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The QMX has a protection circuit that will shut off the transmitter if the supply voltage is dangerously high, or too low. It will warn you by flashing the battery symbol on the front panel. I

My first participation with my new QMX, tnx for all QSO's and hpe cuagn 13:00 - 14:00 4 QSO'S, 2 QCX user: DK3UW,GI0BEY 19:00 -20:00 1 QSO, no QCX user 73 Tom DK3DUA

Your fault finding approach is not really going to work. You seem to be using the scope for supposedly precise DC readings and not providing the correct power supplies to get meaningful results

It was clearly working when it was dispatched ?- so we will shortly know. ?(Unless you transmitted I’d be surprised but … ) I would suggest getting set up for a logical test process, Dummy

Thank you so much Stan. This did solve the problem to a certain extent. That is, once I change the mode to digi using Putty as per your instructions I can control the rig via WSJTX without any

Interesting. ? I built mine with built in GPS as a ‘self contained Ham Block’ It has no external switches at all. ?Give it power and it runs. ?Vice versa ? The programming switches are

I am, in all likelihood, one of those hit by the? PCM1804 problem.? I have read threads about replacing it and bought replacement chips and the necessary tools, but I doubt my eyesight and?

Hi Larry Cuurrently the only way is to reconfigure your band configuration screen to delete the bands you don't want. In future I will add a toggle so that a band can still be in band configuration

My QMX-Plus has steeper selectivity skirts (programmable) than my FT-891.? With both set to a 50 hz bandwidth setting listening to CW at the lower ends of 20 and 40 meters, my QMX+ seems "quieter"

The ATU talk makes me cringe as well, but because it can do the opposite of protecting your radio.? When it's looking for the lowest possible match, it will explore some regions of potentially high

Hello all. I bought a built QMX, being in my early 80s and not quite up to building a complex QRP Labs kit. When it arrived, I unpacked it and plugged in the PS IO use for the K3. Looking at the

Some really interesting perspectives here. I grew up in ham radio during high school and mandatory code--I consider myself lucky. 80 percent of my qso's are cw. licensed since 82...none of that

Thank you for your response. You suggested something like a "tune" mode that reduces power to 25 percent. Can the radio be operated in that mode? Is the power reduction continuously variable? I will

I did put black momentary button switches just under the pipe below the display. They look good as is, but I may try to retro design them somehow. -- 73, Dan - W2DLC

The little arrow pointer thing on the left side is a lever that's connected to a switching potentiometer. It turns the clock on and off and dims the LCD backlight. -- 73, Dan - W2DLC

Good information Steve. I will definitely make a note of this. I have to say I already swapped out C21 and C22 for 1 uf caps and the key clicks are 100% gone. If I go full QSK and still have issues I

Hello Ron: Good news… I swapped out C21 and C22. Fer ?1?F caps. Key clicks on the side-tone are now nonexistent! Now my only dilemma is it’s nearly too good to sell! thank you again… 73

none that I'm aware of

I have an FT991/A and an Elecraft K3s -- and my QMXs, QMX+. The receive on the QMX is clean and clear, with more-than-adequate sensitivity (at least in my signal environment).? So it in some ways

I found the value of C24 to be the most important factor in eliminating clicks/thumps in full QSK. The original value of this cap in the QCX classic was 10uf, this was later changed to 470uf...though