If anyone has rack handles that would fit a SAE 2600 that they are willing to sell please contact me. sjohnston1@... Thanks! Steve

for an update on this. I figured out which IC is which as far as u1,u2,etc and have further dialed in the problem (I think) with no incoming signal starting with u6 (the first IC to receive a signal if there was a signal there) I probe it's inputs and outputs and as expected there is no signal but when I get to the inputs and out put for #3 (this is pins 8,9, and 10) it kind of blows up my oscilloscope, then probing the inputs and outputs of #4 it's back to normal probing shows no signal. The #3 output is sent to u7 so that input and output also blows up the scope that's fed to uc8 so that blows up the scope. I don't know if this is the proper term but I would say an IC is oscillating but it seems like any of the IC's could be causing that and it's either feeding that oscillation back to the previous IC or feeding it forward to the next IC or if it was uc 7 it could be feeding the oscillation forward to IC 8 and backward to IC 6. The signal is only going thru a resistor or 2 and a cap or 2 , there's no diodes at that point to block a signal from going backwards, so I'm assuming the signal can just go where ever it wants to go. Keep in mind this is with no input to the inputs of the unit, I just turn on the unit ,probe away getting no signals but then hit one of the channels of the ic's and wham the screen on my scope blows up. So that's where I'm at with it at this point. If it makes any sense. I'm thinking that someone that has worked on these units probably knows exactly what's going on or has a pretty good idea. My thought was just to somehow disconnect pins 8,9 and 10 of u6 and then probe those pins and see if that ic is blowing up the scope, if it still does I know it's bad and I replace it, but if it shows nothing then I move onto u7 etc. The only thing with that is I'm not sure how to go about removing pins 8 9 and 10 from the circuit? Removing the entire chip was one thought or I also thought of snipping those pins and put a tiny wedge under the chip to make sure they are not making contact and then do my checking and if its not the culprit I could just solder the pins back together. I've already ordered replacement chips and sockets for them. When I change IC's I put sockets in figuring if I ever need to replace it again it makes the job so much simpler.
?? So That's where I'm at. As always any help is much appreciated. Thanks for your response.

The majority of the ICs are RC4136 opamps with a few LM339 comparators sprinkled in. I have 5000A myself but never had to work on it, yet. Obtaining those ICs is no problem if one is found to be bad, what concerns me are the FETs, Q4,5 and 6. Q4 may not be too hard to find but not sure about Q5 and 6. I'll try to figure out they are.

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I used just a normal $15.00 - $20.00 power strip on some of my seldom used systems. Then all you have to do is push on the red power switch on the power strip and away you go.

I currently have a sae 5000 and 2 sae 5000a's. one 5000a works properly one 5000a works properly on one channel but the other channel passes no sound when in the processing mode and the 5000 passes sound in the processing mode but does not remove the clicks. Also on that there seems to be a faint high pitched tone in one channel. I have an oscilloscope and I went thru the working unit probing each I.C. and making note of what I get. For a signal I just put a mp3 of a sine wave with a simulated record skip on it so the working unit is trying to remove that skip, I can here the skip attempting to be removed with the invert button. I have probed the 5000 unit and I see discrepancies in my scope waveforms but my problem is I'm stuck at that point. The pc board isn't labeled the ic's as u1,u2,etc they just label 3 ic's with the sae part number and the other 5 with their sae part number, so my next step was going to be try to figure out what ic's are what by just following the board traces from each pin of an ic to it's component it's connected to and see if I can figure which ic is which. I'm not good at reading that schematic but I really haven't studied it . I imagine there are people that can just look at it and almost immediately see what's going on but that's not me. I work on the old rca selectavision players but I have service manuals for them and they go into great detail on how to find the problems, so I have pretty good luck working on them, but to go at a repair like these sae 5000 A little guidance may go a long way for me.
???? I was hoping someone may have some pointers for me. If it matters, the sae 5000 looked to be set up for 220 volt operation even though there was no sticker on the back indicating that but I changed it back to 110 volt and also added an on off switch. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I have found that today’s preamps do not have switched outlets, which poses problems as I contemplate a newer preamp. My SAE MARK IVC has no power switch and was designed to plug into a switched outlet. I have also learned that some people have a power “ purifier “ to clean up the house power coming into their sound system. Any elegant solutions to my problem that don’t cost a small fortune such as the power “ purifiers “?

Thanks

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i have used mark at absolute sound for several of my sae and mcintosh stuff. he does really good work and is always available to talk to. if i recall was he not one of just a couple of dudes who mr bongiorno recommended for working his stuff? you said mark at audiosonic is he a different mark? the mark i have used is in minneapolis.

-len

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Luckily there not that many "special" parts in SAE, GAS, or SUMO preamps and amplifiers, the tuners are different story. I just finished a MKVI tuner a few weeks ago for the original owner, lots of special RF/IF parts in that unit. It did take a couple tries to get the correct O'ring for the tuning mechanism, McMaster-Carr to the rescue.

Kind of fun in some ways, but there was definitely some frustration involved!

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Great detective work.

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Tom-

I hope I’m not posting something everyone already knows, but I wanted to share my recent experience tracking down a balance slider for my 3022. After many google searches, I stumbled across a vendor that was selling unidentified slide pots that had the same physical appearance as my dual element,100k balance slider. The tip of my slide pot lever was broken off so I purchased the 50k pot that was available. I was able to rebuild the pot by swapping the lever/contact part. While I had the original pot out I was able to see the p/n and manufacturer. Need a magnifier, and good light but it’s there! Alps p/n 84M-100kMN. There is someone selling these on eeeeeebay if anybody is looking for one. Just search that part number. Side note: Bourns makes one that would work, but I would have to order 500 since no one stocks them!