开云体育

Can one of the QMX+ builders tell me: 1) the dimensions of the main PCB 2) the dimensions of the front panel PCB After building and using the terrific little QMX, I am considering building the QMX+ but using my own enclosure. Thanks! 73 Robert VE7ZN

Can anyone provide an example of how high the mic input noise level is in the terminal tool with without the mic attached in firmware 1.0.2? I see 3 grey bars in the mic test with the gain set to +50db, which looks significantly higher than Hans' from the manual. I'm trying to determine if I have an internal noise issue with my unit.

I have corrected all the issues with my enameled torroid soldering joints, so those look reasonable now on all bands. That said, I have no power whatsoever when pressing "T" on the diagnostics screen. I am using 3 cell LIPOs charged to 11.9vdc (checked after charging with multimeter) for power. T501 wound for 12v. - Initial startup was at 7v, just to be safe. No issues or magic smoke so slowly raised voltage to 12V with no issues. No pops or anything else. - Checked T507 by removing and testing, then reinstalling. - Removed and rewound T501, RWTST, to eliminate concerns of over twisting the wires. - Rewound T401 and checked for continuity on the 3 pairs, then installed it. - T502 has continuity and the correct amount of wraps. - The dummyload I am using is one I purchased along with the kit. Assembly was enjoyable and it measures 49.5 ohms. When I press "T" I get 0.0 power. I checked the SWR protection set it higher, and restarted the radio, but still get 0.0 on the diagnostics screen. I then turned the SWR protection completely, then restarted the radio and still 0.0. The power transistors DO get slightly warm, but not suddenly. From what I can tell, everything is as it should be, but I'm still getting no power to the dummyload. I have no actual antennas yet, but should have one completed in a couple hours. I checked several patch cords (between radio and dummyload) and they all are working correctly, but still no power. What should I be checking now? Is there a test procedure for this specific issue? There has to be others who have encountered this before... Thanks again, btw... Ahand59

All of my I/Q sweeps look textbook, with the exception of one...160 meters, where the I&Q are way off in both offset and amplitude. Mind you, in 35 years I've not had a single 160m contact, so addressing this is not a high priority! Still, the perfectionist in me wants to get it sorted out at some point. Here is the offending sweep. It seems like the trifilar wound toroid is the usual suspect in cases where multiple bands are involved, but like I said, the other bands look great with nice sine waves (a little messier as the frequency goes up, as Hans mentions in the build manual) with the perfect 90° offset. Anyhow, please take a look and if you have any thoughts, please share them! Bandpass filter? FWIW, power output on 160m is excellent, maybe too good at almost 6 watts.

Based on the large red warning on page 4 of the QMX+ assembly manual it is clear that Hans intended us to power the QMX (and presumably the QMX+) from 9V and tolerates us modifying the rig to operate 12V at our own risk. It is also clear from the discussions I have been able to find that most people opt for a 12V supply (along with various hacks and bodges to actually run it from 13.8 V or more). Given that, for a real world battery I'm going to need a buck/boost converter to get a stable supply that won't kill the rig 9V is just as easy to get as 12V (Assuming I go for a buck/boost converter rather than the three diode bodge) Given that a hardware choice has to be made early on in the build process I'd rather not have to change this at a later point so would like to pick the right option from the start. Has anyone had issues with running either 9V or 12V that might make one a preferred choice over the other? I've seen Druck converters recommended but here in the UK the choice seems to be limited just one buck converter and that needs a 1.5V overhead so would need a fully charged LiFe or Lead Acid battery to exceed the 13.5V I'd need to supply to get a 12V output. If I go for a 3S LiPo battery the voltage range is between 9 and 12.6V (3V-4.2V per cell) making 9V operation or a boost converter essential. There are other devices on eBay that claim to have both buck and boost capability but I have no idea how noisy they'd be.

Searched but did not find anything - Completed the QMX+ build and was assembling into the case when I found that the front panel PCB will not fit into the case. The case is 96mm inside. The case is 99mm between the grooves The front metal panel is 106mm at the widest point The front PCB is 105mm across. Basically I am trying to squish 105mm into a 96mm opening. Not going to happen. Photos are attached -- Since it is completely built, should I try and Dremel 10mm off the front PCB? TIA Michael, KG5UMH