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Derek, Remove just one screw, noting the tension with a precise instrument - the human hand. Then take it to a DIY or Ace store as suggested by one of our other friends. When you get back to the mount

Derek, you are a lot further along than I am. I'm doing baby steps to learn this mount. I am very sure that when I start doing AP the frustrations are going to happen I know this to be a truth.

Oh, but Derek, I live close enough to drop in at the factory..... 8^) Thank You Magnus, it looks interesting. But I'm more apt to stay with the programs I have.

That's so awesome, Deric! I had *serious* frustration for months, and again, it wasn't the mounts fault.. But I do have a bit of wisdom for "newbies".. I think I made a fundamental mistake from the

In Large Derek, that is how I learn, I forgot to put the minus sign the time zone ( 6 ) instead of ( -6 ) my mount thought it was 12 hours ahead of me. A bit of frustration, then I remembered a

For reasons unknown, the Gemini can end up with erroneous T pointing model values. To fix this: 1. Park the mount 2. Power off and on...in "cold boot" 3. Do your star alignments. Do 3 in the East of

What do you think made it go bonkers? *** Undoubtedly *User Error*.. Either Stellarium did it, as I was slewing around with Stellarium for the first time, as I don't have a pointing device anymore

But, if you would like to reinvent the wheel, you could start here <https://www.mcmaster.com/motor-couplings> . *** NOPE!.. I shouldn't have done that! Does anyone know where the Oldham's Losmandy

The couplings shouldn't wear much, unless something it worrying them too much. I'd be looking for one or the other shaft run-outs, possibly something bent. And I'd want a spare coupler if I was you.

I can understand. Believe me, after a lifetime of Industrial Electrical work you just develop that itch and eye and ear for making things better. OCD is a good label. I often got put on "Special

Hi Derek, You might be correct, but your Oldham is probably not worn out. It's just not assembled well enough yet. The middle nylon part does not hold the metal rods in place... It is that you must

I will check out the link.. Thanks! HOWEVER.. No I don't want to reinvent the wheel or break things so if it is a BAD IDEA.. I will just go ahead and buy a couple new Oldham's and think of them as

I'd say just email them and maybe they have the answer they are out until next week right now, but they are usually good about info like this Brian

Thanks.. But I can't do that as the guidescope is mounted and aligned.. There is NO WAY I am removing one of these screws now.. I had expected to find the right PDF from Losmandy - they are very good

Thanks Derek. Yeah, I tend to do a lot of proof running to be sure my telescope and attachments aren't going to accidentally jam up the works. I was reading about setting the limits earlier today in

a list! Only 15 things at a time! ha that would be first on my list of things to do to improve any PE in your mount i know there's a few different approaches to this: hardware folks tend to focus on

Anthony Q The gear box, I was hoping it would take out some of the spike at 7.5x?? I'll find out I would like to know what the worm drive spike in the beginning is from. But I'm hoping it might be

I spent ~42 years in the heavy side of the Industrial Electrical field. Every machine I worked with where shaft to shaft coupling was done, flexible couplings where used. Even with very heavy

I can run everything outside, from inside, as if I was sitting at that station. *** Don't do that until you have set the Safety Limits properly or you can drive the scope into the mount or tripod..

Hi! You might want to have a look at Ekos/Indi, nicely packaged in the Stellarmate for instance: https://www.stellarmate.com/ This is what I use for my G11. Only this. Best, Magnus Den 2020-01-01 kl.