggestions?
Best Tom? Wanderer Celebration Sabre 38 mk 1
-- Thomas Wanderer Sabre 38 Celebration
|
Re: keel bolts and hatch covers
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 11, 2025, at 5:24?PM, Tom via groups.io <thomas.wanderer49@...> wrote:
? Hi
I have been advised to retorque my keel bolts.? I have located a torque wrench but am not too sure as to how to proceed.? Any?suggestions?
I also have a problem with the large hatch cover over the V berth.? I cannot get it to stay open.? everything seem to be in proper order but no matter how hard I twist the knobs the hatch will not stay open except when it is fully open.? I took the knobs from the two little used hatch covers midships and tried them to no avail. Once again, any suggestions?
Best Tom? Wanderer Celebration Sabre 38 mk 1
-- Thomas Wanderer Sabre 38 Celebration
|
keel bolts and hatch covers
Hi
I have been advised to retorque my keel bolts.? I have located a torque wrench but am not too sure as to how to proceed.? Any?suggestions?
I also have a problem with the large hatch cover over the V berth.? I cannot get it to stay open.? everything seem to be in proper order but no matter how hard I twist the knobs the hatch will not stay open except when it is fully open.? I took the knobs from the two little used hatch covers midships and tried them to no avail. Once again, any suggestions?
Best Tom? Wanderer Celebration Sabre 38 mk 1
-- Thomas Wanderer Sabre 38 Celebration
|
Re: 402 head/shower drains
I'm pretty sure that the two drains in
the head and shower compartments teed together, through the filter
and pump to the sink drain through hull. When there is standing
water in the head compartment, the pump sucks it out. I haven't
seen water getting out without the pump running.
Besides, draining any kind of gray water to the bilge is a recipe
for a stinky bilge, and I can't imagine that Sabre would do
anything that stupid, especially since it was just as easy to
connect to that pump. My late FIL's Tortola-based Islander 44
drained gray water to the bilge, and believe me, you knew it as
soon as you got aboard.
Is it possible that the hose from the
drain in the head got detached from the tee or the drain fitting,
or developed a crack?
You're right, Glen would have the
answer. He would also be able to tell you how to fix it. I've got
a bad feeling that this is not a simple job.
On 3/11/2025 10:58 AM, Jordan via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
It sounds like everyone is confident that the shower sump pan
drains via a pump to the sink drain.
?
Is anyone on the group 100% positive where the drain for the
pan forward in the head are drains to? I¡¯ve assumed that it
drains to the bilge, but I haven¡¯t proven that. Unfortunately
the drain on ours isn¡¯t at the lowest point of the pan so I have
to squeegee the standing water to the drain.?
This might warrant an email to Glen. I¡¯d love to close this
case mentally.?
Jordan
S402-047
formerly S36-087
?
Lake Michigan
?
|
Re: 402 head/shower drains
It sounds like everyone is confident that the shower sump pan drains via a pump to the sink drain.
?
Is anyone on the group 100% positive where the drain for the pan forward in the head are drains to? I¡¯ve assumed that it drains to the bilge, but I haven¡¯t proven that. Unfortunately the drain on ours isn¡¯t at the lowest point of the pan so I have to squeegee the standing water to the drain.?
This might warrant an email to Glen. I¡¯d love to close this case mentally.?
Jordan
S402-047
formerly S36-087
?
Lake Michigan
?
|
Re: Tonnage Measurement for Sabre 425
Since the question of tonnage originated from a Canadian sailor, this
might be necessary to keep in mind...
The measurement system used for GRT and NRT can differ depending on the
country and its preferred system of measurement. Here's how it applies
to Canada and the United States:
1. Canada uses the **metric system**, so tonnage measurements are
typically based on **cubic meters** rather than cubic feet. One register
ton in Canada is equivalent to 2.83 cubic meters (which is the metric
equivalent of 100 cubic feet). However, Canada still uses the terms GRT
and NRT, but the calculations are aligned with the International
Convention on Tonnage Measurement of Ships (1969), which standardizes
tonnage measurements globally.
2. The U.S. traditionally uses the **imperial system**, where one
register ton is equal to **100 cubic feet**. However, the U.S. also
adheres to the International Convention on Tonnage Measurement of Ships
(1969) for vessels engaged in international trade. For domestic vessels,
the U.S. may still use the older system based on cubic feet.
Key Differences:
- Metric System (Canada): 1 register ton = 2.83 cubic meters.
- Imperial System (U.S.): 1 register ton = 100 cubic feet.
Practical Implications:
- If you're registering a vessel in Canada, the tonnage will be
calculated using the metric system.
- In the U.S., the tonnage calculation may depend on whether the vessel
is for domestic or international use. For international vessels, the
U.S. follows the international convention, which uses metric-based
calculations.
Conversion:
If you need to convert between the two systems:
- 1 cubic meter ¡Ö 35.3 cubic feet.
- 1 register ton (imperial) = 100 cubic feet ¡Ö 2.83 cubic meters.
When registering a vessel, it's important to clarify which system is
being used and ensure the measurements comply with the specific
country's regulations. Both Canada and the U.S. have maritime
authorities (Transport Canada and the U.S. Coast Guard, respectively)
that can provide guidance on tonnage calculations and registration
requirements.
--
Best regards,
Augustin
Rhapsody S425
|
Sea Frost Engine Refrigeration For Sale- Used
I have a used functional Sea Frost ED System. It was fully functional when removed last August. It was removed because the copper lines were beginning to corrode and had begun leaking.? To install it would need? ? ? 1. a pulley on the engine, ? ? 2.? bracket on front of the engine ? ? ? ? ? ? or? ? ? ? ? ? be attached to the engine room wall.? ? ? ?3. new copper tubing connecting components.
? ? ?4. spare parts for an?existing system. Any reasonable price considered.? I can discuss installation?process and take questions off line.
Thanks, Mike Fair Second Wind 362 Padanaram, Buzzards Bay
|
Re: 402 head/shower drains
Scott:
The shower sump drain on my 402 is drained by a shower sump pump; which pumps ?it to the sink drain.?
Andy
Snowy Owl
402 #40
|
Re: 402 head/shower drains
One last point - the base of the shower is below the water line, thus, a pump is needed.
|
Re: 402 head/shower drains
In Sapphire, our shower drains via a pump, which is actuated with a switch in the shower area.? The forward drain, in the head section, drains as you described - via water heater area to the dripless to the bilge. There is a switch on the electrical panel and a second switch just aft of the shower glass separation panel.? No pictures as I am not on board.? But can provide them if needed. Fair winds, Mike
~~ _/) ~~
svSapphire 2001 Sabre 402 Atlantic Highlands, NJ
|
Re: 402 head/shower drains
After 31 years the Attwood bilge pump in the Attwood shower sump gave up the ghost. Not a problem except Attwood no longer makes a drop in bilge pump that fits. To top it off, they no longer make the shower sump that was installed in my 362. And to add to the joy of boat ownership no one that I can find makes a shower sump box that will fit into the space between the engine and a floor. My solution, a work in progress, is to wall off a section of the bilge and install a small Whale low profile gusher bilge pump and pump it back through the sink drain. Other more pressing projects have superceed this one on the priority list.
Dave Second Star S362 #113 Fair Haven, NY/Lake Ontario
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 11, 2025, at 6:37?AM, David Short, SV One Timer, 1997 362, Mt Desert, ME via groups.io <dhs.short@...> wrote:
Same on 362. Drain to bilge bad idea. Real bad.?On Mar 11, 2025, at 6:33?AM, Jim Gregory via groups.io <jgregor1.jg@...> wrote:
? On hull 32 the shower drain goes through a filter then to a pump then out the sink drain. The pump is fused at the main panel and has a switch in the shower. I have no idea where the head compartment drains to. I imagine it finds its way to the keel sump. Both drains are below the water line and would have to be pumped UP to exit a through hull as in the case of my shower drain.? -- Jim Gregory
Sabre 402 #32
Milford CT
--?Dave ShortSV One Timer 1997 S362Mt Desert, ME
|
Re: 402 head/shower drains
On our 402 the shower drain goes to a strainer with a screen in it
then to a pump and into the head sink drain.
The pump switch is next to the door for the wet locker in the shower
and the strainer and pump are under the head sink.
The head area drain drains into the bilge.
Michael
Wind Walker
S402-097
On 3/10/2025 9:09 PM, retbc5 via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hey all. ?New 402 owner here... ?Today, I noticed when water
drains from the head or shower floor drain, the water enters the
bilge area under the water heater. ?If there is enough water, it
travels into the bilge where the dripless is and eventually to
the bilge pump. ?Is this normal for a 402 (or any other model?).
?It seems like the drain lines would enter a thru hull just like
the sinks. ?Attached is a photo with two white lines marked on
it showing the two drain lines and a red line that shows the
direction of travel to the bilge pump.
he showere
?
Thanks in advance
Scott
Lady Superfine (Formerly Serenade) Hull #56
|
Michael L
knightinnc
Tim Rivard
Foster Lee
Keith Bucklen
Tom
Jordan
Augustin
Andy Keturakis