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Hello Stacy, fine to hear about your success! Enjoy this nice radio. And now I guess to know from where ADC_3V3 was coming, from VDD (analog regulated) across the D-S diode of Q111, something

Hello Donat, and RF_IN is connected via L503 to GND. For DC L503 is only a piece of wire with nearly 0 Ohm. So don't worry (see schematics for rev. 2 and higher). 73 Ludwig

Hi Eric, I’ve been having similar thoughts and have been doing FPGA design since 1997. I have an Artix 7 dev board (Digilent Nexys Video) and a Zynq Ultrascale board (Avnet Zuboard) that I’m

Joe, yes, I mean L405a and L405b, which are also referred to as L401a and L401b in the beginning, as you say.

Steve, I am building a QMX+ and doing well with a 1 mm chisel tip on my Hakko. I think that I read something from Hans saying that the board design matches well with a 1 or 2 mm tip. I’ve completed

I'm building this version soon as well, I've been thoroughly going over the manuals and videos. Do you mean L405a and L405b? I've noticed the R4 manual refers these toroids as L401a and L401b in the

Hi all, I am building a mid-band Rev 4 QMX. After installing the L502 toroid, I checked some connections using a continuity tester and noticed that all leads connected to L405a and L405b are connected

Depending upon the core size and type, yeah, heating at 5w is a thing. Especially w/ EFHW antennas. Al, K2ZN

It does sound like maybe some mechanical flexing in the PCB could of shorted something out to the chassis. I would suggest pulling the board out of the case and looking at it from the side to see if

Then we're back to: is there any way the transformer could be overheating. It seems unlikely, but so far, it's the only thing I've personally seen in the wild that leads to the specific symptoms you

That was a typo. It is a proper 49:1 UnUn.

Now I remember, I was hoping to use this to provide 20 volts for the qrp labs 50 watt amp from a 12 volt battery. Do you guys think it will work ? Paul K2DB wrote:

Hi Paul Google image search https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32826674801.html 73 DE muhsin TA1MHS

I ran tests with fiber washer/nylon screw and also with metal washer/metal screw. I also ran the TN0110. Some experimental noise is evident I think but it is too big of a pain to redo everything.

Apparently, I'm learning to understand what I see when I just see a board like that. I'd made a bet with myself that it was a boost or buck/boost. Michael WD0OM

stick 'A1401220' in google, and it will show you they are 250w 10A 8.5-48v DC-DC boost converters ;-) 73, Graham, 2E0WRW <paul.mackanos@...> wrote:

All you need are USB A to C cable and an Iphone camera adapter. Works well with my QMX (not plus). Also have used it with a trusdx, USB audio adapter and iphone camera adapter and also?a

I cannot remember when I purchased these or why I purchased these and I don't remember what purpose I purchased these.Can anybody help me out?I have two of them. PAUL K2DB

I did actually take the QMX apart after I posted, as much out of curiosity as anything else -- I am building a QMX+, but had not actually looked inside the QMX since I bought it used, already built.

Yeah, I realized that after I'd posted, then felt dumb about it. I did take a moment to zero them out. It did not really change the output result, of course.