Re: ProgRock programming problem
Thanks for taking the time to reply Alan.
The PIC appears to have PR1.01A firmware in it according to the label.
I do have the 1pps line grounded. I tried it again making sure the LED blinks 4 times after every entry. Still no joy.
Now the programming manual shows the DIP switches in the photos just as it is on my board, with switches 1 to 4 from left to right however the pictorials in the manual show switches 1 thru 4 from right to left. I just assumed that the one on the right is the LSB (first bit) and ignored the numbers on the DIP switch. Should I treat DIP switch 1 as DIP switch 1 instead of DIP switch 1 as the 4th bit ?
Thanks, Hugh.
|
Re: ProgRock programming problem
HI Hugh, When I first built mine I made the mistake of not jumpering 2 pins that need to be jumpered if not using it with a QCX.? Once I did that everything?programmed?great.? FWIW. 73 Scott ka9p
?
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh Duff <radeohedca@...>
To: QRPLabs < [email protected]>
Sent: Mon, Oct 1, 2018 12:31 pm
Subject: [QRPLabs] ProgRock programming problem
I want to use a ProgRock as an oscillator at 108.004166 MHz through a 96 multiplier to generate 10.368.4 GHz.
This is really making me feel dumb but I cannot for the life of me get my ProgRock to accept my frequency of 108.004166 MHz. I entered 04108004166F,? 04 for Bank 0 Clock 0, 108004166 for frequency, then F for Enter (button presses inbetween).?
I set the DIP switches to 0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 1000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 1111 <Button press>
I'm keeping my button presses very short. so that the LED only blinks once after the button has been pressed since I discovered that the LED was blinking multiple times if I pressed for too long.
I never see anything other than 10 MHZ coming out of the Clock 0 output port.? Do I have to strap anything? I'm assuming Bank 0 Clock 0 is the default.
What am I doing wrong ?
Thanks, Hugh VA3TO
|
Re: ProgRock programming problem
Hugh,
(Assuming you have the latest firmware.)
Perhaps take a refresher read of the manual.
The manual describes the progrock acknowledges a successful
programming action by way of 4 flashes on the LED.
If you only see one flash or are trying to beat the LED flash it
will not be accepted by the MCU.
Waiting for the LED "blinking multiple" (4) times after each step is
an indication of success !!
Also regardless if you are intending to utilising GPS discipline, it
should be removed and the PPS pin grounded while attempting to
program the device.
Alan
On 01/10/2018 18:29, Hugh Duff wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I want to use a ProgRock as an oscillator at 108.004166 MHz
through a 96 multiplier to generate 10.368.4 GHz.
This is really making me feel dumb but I cannot for the life of me
get my ProgRock to accept my frequency of 108.004166 MHz. I
entered 04108004166F,? 04 for Bank 0 Clock 0, 108004166 for
frequency, then F for Enter (button presses inbetween).?
I set the DIP switches to 0000 <Button press>, 0100
<Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0000 <Button
press>, 1000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>,
0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001
<Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 0110 <Button
press>, 1111 <Button press>
I'm keeping my button presses very short. so that the LED only
blinks once after the button has been pressed since I discovered
that the LED was blinking multiple times if I pressed for too
long.
I never see anything other than 10 MHZ coming out of the Clock 0
output port.? Do I have to strap anything? I'm assuming Bank 0
Clock 0 is the default.
What am I doing wrong ?
Thanks, Hugh VA3TO
|
ProgRock programming problem
I want to use a ProgRock as an oscillator at 108.004166 MHz through a 96 multiplier to generate 10.368.4 GHz.
This is really making me feel dumb but I cannot for the life of me get my ProgRock to accept my frequency of 108.004166 MHz. I entered 04108004166F,? 04 for Bank 0 Clock 0, 108004166 for frequency, then F for Enter (button presses inbetween).?
I set the DIP switches to 0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 1000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 0000 <Button press>, 0100 <Button press>, 0001 <Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 0110 <Button press>, 1111 <Button press>
I'm keeping my button presses very short. so that the LED only blinks once after the button has been pressed since I discovered that the LED was blinking multiple times if I pressed for too long.
I never see anything other than 10 MHZ coming out of the Clock 0 output port.? Do I have to strap anything? I'm assuming Bank 0 Clock 0 is the default.
What am I doing wrong ?
Thanks, Hugh VA3TO
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
I should add that it isn't any cheaper than a full size Mega2560
clone; you can also buy those for $10 now. But it is smaller.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 12:46 PM Shirley M¨¢rquez D¨²lcey <mark@...> wrote:
There is a product that some eBay sellers offer called an 2560 Pro
Mini. It's not an official Arduino product or even an official
Sparkfun (the company that originated the Arduino Pro Mini) product.
It's not quite as minimalist as the Pro Mini 328, as it has a CH340G
USB-serial chip on board. It can be programmed with the Arduino
toolchain. It sells for about $10. Here's one listing:
That looks like it would fill the bill nicely if you want to use a
Mega 2560 but don't want to have to solder a 100TQFP.
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 12:33 PM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
First the boards like the NANo and Pro-mini are pretty much bare to start with save
you don't need to add a crystal or a basic led. None of the added item cripple
the board in any way. For exapmple I can program the NANO using a
FTDI serial cable just like a bare 328p. If you don't use the USB its effectively
not there.
Also those two use the 44pin part that offers analog A6 and A7 where
the 328P (dip) does not.
As to space the pro-mini is barely longer than the 328P and almost twice the width
has a few leds (easy to remove) and the required crystal. Not large at all.
FYI I do use 328Ps (have a tube of them with boot). They are nice when I want
to simplify the board layout. but they are maybe 25 cents cheaper than a pro-mini
and I still need the 16mhz rock (50cents in quantity). So in the end its all about
pennies and that is only important in volume.
Generally I see no problem. MY pet peve is I'd like the ATmega2560 on a small board
rather than the larger Arduino Mega2650 as I have uses that want more ram and the
8K of ram meets the need. I considered the bare chip but soldering down the
64pin QLF or the 100 pin TQFP is painful.
Allison
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
There is a product that some eBay sellers offer called an 2560 Pro
Mini. It's not an official Arduino product or even an official
Sparkfun (the company that originated the Arduino Pro Mini) product.
It's not quite as minimalist as the Pro Mini 328, as it has a CH340G
USB-serial chip on board. It can be programmed with the Arduino
toolchain. It sells for about $10. Here's one listing:
That looks like it would fill the bill nicely if you want to use a
Mega 2560 but don't want to have to solder a 100TQFP.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mon, Oct 1, 2018 at 12:33 PM ajparent1/KB1GMX <kb1gmx@...> wrote:
First the boards like the NANo and Pro-mini are pretty much bare to start with save
you don't need to add a crystal or a basic led. None of the added item cripple
the board in any way. For exapmple I can program the NANO using a
FTDI serial cable just like a bare 328p. If you don't use the USB its effectively
not there.
Also those two use the 44pin part that offers analog A6 and A7 where
the 328P (dip) does not.
As to space the pro-mini is barely longer than the 328P and almost twice the width
has a few leds (easy to remove) and the required crystal. Not large at all.
FYI I do use 328Ps (have a tube of them with boot). They are nice when I want
to simplify the board layout. but they are maybe 25 cents cheaper than a pro-mini
and I still need the 16mhz rock (50cents in quantity). So in the end its all about
pennies and that is only important in volume.
Generally I see no problem. MY pet peve is I'd like the ATmega2560 on a small board
rather than the larger Arduino Mega2650 as I have uses that want more ram and the
8K of ram meets the need. I considered the bare chip but soldering down the
64pin QLF or the 100 pin TQFP is painful.
Allison
|
Re: Power Supply For Ultimate 6 & Clock Kit
Hi ,? Linear power supply.? 7805 regulator . 73 Bernard de on7an?
Envoy¨¦ de mon iPhone ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Le 1 oct. 2018 ¨¤ 18:18, Curt M. < Kc3hjp@...> a ¨¦crit?: I have an Ultimate 6 kit ?and Clock Kit on the way. ?Can anyone recommend a decent wall wart power supply for these, preferably from Amazon. ?I know wall warts aren't always the greatest so I figured maybe someone has had some success with one that they have had up and running for a while.
Curt
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
First the boards like the NANo and Pro-mini are pretty much bare to start with save
you don't need to add a crystal or a basic led.? None of the added item cripple
the board in any way.? For exapmple I can program the NANO using a
FTDI serial cable just like a bare 328p.? If you don't use the USB its effectively
not there.
Also those two use the 44pin part that offers analog A6 and A7 where
the 328P (dip) does not.
As to space the pro-mini is barely longer than the 328P and almost twice the width
has a few leds (easy to remove) and the required crystal.? Not large at all.
FYI I do use 328Ps (have a tube of them with boot).? They are nice when I want
to simplify the board layout. but they are maybe 25 cents cheaper than a pro-mini
and I still need the 16mhz rock (50cents in quantity).? ?So in the end its all about
pennies and that is only important in volume.
Generally I see no problem.? MY pet peve is I'd like the ATmega2560 on a small board
rather than the larger Arduino Mega2650 as I have uses that want more ram and the?
8K of ram meets the need.? I considered the bare chip but soldering down the
64pin QLF or the 100 pin TQFP is painful.
Allison
|
Power Supply For Ultimate 6 & Clock Kit
I have an Ultimate 6 kit ?and Clock Kit on the way. ?Can anyone recommend a decent wall wart power supply for these, preferably from Amazon. ?I know wall warts aren't always the greatest so I figured maybe someone has had some success with one that they have had up and running for a while.
Curt
|
Need a troubleshooter
#qcx
I have built both a 40 and 20 m QCX and both worked, first time they were powered up.
But I have started fiddling around with them and am now in trouble. I tried to operate a beacon with the 20m version (early board) and had a runaway power problem that resulted in smoke and many burned components (finals, IC3, and Q6) as well as broken traces. I replaced the components and repaired the traces and got the rig back to transmit state, but it won't hear. I borrowed an 'scope and began to follow the troubleshooting instructions provided by Hans. Since I never used a 'scope I decided to practice tracing on the working 40m QCX. I temporarily soldered a 560ohm resistor in parallel with R43 and was able to get a hang of tracing the signal path. I removed the resistor, and powered up the 40m QCX and there was a problem. The voltage regulator was hot, all I got was a backlit screen, and the QCX was drawing .82A.?
I figured that I have a short, but I am unable to find it.
Would someone on this list be willing to take over and fix the rigs? I hate to give up, but Ive tried everything and just can't solve the problems.?
I'm far from any other hams - on an island off the Georgia coast. But we have a postoffice.
Thanks,
Phil, W3HZZ
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
One reason to use an Arduino is the weird economics of buying boards
and parts. An assembled Arduino Nano clone from China (using an
inexpensive CH340G rather than an FTDI USB-serial converter which
would cost as much as the entire board) costs less than the parts that
you would need to build it in any quantities that hams are likely to
buy. That's not even counting the cost of the circuit board or the
labor to put it together. That's why we see them designed into
projects like the BitX and the RS-HFIQ.
There is only a little baggage that comes with a Nano, and often you
want some of it. Some I/O pins are tied up with the USB-serial
interface, but if you want to connect your radio to a computer that
interface is a feature. The LEDs on the board are easy to ignore
unless absolute minimum power consumption is one of your project's
goals. The biggest overhead is the Arduino bootloader, which makes the
board easier to reprogram but uses up some of the flash memory. The
Arduino environment imposes more overhead if you use it, but you can
ignore most of it and program to the bare metal of the ATMega328P even
if you keep the bootloader.
It's true that the Nano (let alone an Uno) uses more space. If you are
designing an ultraportable radio that's a drawback. But most of the
time it's not a big deal.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sun, Sep 30, 2018 at 3:35 PM James Daldry W4JED <jim@...> wrote:
Hi, Fred
I concur. Why cripple an ATMEGA328P by dragging all that hardware crap around with it. When I want to use an SI5351 Adafruit board I do a few tweaks to the Arduino IDE, download the Adafruit libraries, and burn a bare '328. Works like a charm, takes up a 10th of the space.
Jim W4JED
On 09/30/2018 11:20 AM, Fred Piering wrote:
If you are only joking, I suggest you keep your snide comments to yourself.
There is nothing wrong with using a single chip PIC rather than a peripheral board with unneeded components, regulators, etc.
Fred
WD9HNU
On 9/30/2018 5:48 AM, db9pz@... wrote:
Oh, no!
A what ?
A PIC ?
Uhmm! This is , like here in Germany , you have to choose an Opel or a Volkswagen, to be the better one,...
Or a Mercedes Benz instead of an Audi , or a Porsche instead of a Toyata,...
Why not an 'Arduino'-type of controller? Maybe a lot of fellow HAM's will have this 6-pin 'up-load'-device from experimenting with the System Arduino-type - IC's, ... (Programmer)
No, it's only a joke!
But what I revere before, the choose of an Opel Astra instead of a Volkswagen Golf/Rabbit,... or a Comodore C64 instead a Sinclair ZX Spertrum (Timex 2000), ... or an 'YaeComWood' instead of a 'proud homebrew TRX',...
Just joking... It is Sunday! Go to your radios and 'transmit' , 'receive' and do amateur-radio.
Hope 2 meet u on the bands!
"... to the keys ..." or:
"... to the keyboards ..." or:
"... to the microphones ..."
What ever you prefere!
[instead: ... "to the stars" (ad astra) ,...]
73 es have a beautyfull sunday!
Markus ; db9pz
|
Re: Ultimate 3S SI5351error
Thanks again, Hans. Sorry for having wasted your time on that last question. It's all documented in the manual! RTFM (sigh)...
|
Re: CLOCK Kit problem - incorrect LOC calculation
#clock
#qlg
Hi Hans,
many thanks for the answer!
Yes - I have programmer here and can try to load new firmware. It's a pity that my latest order (U3s-160m) is probably on the road to me already as it was possible to add new chip into this one.
But I will try to learn something new - It is the big positive side of Your Kits! ;-)
You can use my e-mail w/o problems for .hex file.
Thanks a lot for Your care!
73!
Lexa, OK1DST
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
Hi, Fred
I concur. Why cripple an ATMEGA328P by dragging all that hardware
crap around with it. When I want to use an SI5351 Adafruit board I
do a few tweaks to the Arduino IDE, download the Adafruit
libraries, and burn a bare '328. Works like a charm, takes up a
10th of the space.
Jim W4JED
On 09/30/2018 11:20 AM, Fred Piering
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If you are only joking, I suggest you keep your snide comments to
yourself.
There is nothing wrong with using a single chip PIC rather than a
peripheral board with unneeded components, regulators, etc.
Fred
WD9HNU
Oh, no!?
A what ?
A PIC ?
Uhmm! This is?, like here in Germany , you have to choose an
Opel or a Volkswagen, to be the better one,...
Or a Mercedes Benz instead? of an Audi , or a Porsche instead of
a Toyata,...
Why not an 'Arduino'-type of controller? Maybe a lot of fellow
HAM's will have this 6-pin 'up-load'-device from experimenting
with the System Arduino-type - IC's, ... (Programmer)
No, it's only a joke!
But what I revere before, the choose of an Opel Astra instead of
a Volkswagen Golf/Rabbit,... or a Comodore C64 instead a
Sinclair ZX Spertrum (Timex 2000), ... or an 'YaeComWood'
instead of a 'proud homebrew TRX',...
Just joking... It is Sunday! Go to your radios and 'transmit' ,
'receive' and do amateur-radio.
Hope 2 meet u on the bands!
"... to the keys ..."? ?or:
"... to the keyboards ..." or:?
"... to the microphones ..."
What ever you prefere!
[instead: ... "to the stars" (ad astra) ,...]
73 es have a beautyfull sunday!
Markus ; db9pz
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
Hi Fred, Markus is not making snide comments he is making a very funny joke that I enjoyed very much, read it again and enjoy the moment.
73, Terry.
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
Whoaa there. Humorful Hams are Harmless enough. Enjoy someone else¡¯s levity, well intentioned enough. One¡¯s mood could rise and the grousing snuff.
db WB9STS
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 30, 2018, at 10:20 AM, Fred Piering < fpiering@...> wrote:
If you are only joking, I suggest you keep your snide comments to
yourself.
There is nothing wrong with using a single chip PIC rather than a
peripheral board with unneeded components, regulators, etc.
Fred
WD9HNU
Oh, no!?
A what ?
A PIC ?
Uhmm! This is?, like here in Germany , you have to choose an Opel
or a Volkswagen, to be the better one,...
Or a Mercedes Benz instead? of an Audi , or a Porsche instead of a
Toyata,...
Why not an 'Arduino'-type of controller? Maybe a lot of fellow
HAM's will have this 6-pin 'up-load'-device from experimenting
with the System Arduino-type - IC's, ... (Programmer)
No, it's only a joke!
But what I revere before, the choose of an Opel Astra instead of a
Volkswagen Golf/Rabbit,... or a Comodore C64 instead a Sinclair ZX
Spertrum (Timex 2000), ... or an 'YaeComWood' instead of a 'proud
homebrew TRX',...
Just joking... It is Sunday! Go to your radios and 'transmit' ,
'receive' and do amateur-radio.
Hope 2 meet u on the bands!
"... to the keys ..."? ?or:
"... to the keyboards ..." or:?
"... to the microphones ..."
What ever you prefere!
[instead: ... "to the stars" (ad astra) ,...]
73 es have a beautyfull sunday!
Markus ; db9pz
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
If you are only joking, I suggest you keep your snide comments to
yourself.
There is nothing wrong with using a single chip PIC rather than a
peripheral board with unneeded components, regulators, etc.
Fred
WD9HNU
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Oh, no!?
A what ?
A PIC ?
Uhmm! This is?, like here in Germany , you have to choose an Opel
or a Volkswagen, to be the better one,...
Or a Mercedes Benz instead? of an Audi , or a Porsche instead of a
Toyata,...
Why not an 'Arduino'-type of controller? Maybe a lot of fellow
HAM's will have this 6-pin 'up-load'-device from experimenting
with the System Arduino-type - IC's, ... (Programmer)
No, it's only a joke!
But what I revere before, the choose of an Opel Astra instead of a
Volkswagen Golf/Rabbit,... or a Comodore C64 instead a Sinclair ZX
Spertrum (Timex 2000), ... or an 'YaeComWood' instead of a 'proud
homebrew TRX',...
Just joking... It is Sunday! Go to your radios and 'transmit' ,
'receive' and do amateur-radio.
Hope 2 meet u on the bands!
"... to the keys ..."? ?or:
"... to the keyboards ..." or:?
"... to the microphones ..."
What ever you prefere!
[instead: ... "to the stars" (ad astra) ,...]
73 es have a beautyfull sunday!
Markus ; db9pz
|
Hi Anan,
I would be nice to post a link to the data package itself.
John
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sat, 29 Sep 2018, Alan G4ZFQ wrote:
I wonder if anyone has an idea how to implement the AGC into QCX.....Tnx for hints ! Jarda
/g/QRPLabs/message/26070?p=,,,20,0,0,0::Created,,agc,20,2,0,24613271
73 Alan G4ZFQ
|
Re: Ultimate 3S SI5351error
Hi Tom
In the latest relay kit, the position 1 relay is always in circuit therefore it needs to 1) be fitted AND 2) be the highest frequency band LPF you will install (for example, 10m if you have 80, 40, 30, 20, 15 and 10m bands).
If you want to omit LPF 1 you can do that, but then you need to fit jumper wires differently, to bypass the final LPF. It also affects some harmonic content since the final filter isnt there.
73 Hans G0UPL? ?
Got it working! It was a defective 10-way female pin header; the one into which clk2 connected. Fortunately, I had a couple extras in my junk box. Thank you, Hans!
BTW, another question: On the relay switched LPF board, does a filter have to be in position 1?? the problem is, I want to use an SMA connector (the one that fits flat on the board), but a LPF at position 1 partially covers the female SMA.
73, Tom N7JX
|
Re: QCX80..Audio very loud.
Oh, no!?
A what ?
A PIC ?
Uhmm! This is?, like here in Germany , you have to choose an Opel or a Volkswagen, to be the better one,...
Or a Mercedes Benz instead? of an Audi , or a Porsche instead of a Toyata,...
Why not an 'Arduino'-type of controller? Maybe a lot of fellow HAM's will have this 6-pin 'up-load'-device from experimenting with the System Arduino-type - IC's, ... (Programmer)
No, it's only a joke!
But what I revere before, the choose of an Opel Astra instead of a Volkswagen Golf/Rabbit,... or a Comodore C64 instead a Sinclair ZX Spertrum (Timex 2000), ... or an 'YaeComWood' instead of a 'proud homebrew TRX',...
Just joking... It is Sunday! Go to your radios and 'transmit' , 'receive' and do amateur-radio.
Hope 2 meet u on the bands!
"... to the keys ..."? ?or:
"... to the keyboards ..." or:?
"... to the microphones ..."
What ever you prefere!
[instead: ... "to the stars" (ad astra) ,...]
73 es have a beautyfull sunday!
Markus ; db9pz
|
Alan de G1FXB
Shirley Dulcey KE1L
Phil/K3UT
Lexa, OK1DST
James Daldry W4JED
Fred Piering WD9HNU
Markus