Stumbled across an interesting bit of information.
I have bought some UHF? PL-259 / SO-239 connectors from Asia and found that they didn't quite fit (i.e. screw on properly) other connectors. Seems that there are two "standards" for these connectors - one metric and the other non-metric or imperial if you prefer. The two don't easily screw together.
However, what I stumbled across was a web page which describes a simple solution -?? being a threading die used to rethread the connector to the correct thread, that is at least to 'correct' a metric SO-239 to imperial.? The thread is 5/8" - 24 TPI and the dies are quite common but not at Canadian tire or Home depot. This thread is a common thread on gun barrels.? Lots of hits on eBay and Amazon for anyone so interested - prices from not too expensive to quite expensive, you get what you pay for with metal working cutting tools but these connectors are brass so the less expensive one would do quite nicely for re-threading a couple of handfuls of problem connectors.
Of course you could also re-thread the barrels of the PL-259 if that was the problem and of course there are matching 5/8" - 25 TPI taps as well.
And for the curious,the thread on SMA connectors is 1/4" - 36 tpi and taps and dies are easily available for this thread as well.
cheers, Graham ve3gtc
|
Re: GPS/U3S generated Noise
Hi Bruce.
Both qlg1's were built identically, the u3s one takes its power from the u3s, which is battery powered, the progrock one is fed from an ac psu which feeds a 7805. The progrock and receiver use the same psu but have a separate 7805 and 12v from psu. All grounds feed back to psu.
The receiver, with no antenna connected hears the progrock gps but not the u3s one. If I remove power to the progrock gps the noise stops.
Both gps have 4 core shielded cable, u3s gps has shield connected to u3s case and GPS case. Progrock gps has two shielded cables, one for power, one for 1pps connection to progrock. Both shields connected to progrock gps case and then to gps ground,?both use identical active antenna.?
Only way I can remove serial burst noise from receiver is power down progrock gps and ground 1pps connection to gps through a switch to progrock ground. I just switch gps on now and then to calibrate.
Incidentally, if I remove wired connection from gps to progrock and power both from separate power sources noise is still heard.
The only major difference between both gps is the initial power supply. I'm not well at the moment but hopefully by the weekend I'll be able to swop the GPS'S over and use both a battery supply and ac supply to see if that makes any difference or whether the second gps is simply radiating more than the first, I built the first gps board over a year ago and it has been fine, I do have another on order but it hasn't arrived yet, be interesting to see how that one behaves when built.
Andy
|
Re: Power Supply For Ultimate 6 & Clock Kit
Defunct ADSL routers often have a nice but unregulated 'big iron' transformer based PSU, of course they need a regulator but it's a small price to pay for a noiseless PSU.
Curt
Another source of inexpensive 5V wall warts is the popular cell phone chargers.?
They usually have good regulation and put out 1A.? Local Dollar Stores have them
for US$1.00 plus tax.
Arv
_._
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 3:36 PM Al Sines < sasines@...> wrote: Curt,
This is a photo of the one I got from Jameco. I think it was about $10.00. I¡¯ve had it running my clock for about a year with no issues. It¡¯s is a linear and not a switching supply.?
![image1.jpeg]() Hope this is helpful.?
73, Alan, W3AL On Oct 1, 2018, at 12:18, Curt M. < Kc3hjp@...> wrote: I have an Ultimate 6 kit ?and Clock Kit on the way.? Can anyone recommend a decent wall wart power supply for these, preferably from Amazon.? I know wall warts aren't always the greatest so I figured maybe someone has had some success with one that they have had up and running for a while.
Curt
-- Clint. M0UAW IO83
No trees were harmed in the sending of this mail. However, a large number of electrons were greatly inconvenienced.
|
Re: GPS/U3S generated Noise
Hi Bruce
A digital signal changing at a rate of 9600 baud will generate noise. Whether or not that noise is radiated enough to be troublesome, or conducted through power supply lines or ground enough to be troublesome, depends on a lot of different factors. Shielding, grounding, location, both for the GPS and for the receiver. And how sensitive your receiver antenna system?is to local noise. So tends to be different every time.?
Two things you can try (and I have heard helped) to make it better:
1) Disconnect the yellow LED. The easiest way to try it, is to left one end of the series resistor R4.?
2) Put a 1K resistor in series with the data line between QLG1 and GPS
73 Hans G0UPL
Hi, Andy -
Thanks for the reply.? I was interested to see that you have the noise problem with one QLG1 and not with the other.? Assuming that your two GPS units are pretty much identical, I'm wondering what's different on the other end of the line.
I've opened up the VFO/SigGen and tried (1) pulling the serial data line off on the VFO end (still heard noise) so then (2) tried wrapping various leads in the VFO case through a toroid, on the assumption that the serial data line noise was being picked up in the case ... but no luck.
Since Hans has apparently not seen this behavior, and there were just a few respondents to your post (or this one), either QLG1 users have been ignoring it or there is some tweak I can do to clean it up, i.e., something on the VFO end.
Best -
Bruce K1FFX
|
Re: GPS/U3S generated Noise
Hi, Andy -
Thanks for the reply.? I was interested to see that you have the noise problem with one QLG1 and not with the other.? Assuming that your two GPS units are pretty much identical, I'm wondering what's different on the other end of the line.
I've opened up the VFO/SigGen and tried (1) pulling the serial data line off on the VFO end (still heard noise) so then (2) tried wrapping various leads in the VFO case through a toroid, on the assumption that the serial data line noise was being picked up in the case ... but no luck.
Since Hans has apparently not seen this behavior, and there were just a few respondents to your post (or this one), either QLG1 users have been ignoring it or there is some tweak I can do to clean it up, i.e., something on the VFO end.
Best -
Bruce K1FFX
|
Re: Power Supply For Ultimate 6 & Clock Kit
Curt
Another source of inexpensive 5V wall warts is the popular cell phone chargers.?
They usually have good regulation and put out 1A.? Local Dollar Stores have them
for US$1.00 plus tax.
Arv
_._
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 3:36 PM Al Sines < sasines@...> wrote: Curt,
This is a photo of the one I got from Jameco. I think it was about $10.00. I¡¯ve had it running my clock for about a year with no issues. It¡¯s is a linear and not a switching supply.?
Hope this is helpful.?
73, Alan, W3AL On Oct 1, 2018, at 12:18, Curt M. < Kc3hjp@...> wrote: I have an Ultimate 6 kit ?and Clock Kit on the way.? Can anyone recommend a decent wall wart power supply for these, preferably from Amazon.? I know wall warts aren't always the greatest so I figured maybe someone has had some success with one that they have had up and running for a while.
Curt
|
Re: Power Supply For Ultimate 6 & Clock Kit
Curt,
This is a photo of the one I got from Jameco. I think it was about $10.00. I¡¯ve had it running my clock for about a year with no issues. It¡¯s is a linear and not a switching supply.?
Hope this is helpful.?
73, Alan, W3AL
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Oct 1, 2018, at 12:18, Curt M. < Kc3hjp@...> wrote: I have an Ultimate 6 kit ?and Clock Kit on the way. ?Can anyone recommend a decent wall wart power supply for these, preferably from Amazon. ?I know wall warts aren't always the greatest so I figured maybe someone has had some success with one that they have had up and running for a while.
Curt
|
Re: ProgRock programming problem
?I think that's right Hugh, there's a blurry pic of one in a radio on my QRZ page, its the green jumper between the third and fourth pin from the end of the header not by the LE, if you didn't already do it. S
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh Duff <radeohedca@...>
To: QRPLabs < [email protected]>
Sent: Mon, Oct 1, 2018 1:56 pm
Subject: Re: [QRPLabs] ProgRock programming problem
Which 2 pins Scott ?? 1pps and Gnd? or other pins ?
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
I've always held you can expend money on anything on ebay,? what you
get is very uncertain. Allison, Agreed. But if the item is not as described Ebay will ensure you are refunded. 73 Alan G4ZFQ
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
Shirley.
Actually several vendors exist in Amazon (bit more reliable).
There is both the pro-mini 2560 (no CHA340) and the version with the CH340.
They run about $13.95.
I do have a few of the Sunfounder Mega2650 boards already but smaller is?
better.?
When prototyping size is sometimes critical and price is usually close enough.
Allison
|
Re: Need a troubleshooter
#qcx
I'm very interested, also, to know if someone is willing to help with troubleshooting, if needed...
Lloyd, K3ESE (almost) QCX 40
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
Shirley,
Only one issue.? I do not view Ebay as a vendor.? I would use them only if I
had that dollar I'm willing to ignite.? Which is not any day soon.
I've always held you can expend money on anything on ebay,? what you
get is very uncertain.
Allison
|
Re: ProgRock programming problem
Which 2 pins Scott ?? 1pps and Gnd? or other pins ?
|
Re: ProgRock programming problem
Thanks for taking the time to reply Alan.
The PIC appears to have PR1.01A firmware in it according to the label.
I do have the 1pps line grounded. I tried it again making sure the LED blinks 4 times after every entry. Still no joy.
Now the programming manual shows the DIP switches in the photos just as it is on my board, with switches 1 to 4 from left to right however the pictorials in the manual show switches 1 thru 4 from right to left. I just assumed that the one on the right is the LSB (first bit) and ignored the numbers on the DIP switch. Should I treat DIP switch 1 as DIP switch 1 instead of DIP switch 1 as the 4th bit ?
Thanks, Hugh.
|
Re: ProgRock programming problem
HI Hugh, When I first built mine I made the mistake of not jumpering 2 pins that need to be jumpered if not using it with a QCX.? Once I did that everything?programmed?great.? FWIW. 73 Scott ka9p
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh Duff <radeohedca@...>
To: QRPLabs < [email protected]>
Sent: Mon, Oct 1, 2018 12:31 pm
Subject: [QRPLabs] ProgRock programming problem
I want to use a ProgRock as an oscillator at 108.004166 MHz through a 96 multiplier to generate 10.368.4 GHz.
This is really making me feel dumb but I cannot for the life of me get my ProgRock to accept my frequency of 108.004166 MHz. I entered 04108004166F,? 04 for Bank 0 Clock 0, 108004166 for frequency, then F for Enter (button presses inbetween).?
I set the DIP switches to 0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 1000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 1111 <Button press>
I'm keeping my button presses very short. so that the LED only blinks once after the button has been pressed since I discovered that the LED was blinking multiple times if I pressed for too long.
I never see anything other than 10 MHZ coming out of the Clock 0 output port.? Do I have to strap anything? I'm assuming Bank 0 Clock 0 is the default.
What am I doing wrong ?
Thanks, Hugh VA3TO
|
Re: ProgRock programming problem
Hugh,
(Assuming you have the latest firmware.)
Perhaps take a refresher read of the manual.
The manual describes the progrock acknowledges a successful
programming action by way of 4 flashes on the LED.
If you only see one flash or are trying to beat the LED flash it
will not be accepted by the MCU.
Waiting for the LED "blinking multiple" (4) times after each step is
an indication of success !!
Also regardless if you are intending to utilising GPS discipline, it
should be removed and the PPS pin grounded while attempting to
program the device.
Alan
On 01/10/2018 18:29, Hugh Duff wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I want to use a ProgRock as an oscillator at 108.004166 MHz
through a 96 multiplier to generate 10.368.4 GHz.
This is really making me feel dumb but I cannot for the life of me
get my ProgRock to accept my frequency of 108.004166 MHz. I
entered 04108004166F,? 04 for Bank 0 Clock 0, 108004166 for
frequency, then F for Enter (button presses inbetween).?
I set the DIP switches to 0000 <Button press>, 0100
<Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0000 <Button
press>, 1000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>,
0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001
<Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 0110 <Button
press>, 1111 <Button press>
I'm keeping my button presses very short. so that the LED only
blinks once after the button has been pressed since I discovered
that the LED was blinking multiple times if I pressed for too
long.
I never see anything other than 10 MHZ coming out of the Clock 0
output port.? Do I have to strap anything? I'm assuming Bank 0
Clock 0 is the default.
What am I doing wrong ?
Thanks, Hugh VA3TO
|
ProgRock programming problem
I want to use a ProgRock as an oscillator at 108.004166 MHz through a 96 multiplier to generate 10.368.4 GHz.
This is really making me feel dumb but I cannot for the life of me get my ProgRock to accept my frequency of 108.004166 MHz. I entered 04108004166F,? 04 for Bank 0 Clock 0, 108004166 for frequency, then F for Enter (button presses inbetween).?
I set the DIP switches to 0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 1000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 1111 <Button press>
I'm keeping my button presses very short. so that the LED only blinks once after the button has been pressed since I discovered that the LED was blinking multiple times if I pressed for too long.
I never see anything other than 10 MHZ coming out of the Clock 0 output port.? Do I have to strap anything? I'm assuming Bank 0 Clock 0 is the default.
What am I doing wrong ?
Thanks, Hugh VA3TO
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
I should add that it isn't any cheaper than a full size Mega2560
clone; you can also buy those for $10 now. But it is smaller.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 12:46 PM Shirley M¨¢rquez D¨²lcey <mark@...> wrote:
There is a product that some eBay sellers offer called an 2560 Pro
Mini. It's not an official Arduino product or even an official
Sparkfun (the company that originated the Arduino Pro Mini) product.
It's not quite as minimalist as the Pro Mini 328, as it has a CH340G
USB-serial chip on board. It can be programmed with the Arduino
toolchain. It sells for about $10. Here's one listing:
That looks like it would fill the bill nicely if you want to use a
Mega 2560 but don't want to have to solder a 100TQFP.
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 12:33 PM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
First the boards like the NANo and Pro-mini are pretty much bare to start with save
you don't need to add a crystal or a basic led. None of the added item cripple
the board in any way. For exapmple I can program the NANO using a
FTDI serial cable just like a bare 328p. If you don't use the USB its effectively
not there.
Also those two use the 44pin part that offers analog A6 and A7 where
the 328P (dip) does not.
As to space the pro-mini is barely longer than the 328P and almost twice the width
has a few leds (easy to remove) and the required crystal. Not large at all.
FYI I do use 328Ps (have a tube of them with boot). They are nice when I want
to simplify the board layout. but they are maybe 25 cents cheaper than a pro-mini
and I still need the 16mhz rock (50cents in quantity). So in the end its all about
pennies and that is only important in volume.
Generally I see no problem. MY pet peve is I'd like the ATmega2560 on a small board
rather than the larger Arduino Mega2650 as I have uses that want more ram and the
8K of ram meets the need. I considered the bare chip but soldering down the
64pin QLF or the 100 pin TQFP is painful.
Allison
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
There is a product that some eBay sellers offer called an 2560 Pro
Mini. It's not an official Arduino product or even an official
Sparkfun (the company that originated the Arduino Pro Mini) product.
It's not quite as minimalist as the Pro Mini 328, as it has a CH340G
USB-serial chip on board. It can be programmed with the Arduino
toolchain. It sells for about $10. Here's one listing:
That looks like it would fill the bill nicely if you want to use a
Mega 2560 but don't want to have to solder a 100TQFP.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 12:33 PM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
First the boards like the NANo and Pro-mini are pretty much bare to start with save
you don't need to add a crystal or a basic led. None of the added item cripple
the board in any way. For exapmple I can program the NANO using a
FTDI serial cable just like a bare 328p. If you don't use the USB its effectively
not there.
Also those two use the 44pin part that offers analog A6 and A7 where
the 328P (dip) does not.
As to space the pro-mini is barely longer than the 328P and almost twice the width
has a few leds (easy to remove) and the required crystal. Not large at all.
FYI I do use 328Ps (have a tube of them with boot). They are nice when I want
to simplify the board layout. but they are maybe 25 cents cheaper than a pro-mini
and I still need the 16mhz rock (50cents in quantity). So in the end its all about
pennies and that is only important in volume.
Generally I see no problem. MY pet peve is I'd like the ATmega2560 on a small board
rather than the larger Arduino Mega2650 as I have uses that want more ram and the
8K of ram meets the need. I considered the bare chip but soldering down the
64pin QLF or the 100 pin TQFP is painful.
Allison
|
Re: Power Supply For Ultimate 6 & Clock Kit
Hi ,? Linear power supply.? 7805 regulator . 73 Bernard de on7an?
Envoy¨¦ de mon iPhone ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Le 1 oct. 2018 ¨¤ 18:18, Curt M. < Kc3hjp@...> a ¨¦crit?: I have an Ultimate 6 kit ?and Clock Kit on the way. ?Can anyone recommend a decent wall wart power supply for these, preferably from Amazon. ?I know wall warts aren't always the greatest so I figured maybe someone has had some success with one that they have had up and running for a while.
Curt
|
M0RON
Lloyd K3ESE
Alan de G1FXB
Shirley Dulcey KE1L