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Thank you very much, George.? I hope you enjoy the photo art. - Bill

BTW, your Art Sit e is wonderful. I gotta look again and shop!

? Karl-Heinz To use Hans’ own words: Twisted improved efficiency, removed the resonance, improved power output, and reduced even harmonics

Thank you again Ronald. It probably would not be a bad idea if Hans would update the manual to show a higher quality image of the one I drew so that people like me that are a little challenged with

Well we are in the same page! Wait for Hans... The chances of a bad component are slim but I deter to your investigate skills, sir. Hans is really good with ' shit happrns'

George, here is the converter that I use. - Bill

I don't see anything in the pix, but there are plenty of reports of flaky SMD solder joints. Hans will sort this out, he always does.

Hi Bill, I use a DROK, in fact 15 of them, and we are on the same page. I use them with 20 volt batteries. I did make a switch with QMX+ to a DROK 12 v. regulator because the DROK buck converters,

George, here's the board in the vicinity of the 1804.

Hi George. It's built for 12V? The power supply is a Bioenno 12V 12AH down-regulated with a DROC to a measured 12V. - Bill

Hi Bill, Please describe the voltage of your QMX+, the type power supply, etc. Also a pix of the board in the area of PCM 1804 if you would. Sorry you are having the difficulty. 73, George

I have noticed that on my QCX that if it is in full sunlight that the case will get hot even without TX. I have been thinking of using something for a heat sink but just working in the shade seems to

My QMX + kit was working well for some weeks -- until two days ago, when a power-on yielded mute audio. Several on and off cycles seemed to fix it, and I blissfully (and foolishly)? presumed it was

Hi Peter, I noticed the same thing.? I did a POTA activation this weekend and was quite surprised how hot the QMX case became.? So hot, that I switched over to a different rig worried about damage

That’s it Howard. 73…Ron [email protected]> wrote:

I assume you mean IC removal… I have tried a bunch of different ways. ?But I’ve settled on the method that uses low temp melt point solder. ?I use the stuff that melts at 80C. ?This is the bar

@N1TR no, I don’t recall a high SWR trip before the “wacky” reading. This .26 firmware hasn’t been great for me. Had the audio freak out on me again today while in the field. Had to pull the

I’m including two illustrations. One to make sure that I fully understood what you wrote and the other one to show the other microphone element that I have.

If you're going to put in an autotuner, something based on the ATU-100 by N7DDC (or its lower power cousin, the ATU-10, with latching relays) would be a reasonable choice if you want something right

You can download the manual from the QRP Labs website.