|
Fabulous work...and explanation(s)!
?
Quick question: why the Kadee 5 and not an "S scale" coupler? Not that it matters, I'm simply curious...
?
Mark in Oregon
|
Mark,
I know it¡¯s sounds crazy but it¡¯s not a simple answer. There was a lot of factors that determined the number five up in front.
?
?I haven¡¯t decided whether or not it¡¯s going to be a front end switching yard goat locomotive or if it¡¯s gonna be a road locomotive. What I¡¯m referring to ?is will I make a step pilot or a boiler tube pilot. If I go yard host it will get a 802 only because it makes it easier to uncouple with a pick or a stick magnet. One other thing is my Overland 0-8-0 that I use for a yard goat has developed a gear noise and is now out of service. The replacement gear arrived today from NWSL. How that repair turns out will also determine the use of this locomotive..?
?
2. The brass pilot deck casting was designed for a number five and it didn¡¯t take a whole lot of filing to make it work. Yes I did get the full coupler spring in the pocket so that the number five has all its action and delay. The screw head that I used is a pan head and I wanted it to be flush with the top of the beam so that there¡¯s nothing that shows from the side.
?
?3. The cost of an 802 versus a free number five left over from my HO-Sn3 days weighed in a lot.
?
?
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
?Today in between painting projects I went digging through all my inventory for parts to continue building the Mutt. I was going to roll the boiler, but then I discovered this one and somebody had previously soldered the cab bulkhead in a different location so I had to un-solder that and they also soldered the smoke box front and I¡¯m OK with that right now. The tender shall I never even knew SSLNS made one like this. I¡¯ve decided to go with it just because I really like the shape. Why scratch build something when you¡¯ve already got store-bought parts to build one.
?
I did have a few more issues to work out of the mechanism for operation's. This locomotive is pretty much been designated to 1 yard for switching cars, and I discovered that there was too much slop in the tender truck bolsters that allowed the coupler to be misaligned with the rolling stock coupler so I had to make some bushings to close up that gap. The next thing I had was the second axle on the front truck for whatever reason was out of gauge and I had to reset that. It only derailed when I wasn¡¯t looking or I had friends over. Go figure. Now this has become a very, very reliable switching locomotive and that¡¯s probably where it¡¯s gonna stay. The reason I say that is because I haven¡¯t decided how to do the pilot. Do I do steps like a switch locomotive or do I do a boiler tube front like I would do a road engine. Still haven¡¯t quite settled. ?
I have a DH 126 decoder in it and this decoder is amazing for 18 bucks on sale. It also has the plug for a current keeper. at this point, the locomotive doesn¡¯t need it and I¡¯m debating whether I want to put sound in it.
?
In this picture, the boiler, tender shell and cab are all just sitting there. I¡¯m working out their locations and proportions. I¡¯m really starting to like the way this thing looks. I also want to say that this locomotive is not really following any specific prototype, it is just all the things that I know from building specific prototypes that it needs to be acceptable. I¡¯m really having fun just freelancing it.?  --
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
MIke, looking good. If I was using it just for switching, I'd do footboards for the pilot and the rear of the tender. Give your brakemen a ride so they don't need to walk all the time.
Dave Heine
On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 11:18?AM Mike Swederska via <MikeSscale= [email protected]> wrote: ?Today in between painting projects I went digging through all my inventory for parts to continue building the Mutt. I was going to roll the boiler, but then I discovered this one and somebody had previously soldered the cab bulkhead in a different location so I had to un-solder that and they also soldered the smoke box front and I¡¯m OK with that right now. The tender shall I never even knew SSLNS made one like this. I¡¯ve decided to go with it just because I really like the shape. Why scratch build something when you¡¯ve already got store-bought parts to build one.
?
I did have a few more issues to work out of the mechanism for operation's. This locomotive is pretty much been designated to 1 yard for switching cars, and I discovered that there was too much slop in the tender truck bolsters that allowed the coupler to be misaligned with the rolling stock coupler so I had to make some bushings to close up that gap. The next thing I had was the second axle on the front truck for whatever reason was out of gauge and I had to reset that. It only derailed when I wasn¡¯t looking or I had friends over. Go figure. Now this has become a very, very reliable switching locomotive and that¡¯s probably where it¡¯s gonna stay. The reason I say that is because I haven¡¯t decided how to do the pilot. Do I do steps like a switch locomotive or do I do a boiler tube front like I would do a road engine. Still haven¡¯t quite settled. ?
I have a DH 126 decoder in it and this decoder is amazing for 18 bucks on sale. It also has the plug for a current keeper. at this point, the locomotive doesn¡¯t need it and I¡¯m debating whether I want to put sound in it.
?
In this picture, the boiler, tender shell and cab are all just sitting there. I¡¯m working out their locations and proportions. I¡¯m really starting to like the way this thing looks. I also want to say that this locomotive is not really following any specific prototype, it is just all the things that I know from building specific prototypes that it needs to be acceptable. I¡¯m really having fun just freelancing it.?  --
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
David,
Thanks for the suggestion. I was leaning that way but just could not pull the trigger. They are much easier to make. The only real reason for not going that way was because the tender frame was already painted. But that is no big deal.?
Stay tuned.?
ms
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
MIke, looking good. If I was using it just for switching, I'd do footboards for the pilot and the rear of the tender. Give your brakemen a ride so they don't need to walk all the time.
Dave Heine
On Wed, Dec 4, 2024 at 11:18?AM Mike Swederska via
<MikeSscale= [email protected]> wrote:
?Today in between painting projects I went digging through all my inventory for parts to continue building the Mutt. I was going to roll the boiler, but then I discovered this one and somebody had previously soldered the cab bulkhead in a different location
so I had to un-solder that and they also soldered the smoke box front and I¡¯m OK with that right now. The tender shall I never even knew SSLNS made one like this. I¡¯ve decided to go with it just because I really like the shape. Why scratch build something
when you¡¯ve already got store-bought parts to build one.
?
I did have a few more issues to work out of the mechanism for operation's. This locomotive is pretty much been designated to 1 yard for switching cars, and I discovered that there was too much slop in the tender truck bolsters that allowed the coupler
to be misaligned with the rolling stock coupler so I had to make some bushings to close up that gap. The next thing I had was the second axle on the front truck for whatever reason was out of gauge and I had to reset that. It only derailed when I wasn¡¯t looking
or I had friends over. Go figure. Now this has become a very, very reliable switching locomotive and that¡¯s probably where it¡¯s gonna stay. The reason I say that is because I haven¡¯t decided how to do the pilot. Do I do steps like a switch locomotive or do
I do a boiler tube front like I would do a road engine. Still haven¡¯t quite settled. ?
I have a DH 126 decoder in it and this decoder is amazing for 18 bucks on sale. It also has the plug for a current keeper. at this point, the locomotive doesn¡¯t need it and I¡¯m debating whether I want to put sound in it.
?
In this picture, the boiler, tender shell and cab are all just sitting there. I¡¯m working out their locations and proportions. I¡¯m really starting to like the way this thing looks. I also want to say that this locomotive is not really following any specific
prototype, it is just all the things that I know from building specific prototypes that it needs to be acceptable. I¡¯m really having fun just freelancing it.?
 --
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
-- Mike Swederska Meramec Valley Lines Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16 Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
"...stay tuned".
?
Absolutely!
?
Mark in Oregon
|
Please keep us updated on your project - it looks very interesting!
|
?will do.?Mike Swederska?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 5, 2024, at 9:43?PM, Michael.McConnell via groups.io <msmcconn@...> wrote:
? Please keep us updated on your project - it looks very interesting!
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Mike, I agree with Dave , foot boards for pilot and tender is the best way to go.? You are turning a sow's ear into a silk purse as the saying goes. Thanks for sharing your model work with the group.
Best, Luther "S"tephens
|
Today I sat down and started to build the tender for the Mutt. I did take some photos as I went today to post to those that are following the build. The wrapper is a photo etching from SSL&S and the deck is a stamping. I had never seen a photo etched wrapper from SSL&S and was very surprised at all its details etched into it. I did fabricated the floor, coal bunker front of coal bunker and top of the water legs. The deck needed fabrication also to fit how I wanted it to go on the wrapper.
?
?
The deck was soldered first from inside, then the floor was soldered in from the bottom. Next was the front coal bunker between the two water legs. All my tenders have removable coal sheets to give access to the inside of the tender for any wiring for lights, DCC decoders and sound speakers. Latter if I did put a speaker in the tender that is when I would cut the appropriate hole in the floor.? ?The Coal sheet was made to sit on the front of the coal bunker between the water legs and the back of the tender deck. Then the water leg tops as one piece were made to tie everything together in front and then soldered in place. The tender shell is now sound tight and ready for detailing. There will be two holes drilled in the bottom coming up through the frame into the tender floor to attach the frame and shell together. Everything is always kept removable. As I have built enough of my own to know that keeping it easy to take apart for maintenance is key in designing and building from the beginning.?
?
I forgot to say that all the needed brass was precleaned before starting the project. This made soldering prep easier. Once done the tender shell went into a bath of Simple Green full strength for five minutes in a heated sonic cleaner. This got all the fluxes and excess solder off and out of the inside of the tender shell. Rinsed in water and that is what you see in the pictures. I most likely will not get back to the tender for several days.?
?
?
?
?
?
?
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Gentlemen, I'll testify that Mike knows
how to solder seams in "tender makin--senior Class".? When I was
switching from Dynatrol to DCC, I was attempting to remove a large
receiver from the tender wall of my custom made Mikado (yes the
same one in the NASG/RMC ad).? The double stick foam tape I used
was way too strong so I ended up breaking the seams to the point
of turning it back into random parts.? Mike took on the
responsibility of making everything one piece again!?
Bob Werre
Phototraxx
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Today I sat down and started to build the tender for the
Mutt. I did take some photos as I went today to post to those
that are following the build. The wrapper is a photo etching
from SSL&S and the deck is a stamping. I had never seen a
photo etched wrapper from SSL&S and was very surprised at
all its details etched into it. I did fabricated the floor, coal
bunker front of coal bunker and top of the water legs. The deck
needed fabrication also to fit how I wanted it to go on the
wrapper.
?
This project did not take long since I knew what I wanted and
have learned from my mistakes building other tenders. I have
just under a full day in it to the point in the pictures. To
some modelers dismay, I don't use sophisticated tools to make my
tenders. Since I get asked often as to what I use to cut brass
sheet or bending I took a couple pictures of the paper cutter
and two wood blocks. I also use a Pana Vise.? The parts were
soldered with 446F solder paste  using
a torch.? ?
The deck was soldered first from inside, then the floor was
soldered in from the bottom. Next was the front coal bunker
between the two water legs. All my tenders have removable coal
sheets to give access to the inside of the tender for any wiring
for lights, DCC decoders and sound speakers. Latter if I did put
a speaker in the tender that is when I would cut the appropriate
hole in the floor.? ?The Coal sheet was made to sit on the front
of the coal bunker between the water legs and the back of the
tender deck. Then the water leg tops as one piece were made to
tie everything together in front and then soldered in place. The
tender shell is now sound tight and ready for detailing. There
will be two holes drilled in the bottom coming up through the
frame into the tender floor to attach the frame and shell
together. Everything is always kept removable. As I have built
enough of my own to know that keeping it easy to take apart for
maintenance is key in designing and building from the
beginning.?
?
I forgot to say that all the needed brass was precleaned
before starting the project. This made soldering prep easier.
Once done the tender shell went into a bath of Simple Green full
strength for five minutes in a heated sonic cleaner. This got
all the fluxes and excess solder off and out of the inside of
the tender shell. Rinsed in water and that is what you see in
the pictures. I most likely will not get back to the tender for
several days.?
?
?
?
?
?
?
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model
railroading fun!
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 10, 2024, at 1:37?PM, Bob Werre via groups.io <bob@...> wrote:
?
Gentlemen, I'll testify that Mike knows
how to solder seams in "tender makin--senior Class".? When I was
switching from Dynatrol to DCC, I was attempting to remove a large
receiver from the tender wall of my custom made Mikado (yes the
same one in the NASG/RMC ad).? The double stick foam tape I used
was way too strong so I ended up breaking the seams to the point
of turning it back into random parts.? Mike took on the
responsibility of making everything one piece again!?
Bob Werre
Phototraxx
Today I sat down and started to build the tender for the
Mutt. I did take some photos as I went today to post to those
that are following the build. The wrapper is a photo etching
from SSL&S and the deck is a stamping. I had never seen a
photo etched wrapper from SSL&S and was very surprised at
all its details etched into it. I did fabricated the floor, coal
bunker front of coal bunker and top of the water legs. The deck
needed fabrication also to fit how I wanted it to go on the
wrapper.
?
This project did not take long since I knew what I wanted and
have learned from my mistakes building other tenders. I have
just under a full day in it to the point in the pictures. To
some modelers dismay, I don't use sophisticated tools to make my
tenders. Since I get asked often as to what I use to cut brass
sheet or bending I took a couple pictures of the paper cutter
and two wood blocks. I also use a Pana Vise.? The parts were
soldered with 446F solder paste <IMG_4424.jpg> using
a torch.? ?
The deck was soldered first from inside, then the floor was
soldered in from the bottom. Next was the front coal bunker
between the two water legs. All my tenders have removable coal
sheets to give access to the inside of the tender for any wiring
for lights, DCC decoders and sound speakers. Latter if I did put
a speaker in the tender that is when I would cut the appropriate
hole in the floor.? ?The Coal sheet was made to sit on the front
of the coal bunker between the water legs and the back of the
tender deck. Then the water leg tops as one piece were made to
tie everything together in front and then soldered in place. The
tender shell is now sound tight and ready for detailing. There
will be two holes drilled in the bottom coming up through the
frame into the tender floor to attach the frame and shell
together. Everything is always kept removable. As I have built
enough of my own to know that keeping it easy to take apart for
maintenance is key in designing and building from the
beginning.?
?
I forgot to say that all the needed brass was precleaned
before starting the project. This made soldering prep easier.
Once done the tender shell went into a bath of Simple Green full
strength for five minutes in a heated sonic cleaner. This got
all the fluxes and excess solder off and out of the inside of
the tender shell. Rinsed in water and that is what you see in
the pictures. I most likely will not get back to the tender for
several days.?
?
?
?
?
?
?
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model
railroading fun!
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Today¡¯s progress on the tender includes the drop-down step on the rear of the tender frame on each side. The electrical conduit running down the side of the tender to the rear light. The four brackets were made, and soldered to the tender deck to create a friction fit of the doghouse to the deck. The dog house has remained and will remain removable. The rear light was chosen because of its larger size. I thought about building a bracket and putting the batwing headlight on the bracket, like all, my Mopac locomotives have on the tender. But I also thought, since this is a switcher, and if I was standing on the footboard of the tender, I¡¯d want as much light down by the couplers as I could get. So I chose the larger light, and I set it on the tender deck instead of putting in a higher up over the top box cars on the bracket. I also put the horizontal hand railing along the back of the tender for the brakeman to walk the beam of the frame behind the tender tank. I also fabricated the tender tank to frame brackets on the back and solder those to the tank. They¡¯re just resting on the frame.
?
as I moved to the boiler, I realized that the boiler I had was pretty much a straight boiler and I really didn¡¯t care for it. So I went scrounging and found to my happiness, a bronze boiler with the correct shape and size for this model. So I will be using the bronze boiler for this guy and in the upcoming days I¡¯ll start making the rapper for the smoke box. In the meantime, I¡¯m finishing up the front pilot with pictures to follow.
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Mike the steps look?great . The tender is perfect as always.
Luther ¡°S ¡°tephens --
|
  
The first picture shows the locomotive being operated on the layout through all of its paces and grades. From my past experiences working with the bronze boiler weight I was concerned that the smaller motor in this locomotive would not have enough gumption and withdraw too much amperage. But to my surprise, it barely drew4 to a half amp at the most during operations even over the grade. Since it was not carrying a train, which I don¡¯t believe would be more than eight cars 10 max. I went ahead and held a coupler on the tender until the wheels broke loose. I believe this would simulate the amount of amperage. It would take at the most. Through the DCC specialties a?meter the locomotive never drew more than 3/4 of an amp to create wheel slip. The way to the boiler gave it a heck of a lot of tractive effort. This locomotive is going to be great for switching in the yard and may even get some mainline usage.
The next picture shows the boiler sitting on the frame starting to get lined up. It¡¯s not been attached or anything like that just trying to determine where the cylinder exhaust pipes would breach the center of the smoke box and length of the firebox on the back. I really like the taper on this boiler its what I was going for when I was looking to create a boiler out of wrap. Right now the boiler is sitting down on the drivers but when it¡¯s done, it will be sitting with the fire box just above the tires on the rear driver. The cab is soldered up all four corners and has been formed to fit snuggly over the top of the Crown sheet. I haven¡¯t quite determined how far back I want the cab to sit as I¡¯m thinking about doing a back head on the locomotive for GP.
The last picture shows the brakeman on the deck of the tender next to the doghouse really cool. That¡¯s probably where he¡¯s gonna ride once the locomotive is completed. When I painted the inside of the dog house, I decided to go with a darker green then I normally do more on the seafoam with the other locomotives. I think that¡¯s gonna kinda set this locomotive apart from the Mopac locomotives I¡¯ve built for the layout since this one¡¯s going to be a Meramec Valley lines locomotive.
So if you¡¯ve read this far down, I have a question for you guys. The question is I¡¯m thinking about air pumps since this is a small locomotive. I really wasn¡¯t thinking about a cross compound but to singular air pumps like you would possibly see on an older steam engine or in narrow gauge steam engine in the C class. So the question is which air compressor would you guys put on the side of the boiler. And more importantly, when a locomotive is being used to switch in the yard, they don¡¯t pump the air up on cars when they move them do they? So I wouldn¡¯t really need a lot of air pressure in storage so I¡¯m thinking of one air tank under the running board a large one, but not one on each side. Again question to the masses.
Mike Swederska?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 11, 2024, at 5:37?PM, Mike S Scale <mikesscale@...> wrote:
? Here is some more pictures to gaze upon showing today and yesterday¡¯s progress. I did cut down the coal slop sheet radius. It was to high. Now there is a 802 instead of a 5 on the pilot.? <image0.jpeg> <image1.jpeg> <image2.jpeg> <image3.jpeg> <image4.jpeg> <image6.jpeg> Mike Swederska? On Dec 10, 2024, at 1:37?PM, Bob Werre via groups.io <bob@...> wrote:
?
Gentlemen, I'll testify that Mike knows
how to solder seams in "tender makin--senior Class".? When I was
switching from Dynatrol to DCC, I was attempting to remove a large
receiver from the tender wall of my custom made Mikado (yes the
same one in the NASG/RMC ad).? The double stick foam tape I used
was way too strong so I ended up breaking the seams to the point
of turning it back into random parts.? Mike took on the
responsibility of making everything one piece again!?
Bob Werre
Phototraxx
Today I sat down and started to build the tender for the
Mutt. I did take some photos as I went today to post to those
that are following the build. The wrapper is a photo etching
from SSL&S and the deck is a stamping. I had never seen a
photo etched wrapper from SSL&S and was very surprised at
all its details etched into it. I did fabricated the floor, coal
bunker front of coal bunker and top of the water legs. The deck
needed fabrication also to fit how I wanted it to go on the
wrapper.
?
This project did not take long since I knew what I wanted and
have learned from my mistakes building other tenders. I have
just under a full day in it to the point in the pictures. To
some modelers dismay, I don't use sophisticated tools to make my
tenders. Since I get asked often as to what I use to cut brass
sheet or bending I took a couple pictures of the paper cutter
and two wood blocks. I also use a Pana Vise.? The parts were
soldered with 446F solder paste <IMG_4424.jpg> using
a torch.? ?
The deck was soldered first from inside, then the floor was
soldered in from the bottom. Next was the front coal bunker
between the two water legs. All my tenders have removable coal
sheets to give access to the inside of the tender for any wiring
for lights, DCC decoders and sound speakers. Latter if I did put
a speaker in the tender that is when I would cut the appropriate
hole in the floor.? ?The Coal sheet was made to sit on the front
of the coal bunker between the water legs and the back of the
tender deck. Then the water leg tops as one piece were made to
tie everything together in front and then soldered in place. The
tender shell is now sound tight and ready for detailing. There
will be two holes drilled in the bottom coming up through the
frame into the tender floor to attach the frame and shell
together. Everything is always kept removable. As I have built
enough of my own to know that keeping it easy to take apart for
maintenance is key in designing and building from the
beginning.?
?
I forgot to say that all the needed brass was precleaned
before starting the project. This made soldering prep easier.
Once done the tender shell went into a bath of Simple Green full
strength for five minutes in a heated sonic cleaner. This got
all the fluxes and excess solder off and out of the inside of
the tender shell. Rinsed in water and that is what you see in
the pictures. I most likely will not get back to the tender for
several days.?
?
?
?
?
?
?
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model
railroading fun!
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Well, in my opinion, you never can have too much air.? Air compressors don't run constantly, only after the reservoirs drop below a set pressure. (I forgot what it is.)
?
I would suggest two single phase air compressors as shown on my HO model below.? Prototypically, this would allow to pump up faster.
?
Even small locomotives benefited from dual single air compressors.
?
Rich G(ajnak)
|
Rich,
thanks. I was leaning on two singles. I have some in inventory, I think. The also take me back to my narrow gauge days.?
--
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
This is such a great thread... :-)
?
Mark in Oregon
|
Here are some more pictures of this evenings progress.?
The cab is soldered together. The floor was fabricated to fit the cab and against the back of the boiler. It to is soldered to the cab bottom. There is now both crew seats made and soldered together and soldered to the floor. The cab is just sitting on the boiler which is sitting on cylinders and motor. I can also now see that I will have to lengthen the draw bar to get back the three feet spacing between the tender and cab.?
Next will be drilling, tapping the boiler to bolt it to the cylinders and then make a bracket to solder to the cab floor and drill and tap to the rear of the frame.?
Next will be cutting the fire box up to clear the top of the rear drivers and make ash pans.?
Once all that is done I will make the deck extension on the tender finishing it up. The tender will get painted after that.?
I will then make the removable back head covering the motor.?
Mike Swederska
Meramec Valley Lines
Modeling Mopac equipment in 3/16
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough! Keep model railroading fun!
|
Looking good Mike.? I'm looking forward to the next installment.
Tommy?
|
Mark Mugnai
Bob Werre
Tom Lennon