开云体育

This may be completely off beat but I too kept losing my GPS about 50% of boot ups but only when using my Kenwood D74 connected by USB so I could use it in KISS mode with Xastir. I also noticed that without swapping leads sometimes the Radio appeared as ACM0 ACM1 or ACM2, then I twigged the Kenwood was taking over the GPS port. Not only that I had to keep changing the KISS port in Xastir. I have cured the later by creating a symlink that identifies the Kenwood and gives it a port name unique to it.
I wondering if I should do that for the GPS in case something else ‘steals’ its port?
Anyway the reason for the post is are some of the GPS issues due to a similar cause and that’s why on reboot they start working again?

It worked like a charm all day yesterday, got up this morning and it won't connect. Might be a hardware issue with the radio. I'm reinstalling Build-a-Pi now.

My setup:
1. BAP v2.0
2. Pi4
3. TS-590S on USB 2.0
4. U-Blox GPS on USB 2.0

I plugged in a CM108 sound directly into the back of the Pi's USB 3.0 and boom, the GPS is gone. Plug the sound card in with a 3' USB 2.0 extension cable, and so far, GPS is still there. Plug the sound card back in directly on the back of the Pi, and GPS is gone, but, disable WiFi and it stays. Next test - remove sound card, plug in a M.2 NVMe external drive (Samsung EVO 960 in a QNine Case) and GPS is gone. Put a snap-on ferrite bead onto the 1' long USB 3.0 cable at the NVMe drive end, and GPS is still there.

Not sure at this point if USB 3.0 is causing it, and how WiFi fits in, but I suspect 2.4 GHz jamming. At any rate, the ferrite bead keep the GPS connected. I will leave it connected to see if the GPS stays or falls off, but by all means, if anyone with the problem has some ferrite beads to snap onto the USB 3 cable, please do, and share your results.

Hi Dafcho
Did not do the file dump.
Followed an different instruction.
Have the June firmware update so I will do this when I'm home
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

Hi, Eugine

Have you updated the eeprom in order to boot from usb?

Here is a detailed howto:

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73 Daff, LZ1DAF

Everything is running smoothly now, except my SSD boot that I am still unable to get starting on the USB 3. It previously worked with the hack and with the SD still in place (even before the new updated and beta firmware). I can see the SDD when booted up in Raspbian (connected to the USB3 port) but cannot boot up in it. Will try and see whats wrong tonight.
Im using the above Wifi dongle and purchased a original D-Link DUB-H7 hub with external 5V power (Not the 12V as last time)
The USB2 hub is running very nicely,?
Its mind boggling. Will maybe use the Y cable on the external USB 2 HUB (the power side) but otherwise its up and running and I'm broke and fed-up with these Raspberry pi 4 problems.
Its not easy,?
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BBT
73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

Everything is running smoothly now, except my SSD boot that I am still unable to get starting.
Im using the above Wifi dongle and purchased a original D-Link DUB-H7 hub with external 5V power (Not the 12V as last time)
The USB2 hub is running very nicely, I can see the SDD when booted up in Raspbian (connected to the USB3 port) but cannot boot up in it. Will try and see whats wrong tonight.
Its mind boggling. Will maybe use the Y cable on the external USB 2 HUB (the power side) but otherwise its up and running and I'm broke and fed-up with these Raspberry pi 4 problems.
Its not easy, Maybe because I'm BBT.
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

My RTS and DTR radio buttons is not on because its not connected with my homebrew cable, but it works
Pardon for the late reply, was out of office
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

Still can't boot up with SSD, something maybe wrong
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

You can remove build a pi by removing the directory ~/pi-build This will not remove anything that you installed during the build. For that, you will need to flash a new card.
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Is there a command I can run to completely remove build-a-pi, so that I can reinstall everything fresh.?

Okay, I got it going. I am putting the settings for flrig below incase anyone else needs them. RTS + 12v and DTR + 12v needed to be on at the same time. @ZR4EM thank you for helping me figure this mess out!

I'm very new to this could you explain, "data flow, with one start bit, 8 data bits and two stop bits, no parity or flow control" what this looks like in the settings? I set to 4800 baud, and 2 stop bit same error.

@ZR4EM I am running a Raspberry Pi 4/4gig with buster and the build-a-pi script. I have looked at the baund rate in the 890 manual it says 4800, but I cannot find the other settings you mentioned. Thank you for helping me troubleshoot this.?

?

Jason solution worked well but I missed the colours used in Direwolf so I installed from the dev branch;

cd ~

git clone
cd direwolf

git checkout dev

mkdir build && cd build

cmake ..

?

make -j4

sudo make install

you can continue to use your existing .conf file

Hi!
I also have a problem with GPS when using a USB 3 device. My GPS module is a Quectel L83, connected to GPIO serial port and an extra pin for 1PPS signal. When my RPi4 boots via the SD card there is no problem. To get rid of the slow SD cards I use an SSD inserted in a Orico USB3 enclosure. The boot time is great, the performance too. I have to fears of SD card failure. But there is a price - USB 3 uses spread spectrum for higher transfer rates and this is jamming GPS signal. Even my phone's GPS dies when it comes close to the RPi with the USB 3 disk. There are also issues with 2.4 GHz wireless - the RPi disconnects from the home AP. (There are also problems in the 2.4 GHz band when using a cheap HDMI cable for monitor connection - again the wifi link disconnects)
73!

LZ1DAF

See??regarding?Peripherals especially the power of the USB port, so it seems that the power drawn from the port more than allocated may make the whole device unstable:

Warning:

Adding peripherals may increase the loading on the power supply to your board and this, in turn, may affect the voltage presented to the Raspberry Pi. If the Raspberry Pi's supply voltage falls below a certain value (anecdotally stated as around 4.75?V), or it begins to fluctuate, your setup may become unstable.

and also?

Model B Hardware Revision 2.0 and Revision 1.0 with ECN0001 change?This had the polyfuses removed, removing the 100?mA current limitation for each USB port (but leaving the main fuse F3 intact). Users should still ensure their power supply can power the Raspberry Pi and the USB peripherals. Revision 2.0 was released in August 2012.??Warning: Because the polyfuses have been removed, back feeding of the PI, by applying power via its normal USB output, can damage D 17 if triggered by an over-voltage, and so lead to consequential over-heating. This can be discovered by melts, scorching, smoke or worse

So it seems that the power supplied to the USB ports is crytical, thus it may be advised to make use of powered USB Hubs?

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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

I see on the user manual of your rig its very similar to my FT-840.
On p31 in the manual it explains the data flow, with one start bit, 8 data bits and two stop bits, no parity or flow control.
I also see on p34 in the paragraph sending a command it mentions that the data rate is set to 4800 baud so your Virtual serial port should also be on 4800 baud, otherwise the data comms may be to fast. Check again the stop bit is set to 2 and not 1.
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM

It may be advantageous also to use a lower port speed than the maximum rate of your devices. My experience is that 9600 is the better rate as my FT-897 was previously set on 38k and it worked fine on windows, but not that well on the Raspberry Pi. Using 9600 (but I had to set the CAT speed of the rig to 9600) and my apps worked the best, and is fast enough.

73

Are U using a PC, MAC or Linux machine.
I also have some issues with FLrig and Fldigi but its more related to the sound, but what I can tell you is that all the baud rates and Com port settings have to be the same, e.g. the buad rate set on your rig (sometimes set on 9600 or 34500 or even 115k). It have to be the same as your hardware port (virtual port as the FTDi is creating a virtual com port) and the port speed of the FLrig. If the port speeds is not set the same, its interpreted as a bunch of garbage. Also have a look at the stop bits. I know that the Yaesu love to use two stop bits in stead of one. It must correspond everywhere. This is especially a problem with regard to virtual ports (e.g. FTDI, Prolific etc) created by USB to serial devices as this serial communications can be much faster than the original serial port speed of 9600 or 4800 baud. Had a similar problem with all my software and hardware, also jumping from the ESP32 chip to the arduino chip etc.
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73 de Eugene / ZR4EM