If you are expecting a box from me it is now in the capable hands of USPS.

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A few things about the parts... remove the raft and supports. Most used light supports so it should be easy. Paint everything NOW as soon as you get them.

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Cutting the GP35 nose is by far best with a milling machine. See first photo. That gets you flush with the cab roof.

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For the SD60 draft gear

Tap the hole for a 2-56

Do your minor filing and fitting into the shell opening. Remove shell material from the top to not change coupler height. Glue the draft gear in as flush as possible. I use Zap A Gap green glue. Have not pulled a draft gear out yet. Some?quick?sanding of the interior of the draft gear may be needed after the glue dries.

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On the cab end only you have to mill a slot to about half the length of the mounting screw. See photo. If you have a milling machine I also removed about .020 from this end for a lil more clearance. The drive is SNUG fitting.

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Put the 2-56 flat head screw in the lid. Add the coupler. Insert the spring in the coupler against the 2-56 screw. This IS a little tricky but slide the coupler into the draft gear and screw it in snug but do not over-tighten.

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Thank You,
Bill Lane

Modeling the Mighty Pennsy & PRSL in 1957 in S Scale since 1988

See my finished models at:

Look at what has been made in PRR in S Scale!

PRR Builders Photos Bought, Sold & Traded
(Trading is MUCH preferred)
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***Join the PRR T&HS***
The other members are not ALL like me!



Join the Pennsylvania Reading Seashore Lines Historical Society
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