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I've gotten mine soaking wet several times with noone to blame but myself. As the others sail clean and dry Gemini and handset and you should be fine. Also replace the button battery.?

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On Mon, Dec 9, 2024 at 04:44 AM, Jonathan wrote:

I was out last night on a fairly nice, clear night watching and imaging the planets and around 1am decided to hit the sack for a few hours so I could look at the sun come morning. Since it was clear and not a single cloud out I thought I’d save time and effort by leaving the mount out, already setup for the morning session.

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Well, you can guess what happened during those few hours. The mount was drenched when I went out. At some point a rain shower must have sprung from nowhere to spoil my plans. I was relieved I didn’t leave the scope on as well. I’m not sure where I’d be if the scope got wet like that lol

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Now to my issues. I took the G2 control box off the mount and brought it inside for cleaning and drying. Thankfully there was no water inside the box but, should I be worried about the connectors? I’m particularly worried about the DIN connectors as those seem to be more finicky and delicate? I sadly do not have immediate access to deoxit or something similar, any alternatives I could use if needed?

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As for the mount’s mechanics, should I clean and relube everything? Just dry it all as best as I can and let it be? Something in between? My main concerns would be the motors, gearboxes and worm mechanisms.

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I wish I could say lesson learned but, I know myself lol. And to show Murphy does really exist, this all happened a few weeks before I get my telegizmos cover that I purchased a few weeks ago. Dangit

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Thanks for your help

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Jonathan

Just disconnect all cables and wipe everything down including connectors with a soft lint free cloth turning regularly.? Don't use any canned gas on the mount itself, this just forces dust and moisture into the drivetrain.? The less you mess with the mount itself in this case the better.? ?Let it dry indoors for a few days.?

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It sounds like you already opened the Gemini 2 case and for that I do recommend blowing it out paying attention to the connectors. Leave it open and let it air dry in a warm room and close it back up in a couple days.? The other thing I would do is remove the servo motors and open the electronics cover and also use canned air to get out any moisture that may have been trapped inside the servo case.? Rain tends to get inside these as well as spiders for some reason.? Blow them out and let them air dry in a warm room with the Gemini.?

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Wait a couple days, a fan blowing lightly.over the electronics helps the process.? Reassemble and enjoy.

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On Mon, Dec 9, 2024 at 07:29 AM, Jonathan wrote:

I do recall L6 being more finicky with balance than L5 was, but I think that was resolved? Sorry, not entirely sure about that last statement :)

Hi Jonathan,

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If your mount grease is fairly new, I wouldn't bother relubing. I've had my mounts dripping with water at the end of the night plenty a time with no ill effect, just let it dry up the next day. Older grease can start to absorb some moisture, which can cause problems especially once the temperature fall near freezing.

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Motors are not water-proof, so might get some moisture on the inside. I'd recommend that you dry them well before trying to use if you suspect that water could've gotten in. I wouldn't worry about gearboxes, again, just dry them as best as you can.

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Regards,

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? ?-Paul

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On Mon, Dec 9, 2024 at 07:44 AM, Jonathan wrote:

Buy a circuit board cleaner or CO contact cleaner. ?Take out PCB spray ?till its washes PCB let dry. ?Put PCB back in and it should be ok. ? Do this on bench try not to generate static Aka on a carpet environment?

Alternate use IPA the best purest you can buy (99%+) and make a solution20% distilled water 80% IPA and use a “fitch” type brush to clean PCB with this. You can also get IPA sprays. ?But 100% tends to cool the parts and attract moisture a Little. ?

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A fitch brush is a cheap brush wood handle doesn’t generate ESD. ?
https://www.paintequip.com.au/shop/monarch-touch-up-brush-6mm-30mm/

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Cheers. It’ll be fine.?

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Brendan

I was out last night on a fairly nice, clear night watching and imaging the planets and around 1am decided to hit the sack for a few hours so I could look at the sun come morning. Since it was clear and not a single cloud out I thought I’d save time and effort by leaving the mount out, already setup for the morning session.

?

Well, you can guess what happened during those few hours. The mount was drenched when I went out. At some point a rain shower must have sprung from nowhere to spoil my plans. I was relieved I didn’t leave the scope on as well. I’m not sure where I’d be if the scope got wet like that lol

?

Now to my issues. I took the G2 control box off the mount and brought it inside for cleaning and drying. Thankfully there was no water inside the box but, should I be worried about the connectors? I’m particularly worried about the DIN connectors as those seem to be more finicky and delicate? I sadly do not have immediate access to deoxit or something similar, any alternatives I could use if needed?

?

As for the mount’s mechanics, should I clean and relube everything? Just dry it all as best as I can and let it be? Something in between? My main concerns would be the motors, gearboxes and worm mechanisms.

?

I wish I could say lesson learned but, I know myself lol. And to show Murphy does really exist, this all happened a few weeks before I get my telegizmos cover that I purchased a few weeks ago. Dangit

?

Thanks for your help

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Jonathan

Hi Gabe,

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my first suggestion would be to remove the motor from the mount and test it with no load. If it’s still stalling then there definitely is something wrong. Could be the motor or, more likely, a faulty software update. If it doesn’t stall when unloaded then it could be a balance issue. I do recall L6 being more finicky with balance than L5 was, but I think that was resolved? Sorry, not entirely sure about that last statement :)

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good luck

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jonathan

On Sun, Dec 8, 2024 at 09:13 PM, gabe wrote:

Hello community,

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I recently took my Gemini Units to Losmandy for a hardware/software upgrades.

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On returning them to the mounts and turning on the power, I get an immediate and repeating RA Stall on the HC. ?I tried a number of things to get it working...releasing the worm completely, reducing Slew speed to 400, 2 different AC adapters @ 12V and 15V, tried a 12V LiPo (which is what it always ran on previously), swapped RA & Dec cables....nothing seems to work.

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I have an email out to Losmandy, and they are wonderful to work with so I expect to hear from them soon. ?I thought to ask the group here in the mean time.

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Thank you!?

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Hmm, this has happened a few times.? Have you rebooted a couple times?? Double check the battery with a DMM, and if that's good do an HGM reset and retest.? ?

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Keep us.posted!?

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Hello community,

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I recently took my Gemini Units to Losmandy for a hardware/software upgrades.

?

On returning them to the mounts and turning on the power, I get an immediate and repeating RA Stall on the HC. ?I tried a number of things to get it working...releasing the worm completely, reducing Slew speed to 400, 2 different AC adapters @ 12V and 15V, tried a 12V LiPo (which is what it always ran on previously), swapped RA & Dec cables....nothing seems to work.

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I have an email out to Losmandy, and they are wonderful to work with so I expect to hear from them soon. ?I thought to ask the group here in the mean time.

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Thank you!?

On Sat, Nov 30, 2024 at 01:41 PM, <rickdarden0899@...> wrote:

I just purchased a used but like new AZ8. I owned a G11 from the Celestron days so I am familiar with Losmandy products.

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I have the typical stiction in the movement of the axes and the stuttering of the slo-mo controls.

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I have read just about every online discussion on this mount and have dialed in the worm pretty good where there is little backlash and the stuttering is fairly minimal.

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But for the stiction in the axes, what I am referring to is the "pop" when an axis starts to move. It happens even with the clutches fully loosened but, of course, more so when the clutches are tightened up a bit.

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Everything I read about the clutch pads is that they need to be dry. This makes sense for the G8 and G11, but for the AZ8, we want the clutches to only be engaged enough to prevent any minor off-balance issues from moving the mount.

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So what I did was apply a very, very thin layer of a low viscosity telfon grease to the clutch pads. I mean a very thin layer. Now the axes move without any popping even with the clutches fairly tight. It is very, very smooth.

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With grease on the clutch pads, the axes will easily move with a little bit of force even with the clutches fairly tight. So beware of any major balance issues in Altitude before you let go of the scope. But there is still plenty of clamping force to deal with minor balance issues. This is not an issue with the AZ axis since it is vertical.

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For all you AZ8 owners, give it a try. You can always remove the grease.??

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Preaching to the choir.? And this is not just for AZ8 owners, I have always done this with just the faintest suggestion of grease on Losmandy mount clutch discs I use for PUSH-TO visual observation.? There was and is still nothing else on the market for PUSH-TO visual observation with a balanced mount like a Losmandy GM8s or G11s digital drive mount with a NEXUS DSC, they are the best at this.?

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I just purchased a used but like new AZ8. I owned a G11 from the Celestron days so I am familiar with Losmandy products.

?

I have the typical stiction in the movement of the axes and the stuttering of the slo-mo controls.

?

I have read just about every online discussion on this mount and have dialed in the worm pretty good where there is little backlash and the stuttering is fairly minimal.

?

But for the stiction in the axes, what I am referring to is the "pop" when an axis starts to move. It happens even with the clutches fully loosened but, of course, more so when the clutches are tightened up a bit.

?

Everything I read about the clutch pads is that they need to be dry. This makes sense for the G8 and G11, but for the AZ8, we want the clutches to only be engaged enough to prevent any minor off-balance issues from moving the mount.

?

So what I did was apply a very, very thin layer of a low viscosity telfon grease to the clutch pads. I mean a very thin layer. Now the axes move without any popping even with the clutches fairly tight. It is very, very smooth.

?

With grease on the clutch pads, the axes will easily move with a little bit of force even with the clutches fairly tight. So beware of any major balance issues in Altitude before you let go of the scope. But there is still plenty of clamping force to deal with minor balance issues. This is not an issue with the AZ axis since it is vertical.

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For all you AZ8 owners, give it a try. You can always remove the grease.??

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We don't do shame here, it's just complicated.? All these years later the latest Gemini firmware still offerers very sophisticated internal operations and user features.?

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I don't know if anyone has looked at how many options and their permutations the Gemini 2 L6.x code set offers but between the web interface, the HC UI and gemini.net UI there are probably more ways to setup a Gemini 2 wrong than right.??

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It's easy to get it mostly right but much harder to get it just right- you can quote me on that.?

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Thank you Chip Louie! That was it. Jeez! I'm just going to hang my head in shame! Thank you again.

Did you save the settings??

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I’ve been having a problem with the hand controller starting up in “Night Mode” when I turn the Gemini 2 unit on. The battery is new, I’ve reseated the SD card and reseated the screen. I can set it to “Daytime Mode” and it turns green. I can set it to “Dawn Mode” and it turns blue. When it starts up, it is marked as “Daytime Mode” but displays red for “Nighttime Mode”. ?The adaptive color box is checked. I uncheck it and it turns to “Daylight Mode”. I can turn the unit off, turn it back on and it opens up in “Nighttime Mode” and the adaptive color box is checked again. Can someone shed some light on how to solve this? It’s got me scratching my head. Thank you in advance!

Thanks, Paul!?

On Tue, Nov 26, 2024 at 06:00 PM, George Stallings wrote:

Hi folks,

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Does anyone know which mount or mount settings to use for PEMPro for the G11T? That specific mount doesn't show up on the list. Do I just input the settings manually??

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George

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Hi folks,

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Does anyone know which mount or mount settings to use for PEMPro for the G11T? That specific mount doesn't show up on the list. Do I just input the settings manually??

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George

Yes. ?I bias the load a small amount to the east and I see a clear difference on my G11T. ?Does not need to be much. ?Just a few lbs shifted to the east.?

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JMD