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This does sound easy enough - to make the attenuator attenuate more, although it looks to me that there's a very happy frequency that this amp wants to operate, which implies that somewhere, this

I found this little book of use: McClanaham, J. Oscilloscope Applications for the QRP Enthusiast Not really on-line, but quite cheap, even more so for the Kindle version.? Available at Amazon and

Troubleshooting update. Observing that 3.3V linear supply was not enabled, and that the linear supply needs to come on before anything else happens, I tested the supply board alone by connecting the

Strangely, after swapping back and forth between Firmware 12 & 16 a few times while testing - this problem has disappeared. Still interested if anyone can think of a cause - was using a Dummy

Or one could use the right tool for the job, a contact burnisher: https://www.amazon.com/Jonard-OB-1-Burnisher-Insulated-Thickness/dp/B006C47JOI I wonder whether the issue will return after

Firstly - Thanks Hans for all the work you put in. Since changing to firmware_1_00_016, I have no PTT & Audio error messages when trying to run JS8 WSJT-X runs fine. (Yes I have checked for the

Thanks for help with this Ron. I'll send the radio tomorrow.

I will just say that Hot air is fantastic *once you have the hang of it.* Brain surgery on your latest radio is probably *not* the right way to gain initial experience I used a new heat gun (a

Ill check it out Andy. Don, good to know about 1x and freq resp. I was aware of the probe cal and all that was covered in the manual for the scope. I read somewhere today that the ones with 2

Kind of hard to diagnose remotely Pat. Feel free to go ahead and send it. 73….Ron

Rater that sandpaper which can remove contact plating, I use a strip of paper soaked in DeOxIt. Works every time. Gary W9TD

Hi Ron, In soldered the jumper to the left side of R40 and to the 12v location you showed in image. There is now 12.5 volts at R40, and 6.5 volts coming out of R40 and into R39. But still can't

A product such as Chip-Quik https://www.chipquik.com/store/index.php?cPath=2200 or Fast Chip https://www.sra-solder.com/fast-chip-kit-for-quik-smd-removal will drastically lower the melting point of

Just ran into an interesting problem. Not sure what if it's related to f/w or h/w. Battery to QMX (12V build) reading 12.0 V- verified with DVM. Current draw 93 mA. QMX reads 10.3 V on screen, as does

Another vote for ChipQuick solder. It stays molten for a long time. allowing you to lift the device off easily with no damage to pads. -- Mike G8GYW

Yes it is very fine one! Sure! Thanks! Joan

When I remove these, I cut a square out of Kapton tape and use it as the heat shield. It’s not really needed but it makes me feel better. I don’t pull until the air can make the chip swim. Then I

Low temperature solder like ChipQuick works well too. -- 73, Dan? NM3A

Joan, Hope you don't use regular sandpaper, you will ruin the plating from the contacts! In my previous post, I've mentioned very fine grained (800 grit) sandpaper used for shining guitar frets,

I am testing a QDX-M for the 10m Band. I would like to find out if there is any difference in power output at this frequency using the supplied BN43-202 core for the T1 transformer by comparing it