Re: USB Device not recognized .... another one
#qmx
25 mA is not enough. Hans suggests 250 mA and 7 volts
somewhere... I set my current to about 180 mA and it came up.
73, Paul -- AI7JR
On 8/23/23 21:18, Rick Williams - VE7TK
via groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
Well I have completed my 12VDC QMX. I have it connected to a
current limited power supply set at about 25 mA at 9VDC (yes I'm
paranoid). I have a power meter and dummy load on the BNC output.
The LED backlight pot is at about 50%
I plugged in the USB cable BEFORE switching on the power supply
and immediately Win10 gave my the dreaded USB Device not
Recognized. When I switch on the Power supply no
current is drawn and there is 9 VDC on the power connector on the
PC board. Similarly a long push of the left encoder yields no
current drawn. (This is a good thing -- hi!)
I have tried 3 USB cables. Two get no reaction from my PC and one
gets the USB error message. None of the cables yield ANY reaction
on a Linux PC?
I'm not sure what's happening? I assume that applying power to the
QMX should cause it to enter and or display Update
firmware. Is a long press of the left encoder
required for that to be displayed? Is is displayed on the LED
display or on the computer?
The "flaky-ness" of the USB cables has me leaning toward a USB
cable problem some have encountered. I have successfully updated
the firmware on my QLG2 but it uses a different USB cable. So, am
I correct in assuming that -
- IF I have a faulty USB cable,
- the USB device will not be found,
- no bootloader will be installed,
- the backlight will stay off, and
- without firmware the QMX will draw no current?
Have I misinterpreted something. Some comments on this site
suggest that the QMX will turn on (no LED display) and draw
current (~150 mA) without a USB cable attached when the left
encoder is given a long push??
Finally, the USB-C connector on the main PCB looks a little dicey!
(Photo attached)
Thoughts appreciated. Thanks!
--
73, Rick
VE7TK
Website:
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#QMX Are these Issues?
#qmx
Is there some kind of log for QMX issues? Don't want to bore anybody by reporting what's known, or my build defect! Here's what I'm seeing (I've got Firmware version 9 loaded, 7volts, 250ma current limit):
- On application of power, initial current is 0, but goes to around 10ma after 10-15 seconds. Stays steady after it comes up.
- On initial power application, power on click is ignored, until the above 10ma step in current.
- At that point, power on click "delays" for ~10sec, then display comes on and 150ma current draw.
- Tune knob frequency only goes up?
- Long press power click displays Shutdown, but LCD never goes off, current (150ma) never drops.
- While "Shutdown" is displayed, band and mode can be changed!
- Going back to 3, if the power is interrupted briefly (maybe 200mS), device turns off. Pressing power-on click activates immediately!
I what I'm seeing "normal" at the moment? :-) Haven't gotten so far as to transmit or receive, either one. (Need to read that operations manual!) Please forgive if this is the wrong place to put this! 73, Paul -- AI7JR
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Re: QMX - smoke - another C107/Q108 failure
Hello Razvan
The SMPS boards are not a risky proposition, my friend. There is a known issue with a proportion of the current batch, having the Q103/Q104 drain short, regrettably. However other than this, there are no known issues with the SMPS boards or the whole concept.?
There are certain short-circuits, via solder bridges, carelessly placed probes, wire clippings and so on, which the QMX will not tolerate or forgive. However this is always the case in?any radio with multiple power rails. Well in fact in almost any circuit! You never have the right to short any arbitrary parts of the schematic together and expect the rig to not get damaged.?
On Thu, Aug 24, 2023 at 12:45?AM DL2ARL < dl2arl@...> wrote: Rick wrote above:
"I think the best approach here will be to rig up linear 3.3/5V supplies "
Hello Rick and group,
I have a similar tought on another thread in this group. Check for the message:
There already is a 3,3V linear regulator in the rig. One should only disable the "handover" from the linear regulator to the buck converter. I seriously intend to do so, at least until I understand what's up with all this happening that makes me feel rather unsure when handling the rig in so many experimental ways.
The rig is small and frail; my hands are big and clumsy... ;-)
For a 5V rail there is no such linear regulator in the rig, so one might add it somewhere where there is enough groundplane on the PCB to solder it to. I would refrain from using one of those scarry xx1117 5V LDO's needlessly having the output electrode on PIN 2 (middle pin) and the cooling tab. In case of a thermic failure, the input gets toasted directly to the output. Whoever designed this chip... (censored)
More civil linear regulators have the cooling tab connected to the ground electrode and if "melt-down" happens, the input gets connected to the ground and there might be hope that a fuse somewhere gets blown before the trace on the PCB burns out. But in most cases, the output stays safely isolated from the ugly happening.
And do not forget to connect the 3,3V regulator to the 5V rail, to avoid unnecessary loss. By doing so, there might be problems with the wake-up timing of the whole combo. As designed, the 3,3V rail feeding the main professor is alive and kicking long before the 5V rail is up. Reversing the order of wake-ups, some latch-up might occur that was not foreseen in the initial sequence. A big electrolitic cap here and there or even some sort of wise watch-dog reset-policy might be needed if wake-up gets bitchy.?
Let's try and please keep us informed of your progress. The more I think, the better I find the idea of replacing the buck converters with linear regulators, if not for good, at least for the testing period, until things settle down. But the more I think, the more I believe that, if I would succeed in replacing the buck converters with LDOs... I would just leave it stay put this way.?
It is also very refreshing to know that the buck converter boards can be tested without endangering the main professor, the one and only, the unreplaceable.
Yours friendly, Razvan dl2arl
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Re: Argh QMX Q103/Q104 short
On 23 Aug 2023 at 22:12, KK4ITX John via groups.io wrote: Put the parts on and take them off to your
hearts content?. you will get the feel of the process. If anyone wants old populated boards to practice with, let me know ... only ask postage for them. Jim W2JC (nj)
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USB Device not recognized .... another one
#qmx
Well I have completed my 12VDC QMX. I have it connected to a current limited power supply set at about 25 mA at 9VDC (yes I'm paranoid). I have a power meter and dummy load on the BNC output. The LED backlight pot is at about 50% I plugged in the USB cable BEFORE switching on the power supply and immediately Win10 gave my the dreaded USB Device not Recognized. When I switch on the Power supply no current is drawn and there is 9 VDC on the power connector on the PC board. Similarly a long push of the left encoder yields no current drawn. (This is a good thing -- hi!) I have tried 3 USB cables. Two get no reaction from my PC and one gets the USB error message. None of the cables yield ANY reaction on a Linux PC? I'm not sure what's happening? I assume that applying power to the QMX should cause it to enter and or display Update firmware. Is a long press of the left encoder required for that to be displayed? Is is displayed on the LED display or on the computer? The "flaky-ness" of the USB cables has me leaning toward a USB cable problem some have encountered. I have successfully updated the firmware on my QLG2 but it uses a different USB cable. So, am I correct in assuming that -
- IF I have a faulty USB cable,
- the USB device will not be found,
- no bootloader will be installed,
- the backlight will stay off, and
- without firmware the QMX will draw no current?
Have I misinterpreted something. Some comments on this site suggest that the QMX will turn on (no LED display) and draw current (~150 mA) without a USB cable attached when the left encoder is given a long push?? Finally, the USB-C connector on the main PCB looks a little dicey! (Photo attached) Thoughts appreciated. Thanks! -- 73, Rick VE7TK Website:
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Re: #qmx Bringing up QMX, Nothing in display but terminal works, shutdown press does not
#qmx
In my case, it turned out to be that I'd damaged the trace from
pin 14 on the LCD to pin 8 of JP304.
Fixed it and the display came on. :-)
There are still long delays from when I apply power to the QMX,
to when it's ready to accept pressing the volume button. Then,
once I press that, there's a long delay before the LCD lights up.
Is that normal?
If I break power, momentarily, it turns off. But when I power on,
it responds right away.
Is that normal behavior?
Also, if I long press for power off, that shows in the display,
but the LCD never turns off and the current doesn't go down. With
the Shutdown Message showing, I can change modes and band. Looks
like it's not really turning off.
Is that currently normal behavior?
Inquiring minds want to know! (Version 9 firmware)
(Not complaining, just want to make sure I've got nothing left to
troubleshoot!)
73, Paul -- AI7JR
On 8/23/23 00:06, Rick NF6G wrote:
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Show quoted text
Paul, I had a similar issue, which turned out to be pin 3 of the
display board making contact with the inductor on the power supply
board above it. /g/QRPLabs/message/107812
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Simple mistake: The micro usb connector was not soldered with all pins. (Units were supplied in June 2023).
I have soldered an external micro usb with some short stranded wires to the board, now it works!
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Re: QMX AGC... any progress?
I'm primarily a sound engineer by trade and have some algorithms/code from some audio dsp I've written which I'm willing to share if desired
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Re: Relationship of VDD and VCC
Hi Kees
The 1N4148 diode in the 3.3V power supply is to isolate the 78M33 when the SMPS is being used and the 78M33 is off.?
Vdd and Vcc rails are NOT connected anywhere. The "Vdd" on the IC402P/IC403P names is just a remnant of the library component! I will change it in future to avoid confusion.??
Hans,?
Yes, VDD vs VCC can get a little messy especially since the two appear to be connected together on the little IC402P/IC403P power pin schematic. My point was why is there not a 1N4148 blocking diode (or is that just a fixed voltage drop for the LDO) on both VDD power sources (the 3.3V LDO output D103 and the 3.3V output from the switcher Q111).?
Maybe I misread the schematic and VCC is not connected to VDD anywhere.
73 Kees K5BCQ
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Re: Argh QMX Q103/Q104 short
I was unsure of my ability to deal with SMD/SMT but got over it by getting a practice kit. ?It doesn¡¯t do anything when you are done so you can¡¯t destroy it. ?Put the parts on and take them off to your hearts content¡. you will get the feel of the process.
For under $10 you¡¯ll gain great confidence in your ability¡.. check your favorite source.
John KK4ITX? ?Each mistake is a learning opportunity.?
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On Aug 23, 2023, at 6:41 PM, Rich Brandt, AE8AA <richbrandt@...> wrote:
?Again, watch a bunch of YouTube videos on hot air rework.? They will tell you temperature to use and LOTS more. Comments in (parentheses) are my opinions, and I Am Not An Expert.
- Temperature (start with 350C)
- How much airflow to use (never the maximum!)
- What direction to point the hot air gun (I usually point it straight down; opinions vary.? I'll say "straight down but incline it toward an area of the board with the fewest nearby components")
- Preheating, then focusing on the component to remove.? (Patience!)
- Use of Kaptan tape or aluminum foil to protect heat sensitive, e.g. plastic parts, or to protect nearby components from the hot air stream.
- How to watch the nearby components to see when unwanted joints are being melted.
- Counting on surface tension of the molten solder of nearby components to keep them from flying away (too much airflow and they will fly away anyway).
- How to gently nudge the part while waiting for all the joints to melt (this avoids lifted pads and traces).
- How to remove the part once all the joints have melted (Tweezers!? Buy a very good tweezer).
I like Louis Rossman, so you might start here: I also like NorthridgeFix.? He's a working repair tech, not so much an instructor. Whereas this guy is kind of a klutz: If other people have favorite videos on hot air rework, please post so we can all learn. Rich
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Recommendation is not to switch inductors while transmitting. Really pretty easy to peak up noise or signal on Rx, then just use Cin & Cout to fine tune. Rarely do you need to change inductor, but if you do, turn off Tx during switching.?
--
73, Dan? NM3A
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With my QDX I always tune my transmatch with a NanoVNA before plugging in the QDX. Doing so I am sure the QDX will be plugged in a transmatch plus antenna with less than 1.5 SWR.?
73 - Pierre - FK8IH
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QCX 50W Amp w/Case, Unassembled FS
Hi Group,
I have a QCX 50W Amp with Case, Unassembled and unopened other than to look at the case parts.? $69 shipped to USA.? Please contact me directly with interest.
Thanks and 73,
Robert, WA2T
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Re: Relationship of VDD and VCC
I found some info on this article which explains all V?? cases pretty good:
73?
Barb WB2CBA
|
Re: Relationship of VDD and VCC
Hans,?
Yes, VDD vs VCC can get a little messy especially since the two appear to be connected together on the little IC402P/IC403P power pin schematic. My point was why is there not a 1N4148 blocking diode (or is that just a fixed voltage drop for the LDO) on both VDD power sources (the 3.3V LDO output D103 and the 3.3V output from the switcher Q111).?
Maybe I misread the schematic and VCC is not connected to VDD anywhere.
73 Kees K5BCQ
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Re: 20m+WSPR+Loop Ant+TX without computer
The answer is: yes you can. It is part of the set-up for WSPR on the U3S. To set the clock you will need a clock that shows seconds. It can take a little practice to get close but anything less then 30 sec. should work for a few hours.? As for a loop antenna, OM0EM has a very good qrp multiband (40m-10m) magnetic loop antenna.
Paul
KD9JYV
|
?? These are good, I have one I built and you can have one built by Emtech
??
????????????????????????????????????????????????? Tom, W6TOM
?
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On 2023-08-23 12:08, Gene Domenici wrote:
While waiting patiently (!) for the QMX to arrive, I am trying to fit out a go box. I've found several tuners in kit form. While my arthritic fingers can still solder, they are not up to winding toroids.
Recommendations for ?tuners that are not blinding expensive will be appreciated!
Thanks.
Gene
AC4ZY?
|
Re: Argh QMX Q103/Q104 short
Again, watch a bunch of YouTube videos on hot air rework.? They will tell you temperature to use and LOTS more. Comments in (parentheses) are my opinions, and I Am Not An Expert.
- Temperature (start with 350C)
- How much airflow to use (never the maximum!)
- What direction to point the hot air gun (I usually point it straight down; opinions vary.? I'll say "straight down but incline it toward an area of the board with the fewest nearby components")
- Preheating, then focusing on the component to remove.? (Patience!)
- Use of Kaptan tape or aluminum foil to protect heat sensitive, e.g. plastic parts, or to protect nearby components from the hot air stream.
- How to watch the nearby components to see when unwanted joints are being melted.
- Counting on surface tension of the molten solder of nearby components to keep them from flying away (too much airflow and they will fly away anyway).
- How to gently nudge the part while waiting for all the joints to melt (this avoids lifted pads and traces).
- How to remove the part once all the joints have melted (Tweezers!? Buy a very good tweezer).
I like Louis Rossman, so you might start here: I also like NorthridgeFix.? He's a working repair tech, not so much an instructor. Whereas this guy is kind of a klutz: If other people have favorite videos on hot air rework, please post so we can all learn. Rich
|
Re: QMX AGC... any progress?
Hi Ronan,
I had exactly the same problem, but luckily I was listening via a powered speaker at the time, so it limited the ear damage.
I have stopped using my working QMX until AGC is implemented as I don't want to experience that again!
73,
Jon G4IVV
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Re: QMX - smoke - another C107/Q108 failure
Rick wrote above: "I think the best approach here will be to rig up linear 3.3/5V supplies " Hello Rick and group, I have a similar tought on another thread in this group. Check for the message:
There already is a 3,3V linear regulator in the rig. One should only disable the "handover" from the linear regulator to the buck converter. I seriously intend to do so, at least until I understand what's up with all this happening that makes me feel rather unsure when handling the rig in so many experimental ways.
The rig is small and frail; my hands are big and clumsy... ;-)
For a 5V rail there is no such linear regulator in the rig, so one might add it somewhere where there is enough groundplane on the PCB to solder it to. I would refrain from using one of those scarry xx1117 5V LDO's needlessly having the output electrode on PIN 2 (middle pin) and the cooling tab. In case of a thermic failure, the input gets toasted directly to the output. Whoever designed this chip... (censored)
More civil linear regulators have the cooling tab connected to the ground electrode and if "melt-down" happens, the input gets connected to the ground and there might be hope that a fuse somewhere gets blown before the trace on the PCB burns out. But in most cases, the output stays safely isolated from the ugly happening.
And do not forget to connect the 3,3V regulator to the 5V rail, to avoid unnecessary loss. By doing so, there might be problems with the wake-up timing of the whole combo. As designed, the 3,3V rail feeding the main professor is alive and kicking long before the 5V rail is up. Reversing the order of wake-ups, some latch-up might occur that was not foreseen in the initial sequence. A big electrolitic cap here and there or even some sort of wise watch-dog reset-policy might be needed if wake-up gets bitchy.?
Let's try and please keep us informed of your progress. The more I think, the better I find the idea of replacing the buck converters with linear regulators, if not for good, at least for the testing period, until things settle down. But the more I think, the more I believe that, if I would succeed in replacing the buck converters with LDOs... I would just leave it stay put this way.?
It is also very refreshing to know that the buck converter boards can be tested without endangering the main professor, the one and only, the unreplaceable.
Yours friendly, Razvan dl2arl
|
Paul - AI7JR
Rick Williams - VE7TK
KK4ITX John
Pierre - FK8IH
Barb WB2CBA
DL2ARL