Thanks Paul

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I agree these fires are terrible. ?Thoughts and prayers for all. Not that I’m religious….but I will be for this! ? ?It ?as truly awful Aussies know fires like this but that’s northern hemispheres winter time!

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Hope all local members are safe

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good luck to all affected?

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Brendan

Just to help a little (in the spirit of the season) .. from McMaster Carr

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3/8" x 16 TPI x 1.25 thread length stainless steel threaded, adjustable indexed, "6320K26" note this is nylon handle (note not metal handle like i said).?? Either black or yellow (you choose) but cheap...price $14.89 ea USD plus shipping??? You need qty 2

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Nylon Plastic Adjustable Handle, 3/8"-16 Thread Size x 1-1/4" Long 303 Stainless Steel Stud, 1-3/4" Projection

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Oh I measured the thread length as I.2inches so maybe put a stainless steel washer under the handle to spread the load and ensure it doesn't clash with the other side.?? So do get the 1.25" thread length

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Cheers

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Brendan

Ken, I know what you mean. ?Remember the alt doesn’t need to be super tight, it tends to cause a twist motion in alignment when doing up. ? But adjustable handles sometimes called “”?? You can get these with a so you can release the handle and re-index it (more its position) without effecting the threaded bolt.

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Thus you can easily undo it /do it up and put the handle in a position that doesn't interfere.?? Obviously when putting them on you will need this index feature to screw it in as the handle may be to long to swing under and strike the Alt/Az plate.

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The Size you need (of thread) is: 3/8" x 16 tpi x 1.25inches (I think).?? I'm pretty sure the 3/8x16tpi is correct but a little hazy on length?.?? My Guess is you can get a 1" threaded handle for each side (Adjustable handle) and if too long cut some off it's length.?? Buy a stainless steel adjustable handle (for the threaded insert) the handle can be plastic but better to get an all metal handle.??

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Best place to buy...I don't know I'm in Australia but i guess or should be available in USA from many places, easily as its imperial thread (and why won't the US go to metric?....."a time immortal argument")!?? I saw this gent (I don't know him just he had a site for a few years...see pic attached) use a kipp handle years back (see pic) the only draw back is its a possible snag for cables!?? YMMV.

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Good luck...post back a pic when you get some...they will help a lot.

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Brendan

Thanks for the update Paul.

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The fires are having a terrible impact.? I pray that everyone at Losmandy and their extended families stay safe.

On a positive note,? ?I just listened to the Eaton fire update and the Mt. Wilson observatory complex was spared damage due to the great efforts of the combined fire response teams and the observatory staff. They are not out of danger yet, but the run the fire made in their direction yesterday was blocked.?

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Hi,

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My aging hands are having problems loosening the lock screws (mainly azimuth) during polar alignments so I was interested to know if anyone has used knobs that are easier to grip. My ones are the round topped ones.

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Thanks,

Ken

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Hi folks,

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Tanya at Losmandy asked me to post an update. Losmandy shop has no phone or internet service at the moment due to LA fires.

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If you need to reach the shop, please email Tanya directly, at tanyak @ losmandy.com, but be aware that it may take her some time to respond.

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Regards,

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? ?- Paul

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Glad to hear it is working for you! ?It is a great mount! ?

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JMD

I have to say, thus far, I haven't had to use east-heavy guiding, though I am set up in case this becomes necessary. This was more than an axis upgrade - I changed my entire imaging setup from an AT115EDT refractor reduced to F/4.5 to C11 Edge with F/7 reducer. I'm still rewiring the observatory. Clouds have slowed everything up.?

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In the short time I've been able to use it though, the RA axis upgrade has proven to be a dream. After PEC training and PHD2 calibration, the mount guides as beautifully as I had hoped for. Over two sessions of about 3 hours each, my RMS values in relatively poor seeing were 0.34" for RA and 0.33" for Dec and 0.50" for RA and 0.42" for Dec. The second set of figures were for a DSO between 30 and 45 degrees in apparent elevation. For the first values set, it had risen above 50 degrees. I should not have been imaging on either night, but I cannot be too picky with my seeing options this winter. I've become a cheap date. My stars at 2000mm focal length (2008 according to platesolve) for subs from both imaging runs are round to the corners of my admittedly small sensor (IMX 533). These aren't as low as the numbers I've seen from the insanely expensive mount crew, but I hadn't seen anything that low in my previous experiences with any mount.?

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I guess the best review of my short experience thus far is that I typically actively check each sub and PHD2 while imaging. While imaging last night, I realized at a certain point that I had stopped obsessively checking my PHD2 guiding graph. I was doing research for cloud monitors, looking for reviews for good NINA plugins, streaming a show on Netflix as subs came in every couple of minutes.??

I have an iPolar that I'm not using. I originally bought it for my AVX and then upgraded to the G11 so I have mounts for either. It is used but in excellent condition.

Offering here first before I put it on CN. Asking $180 (Zelle or Venmo to my wife's Venmo) shipped and insured (if insurance is applicable) to CONUS addresses only.



Regards,
Joel

Rings are also made of carbon fiber.?

Kevin

Will address cable jungle in the future ?.

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Agree that using risers was over thinking but would prefer to try to keep them as is and or move something to lower rail to create more space empty space on upper rail, or purchase carbon fiber risers to lessen the weight. Using 3 carbon fiber dovetail clamps on upper rail so upper rail space is maybe too tight. Thus the consideration of risers.

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The total weight is determined and is within the capacity of the mount. Also balanced the system.

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Before modernization, had outstanding guiding outcomes with a heavy clamshell around the scope. When I add the 8” RC to the GM-8, I am approaching the limits of the GM-8 and the balance must be great to avoid oblong stars. Pretty sure that I will purchase a G11 by end of summer.?

There is logic to my arrangement. Power box/router, mini pc and guider are on carbon fiber dovetail clamps so I can easily use the power box/router and mini pc on a 8 inch RC scope using the same mount.?

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I truly appreciate your comments. Keep sending them. ?Collaboration always lead to a better outcome.?

Kevin

As the title says I am selling my G11G.? I have moved to a harmonic drive mount.? The G11G is posted on Cloudy Nights below.

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If you have an Astrobin account detailed information can be seen in the Marketplace Listings below.

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I am asking $1,700 OBO

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Jim W
Phoenix, AZ. USA

ZWO AM5N, Losmandy G11G w/ L6, NINA 3.2 / ASTAP, ASI2600MC Pro, Sky-Watcher Scopes, Canon L Lenses.

I would strongly suggest you put a plastic bag over the entire electronic and ota gear as I've had water get through the stitched telegizmos seams during heavy rains. The telegizmos keeps most rain out but my gear had small dribble marks. The plastic bag should be open at the bottom to allow condensed vapor to evaporate. Alternately, you can seal the seams but the silver stuff inside doesn't allow anything to stick. My two cents

Chuck

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Okay.? I managed to get a closer look at your equipment and the cable jungle.? From what I see there is no reason to use the risers.? Go back to directly mounting the tube rings on a longer dovetail, you may need the additional length for best balance, relocate the router to the tripod tray.? For the USB/power box and mini-PC you can 3D print mounts that fasten to the dovetail on opposite sides of the optical tube. Remove the guide scope mount and fasten the adjustable rings directly to the upper dovetail.??

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With this configuration and the shortest cables tidied up that will reach all the parts of the rig you should only have a power cord going to the USB/power box, a power cord going to the mini-PC and an Ethernet cable going to the router on the tray.?

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Most electronics will be more reliable with their own power supply.? This is why I reccome d two power cords to the mount and a seperate power cord to the Gemini-2. You will also need an Ethernet cable from the router on the try to the Gemini 2.? And the Gemini 2 will have its own small power cord.?

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On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 05:35 PM, Kevin Hannon wrote:

So it’s three years later(3 winters 2021-2023). The Telegizmo 365 covers worked as advertised. Setup is currently indoors being modernized with power box/usb hub, micro router, and mini pc. Let’s see if the added gear can hold up under winter/telegizmo 365 cover. The added gear is on two carbon fiber dovetail clamps, so can be easily removed if desired.

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Red rails are made of aluminum. Aluminum rails, carbon fiber dovetail clamps and carbon fiber rings are from Rouz Astro. ?I used Stellarvue metal risers. Had to replace the Stellarvue riser long bolts with 90mm bolts from Amazon to get the Stellarvue risers and Rouz Astro rings/lower aluminum rail to securely join.?

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Hi Kevin,

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That's a wild looking setup.? In my experience you'll get better more consistent tracking results by reducing your mount's payload in the saddle as much as possible.? Do whatever it takes to eliminate the need to use ring risers, they give leverage and additional polar moment to everything mounted on the scope and increases your counterweight requirements.?

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The stuff that remains should be located and made as compact as you can make it and as close to the saddle clamp as possible.? Locate the largest heaviest gear as close as possible to the saddle clamp. On other words move the guide scope closer to the imaging tube and move the other gear down or possibly side mount it to the rings or behind the guide scope.??

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You will have much better Wi-Fi range if the router is stationary.? Move the router to the tray (tray is better) or if necessary clamp it to a tripod leg and position the antenne oriented vertically.? This also reduces the number of cables that run to the moving part of the rig if you are using Ethernet to control the Gemini 2.??

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So it’s three years later(3 winters 2021-2023). The Telegizmo 365 covers worked as advertised. Setup is currently indoors being modernized with power box/usb hub, micro router, and mini pc. Let’s see if the added gear can hold up under winter/telegizmo 365 cover. The added gear is on two carbon fiber dovetail clamps, so can be easily removed if desired.

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Red rails are made of aluminum. Aluminum rails, carbon fiber dovetail clamps and carbon fiber rings are from Rouz Astro. ?I used Stellarvue metal risers. Had to replace the Stellarvue riser long bolts with 90mm bolts from Amazon to get the Stellarvue risers and Rouz Astro rings/lower aluminum rail to securely join.?

Cheers thanks for feedback

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Brendan

Brendan,

I wanted to let you know that link from Digikey was the exact item I needed.? It arrived quickly, and I got the old jack removed easily, and the new one soldered in place, and it is all back together and working great.

Thanks!

Tom

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PEC shouldn't work after a full reset, and programming the same PEC curve shouldn't work either. Gemini keeps track of the current worm position in memory. When you reset all settings or do a reflash that does the same, Gemini will no longer remember the correct worm position. As the result PEC will be played back out of sync (out of phase) with the actual worm error, which is likely to make tracking error even worse than without PEC. If you want PEC, you'll need to redo PEMPro calibration/capture/program steps one more time.

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Regards,

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? -Paul

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On Sat, Dec 21, 2024 at 09:53 PM, <dkfcpalfd@...> wrote: