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Date

Newbie: GM811g Meridian Flip, How ?

 
Edited

balance, level, model 6 stars completed.

I¡¯m imaging Mars at it moves from East to West across the Meridian, the GM811 follows Mars to the far south west at 10PM but never FLIPS , What setting did I overlook ?????

The balance bar always points east. ? ? ??My Location is near Los Angeles CA, USA


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

 

Jim, I noticed that you have the setting to send default profile to Gemini on connect in Gemini.NET Advanced settings. That could be the source of many problems if your profile wasn't saved with correct settings. This could explain why things change after you connect to the mount. Uncheck this setting and try without it.

Regards,

? ? ?-Paul


On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 06:01 PM, Jim Waters wrote:
Plate solving always works the first time when I pick Telescope to NINA.? I have noticed that the Lat/Long on the HC always changes after connecting to NINA.? I will try NINA to Telescope this weekend.


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

Jim Waters
 

Just checked the framing of a target with respect to TheSkyX.? The 30 arc-seconds above is closer to 20 arc-minutes.


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

Jim Waters
 

Plate solving always works the first time when I pick Telescope to NINA.? I have noticed that the Lat/Long on the HC always changes after connecting to NINA.? I will try NINA to Telescope this weekend.


Re: OK, Basic Question about ZWO ASI290MM guide camera....

Sonny Edmonds
 

Okey Dokey, got it Brian. Thank You!

Bloody out here on the cutting edge... ;^)

I checked and my copies updated fine. (Once I went around Windows panic mode.)
Got it on both computers.

--
SonnyE


(I suggest viewed in full screen)


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

 

>>> I pick Telescope To NINA.

if you are plate solving you should pick NINA to Telescope, assuming that's an option

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 2:03 PM Jim Waters <jimwaters@...> wrote:
On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 01:28 PM, Brian Valente wrote:
"i was surprised to see using the hand controller in there"? I know...? I haven't completely switched over to the new NINA usage model.? Maybe next month - New Years Resolution.
Here's what I do.
  1. Turn on and set Gemini-2 Lat/Long and Time.
  2. Run PoleMaster and Polar Align.
  3. Model the mount.? I usually pick 2 stars in the West and 2 in the South.? Pine trees are in the way to the East.
  4. Turn on NINA and connect to everything.? Camera, Mount, Focuser, TheSkyX Pro...etc
  5. Use HC to slew to imaging target.
  6. Run NINA auto-focus.
  7. Run TheSkyX Pro and select / frame above target.
  8. Set up NINA imaging sequence and link to target reported by TheSkyX - import Lat/Long coordinates to NINA.
  9. Image target until meridian flip.? Mount does a meridian flip and NINA runs ASTAP to center target.? Target is always off center almost to edge of field.? I rerun ASTAP.? Same thing, ASTAP assumes its centered.? I need to use the HC to center the target.
If I decide to select another target for step 9 on the other side of pier I have the same issue.? I use the HC to slew to the new target, change TheSkyX target and import the new target into NINA, ASTAP is always off.

At first I thought the mount was shifting but ASTAP should still recenter the target based on the new plate solve.? One note:? The Lat/Long between NINA (Decimal format) and Gemini (Degrees, Hours, Minutes and Seconds) never agree.? NINA asked me which one to pick (Sync).? I pick Telescope To NINA.

Example:
Telescope
  • Lat - 33.3166666667
  • Long - -111.9666666667
NINA
  • Lat - 33.3333333333
  • Long - -11.9833333333



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

Jim Waters
 
Edited

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 01:28 PM, Brian Valente wrote:
"i was surprised to see using the hand controller in there"? I know...? I haven't completely switched over to the new NINA usage model.? Maybe next month - New Years Resolution.
Here's what I do.
  1. Turn on and set Gemini-2 Lat/Long and Time.
  2. Run PoleMaster and Polar Align.
  3. Model the mount.? I usually pick 2 stars in the West and 2 in the South.? Pine trees are in the way to the East.
  4. Turn on NINA and connect to everything.? Camera, Mount, Focuser, TheSkyX Pro...etc
  5. Use HC to slew to imaging target.
  6. Run NINA auto-focus.
  7. Run TheSkyX Pro and select / frame above target.
  8. Set up NINA imaging sequence and link to target reported by TheSkyX - import Lat/Long coordinates to NINA.
  9. Image target until meridian flip.? Mount does a meridian flip and NINA runs ASTAP to center target.? Target is always off center almost to edge of field.? I rerun ASTAP.? Same thing, ASTAP assumes its centered.? I need to use the HC to center the target.
If I decide to select another target for step 9 on the other side of pier I have the same issue.? I use the HC to slew to the new target, change TheSkyX target and import the new target into NINA, ASTAP is always off.

At first I thought the mount was shifting but ASTAP should still recenter the target based on the new plate solve.? One note:? The Lat/Long between NINA (Decimal format) and Gemini (Degrees, Hours, Minutes and Seconds) never agree.? NINA asked me which one to pick (Sync).? I pick Telescope To NINA.

Example:
Telescope
  • Lat - 33.3166666667
  • Long - -111.9666666667
NINA
  • Lat - 33.3333333333
  • Long - -11.9833333333

I plan to do more testing early next week.


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

 

What is the process you are using for goto/centering?

i was surprised to see using the hand controller in there, so maybe i"m not understanding how you're going about it

i can try to replicate here.?

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 12:24 PM Jim Waters <jimwaters@...> wrote:
On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 01:06 PM, Jim Waters wrote:
My m
Brian - I am guessing the 30 arc-seconds.? It could be more.? When I first do a GoTo using the HC and running ASTAP there's no issues.? If the target is out of view ASTAP will plate solve and 'center' the target.? The object is in the cross hairs - 'dead-on'.? After I do a meridian flip or change side of pier things get funny.? Naturally the target needs to be recentered.? I see ASTAP making corrections to the mount and ASTAP completes.? Its always off, almost outside of the FOV.? ASTAP pointing Tolerance is 0.1 arcmin.



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

Jim Waters
 

Thanks Paul and Brian for jumping in.


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

Jim Waters
 

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 01:06 PM, Jim Waters wrote:
My m
Brian - I am guessing the 30 arc-seconds.? It could be more.? When I first do a GoTo using the HC and running ASTAP there's no issues.? If the target is out of view ASTAP will plate solve and 'center' the target.? The object is in the cross hairs - 'dead-on'.? After I do a meridian flip or change side of pier things get funny.? Naturally the target needs to be recentered.? I see ASTAP making corrections to the mount and ASTAP completes.? Its always off, almost outside of the FOV.? ASTAP pointing Tolerance is 0.1 arcmin.


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

 

ah I think i understand now what you're saying

so if the result of centering is off. somewhere there is a setting that isn't correct. Something that small could be J2000 is set somewhere it shouldn't be.?

Is there any way you can reduce the number of variables here - maybe use ASTAP to solve and manually sync??

FYI I use ASTAP nightly and it solves accurately for me


On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 12:06 PM Jim Waters <jimwaters@...> wrote:
My modeling could be better but I don't see how that would cause issues with ASTAP plate-solving and incorrectly recentering the scope.? ASTAP successfully completes the plate solving according to the display but its always ~30 arc-seconds off after a meridian flip or changing the side of pier.? If I restart plate solving I get the same thing.? About 30 arc-seconds off.?



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

Jim Waters
 

My modeling could be better but I don't see how that would cause issues with ASTAP plate-solving and incorrectly recentering the scope.? ASTAP successfully completes the plate solving according to the display but its always ~30 arc-seconds off after a meridian flip or changing the side of pier.? If I restart plate solving I get the same thing.? About 30 arc-seconds off.?


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

 

Hi Jim

>>>HC ASTAP plate solving is always ~30 arc-seconds off.?

30 arcseconds? That is quite small?

Are you able to solve and center to within your tolerance? My centering routines for SGP are larger than what you spec'd around 50"?

usually if you are doing a meridian flip and it's slightly off, that is cone error.?


if you feel like you want to open a ticket on this send an email to techsupport at losmandy dot com. We'll need the logs for NINA and ASCOM and probably TSX (assuming you have TSX ascom driver in the mix there).?

On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 11:30 AM Jim Waters <jimwaters@...> wrote:

[Edited Message Follows]

Brian

I am having similar or the same issue.? I am using the current release of NINA 1.10 HF2 Beta 06 and have a GM811G.? Goto using the Losmandy HC, the ASTAP plate-solving works as expected but after I do a meridian flip or change the side of pier using the HC ASTAP plate solving is always ~30 arc-seconds off.? Gemini Expects J2000... is OFF.? I am using the current release of Gemini.NET, ASCOM 6.5 SP1 and TheSkyX Pro.

There's no problems doing the above with a CEM mount with ASCOM, NINA or TheSkyX.



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

 

Jim,

ASCOM driver and Gemini don't change precession settings after doing a meridian flip. Do you have a Gemini model built for both sides of the meridian??If you do a goto after a flip using the physical HC, does it center the object correctly?

Regards,

? ?-Paul


On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 02:28 PM, Jim Waters wrote:
Brian

I am having similar or the same issue.? I am using the current release of NINA 1.10 HF2 Beta 06 and have a GM811G.? Goto using the Losmandy HC, the ASTAP plate-solving works as expected but after I do a meridian flip or change the side of pier using the HC ASTAP plate solving is always ~30 arc-seconds off.? Gemini Expects J2000... is OFF.? I am using the current release of Gemini.NET, ASCOM 6.5 SP1 and TheSkyX Pro.

There's no problems doing the above with a CEM mount with ASCOM, NINA or TheSkyX.


Re: NINA Controlling Losmandy G11. Coordinate are not the same. Why?

Jim Waters
 
Edited

Brian

I am having similar or the same issue.? I am using the current release of NINA 1.10 HF2 Beta 06 and have a GM811G.? Goto using the Losmandy HC, the ASTAP plate-solving works as expected but after I do a meridian flip or change the side of pier using the HC ASTAP plate solving is always ~30 arc-seconds off.? Gemini Expects J2000... is OFF.? I am using the current release of Gemini.NET, ASCOM 6.5 SP1 and TheSkyX Pro.

There's no problems doing the above with a CEM mount with ASCOM, NINA or TheSkyX.


Re: OK, Basic Question about ZWO ASI290MM guide camera....

 

Hey Sonny

you might try the latest 2.6.9dev2 release

it includes multi-star guiding which in? my experience is 10-15% improvement over regular guiding

just check the box :)



On Fri, Dec 4, 2020 at 10:36 AM Sonny Edmonds <pedmondsjr@...> wrote:
Hi John,
Yep, it did. I uninstalled my copy of PHD2 I had been using with my SSAG camera. The idea here was to start fairly fresh with a new copy.
Then I downloaded a new copy of PHD2 v2.6.9 for Windows. And it automatically started the wizard to walk me in.
It just threw me about the focal length. I do have subsequent install profiles, so I try to give the latest one a unique address, this one I ended in "5".
I am very pleased with my imaging results from last night. Teeny tiny stars and greater detail.

To be fair, I decided to image The Flaming Star Nebula, something I have done before, but so I could do a side-by-side comparison, roughly, of the results I got with my old guiding camera vs: the new higher definition ASI290MM guiding my 811.
During the wizard install process, I could not advance without putting a focal length in the appropriate box. So there is that Fail Safe in the pages the wizard walked me through. Good to note.
I normally set-up an informal hook up in my rats nest central (Home Office) where the wizard can detect the camera when it asks for it. Just a USB 2 cable connected to my Telescope hub, and the onboard wiring already in place between the hub and the item. I don't plug in until asked for it.
Nice point is that , (USB-a to USB-new size. Mini?) (About 19.x inches long). So I just changed out my old cable for the new.
The change was strictly the camera itself. Not the Guide Scope. And I was pleased it came up almost centered in the display. Only very minor adjusting of the guide scope to center the image in the Bullseye of PHD2.
All in all, a very easy modification. With surprisingly great results, photographically.

My GM811GHD runs so incredibly well, it really shows results when given better input. In this case, much finer guiding signals. Well, twice as fine pixel wise, and about 33% higher definition guiding references. And a much finer detailed star field in PHD2's display. I can see stars that were faint fuzzy representations before.
Couple those improvements with the mounts abilities to image through meridians, I can really enjoy my run away, hours and hours long imaging where I drag down more and more detail.
Then I do very minimal Post Processing of my OSC Atik Infinity Camera images. My aim is to present as close to "as taken"
?images as I can. Like this, where only light noise reduction and converted to jpg format to make it light on the web servers:



300s (5 minute) x 10 = 3000s stack, jpg for web.
I'm pleased with the tight little stars. ;^)

--
SonnyE


(I suggest viewed in full screen)



--
Brian?



Brian Valente
portfolio


Re: OK, Basic Question about ZWO ASI290MM guide camera....

Sonny Edmonds
 

Hi John,
Yep, it did. I uninstalled my copy of PHD2 I had been using with my SSAG camera. The idea here was to start fairly fresh with a new copy.
Then I downloaded a new copy of PHD2 v2.6.9 for Windows. And it automatically started the wizard to walk me in.
It just threw me about the focal length. I do have subsequent install profiles, so I try to give the latest one a unique address, this one I ended in "5".
I am very pleased with my imaging results from last night. Teeny tiny stars and greater detail.

To be fair, I decided to image The Flaming Star Nebula, something I have done before, but so I could do a side-by-side comparison, roughly, of the results I got with my old guiding camera vs: the new higher definition ASI290MM guiding my 811.
During the wizard install process, I could not advance without putting a focal length in the appropriate box. So there is that Fail Safe in the pages the wizard walked me through. Good to note.
I normally set-up an informal hook up in my rats nest central (Home Office) where the wizard can detect the camera when it asks for it. Just a USB 2 cable connected to my Telescope hub, and the onboard wiring already in place between the hub and the item. I don't plug in until asked for it.
Nice point is that , (USB-a to USB-new size. Mini?) (About 19.x inches long). So I just changed out my old cable for the new.
The change was strictly the camera itself. Not the Guide Scope. And I was pleased it came up almost centered in the display. Only very minor adjusting of the guide scope to center the image in the Bullseye of PHD2.
All in all, a very easy modification. With surprisingly great results, photographically.

My GM811GHD runs so incredibly well, it really shows results when given better input. In this case, much finer guiding signals. Well, twice as fine pixel wise, and about 33% higher definition guiding references. And a much finer detailed star field in PHD2's display. I can see stars that were faint fuzzy representations before.
Couple those improvements with the mounts abilities to image through meridians, I can really enjoy my run away, hours and hours long imaging where I drag down more and more detail.
Then I do very minimal Post Processing of my OSC Atik Infinity Camera images. My aim is to present as close to "as taken"
?images as I can. Like this, where only light noise reduction and converted to jpg format to make it light on the web servers:



300s (5 minute) x 10 = 3000s stack, jpg for web.
I'm pleased with the tight little stars. ;^)

--
SonnyE


(I suggest viewed in full screen)


Re: USB extender

 

Hi Paul,
Thanks for your answer. But perhaps I didn't expose the problem correctly. Without the USB-LAN extender device, I connect the gadgets into the USB ports of the computer: camara 1 in the port 1, focuser in the port 2,...and the mount in the port 3. For the mount the drive dedicates a specific COM, in the example, COM3. If I connect it in the USB port 1, it will be COM 1, etc. If I do it through the USB-LAN extender that connect to the computer via USB port 1 (or any other?port)? all the USB gadgets work well, but when?I try control the mount? using a USB port of the USB_LAN extender, and in this way to eliminate the need of other?cable, and I connect the SkyX, the computer says that it is not possible because two devices (or programs) are using the same port. I hope?it's clearer now.

El jue, 3 dic 2020 a las 22:23, Paul Kanevsky (<yh@...>) escribi¨®:
Hi Luis,

Using the virtual pass-through port in ASCOM driver is the complicated way to do this. Using TheSkyX ASCOM connector configured to connect to Gemini.NET driver is the easier way. Gemini.NET is a hub and allows any number of ASCOM applications to connect to Gemini at the same time.

Regards,

? ? -Paul


Re: Cleaning and lubing the worm and worm gear

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Wow! ?Using the WayBack Machine to find that one. ?Thanks.

I¡¯m still on the fence as to whether to dig into this. ?I think I¡¯ll see if the cleaning and re-lubing of the needle bearings fixed my immediate problem. ?I should be able to get out tonight to try it.

Bill

On Dec 4, 2020, at 8:55 AM, Edward Beshore via <ebeshore@...> wrote:

Bill - I should add that removing the worm involves removing the hex head cap screws that hold the two worm blocks, and that are loosened when adjusting the worm. This will make cleaning and access to the worm gear easier. Once you have loosened them, you have committed to re-adjusting the worm, and so removal is not a big step up. That said, I would not recommend disassembling the worm from the worm blocks - keep them all together.

When I set out to do this, I found the instructions at this site to be very useful



With this guidance, you can easily remove the covers that expose the entire worm gear which makes cleaning much easier. Its important to be methodical when tearing the mount down so reassembly doesn't result in your asking "does the wavy washer go on first or last?" Snap some pictures to record disassembly ?or lay things out in careful order as they come off.

Finally, with respect to my remark about using mineral spirits to remove grease ¡ª it works well, its not terribly volatile and nasty, but it does leave a residue and I would do the alcohol rinse. If you use another solvent, you may not need the alcohol step, just do it in a well ventilated area.

If you have a friend who repairs engines or is pretty handy mechanically, have them give you a hand.?

--?
Bill Tschumy
Otherwise -- Longmont, CO




Re: Cleaning and lubing the worm and worm gear

Edward Beshore
 

Bill - I should add that removing the worm involves removing the hex head cap screws that hold the two worm blocks, and that are loosened when adjusting the worm. This will make cleaning and access to the worm gear easier. Once you have loosened them, you have committed to re-adjusting the worm, and so removal is not a big step up. That said, I would not recommend disassembling the worm from the worm blocks - keep them all together.

When I set out to do this, I found the instructions at this site to be very useful



With this guidance, you can easily remove the covers that expose the entire worm gear which makes cleaning much easier. Its important to be methodical when tearing the mount down so reassembly doesn't result in your asking "does the wavy washer go on first or last?" Snap some pictures to record disassembly ?or lay things out in careful order as they come off.

Finally, with respect to my remark about using mineral spirits to remove grease ¡ª it works well, its not terribly volatile and nasty, but it does leave a residue and I would do the alcohol rinse. If you use another solvent, you may not need the alcohol step, just do it in a well ventilated area.

If you have a friend who repairs engines or is pretty handy mechanically, have them give you a hand.?