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Re: QCX Manual

Hew Lines #19303 Not sure why they picked the 20M version. I plan to use the 20M in the trailer when we are camping (often). We spent a week on Salt Spring this summer and enjoyed it so much we will be back again this year. I plan on using a "Buddie Pole" with the 20M QCX and see how it works out. I'm going to put the rig in a Hammond project box that has a sloping front panel and will be mounting the LCD, pots and switches on the front panel (aluminum) and all the jacks on the front and back panels (plastic). I use some "play dough" that i get at the dollar store to hold the small components for soldering and it seems to work well for me. I have used small pieces of masking tape before but the play dough seems to work better. Rick VE7TK is also building one and he has a lot of experience with winding toroids so we are going to have him give as a quick presentation when we get to that point. Should be a fun project and I am going to take lots of pictures !! Hope you have a Merry Christmas and all the best in 2018. Will keep you advised how things are going. 73 - Hew toggle quoted message Show quoted text On 2017-12-07 6:55 PM, Keith VE7GDH wrote: Hew VA7HU wrote... About 6 of us in the local club are building the 20M version as a club project. Mine are for 80M and 40M, so I won't have a QCX there, but I could dial my "big rig" down to 5W. We might be a bit close for 20M though. Of course, that's assuming you can send slow enough for me! Just a suggestion... I found it tricky soldering the single pin headers in place. If I was doing it again, I would probably install them right at the beginning when they weren't surrounded by other parts. Sticking the pin in some dense foam might be a way of holding it upright while putting the PCB down over the pin to solder it. I put the male pin header on the LCD display instead of the female connector (a la BITX) so I soldered the female connector on the QCX board. The stand-offs are a bit long. You would think I would have learned from the first one, but if there's a third, I'll sand about 1 mm off the stand-offs before adding the LCD display. That way, the header can just be pushed flush down onto the LCD display for soldering. With the stand-offs a bit long, I ended up pushing the pins a bit further through the plastic part of the header, so the short pins made it only just to the top of the LCD circuit. I used the LCD circuit board to push the male pins down into the connector and then soldered them. Good luck with the club project!

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#19303

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