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Enjoy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsDBcFXgHbY 73 DE muhsin TA1MHS

I don't do that because some wire has enamel that just doesn't melt. Also, it smells like feet! I use a box cutter and scrape it off. I also use the Crochet Lock method to wind them. On the T41,

Randy, a couple of comments that I can give. 1) I have 2 QMX+ and 2 QMX (one low-band rev1, one mid-band rev3).? Each of these units had quite different looking plots for some bands of the

This does happen sometimes. I recall some years ago, when I was building a Heyphone, and checking each component before I fitted it, I found that an entire batch of resistors labelled 4.3 K were in

Sounds like you lost some connections to your front panel/display board.? Try re-seating the front panel in its connectors.? (Display and backlight are powered by 5V supply, and I think top row

Not correct: a solder joint may be 'ok' for DC but poor for RF (or vice-versa).? Reflowing a solder joint, especially for the toroid wires that had enamel on them, can burn off the enamel around the

My QMX+ was working but when I powered it on this morning the display backlight is not on and the display shows a row of black blocks. Does anyone have any thoughts on where to start troubleshooting.

With only one LPF installed, it is hard to know whether the fault is 'global' for all bands, or just in the one LPF - so it is harder to know where to look. If you measure resistance from cathode

Roy, I use a solder pot. The only warning is that the temperature will need some adjusting for the different sizes and types of magnet wire. If it’s too high, not only does it take off the enamel it

Gently scrape the enamel, then tin it with solder. Nothing special required. I scrape mine with sharp dikes. Once it's damaged the heat of soldering finishes it.

Joe, It is most often not useful to try and supply external 3.3V VDD - because the most common failures of 3.3V supply would also make an external supply not work. With QMX+ and over-voltage, here are

Does anyone use Solder pots for tinning and removing the enamel from the toroid leads? Any hints and tips? I see a cheap one on Amazon for about $20. Any suggestions if I should buy special solder for

Yes, instales from the beguining and continuity test from the dummy load to the T507 73 azgael

Finished my QMX+ build (9v), applied power - no smoke! Put the latest firmware on and started playing. Receiver works well, but when I run Diagnostics, the Bias SMPS shows fluctuating current (in

When testing my newly built QMX+ I was getting high SWR readings while running the diagnostics SWR test. Even when connected to a dummy load the readings were around 2.7 to 1 across all bands. I

did you install the jumper at JP501 that connects T507 to the BNC?

Thank you Jerry I have checked l511 and l507 also rewind and solder t507 double check all continuity and inspect the solder all looks good but I still have the swr at 10 on 160m. from the diagnostic

I've been wondering why some people regularly blow BS170s and the associated ICs while others don't.? Could it be how people are powering their devices? If a user has a non current limited supply,

There is an excellent stage by stage troubleshooting video on YouTube by a gentleman who uses the call sign NA5Y and that guidance got me this far. I can see gate signals like those in his video - but

Hi and thank you ... The radio was just finshed I powered up and tested buttons ect. Then I bumped the cw key to check rf power I whent back to recieve for 3 or 4 min. the screen brighted up then