QCX Manual

Vernon Matheson #19179 ?Hi Hans, ? Just wondering if there are any changes coming to the QCX assembly and operating manual version 1.08 in the next short while. My kit should be here in a day or two so will be printing it off soon. ? Thanks ? Vernon ?
Hans Summers All Messages By This Member #19181 No changes planned, Vernon 73 Hans G0UPL? ? toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Dec 6, 2017 20:52, "Vernon Matheson" <vmath@...> wrote: ?Hi Hans, ? Just wondering if there are any changes coming to the QCX assembly and operating manual version 1.08 in the next short while. My kit should be here in a day or two so will be printing it off soon. ? Thanks ? Vernon ?
Keith VE7GDH All Messages By This Member #19187 Vernon VE1VDM wrote... My kit should be here in a day or two so will be printing it off soon... I didn't print any of the manuals. I just opened them up on a tablet (iPad) and used it while working on the QCX etc. I'm about half way through the second one, but haven't wound the toroids for the first one yet. Procrastination? Fear? I'll decide tomorrow. -- 73 Keith VE7GDH
Shirley Dulcey KE1L All Messages By This Member #19189 Most of the toroids are easy. The only challenging one is T1; it takes a bit of work to get all the wires in the right holes. toggle quoted message Show quoted text On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 1:44 PM, Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...> wrote: Vernon VE1VDM wrote... My kit should be here in a day or two so will be printing it off soon... I didn't print any of the manuals. I just opened them up on a tablet (iPad) and used it while working on the QCX etc. I'm about half way through the second one, but haven't wound the toroids for the first one yet. Procrastination? Fear? I'll decide tomorrow. -- 73 Keith VE7GDH
Keith VE7GDH All Messages By This Member #19196 Shirley KE1L wrote... Most of the toroids are easy... Thanks for the encouragement. I started with the 80M QCX. I hear those ones are easier to wind - hi! I think I'll wind the toroids for the 40M version first (half way done) before going back and finishing off the first one. -- 73 Keith VE7GDH
[email protected] #19206 Lets us know how the toroids go Keith. I got my kit last week? and just getting ready to start assembling on the weekend. I have printed the whole manual. 73 - Hew VA7HU toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 2017-12-06 10:44 AM, Keith VE7GDH wrote: Vernon VE1VDM wrote... My kit should be here in a day or two so will be printing it off soon... I didn't print any of the manuals. I just opened them up on a tablet (iPad) and used it while working on the QCX etc. I'm about half way through the second one, but haven't wound the toroids for the first one yet. Procrastination? Fear? I'll decide tomorrow.
Keith VE7GDH All Messages By This Member #19210 Hew VA7HU wrote... I got my kit last week and just getting ready to start assembling on the weekend. I have printed the whole manual. I still haven't wound any of the toroids yet, but I have the 80M version otherwise done and and I'm about 3/4 of the way through the 40M version. Which band did you go for? As I mentioned, I've just been viewing the manuals on an iPad. I can zoom and you can put post-it notes on pages you quickly want to get to! -- 73 Keith VE7GDH
Hew Lines #19225 About 6 of us in the local club are building the 20M version as a club project. All the kits arrived last week and we are now getting organized (trying to get organized anyway) to start working on them. A couple of the gang are new to small parts kits so we are trying to do it as a group. 73 - Hew VA7HU toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 2017-12-06 9:46 PM, Keith VE7GDH wrote: Hew VA7HU wrote... I got my kit last week? and just getting ready to start assembling on the weekend. I have printed the whole manual. I still haven't wound any of the toroids yet, but I have the 80M version otherwise done and and I'm about 3/4 of the way through the 40M version. Which band did you go for? As I mentioned, I've just been viewing the manuals on an iPad. I can zoom and you can put post-it notes on pages you quickly want to get to!
Kurt Zimmerman All Messages By This Member #19229 The way I wrapped T1 was somewhat different than the way Hans described in his documentation.? What I did was start with the large secondary and wrapped it.? After getting to the end of the large secondary I made a loop about 1 1/2" in length, folding the wire tight against itself.? From there I wrapped the 2 other secondaries and the primary leaving the longer legs between each winding group.? Next I stripped the ends of the large secondary using a fine grit sandpaper (about 320 grit).? Then where I had the longer?folded?loops I snipped them apart one at a time sanding the varnish off each leg.? Finally I started with the large secondary, carefully inserting each lead into its appropriate hole.? Using a pair of hemostats I snugged each wire.? Finally starting at the large secondary I soldered the long lead.? After it was tacked I grabbed the lead with the hemos and reheated the connecting making sure it pulled the core close to the board.? I worked my way around the board tugging and soldering each lead.? ? This process is much simpler to perform than to write about.? I don't think it took any more than about 5 minutes to install.? Before trimming the excess leads I double checked each winding to insure I had conductivity.?? 72; Kurt - W2MW toggle quoted message Show quoted text -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] QCX Manual From: "Shirley Dulcey KE1L" <mark@...> Date: Wed, December 06, 2017 1:56 pm To: [email protected] Most of the toroids are easy. The only challenging one is T1; it takes a bit of work to get all the wires in the right holes. On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 1:44 PM, Keith VE7GDH <ve7gdh@...> wrote: > Vernon VE1VDM wrote... > >> My kit should be here in a day or two so will be >> printing it off soon... > > I didn't print any of the manuals. I just opened them up > on a tablet (iPad) and used it while working on the QCX etc. > I'm about half way through the second one, but haven't wound > the toroids for the first one yet. Procrastination? Fear? > I'll decide tomorrow. > > -- > 73 Keith VE7GDH > > >
Keith VE7GDH All Messages By This Member #19237 Hew VA7HU wrote... About 6 of us in the local club are building the 20M version as a club project. Mine are for 80M and 40M, so I won't have a QCX there, but I could dial my "big rig" down to 5W. We might be a bit close for 20M though. Of course, that's assuming you can send slow enough for me! Just a suggestion... I found it tricky soldering the single pin headers in place. If I was doing it again, I would probably install them right at the beginning when they weren't surrounded by other parts. Sticking the pin in some dense foam might be a way of holding it upright while putting the PCB down over the pin to solder it. I put the male pin header on the LCD display instead of the female connector (a la BITX) so I soldered the female connector on the QCX board. The stand-offs are a bit long. You would think I would have learned from the first one, but if there's a third, I'll sand about 1 mm off the stand-offs before adding the LCD display. That way, the header can just be pushed flush down onto the LCD display for soldering. With the stand-offs a bit long, I ended up pushing the pins a bit further through the plastic part of the header, so the short pins made it only just to the top of the LCD circuit. I used the LCD circuit board to push the male pins down into the connector and then soldered them. Good luck with the club project! -- 73 Keith VE7GDH
Hew Lines #19303 Not sure why they picked the 20M version. I plan to use the 20M in the trailer when we are camping (often). We spent a week on Salt Spring this summer and enjoyed it so much we will be back again this year. I plan on using a "Buddie Pole" with the 20M QCX and see how it works out. I'm going to put the rig in a Hammond project box that has a sloping front panel and will be mounting the LCD, pots and switches on the front panel (aluminum) and all the jacks on the front and back panels (plastic). I use some "play dough" that i get at the dollar store to hold the small components for soldering and it seems to work well for me. I have used small pieces of masking tape before but the play dough seems to work better. Rick VE7TK is also building one and he has a lot of experience with winding toroids so we are going to have him give as a quick presentation when we get to that point. Should be a fun project and I am going to take lots of pictures !! Hope you have a Merry Christmas and all the best in 2018. Will keep you advised how things are going. 73 - Hew toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 2017-12-07 6:55 PM, Keith VE7GDH wrote: Hew VA7HU wrote... About 6 of us in the local club are building the 20M version as a club project. Mine are for 80M and 40M, so I won't have a QCX there, but I could dial my "big rig" down to 5W. We might be a bit close for 20M though. Of course, that's assuming you can send slow enough for me! Just a suggestion... I found it tricky soldering the single pin headers in place. If I was doing it again, I would probably install them right at the beginning when they weren't surrounded by other parts. Sticking the pin in some dense foam might be a way of holding it upright while putting the PCB down over the pin to solder it. I put the male pin header on the LCD display instead of the female connector (a la BITX) so I soldered the female connector on the QCX board. The stand-offs are a bit long. You would think I would have learned from the first one, but if there's a third, I'll sand about 1 mm off the stand-offs before adding the LCD display. That way, the header can just be pushed flush down onto the LCD display for soldering. With the stand-offs a bit long, I ended up pushing the pins a bit further through the plastic part of the header, so the short pins made it only just to the top of the LCD circuit. I used the LCD circuit board to push the male pins down into the connector and then soldered them. Good luck with the club project!

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QCX Manual