Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
Hi Michael, I wonder though...did the original question about mount tracking too fast and too slow in East and West...did that
puzzle ever get solved? I am not sure it has been solved. However, without tracking rate correction a mount will always appear to be tracking slightly fast when it is tracking at perfect sidereal rate and perfectly polar aligned and has no flexure. That's because at the horizon about 30 arc-minutes of sky below the actual physical horizon can be seen because of refraction. Refraction "compresses" the amount of sky that can be seen so normal sidereal rate appears faster than it is, except right at the zenith. I haven't been following the whole thread but looking back the original poster (Keith) said the star appeared to track fast on the East, but when he flipped the mount the direction of the drift was in the "opposite direction". This is ambiguous as it could be the result of the camera being flipped, so it could still be from refraction. It could also be from the dynamic changes to mount flexure that can occur as pointing angle changes. Best regards, -Ray Gralak Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): Author of PEMPro: Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: Author of PulseGuide: Author of Sigma: -----Original Message-----
From: Losmandy_users@... [mailto:Losmandy_users@...]
Sent: Monday, November 6, 2017 6:49 AM
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: RE: [Losmandy_users] Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
Hi Ray,
Thanks for that ...I did understand that but....
I somehow missed the statement that the first step: get AZ correct by the drift method, while pointed at Meridian
and Equator, must already be accomplished.
Then I understand adjusting ELevation at the zenith...as long as AZ is right the only remaining error must be EL.
I like that idea and will try it, since my East and West are totally obstructed.
Sorry for my mis-reading.
-----
I wonder though...did the original question about mount tracking too fast and too slow in East and West...did that
puzzle ever get solved?
Best,
Michael
On Nov 6, 2017 5:05 AM, "'Ray Gralak (Groups)' groups3@... [Losmandy_users]"
<Losmandy_users@... <mailto:Losmandy_users@...> > wrote:
> When using the PHD2 drift tool, it is only the DEC drift you want to null out (not RA drift),
> as that tool says in its instructions.
Yes, but as Greg said, this technique is different in that it uses RA drift at the zenith to adjust Altitude polar
alignment instead of standard Dec drift in the East or West.
There are advantages and disadvantages to this method, but the intent is to null out RA (and Dec) drift
near the meridian, which is where usually the best quality images can be obtained.
-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center):
physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc <
physics.com/index.htm?products/accessories/software/apcc/apcc>
Author of PEMPro:
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver:
Author of PulseGuide:
Author of Sigma:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Losmandy_users@... [mailto:Losmandy_users@...
<mailto:Losmandy_users@...> ]
> Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2017 1:16 PM
> To: Losmandy_users@...
> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
>
>
>
> Hi Greg,
>
> Thanks for the notes.
>
> When using the PHD2 drift tool, it is only the DEC drift you want to null out (not RA drift), as that tool
says in its
> instructions.
>
> [ repeat these 2 steps...
>
> When you are pointing first near meridian and celestial equator, only adjust the AZ knobs.
>
> When pointing next, as far East or West as possible, then again look only at DEC drift, and null out with
the AZ
> knob.
>
> ]
>
> Repeat...[...] til you are satisfied.
>
> You really don't need to bother about the PEC... you can ignore errors in that for the drift alignment (by
PHD2
> anyway).
>
> Best,
> Michael
>
> On Nov 5, 2017 1:03 PM, "beneckerus@... [Losmandy_users]"
<Losmandy_users@... <mailto:Losmandy_users@...> >
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This subject is a current topic on the Astro-Physics group (#59424) and the subject of using PHD2 was
> discussed. PHD2 displays both the DEC and RA drift in the Drift Alignment tool. So instead of letting
PHD2 slew
> the scope to the East for the altitude adjustment, slew it manually to the zenith. Turn on your mount's
PEC to
> minimize RA motion. Run the drift session for a full worm cycle to cancel out the effects of the remaining
PE.
> Adjust the altitude to minimize the RA drift. There is no point in doing the Eastern altitude adjustment first
as this
> will always change for the minimum RA drift adjustment.
>
> I found it interesting to think about this at the limit of doing polar alignment at the equator, where the
> intersection of the celestial equator and the meridian is also the zenith. Using this method there you
would not
> move the scope from the zenith for either adjustment
>
> Greg
>
>
>
|
Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
Hi Ray,
Thanks for that ...I did understand that but....
I somehow missed the statement that the first step:? get AZ correct by the drift method, while pointed at Meridian and Equator, must already be accomplished.?
Then I understand adjusting ELevation at the zenith...as long as AZ is right the only remaining error must be EL.??
I like that idea and will try it, since my East and West are totally obstructed.
Sorry for my mis-reading.
-----
I wonder though...did the original question about mount tracking too fast and too slow in East and West...did that puzzle ever get solved?
Best, Michael?
?
> When using the PHD2 drift tool, it is only the DEC drift you want to null out (not RA drift),
> as that tool says in its instructions.
Yes, but as Greg said, this technique is different in that it uses RA drift at the zenith to adjust Altitude polar alignment instead of standard Dec drift in the East or West.
There are advantages and disadvantages to this method, but the intent is to null out RA (and Dec) drift near the meridian, which is where usually the best quality images can be obtained.
-Ray Gralak
Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center):
Author of PEMPro:
Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver:
Author of PulseGuide:
Author of Sigma:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Losmandy_users@... [mailto:Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com]
> Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2017 1:16 PM
> To: Losmandy_users@...
> Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
>
>
>
> Hi Greg,
>
> Thanks for the notes.
>
> When using the PHD2 drift tool, it is only the DEC drift you want to null out (not RA drift), as that tool says in its
> instructions.
>
> [ repeat these 2 steps...
>
> When you are pointing first near meridian and celestial equator, only adjust the AZ knobs.
>
> When pointing next, as far East or West as possible, then again look only at DEC drift, and null out with the AZ
> knob.
>
> ]
>
> Repeat...[...] til you are satisfied.
>
> You really don't need to bother about the PEC... you can ignore errors in that for the drift alignment (by PHD2
> anyway).
>
> Best,
> Michael
>
> On Nov 5, 2017 1:03 PM, "beneckerus@... [Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@yahoogroups.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> This subject is a current topic on the Astro-Physics group (#59424) and the subject of using PHD2 was
> discussed. PHD2 displays both the DEC and RA drift in the Drift Alignment tool. So instead of letting PHD2 slew
> the scope to the East for the altitude adjustment, slew it manually to the zenith. Turn on your mount's PEC to
> minimize RA motion. Run the drift session for a full worm cycle to cancel out the effects of the remaining PE.
> Adjust the altitude to minimize the RA drift. There is no point in doing the Eastern altitude adjustment first as this
> will always change for the minimum RA drift adjustment.
>
> I found it interesting to think about this at the limit of doing polar alignment at the equator, where the
> intersection of the celestial equator and the meridian is also the zenith. Using this method there you would not
> move the scope from the zenith for either adjustment
>
> Greg
>
>
>
|
Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
When using the PHD2 drift tool, it is only the DEC drift you want to null out (not RA drift),
as that tool says in its instructions. Yes, but as Greg said, this technique is different in that it uses RA drift at the zenith to adjust Altitude polar alignment instead of standard Dec drift in the East or West. There are advantages and disadvantages to this method, but the intent is to null out RA (and Dec) drift near the meridian, which is where usually the best quality images can be obtained. -Ray Gralak Author of APCC (Astro-Physics Command Center): Author of PEMPro: Author of Astro-Physics V2 ASCOM Driver: Author of PulseGuide: Author of Sigma: -----Original Message-----
From: Losmandy_users@... [mailto:Losmandy_users@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2017 1:16 PM
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
Hi Greg,
Thanks for the notes.
When using the PHD2 drift tool, it is only the DEC drift you want to null out (not RA drift), as that tool says in its
instructions.
[ repeat these 2 steps...
When you are pointing first near meridian and celestial equator, only adjust the AZ knobs.
When pointing next, as far East or West as possible, then again look only at DEC drift, and null out with the AZ
knob.
]
Repeat...[...] til you are satisfied.
You really don't need to bother about the PEC... you can ignore errors in that for the drift alignment (by PHD2
anyway).
Best,
Michael
On Nov 5, 2017 1:03 PM, "beneckerus@... [Losmandy_users]" <Losmandy_users@...>
wrote:
This subject is a current topic on the Astro-Physics group (#59424) and the subject of using PHD2 was
discussed. PHD2 displays both the DEC and RA drift in the Drift Alignment tool. So instead of letting PHD2 slew
the scope to the East for the altitude adjustment, slew it manually to the zenith. Turn on your mount's PEC to
minimize RA motion. Run the drift session for a full worm cycle to cancel out the effects of the remaining PE.
Adjust the altitude to minimize the RA drift. There is no point in doing the Eastern altitude adjustment first as this
will always change for the minimum RA drift adjustment.
I found it interesting to think about this at the limit of doing polar alignment at the equator, where the
intersection of the celestial equator and the meridian is also the zenith. Using this method there you would not
move the scope from the zenith for either adjustment
Greg
|
Re: Power supply needed on pier.
My mount is the G11-G.??
I beleive I can manage my power needs with a 10a supply.? Just to have a little extra.? ?
Les, thanks for the link for the Canon switching regulator.??
Thanks for your responses, I am now closer to achieving a better pier set-up
Thomas Glynn Springfield, MO??
|
Re: Leveling the Mount - I don't see the importance
Pointless?? I would disagree if you wanted the best tracking you could achieve.? Three factors play into the alignment:
1:? Has the polar-scope been calibrated to the mount?? If not the mount is correcting for misalignment between what it sees as NCP and where the mount is actually pointing.
2: Has the cone error been corrected between the NCP and the view in the telescope? Wouldn't it be better if the telescope and the polar scope point at exactly the same point.
3: Did the mount start out at the magical CWD position?? This is a perfectly leveled mount in RA and DEC.? Are these setting repeatable each time setup is conducted?? You can mark the setting circles once this has been established not a time consuming action each time.? Also note where the leveling bubble is after these three are completed and use this position next time you set up. If the mount is not level then CWD is not repeatable.
So when you set up, if the three factors are established, just leveling the mount puts you the best tracking position.? Why make the mount correct in Dec and RA when you can just let RA do most of the work?? ?
I roll my set up out and place in the same position each time.? I level the mount, plug in the power and my 3,0 usb cable and turn on My polemaster. I then run my QHY Polemaster program to establish polar alignment and I'm off to imaging after aligning with the SkyX. I can do a bright star alignment or three on each side or have The SkyX do a T point run.? Usually after one star the mount is dead on because it builds on what it did the last time.??
IMHO.? I take leveling serious. And it doesn't take that long, and is easier when it is daylight.??
Thomas Glynn Springfield, MO Losmandy G11-G?
|
Re: Leveling the Mount - I don't see the importance
Thanks to all for your comments on this issue.? I believe it is clear that having a precisely level mount does not preclude an accurate polar alignment or accurate GOTO performance.? ?Certainly, as Chip pointed out, it is more critical on Alt-Az mounts but this group is all about equatorial mounts. Thanks, Dave...
|
Re: G1 on G-11 refuses to go to bright stars
Magnus
IMHO "interrupted" can only come from one of four things:
A): A handset Ra/Dec button was activated during slew (either by touch or electronic failure, aka a momentary short cct);
or
B):Something is wrong with the way the system computes commands and is causing slew failures yet the system does not think there is an error!? Something like EPROM data.
or
C): Maybe you are correct pointing error model?
or
D): External issue such as RS232 causing or issuing a command during slew.
Failure A): Most likely its not this as the issue occurs during goto slews not park slews etc.
Failure B): This is possible.? Do you have your old EPROM? Can you R&R it back in?
Failure C): Its possible.? You may need to completely reset the Gemini data and start again, maybe don't do a point model yet just do cold start and re-input appropriate data then try some goto's.
Failure D): Its possible, ensure anything RS232 is removed and test.
This is about all I know on this.? I really do not think its an electronic issue requiring multimeter probing however I can supply info on where to test if you want to look at this....just in case.? Please say if you want to pursue this avenue.
A bad EPROM is possible and well we wouldn't know until replaced.?? I can send you a lvl 1.04 or 1.05 to try if you want.? I'm happy to...all free...just want to assist as best I can as this is nagging me so it must be really peeeving you off!
As for point model errors or corruption.? This is quite a possibility.? The only way to tell is to dump the current re-set Gemini and test without a model.
Well that's all I can think of.? Of course a sweet Gemini 2 might be starting to look favourable.? Maybe ask Losmandy for upgrade cost?
Tell us how you want to proceed
regards
Brendan?
|
Re: Leveling the Mount - I don't see the importance
For a GEM, once the computer is aligned leveling the mount or tripod makes no difference for GOTOs operation. But a mechanically plumb tripod or pier is more stable, settles faster and your elevation and azimuth mount alignment controls will make true movements not diagonal which makes polar alignment easier to nail more quickly.
For an Alt/Az mount leveling the mount is typically fairly important for single star GOTO performance unless you are going to shoot multiple stars to build a model to compensate for the mount's leveling error but even then a level and plumb mount will work better.
Chip
|
Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
Hi Greg,
Thanks for the notes.??
When using the PHD2 drift tool, it is only the DEC drift you want to null out (not RA drift), as that tool says in its instructions.
[ repeat these 2 steps...
When you are pointing first near meridian and celestial equator, only adjust the AZ knobs.
When pointing next, as far East or West as possible, then again look only at DEC drift, and null out with the AZ knob.??
]
Repeat...[...] til you are satisfied.
You really don't need to bother about the PEC... you can ignore errors in that for the drift alignment (by PHD2 anyway).
Best, Michael?
On Nov 5, 2017 1:03 PM, " beneckerus@... [Losmandy_users]" < Losmandy_users@...> wrote:
?
This subject is a current topic on the Astro-Physics group (#59424) and the subject of using PHD2 was discussed.? PHD2 displays both the DEC and RA drift in the Drift Alignment tool.? So instead of letting PHD2 slew the scope to the East for the altitude adjustment, slew it manually to the zenith.? Turn on your mount's PEC to minimize RA motion.? Run the drift session for a full worm cycle to cancel out the effects of the remaining PE.? Adjust the altitude to minimize the RA drift.? There is no? point in doing the Eastern altitude adjustment first as this will always change for the minimum RA drift adjustment.
I found it interesting to think about this at the limit of doing polar alignment at the equator, where the intersection of the celestial equator and the meridian is also the zenith.? Using this method there you would not move the scope from the zenith for either adjustment
Greg
|
Re: RA rate drift (revisited)
This subject is a current topic on the Astro-Physics group (#59424) and the subject of using PHD2 was discussed.? PHD2 displays both the DEC and RA drift in the Drift Alignment tool.? So instead of letting PHD2 slew the scope to the East for the altitude adjustment, slew it manually to the zenith.? Turn on your mount's PEC to minimize RA motion.? Run the drift session for a full worm cycle to cancel out the effects of the remaining PE.? Adjust the altitude to minimize the RA drift.? There is no? point in doing the Eastern altitude adjustment first as this will always change for the minimum RA drift adjustment.
I found it interesting to think about this at the limit of doing polar alignment at the equator, where the intersection of the celestial equator and the meridian is also the zenith.? Using this method there you would not move the scope from the zenith for either adjustment
Greg
|
Works if your level is the right size to straddle the socket head screw on each side of the DEC axis... mine doesn't. And I find it easier to adjust things if I don't have to hold the level in position. Your actual mileage may vary.
g
|
Re: Polaris alignment problem
Hi Rodney,
Good report and nice that you enjoyed the night.??
Here is some more info in case you want to build more a accurate sky model...at a "permanent" location.??
By doing a "Synch" only, you left your Gemini sky model parameters all "0" value. That is normally fine...the parameters should be near 0 value anyway.? You just did a Synch to the star closest to where you were looking.? Around there all will work well usually.??
To get an accurate model of the whole sky, you must further do an "Align" (it is different than "Synch") on more than one star to get the Gemini to calculate non-zero values.? I suggest you practice that on the handset to find the right button presses required.? The first star only dies a Synch anyway...the 2nd star does some calculations...
The instructions for best modeling are to "Align" to 3 stars on one side of the meridian (stay on either East or West for the first 3 stars), then align to 3 stars on the other side of meridian.??
?You can set that up easily to align to ANY sky object (not limited to tye hand controller list) using free sky charts, like Cartes du Ciel, or Stellarium (both work well with additional program Stellarium-Scope as an interface to ASCOM), with the very valuable Gemini.net applet via a PC connection ... and latest ASCOM.??
Have fun, Michael?
On Nov 5, 2017 9:24 AM, " f4chief73@... [Losmandy_users]" < Losmandy_users@...> wrote:
?
Something I want to note as well as far as building models, etc.?
During my recent learning curve of this new GOTO system, this being my very first, BTW, I went with our local Astronomy club here in Panama City, FL to a public viewing. I was very fortunate this night to have a guy there who also has a Losmandy / Gemini 2 system as well, and does astrophotography...
So after I did the set-up, level, etc...I borrowed another guys 12mm illuminated cross hair reticle for the Polar alignment. Everything looked good at this point. So, the guy with the Losmandy came over and talked me thru ?a one star alignment / Sync just to have a starting point.
So my point being, we did not do a bunch of high tech 4 or 5 star model building to start with. We did a one star, and started hitting targets with pretty good accuracy. But we had to incorporate 2 more star as we went to make it better, just using this menu:
Menu > GOTO > Bright Star > Center > Align > Sync......
This is all we did all night, and we had pretty good success...I also made my corrections for the GPS location as well, because I had been off on this as well, I found out. Plus not having a good Polar alignment...
Just wanted to throw that in there...
Rodney
|
Re: Power supply needed on pier.
I think amperage also depends on the load. When I slew a really heavy setup, I see the amps much higher - 2-3Amp ? Thanks ? Brian ? ? Brian Valente Brianvalentephotography.com ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Losmandy_users@... [mailto:Losmandy_users@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 5, 2017 8:21 AM
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: Re: [Losmandy_users] Power supply needed on pier.? ? Does the G-11 have the 492 digital drive or a Gemini? If it¡¯s the 492, I¡¯ve measured the power consumption at 250mA when tracking and 400mA slewing at 16x. Nowhere near 3A. And there¡¯s no reason to run a higher voltage on the 492, as the ¡°12V¡± input is regulated down to 5V.
That USB powered hub doesn¡¯t consume 3A. That rating must be based on powering a bunch of other USB devices from the hub. The hub itself will use an insignificant amount of power, so just add up the the current requirements of whatever is powered from the hub.
For the Canon, you could use a switching regulator to convert 12V to 8V, something like this: <>
It would need less than 2.5A at 12V input to produce 3A/8V output.
-Les
> On 5 Nov 2017, at 3:40, tglynn72@... [Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> I'm trying to figure out the power requirements needed for my pier. In the description of the mount it says
>
> "Dual 12~18 VDC input/output (3.0 A)" is that the requirement or the output from the dual connection? The other items on the pier are:
>
> SBig stt-8300 with filter wheel (3.5a)
>
> zwo120mm ____?
>
> Canon 6D (8v, 3a) ?????
>
> USB 3.0 powered hub (3 amps)
>
> QHY polemaster camera (0.35W, 70 mA (approx.)
>
>
>
> I'm looking for a power supply to have enough amperage to run through a KMTronic usb 8 channel relay board.
>
>
>
> The Canon is another problem. Any help would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> I'm trying to manage my cable system to a "WATCH OUT FOR THE WIRES" resolve. On my old G-! 11 I was running a 16v power supply. Is 16 volt better than 12 for my new G-11, or is that not the issue the amperage is the issue?
>
>
>
> My scopes on the mount are piggybacked
>
> ES127CF
>
> WO 81GTF
>
> Stellarvue SX50
>
>
>
> Thomas Glynn
>
> Happy astronomer
>
> Springfield MO
>
>
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
Re: Polaris alignment problem
Why I bought a Losmandy to replace my iOptron. The alignment process works well. But the push-to slip clutches are a mixed blessing. Makes it easy to balance the scope when changing hardware config, tracks well, but if you bump it or have a collision the scope can shift. My old mount was different... was a pain to unclutch and if you hit something ... it broke or bent. And it was a beast to do anything to, not like the GM-8.
And the issue I encountered was a fluke because for the first time in months I can see the northern sky, and having made mechanical changes I wanted to try the sharpcap polar alignment tool. Worked really well, almost painless compared to the drift method I use the rest of the time.
Trying to add Polaris was probably a mistake... But by re-leveling CWD the physical shift was corrected and a synch to a previously aligned star put me back to where I wanted to be. So when I went to M1 it was right in the center... pity the Moon was so bright.
So I still don't understand what was obstructing the motion of the scope... I looked at the obvious stuff and didn't see anything. Maybe lube got on the plastic face in the right spot...?
Over the winter I will be looking north a lot, once the trees come back its lost. So any circumpolar objects must be looked at when the trees are bare. When they leaf in it will be all south...
greg
|
Re: Polaris alignment problem
Something I want to note as well as far as building models, etc.?
During my recent learning curve of this new GOTO system, this being my very first, BTW, I went with our local Astronomy club here in Panama City, FL to a public viewing. I was very fortunate this night to have a guy there who also has a Losmandy / Gemini 2 system as well, and does astrophotography...
So after I did the set-up, level, etc...I borrowed another guys 12mm illuminated cross hair reticle for the Polar alignment. Everything looked good at this point. So, the guy with the Losmandy came over and talked me thru ?a one star alignment / Sync just to have a starting point.
So my point being, we did not do a bunch of high tech 4 or 5 star model building to start with. We did a one star, and started hitting targets with pretty good accuracy. But we had to incorporate 2 more star as we went to make it better, just using this menu:
Menu > GOTO > Bright Star > Center > Align > Sync......
This is all we did all night, and we had pretty good success...I also made my corrections for the GPS location as well, because I had been off on this as well, I found out. Plus not having a good Polar alignment...
Just wanted to throw that in there...
Rodney
|
Re: Power supply needed on pier.
Does the G-11 have the 492 digital drive or a Gemini? If it¡¯s the 492, I¡¯ve measured the power consumption at 250mA when tracking and 400mA slewing at 16x. Nowhere near 3A. And there¡¯s no reason to run a higher voltage on the 492, as the ¡°12V¡± input is regulated down to 5V. That USB powered hub doesn¡¯t consume 3A. That rating must be based on powering a bunch of other USB devices from the hub. The hub itself will use an insignificant amount of power, so just add up the the current requirements of whatever is powered from the hub. For the Canon, you could use a switching regulator to convert 12V to 8V, something like this: <> It would need less than 2.5A at 12V input to produce 3A/8V output. -Les On 5 Nov 2017, at 3:40, tglynn72@... [Losmandy_users] <Losmandy_users@...> wrote:
I'm trying to figure out the power requirements needed for my pier. In the description of the mount it says
"Dual 12~18 VDC input/output (3.0 A)" is that the requirement or the output from the dual connection? The other items on the pier are:
SBig stt-8300 with filter wheel (3.5a)
zwo120mm ____?
Canon 6D (8v, 3a) ?????
USB 3.0 powered hub (3 amps)
QHY polemaster camera (0.35W, 70 mA (approx.)
I'm looking for a power supply to have enough amperage to run through a KMTronic usb 8 channel relay board.
The Canon is another problem. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm trying to manage my cable system to a "WATCH OUT FOR THE WIRES" resolve. On my old G-! 11 I was running a 16v power supply. Is 16 volt better than 12 for my new G-11, or is that not the issue the amperage is the issue?
My scopes on the mount are piggybacked
ES127CF
WO 81GTF
Stellarvue SX50
Thomas Glynn
Happy astronomer
Springfield MO
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
|
Re: Power supply needed on pier.
Hi Thomas
The G11 will be happiest with a voltage somewhere between 15-18v. I use a standard 12v battery and use a 12v upconverter (lots available on amazon, etc.)?
As for power on the pier for the other items, you can look at something like an anderson powerpole distributor
you have to end up building or modifying a lot of your own cables, but I end up with just one cable from the telescope to the ground (where the battery is).?
Canon camera is more tricky, since it isn't really geared for external batteries, the canon accessories are for external AC power.?
B
|
with the head being aluminum I am never quite sure that my 'level'
position is not the same as last time.
***
My solution to this..
?
When you are standing North of your CWD
Mount, use your little torpedo level on the side of the counterweight shaft
housing, but ¡®push¡¯ the level away from you.. to the South until it
hits the other parts of the mount.. Where the ¡®pipe¡¯ meets the ¡®disk¡¯
it is attached to.. In Losmandy¡¯s video on this subject, you would push
the level used farther from the camera..
?
This makes it repeatable..
?
I can provide a picture if the words are
unclear..
?
Derek
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: Losmandy_users@... [mailto:Losmandy_users@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2017
5:23 AM
To: Losmandy_users@...
Subject: [Losmandy_users] Re: GM-8
feature
?
?
Doesn't
matter... all I want is a consistent reference point to be able to restore the
CWD to. And I have a number of good tools like that (I am also a cabinetmaker),
but with the head being aluminum I am never quite sure that my 'level' position
is not the same as last time. If you are moving your setup around you either
start from scratch or resynch the model every time... or use plate solving to
point the scope or starhop. Fine for some stuff and not so great for others,
IMHO. Accuracy I don't care about... consistency I do. If I bump the
counterweight bar or have a cable snag that shifts the scope, I want to correct
things as quickly and painlessly as possible -- so a reliable reference point
is important to me. Around here, clear skies increasingly are narrow windows.
So every moment is precious...
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Re: Power supply needed on pier.
Thomas,
Some of the power could be from one power supply, but you might find more noise in your images if your camera shares a "noisy" power supply -- where the noise comes from some other gadget taking supply current in pulses.? ?I think your cameras might work better with their own clean power supply...nothing shared.?
The other thing we now know about the G11 or other Losmandy mounts is that the motors have more torque and fewer "Lags" warnings if you use the higher end voltage like 16, 17, 18V, instead of like 12V.? ?(I recently made a 12V to 17V regulated converter box to boost the supply to the Gemini1,? and that also protects the unit from high voltage glitches too. )
Other than that.... you need to make up a spreadsheet to sum up the current demand at each voltage supply.? Tgen get power supplies at least 1 amp bigger than that..you cant trust today's suppliers to tell the truth (if you ever could).? My USB hubs have AC/DC supplies rated either 12V 1 amp for my USB3, or 5V 1 amp for my USB2. Yours could be different...be careful.
Have fun,
Michael?
On Nov 5, 2017 3:40 AM, " tglynn72@... [Losmandy_users]" < Losmandy_users@...> wrote:
?
I'm trying to figure out the power requirements needed for my pier.? In the description of the mount it says? "Dual 12~18 VDC input/output (3.0 A)"? is that the requirement or the output from the dual connection?? The other items on the pier are: SBig stt-8300 with filter wheel? (3.5a) zwo120mm ____? Canon 6D? (8v, 3a)? ?????? USB 3.0 powered hub? (3 amps) QHY polemaster camera? (0.35W, 70 mA (approx.)
I'm looking for a power supply to have enough amperage to run through a KMTronic usb 8 channel relay board.??
The Canon is another problem.? ?Any help would be appreciated.??
?I'm trying to manage my cable system to a "WATCH OUT FOR THE WIRES" resolve.? On my old G-11 I was running a 16v power supply.? Is 16 volt better than 12 for my new G-11, or is that not the issue the amperage is the issue???
My scopes on the mount are piggybacked? ES127CF WO 81GTF Stellarvue SX50
Thomas Glynn Happy astronomer?? Springfield MO
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Doesn't matter... all I want is a consistent reference point to be able to restore the CWD to. And I have a number of good tools like that (I am also a cabinetmaker), but with the head being aluminum I am never quite sure that my 'level' position is not the same as last time. If you are moving your setup around you either start from scratch or resynch the model every time... or use plate solving to point the scope or starhop. Fine for some stuff and not so great for others, IMHO. Accuracy I don't care about... consistency I do. If I bump the counterweight bar or have a cable snag that shifts the scope, I want to correct things as quickly and painlessly as possible -- so a reliable reference point is important to me. Around here, clear skies increasingly are narrow windows. So every moment is precious...
greg
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Michael Herman
David Cochrun