Re: Cannot change the mode on QMX+
Thank you so much Stan. This did solve the problem to a certain extent. That is, once I change the mode to digi using Putty as per your instructions I can control the rig via WSJTX without any problem, changing band, etc. and yes, the dot appears under A, too.
Furthermore when I click the encoder knob the rig goes into CW mode too. However it then gets stuck in that mode and I can change neither the band nor the mode, unless I go back to Putty. Interesting in deed!
73!? de Bekir TA2RX
On Mon, Jan 13, 2025 at 02:30 PM, ta2rx bekir wrote:
Test PTT is RED
Test PTT turns RED when you activate it to remind you that TX is on.? That is normal.
You need to check if it is working by looking at the QMX+ display and seeing if the PTT 'dot' shows up under the A (or B) VFO indicator.? And yes, this only happens in QMX+ is in digi mode.
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Make sure in the WSJTx radio control panel that 'mode' is set to 'none' (that isn't your mode problem, but can cause other probs if set incorrectly).
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As a possible work-around, until you figure out the left encoder button issue, try sending the mode command via CAT as follows:
- close wsjt-x
- open putty and go into the QMX+ menu
- choose "PC and CAT" then "CAT command test"
- at the bottom of the screen on the "Command:" line type MD6 and hit enter.
That should switch you to Digi mode.?? MD3 to go back to CW, MD6 for Digi.
Then go back to WSJTx and have fun.? It should be able to change bands for you.
?
Stan KC7XE.
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Interesting. ? I built mine with built in GPS as a ‘self contained Ham Block’ ?
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It has no external switches at all. ?Give it power and it runs. ?Vice versa ?
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The programming switches are only accessible by removing the lid. ?
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Re: QMX(+) Build experience, Poor Audio Filter Sweep/RF Filter Sweep/Image Sweep/ADC IQ test and resolution with new PCM1804
I am, in all likelihood, one of those hit by the? PCM1804 problem.? I have read threads about replacing it
and bought replacement chips and the necessary tools, but I doubt my eyesight and? dexterity are equal to the task.
Wrecking my QMX is the most likely outcome.
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I would rather restart the build with a PCB known to contain a good PCM1804. Buying a new QMX (which would be my third,
since my first was accidentally destroyed) is expensive. If replacement PCBs (just the part containing the PCM1804) were
available, I would buy one, reusing the SMPS, front panel, and all salvageable components.
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I think Hans could consider making such replacement PCBs available at or near cost to previous buyers of a QMX,
on a one-for-one basis. I also? feel warning should be given to prospective builders that there is (aparently) a 15%
chance of having to replace a SMD component, something which is at the boundary or beyond of what many of us
can tackle.
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Re: Blocking a band on QMX/QMX+
Hi Larry
Cuurrently the only way is to reconfigure your band configuration screen to delete the bands you don't want.?
In future I will add a toggle so that a band can still be in band configuration but can be disabled so that double clicking band change skips over it. It's already on my list.?
73 Hans G0UPL
On Tue, Jan 14, 2025, 00:13 Larry Christensen via <larryna0f= [email protected]> wrote: I would like to block out the bands I don’t use.?
I asked this once before but never got an answer on how to do it if it is possible.?
That would make moving though the bands I do use much easier and faster.?
TIA
Larry NA0F
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Re: Your QMX output experiences @12volts...?..and by the way, what an amazing radio.
My QMX-Plus has steeper selectivity skirts (programmable) than my FT-891.? With both set to a 50 hz bandwidth setting listening to CW at the lower ends of 20 and 40 meters, my QMX+ seems "quieter" when referencing the no-signal background noise level.? Somewhat relative of a comparison, I can copy the weak signal on either rig.
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Mark K9TR
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Re: Your QMX output experiences @12volts...?..and by the way, what an amazing radio.
The ATU talk makes me cringe as well, but because it can do the opposite of protecting your radio.? When it's looking for the lowest possible match, it will explore some regions of potentially high SWR.? That can blow your finals unless you somehow reduce power.? And I rather like twiddling knobs, guess it makes me feel like I'm in control and gives me an opportunity to learn about my antenna.? When I want convenience I reach for a cellphone.
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I'd argue that an end fed half wave is ideal for portable use.? Radiates as good as a dipole but resonant on twice as many frequencies, gets fed from one end which might be conveniently near your tent or picnic table.? No fancy tuner needed just a suitable matchbox, some EFHW designs can hit? 80, 40, 20, and 10m without adjusting anything.? That said, experimenting with better antennas is to be encouraged.? The radiation pattern from an EFHW is pretty much pot luck on all but the fundamental.
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Jerry, KE7ER
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On Mon, Jan 13, 2025 at 06:02 PM, Scott VY1CO wrote:
All of this talk now about cramming an antenna tuner into a qrp rig makes me cringe...it does nothing for you but protect your radio unless you step out of the box and begin to understand how running non-resonant antennas--be they loops or, ideal for QRP, balanced line? fed doublets. I fear we have started to raise a generation of end fed antenna users, but I will save that for another diatribe.
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Hello all.
I bought a built QMX, being in my early 80s and not quite up to building a complex QRP Labs kit. When it arrived, I unpacked it and plugged in the PS IO use for the K3. Looking at the panel, I saw the blinking battery symbol and after some rtfming, plugged in a 12 VDC PS. However, the QMX+ has major problems, some as quirky as a sidetone which is sometimes there, sometimes not, and major problems such as it does not receive or transmit any RF energy (and it’s not in practice mode). Would ten seconds of 13.8 volts cause this amount of disfunction?
Thanks,
Dave K9SW
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Re: Your QMX output experiences @12volts...?..and by the way, what an amazing radio.
Some really interesting perspectives here.?
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I grew up in ham radio during high school and mandatory code--I consider myself lucky. 80 percent of my qso's are cw. licensed since 82...none of that matters, but it brings perspective.?
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The 'problem' with qrp is that many carry over the minimalist approach to every aspect of the hobby--especially antennas. Yes, there was a guy who once worked a ZS6 station using no more than1 watt and? a G5RV positioned 5 feet off the ground, but it only happened once. Propagation is the greatest determinant to our success, and often it works against us and our schedules.? 4 or 5 watts cw is actually a lot of power when properly transferred to antenna...but you need a decent antenna. If you want to work anything worthwhile on QRP, you need a good antenna. Its worth repeating.? Period.? All of this talk now about cramming an antenna tuner into a qrp rig makes me cringe...it does nothing for you but protect your radio unless you step out of the box and begin to understand how running non-resonant antennas--be they loops or, ideal for QRP, balanced line? fed doublets. I fear we have started to raise a generation of end fed antenna users, but I will save that for another diatribe.
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As for the power discussion, which seems timely given my recent dealings with the 50 w Amp, it makes a big difference...frankly, 25 watts CW with a good antenna is optimum. Again, only if you are able to transfer the power out. The QMX is a brilliant little radio, as is the QCX...I have them all and I can tell you that I get as much or more enjoyment from making a contact on those as I do running the Orion 2 or the Elecraft...likely more, to be honest.
But that is comparing Apples and rocks...I don't play with the amazing QRP Labs gear because its the best/easiest? way to make an actual contact, I do it because I learn a lot from the experience. I learn a lot from this group and the help I get on the mistakes I make, and seeing how others overcome theirs. That is the essence of Amateur radio. Without that, we are little more than appliance operators.?
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I often try to explain to people that QRP is very much like fishing--fly fishing. You know, how gentlemen angle for fish. We could use a net or, worse, a hook and a worm, but for those of us who appreciate the art, we tie our own fly's, we plan and stalk our prey,? and do so in the least disruptive manner.?
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So to bring this back to where it began--somewhat--I do just fine with 2.5 watts and a yagi at 72 feet...but if I am out on the trail with just my doublet and some 450 ohm ladder line, I want to get every damn watt I can out of that rig. Nothing worse than being half an S unit under the station you want to work.
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Now back to this pesky 50w amp that sonly giving me 10 watts out @13v with 4w input :)?
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73
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Scott
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Re: Your QMX output experiences @12volts...?..and by the way, what an amazing radio.
Thank you for your response. You suggested something like a "tune" mode that reduces power to 25 percent. Can the radio be operated in that mode? Is the power reduction continuously variable? I will take time to study the manuals somewhat to see how that looks in operation. It would be ideal if I could that.
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About fiddling with the supply voltages..I really want to avoid that. I have poor luck and lots of effort to get some digital gear that I can use with my radios that does not scream in the radio's ears. All of it runs on 5 volts or my "12 volt" (12 to almost 14 volts). That includes a Raspberry Pi and a couple of accessories on 5 volts and a small screen about the size of my iPad on the same 12volt batteries the radios use.
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I won't re-use the Anderson Power Poles for any other battery system to avoid the inevitable mixup. But I could use something like polarized plugs sold for automotive use on lithium battery packs with 3 series cells for something around 10 to 11 volts. No digital hash and no power wasted in a dropping resistor or diodes. Just more stuff to drag around on portable ops.
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This with other replies has me reconsidering a QMX+. I will look through the manual as before I ask any more questions about it.
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73,
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Bill ?KU8H
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I did put black momentary button switches just under the pipe below the display. They look good as is, but I may try to retro design them somehow.
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73, Dan - W2DLC
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The little arrow pointer thing on the left side is a lever that's connected to a switching potentiometer. It turns the clock on and off and dims the LCD backlight.
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73, Dan - W2DLC
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Re: QCX classic 40METER key click
Good information Steve.
I will definitely make a note of this.
I have to say I already swapped out C21 and C22 for 1 uf caps and the key clicks are 100% gone.
If I go full QSK and still have issues I will know what to do now.
thank you very kindly for your input.
N2HHH?
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Re: QCX classic 40METER key click
Hello Ron:
Good news… I swapped out C21 and C22. Fer ?1?F caps.
Key clicks on the side-tone are now nonexistent!
Now my only dilemma is it’s nearly too good to sell!
thank you again… 73 N2HHH
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Re: Your QMX output experiences @12volts...?..and by the way, what an amazing radio.
I have an FT991/A and an Elecraft K3s -- and my QMXs, QMX+.
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The receive on the QMX is clean and clear, with more-than-adequate sensitivity (at least in my signal environment).? So it in some ways competitive with both of the commercial rigs.
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But the receiver on both of the commercial rigs is also much better by some measures: noise blankers, IF shift, built-in attenuator and pre-amp, automatic/manual notch filter, adjustable digital noise reduction, etc.? And the K3 has a fully independent sub-receiver for split operation or synchronous diversity receive from two antennas.
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And as good and clear as the QMX audio is, the K3 has a better audio amplifier with several adjustable features including multiband equalizer and digital audio effects.
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And they have a built-in 100W multiband linear amp, so I don't need to try and cobble together something with switchable lowpass filters.
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So as others have said, they are really not in the same class, and can only be compared on a very small subset of features.
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But if the 'fancy' features are not important to you, the QMX is way more than adequate, it is excellent.? And I love mine, not only for portable operation, but because it is fun to operate something SO TINY that is such an amazing multiband, multimode radio.
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Stan KC7XE
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Re: QCX classic 40METER key click
I found the value of C24 to be the most important factor in eliminating clicks/thumps in full QSK. The original value of this cap in the QCX classic was 10uf, this was later changed to 470uf...though I found 100uf to be sufficient....try it, and then you won't want to sell it!
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73 Steve G4EDG?
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Re: Solved! Beacon/WSPR - problem inserting call sign
I found?that you insert the blank character differently depending on whether your five letter call is 1x3 or 2x2. If the former, you insert the blank character at the beginning and if the latter you insert the blank at the end. The point is that the third character in the menu?can only be a numeral. When I read the manual carefully?this point is mentioned there?but it is not clearly stated (at least to my mind).?
I am a happy camper now and my WSPR beacon is operating nicely?as I write.
Hiroki AH6CY
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Re: Cannot change the mode on QMX+
On Mon, Jan 13, 2025 at 02:30 PM, ta2rx bekir wrote:
Test PTT is RED
Test PTT turns RED when you activate it to remind you that TX is on.? That is normal.
You need to check if it is working by looking at the QMX+ display and seeing if the PTT 'dot' shows up under the A (or B) VFO indicator.? And yes, this only happens in QMX+ is in digi mode.
?
Make sure in the WSJTx radio control panel that 'mode' is set to 'none' (that isn't your mode problem, but can cause other probs if set incorrectly).
?
As a possible work-around, until you figure out the left encoder button issue, try sending the mode command via CAT as follows:
- close wsjt-x
- open putty and go into the QMX+ menu
- choose "PC and CAT" then "CAT command test"
- at the bottom of the screen on the "Command:" line type MD6 and hit enter.
That should switch you to Digi mode.?? MD3 to go back to CW, MD6 for Digi.
Then go back to WSJTx and have fun.? It should be able to change bands for you.
?
Stan KC7XE.
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Re: Cannot change the mode on QMX+
On Mon, Jan 13, 2025 at 05:49 AM, ta2rx bekir wrote:
cannot change the mode to Digi now using the mode knob. It is stuck at CW. Band change does not work either but I can switch the rig on and off without any problem
This is strange and seems contradictory.?
The button on the left encoder connects to the QMX+ main board to directly switch the power on (but not off), and also to the processor so the firmware can monitor the switch (via Q202 and R206, R209).?
If the processor can see the switch state to turn the power off, it should also be able to see the switch presses to change modes and bands.? That is what seems contradictory.
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Perhaps the shorter clicks would not be seen if something was wrong (poor solder, etc) with Q202/R206/R209, or if something else is dragging on this signal line.? I would check that part of the circuit card carefully under high magnification.? And measure the voltage on the drain of Q202 when switch is pressed and not (should be about 0V until switch pressed, then go up to almost 5V).
Or perhaps there is a fault in the encoder itself, such that it requires a longer button press to make proper contact.? Maybe try making your 'short presses' a bit longer and see if you get any response?
Stan KC7XE
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Re: USBC connector not installed correctly on QMX+
I concur, I have built 6 QMXs so far and none of them have ever had an issue with the USB-C connector.?
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73, Dan? NM3A
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Bruce Akhurst
Mark K9TR
Daniel Conklin
Howard Lamhut
Steve G4EDG