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Cal, I just did some measurements on my QMX+, V and I measured right at the input power connector to remove cable losses, and with a QRP-labs 20W dummy load attached.? All measurements were done

Ron, without dismantle the enclosure you get some information by checking the supply current. When in bootloader mode the current is around 200 mA. When firmware is running the current is around 200

Well so much for the simple stuff. :) I had a hunch you were doing things correctly. If it were me, I'd take the radio out of the enclosure and CAREFULLY start checking voltages. First thing would be

Mark, The WSJT-X group[ seems to indicate a Hamlib problem. Look there, I think there is an answer. (No point in running rc versions unless you are prepared for bugs or there is something new you MUST

thanks Greg. yes, I am pressing the left knob and holding for a couple of seconds. I have tried longer and shorter presses just in case. The USB c cable and USB A to C adapter are the ones that I use

May not apply in you case ....? But .... Are you pressing the encoder knob to turn on the QMX? And for the PC to recognize the Q ... It's important that the QMX is powered off. Then plug in your USB

I have been using wsjt-x 2.7.0 rc6 for a while because of the improvements around superfox mode. A couple of days ago I decided to move to the new pre-release version, rc7.? I have been having

Mine arrived this past summer and was just fine. Still trying to find time to use it and learn more about it. Rich. KD2UBJ

I does look like very nice stuff, Donald. I think I will order some of it. I might have a problem that I've only noticed after my repair, due the the limits I've set on my Drok regulator. On 12m, when

OK... I did some more troubleshooting. I tried two different battery packs (both Talentcell 12V), two different power cables and verified that the battery packs work with my QCX Mini and FX-4CR. I

I understand! I ordered in early August and waiting for it to ship only to have it arrive dead is disappointing. I have a QCX Mini that I bought used and it is great, so I have high hopes for the QMX.

Scary when I often see these failures happening.? I find myself hoping my QMX+ Order ID 91594 - Serial 6457 - Ordered 9-17-24 works as it is now #84 on the list. I know is a kit and made by humans

You can decrease the output of either a 9V or 12V QMX by decreasing the input voltage. For any given input, a 9V build will produce more output power than a 12V build. I have neither tested it nor

The QMX/QMX+ work fine down to a supply voltage of about 7.5V.? Somewhere around 7V it will cease to function.

I am about to order a QMX+ which I plan to use with my HardRock 50+ amplifier/ATU.? The HR-50+ will operate in "QRP mode", in which the ampifier is switched off and the ATU is still operating; this

I use a Emtec ZM-2 Z match tuner for my QRP rigs.? It has a Tune mode that puts a resistor bridge between the radio and the Z match, it also has a tune LED that will go out when you have a 1:1

Sardar, Dirk, I'm planning to order 5 rev. 1.3 Companion boards today so Stan and I can evaluate them. We think it's worthwhile to delay the big group buy so builders will not need to add large wires

Neat looking kits! Too bad transport from UK to US so 'spensive! Boo, hoo...! -- 73 Karl KI4ZUQ

I use an LDG RT-100 with my QMX's in QMX Test mode at home QTH and have for 9 months now. The RT-100 does a lot of hunting before settling in. So far so good. If I forget TEST mode, I get a SWR

I've built and use Kanga Pocket Transmatch with my QMX's. Half the size. I noticed that match on transmatch is different from match on rig. Read somewhere to match the rig. Makes sense.