I have saved the facebook post with pictures about the new LED. (See attached word doc.) I need to replace mine also. I searched Aliexpress but didn't find a source there at the time. Haven't searched lately. Someone had them posted on ebay at over a hundred
dollars each. LOL! about ten times the cost!
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I think there have been some newer sources for a display replacement for the keyboards that were posted recently on the old Yahoo group or perhaps the Facebook page but I may not have updated K1000.net site.? Anyone point me to newer sources or methods
I will update the K1000 page.
Dennis?
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 12/17/2020 8:52:44 PM
Subject: [K1000-K1200] K1000 led light
hope someone reposts the info on upgrading fixing a fading led light on a K 1000 keyboard. Sooner or later I have to get this done!
|
I have only a cursory experience with electronics hardware, so feel free to tell me I'm clueless. Would it be possible to hardwire the connection using thicker wire to remove any wiggle room from the connections? I seem to remember that would lower resistance, but would that matter?
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of LarryS Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2020 7:00 AM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! P1 I think this is what I¡¯m going to do. Just solder the leads straight on. My units are from 25-30 years ago. And NOW I¡¯m getting ready to repair a couple. Of course, the temptation is to ¡°restore¡± it because ¡°someday I might want that to plug-in¡±. After all ¡°if it was good enough for the factory¡±, but, like you said, it was for the exigencies of assembly, not end-user advantages. But I can¡¯t think of an overriding reason to have a disconnect there. And I can think of several reasons to have hard-soldered leads ¨C a proven technique of reliability for many years. L. I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted the connector. When that happens, I completely remove P1 and solder the transformer leads directly to the board. This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a bit more work than the fix above. The connector was for ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing lost by removing it. Hope this helps someone! Regards, Brian
|
Larry,
The wire wrap trick is something picked up in a previous
incarnation as a TV repair guy in the mid to late 70s.? It's
proven to be quite reliable, but for people repairing their own
units, there's really no down side to removing the connector
completely.? It removes the source of heat (the contact area
between the cylindrical pins and the flat blades in the connector)
that fatigues the solder joints, so I suspect that, no matter what
your age, you'll never have to deal with it again in your
lifetime.?
Before soldering the transformer wires to the board, however, I'd
recommend recapping, at least the three large filter caps in the
power supply.? They may be functioning to some degree now, but if
they're original, they're already 30 years old, and electrolytic
caps have a finite lifespan. ? Working on the board is definitely
easier when it can still be completely removed to service it on
the bench.
Regards,
Brian
On 12/19/20 8:00 AM, LarryS wrote:
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I
think this is what I¡¯m going to do.? Just solder the leads
straight on.
My
units are from 25-30 years ago.? And NOW I¡¯m getting ready
to repair a couple.?
Of
course, the temptation is to ¡°restore¡± it because ¡°someday I
might want that to plug-in¡±.? After all ¡°if it was good
enough for the factory¡±, but, like you said, it was for the
exigencies of assembly, not end-user advantages.
But
I can¡¯t think of an overriding reason to have a disconnect
there.? And I can think of several reasons to have
hard-soldered leads ¨C a proven technique of reliability for
many years.
?
L.
?
?
I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted
the connector.? When that happens, I completely remove P1
and solder the transformer leads directly to the board.?
This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a
bit more work than the fix above.? The connector was for
ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing
lost by removing it.
Hope this helps someone!
Regards,
Brian
|
I think this is what I¡¯m going to do.? Just solder the leads straight on. My units are from 25-30 years ago.? And NOW I¡¯m getting ready to repair a couple.? Of course, the temptation is to ¡°restore¡± it because ¡°someday I might want that to plug-in¡±.? After all ¡°if it was good enough for the factory¡±, but, like you said, it was for the exigencies of assembly, not end-user advantages. But I can¡¯t think of an overriding reason to have a disconnect there.? And I can think of several reasons to have hard-soldered leads ¨C a proven technique of reliability for many years. ? L. ? ?
I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted the connector.? When that happens, I completely remove P1 and solder the transformer leads directly to the board.? This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a bit more work than the fix above.? The connector was for ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing lost by removing it.
Hope this helps someone!
Regards,
Brian
|
Thanks for the tips!
I do remember fixing solder connections on the power supply, and possibly replacing some diodes, but that was a while ago... ;-)? The wire-wrap idea sounds good!
I have tools, materials, and tech experience so it shouldn't be too hard to get back into it. Might have to wait until after the holidays though.
Wanted to use the vibraphone sound recently, and had to settle for one in my K2000, which dumped all the user banks... Always something!
--
peace,
Frank Dickinson
90 East Productions
|
Yep, that sounds like it might be the relay trying to connect and failing. But get responses from those on this list who can read schematics, as my information is anecdotal.
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Joey Mastrili via groups.io Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 8:10 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Please pardon me for the ignorant question, but does a faulty relay prevent the K1000 from booting? My K1000 doesn't seem to complete the boot process. It powers up, then the screen goes blank and makes no sound, except for a cyclic clicking sound. I never thought of the relay as a possible culprit. Thanks. Joey <> On Saturday, December 19, 2020, 7:38 AM, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote: Thanks. Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> [mailto: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> ] On Behalf Of Dennis Spanogle (Mr. Kurlewin K1000.net) Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 5:26 PM To: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Will do update K1000.net. Not soon, but will do. Dennis ------ Original Message ------ From: "Nicole Massey" <nyyki@... <mailto:nyyki@...> > To: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> Sent: 12/18/2020 3:53:28 PM Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! >Let's get this on the website. And I'll start trying to find someone to do this on my units. > >Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter > > >-----Original Message----- >From: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> [mailto: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> ] On Behalf Of Brian M. via groups.io >Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 4:17 PM >To: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> >Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! > >Nicole, > >A suggestion on the P1 connector repair: In manufacturing, the holes for P1 in the power supply board were drilled almost twice the diameter they should be (maybe originally to accommodate a different connector, or the transformer wires?), so a lot of solder was used to bridge the gap to the pins. Multiple heating/cooling cycles, combined with differential expansion of materials, cause fatigue in the joint. As the joint fatigues, there's less solder making contact, causing it to heat even more. The cycle eventually breaks the connection completely. > >Instead of simply resoldering the pins (which just restarts the clock on the same problem), first remove all the solder from the pins, then wrap several turns of 24AWG bus wire around each pin on the foil side of the board, and resolder. This provides a much better connection than the original -- electrically, mechanically and thermally -- and since the late 90s, I've never had a call-back for this. Photos of a unit in process available, if someone wants them for clarification. > >I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted the connector. When that happens, I completely remove P1 and solder the transformer leads directly to the board. This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a bit more work than the fix above. The connector was for ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing lost by removing it. > >Hope this helps someone! > > >Regards, > >Brian > > > >On 12/18/20 3:49 PM, Nicole Massey wrote: > > > The two biggest issues with the modules are the P1 connector on the power supply and the relay. > Turn the unit on. If nothing happens it's probably the P1. If you get black blocks it's likely to be the relay. > First off, both of these repairs are covered on k1000.net. But if it's the relay give it a firm but not hard tap to knock the relay loose from the gunk clogging it up. Don't tap it hard enough to break anything. There are replacement instructions on the website. > As to the P1 connector, this is the most common design flaw in the instruments. The power supply isn't fitted with enough heat conduction, so it causes the solder on the P1 connector to go fluid. David Brown used to tell folks to resolder the P1 connector every time they opened the case on one of these. I've got two GX modules in need of this repair. (I also have a GX that needs an OS upgrade, which the site will tell someone how to do and also provide all the binaries to burn into chips so you can upgrade the machines) > Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> <mailto: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> > [mailto: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> ] On Behalf Of Frank D via groups.io > Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 10:52 AM > To: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> <mailto: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> > > Subject: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! > Thank you Max, for getting this started. > Maybe, over the winter, I can get my 1000PX working again. Having a group gives me a bit of inspiration! > peace, > Frank Dickinson > 90 East Productions > > > > > > > > >
|
Please pardon me for the ignorant question, but?does a faulty relay prevent the K1000 from?booting? ? My K1000?doesn't seem to complete the boot process. It powers up, then the?screen goes blank and makes no sound, except for a cyclic clicking sound. ?I never thought of?the relay as a possible culprit.
Thanks.
On Saturday, December 19, 2020, 7:38 AM, Nicole Massey <nyyki@...> wrote: Thanks. Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Dennis Spanogle (Mr. Kurlewin K1000.net) Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 5:26 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Will do update K1000.net.? Not soon, but will do. Dennis ------ Original Message ------ From: "Nicole Massey" < nyyki@...> To: [email protected]Sent: 12/18/2020 3:53:28 PM Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! >Let's get this on the website. And I'll start trying to find someone to do this on my units. > >Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter > > >-----Original Message----- >From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Brian M. via groups.io >Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 4:17 PM >To: [email protected]>Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! > >Nicole, > >A suggestion on the P1 connector repair:? In manufacturing, the holes for P1 in the power supply board were drilled almost twice the diameter they should be (maybe originally to accommodate a different connector, or the transformer wires?), so a lot of solder was used to bridge the gap to the pins.? Multiple heating/cooling cycles, combined with differential expansion of materials, cause fatigue in the joint.? As the joint fatigues, there's less solder making contact, causing it to heat even more. The cycle eventually breaks the connection completely. > >Instead of simply resoldering the pins (which just restarts the clock on the same problem), first remove all the solder from the pins, then wrap several turns of 24AWG bus wire around each pin on the foil side of the board, and resolder.? This provides a much better connection than the original -- electrically, mechanically and thermally -- and since the late 90s, I've never had a call-back for this.? Photos of a unit in process available, if someone wants them for clarification. > >I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted the connector.? When that happens, I completely remove P1 and solder the transformer leads directly to the board.? This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a bit more work than the fix above.? The connector was for ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing lost by removing it. > >Hope this helps someone! > > >Regards, > >Brian > > > >On 12/18/20 3:49 PM, Nicole Massey wrote: > > >??? The two biggest issues with the modules are the P1 connector on the power supply and the relay. >??? Turn the unit on. If nothing happens it's probably the P1. If you get black blocks it's likely to be the relay. >??? First off, both of these repairs are covered on k1000.net. But if it's the relay give it a firm but not hard tap to knock the relay loose from the gunk clogging it up. Don't tap it hard enough to break anything. There are replacement instructions on the website. >??? As to the P1 connector, this is the most common design flaw in the instruments. The power supply isn't fitted with enough heat conduction, so it causes the solder on the P1 connector to go fluid. David Brown used to tell folks to resolder the P1 connector every time they opened the case on one of these. I've got two GX modules in need of this repair. (I also have a GX that needs an OS upgrade, which the site will tell someone how to do and also provide all the binaries to burn into chips so you can upgrade the machines) >??? Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter >??? -----Original Message----- >??? From: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]>? [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Frank D via groups.io >??? Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 10:52 AM >??? To: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> >??? Subject: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! >??? Thank you Max, for getting this started. >??? Maybe, over the winter, I can get my 1000PX working again. Having a group gives me a bit of inspiration! >??? peace, >??? Frank Dickinson >??? 90 East Productions > > > > > > > > >
|
Thanks.
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Dennis Spanogle (Mr. Kurlewin K1000.net) Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 5:26 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Will do update K1000.net. Not soon, but will do. Dennis ------ Original Message ------ From: "Nicole Massey" <nyyki@...> To: [email protected]Sent: 12/18/2020 3:53:28 PM Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Let's get this on the website. And I'll start trying to find someone to do this on my units.
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brian M. via groups.io
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 4:17 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you!
Nicole,
A suggestion on the P1 connector repair: In manufacturing, the holes for P1 in the power supply board were drilled almost twice the diameter they should be (maybe originally to accommodate a different connector, or the transformer wires?), so a lot of solder was used to bridge the gap to the pins. Multiple heating/cooling cycles, combined with differential expansion of materials, cause fatigue in the joint. As the joint fatigues, there's less solder making contact, causing it to heat even more. The cycle eventually breaks the connection completely.
Instead of simply resoldering the pins (which just restarts the clock on the same problem), first remove all the solder from the pins, then wrap several turns of 24AWG bus wire around each pin on the foil side of the board, and resolder. This provides a much better connection than the original -- electrically, mechanically and thermally -- and since the late 90s, I've never had a call-back for this. Photos of a unit in process available, if someone wants them for clarification.
I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted the connector. When that happens, I completely remove P1 and solder the transformer leads directly to the board. This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a bit more work than the fix above. The connector was for ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing lost by removing it.
Hope this helps someone!
Regards,
Brian
On 12/18/20 3:49 PM, Nicole Massey wrote:
The two biggest issues with the modules are the P1 connector on the power supply and the relay.
Turn the unit on. If nothing happens it's probably the P1. If you get black blocks it's likely to be the relay.
First off, both of these repairs are covered on k1000.net. But if it's the relay give it a firm but not hard tap to knock the relay loose from the gunk clogging it up. Don't tap it hard enough to break anything. There are replacement instructions on the website.
As to the P1 connector, this is the most common design flaw in the instruments. The power supply isn't fitted with enough heat conduction, so it causes the solder on the P1 connector to go fluid. David Brown used to tell folks to resolder the P1 connector every time they opened the case on one of these. I've got two GX modules in need of this repair. (I also have a GX that needs an OS upgrade, which the site will tell someone how to do and also provide all the binaries to burn into chips so you can upgrade the machines)
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Frank D via groups.io
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 10:52 AM
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
Subject: [K1000-K1200] Thank you!
Thank you Max, for getting this started.
Maybe, over the winter, I can get my 1000PX working again. Having a group gives me a bit of inspiration!
peace,
Frank Dickinson
90 East Productions
|
Will do update K1000.net. Not soon, but will do.
Dennis
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------ Original Message ------ From: "Nicole Massey" <nyyki@...> To: [email protected]Sent: 12/18/2020 3:53:28 PM Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Let's get this on the website. And I'll start trying to find someone to do this on my units.
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Brian M. via groups.io
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 4:17 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you!
Nicole,
A suggestion on the P1 connector repair: In manufacturing, the holes for P1 in the power supply board were drilled almost twice the diameter they should be (maybe originally to accommodate a different connector, or the transformer wires?), so a lot of solder was used to bridge the gap to the pins. Multiple heating/cooling cycles, combined with differential expansion of materials, cause fatigue in the joint. As the joint fatigues, there's less solder making contact, causing it to heat even more. The cycle eventually breaks the connection completely.
Instead of simply resoldering the pins (which just restarts the clock on the same problem), first remove all the solder from the pins, then wrap several turns of 24AWG bus wire around each pin on the foil side of the board, and resolder. This provides a much better connection than the original -- electrically, mechanically and thermally -- and since the late 90s, I've never had a call-back for this. Photos of a unit in process available, if someone wants them for clarification.
I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted the connector. When that happens, I completely remove P1 and solder the transformer leads directly to the board. This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a bit more work than the fix above. The connector was for ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing lost by removing it.
Hope this helps someone!
Regards,
Brian
On 12/18/20 3:49 PM, Nicole Massey wrote:
The two biggest issues with the modules are the P1 connector on the power supply and the relay.
Turn the unit on. If nothing happens it's probably the P1. If you get black blocks it's likely to be the relay.
First off, both of these repairs are covered on k1000.net. But if it's the relay give it a firm but not hard tap to knock the relay loose from the gunk clogging it up. Don't tap it hard enough to break anything. There are replacement instructions on the website.
As to the P1 connector, this is the most common design flaw in the instruments. The power supply isn't fitted with enough heat conduction, so it causes the solder on the P1 connector to go fluid. David Brown used to tell folks to resolder the P1 connector every time they opened the case on one of these. I've got two GX modules in need of this repair. (I also have a GX that needs an OS upgrade, which the site will tell someone how to do and also provide all the binaries to burn into chips so you can upgrade the machines)
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]> [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Frank D via groups.io
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 10:52 AM
To: [email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
Subject: [K1000-K1200] Thank you!
Thank you Max, for getting this started.
Maybe, over the winter, I can get my 1000PX working again. Having a group gives me a bit of inspiration!
peace,
Frank Dickinson
90 East Productions
|
Let's get this on the website. And I'll start trying to find someone to do this on my units.
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
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Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Brian M. via groups.io Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 4:17 PM To: [email protected]Subject: Re: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Nicole, A suggestion on the P1 connector repair: In manufacturing, the holes for P1 in the power supply board were drilled almost twice the diameter they should be (maybe originally to accommodate a different connector, or the transformer wires?), so a lot of solder was used to bridge the gap to the pins. Multiple heating/cooling cycles, combined with differential expansion of materials, cause fatigue in the joint. As the joint fatigues, there's less solder making contact, causing it to heat even more. The cycle eventually breaks the connection completely. Instead of simply resoldering the pins (which just restarts the clock on the same problem), first remove all the solder from the pins, then wrap several turns of 24AWG bus wire around each pin on the foil side of the board, and resolder. This provides a much better connection than the original -- electrically, mechanically and thermally -- and since the late 90s, I've never had a call-back for this. Photos of a unit in process available, if someone wants them for clarification. I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted the connector. When that happens, I completely remove P1 and solder the transformer leads directly to the board. This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a bit more work than the fix above. The connector was for ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing lost by removing it. Hope this helps someone! Regards, Brian On 12/18/20 3:49 PM, Nicole Massey wrote: The two biggest issues with the modules are the P1 connector on the power supply and the relay. Turn the unit on. If nothing happens it's probably the P1. If you get black blocks it's likely to be the relay. First off, both of these repairs are covered on k1000.net. But if it's the relay give it a firm but not hard tap to knock the relay loose from the gunk clogging it up. Don't tap it hard enough to break anything. There are replacement instructions on the website. As to the P1 connector, this is the most common design flaw in the instruments. The power supply isn't fitted with enough heat conduction, so it causes the solder on the P1 connector to go fluid. David Brown used to tell folks to resolder the P1 connector every time they opened the case on one of these. I've got two GX modules in need of this repair. (I also have a GX that needs an OS upgrade, which the site will tell someone how to do and also provide all the binaries to burn into chips so you can upgrade the machines) Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Frank D via groups.io Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 10:52 AM To: [email protected] <mailto: [email protected]> Subject: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Thank you Max, for getting this started. Maybe, over the winter, I can get my 1000PX working again. Having a group gives me a bit of inspiration! peace, Frank Dickinson 90 East Productions
|
Nicole,
A suggestion on the P1 connector repair:? In manufacturing, the
holes for P1 in the power supply board were drilled almost twice
the diameter they should be (maybe originally to accommodate a
different connector, or the transformer wires?), so a lot of
solder was used to bridge the gap to the pins.? Multiple
heating/cooling cycles, combined with differential expansion of
materials, cause fatigue in the joint.? As the joint fatigues,
there's less solder making contact, causing it to heat even more.
The cycle eventually breaks the connection completely.?
Instead of simply resoldering the pins (which just restarts the
clock on the same problem), first remove all the solder from the
pins, then wrap several turns of 24AWG bus wire around each pin on
the foil side of the board, and resolder.? This provides a much
better connection than the original -- electrically, mechanically
and thermally -- and since the late 90s, I've never had a
call-back for this.? Photos of a unit in process available, if
someone wants them for clarification.
I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted the
connector.? When that happens, I completely remove P1 and solder
the transformer leads directly to the board.? This also eliminates
the original problem, but requires a bit more work than the fix
above.? The connector was for ease of assembly in the factory,
anyway, so there's nothing lost by removing it.
Hope this helps someone!
Regards,
Brian
On 12/18/20 3:49 PM, Nicole Massey
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The two biggest issues with the modules are the P1 connector on the power supply and the relay.
Turn the unit on. If nothing happens it's probably the P1. If you get black blocks it's likely to be the relay.
First off, both of these repairs are covered on k1000.net. But if it's the relay give it a firm but not hard tap to knock the relay loose from the gunk clogging it up. Don't tap it hard enough to break anything. There are replacement instructions on the website.
As to the P1 connector, this is the most common design flaw in the instruments. The power supply isn't fitted with enough heat conduction, so it causes the solder on the P1 connector to go fluid. David Brown used to tell folks to resolder the P1 connector every time they opened the case on one of these. I've got two GX modules in need of this repair. (I also have a GX that needs an OS upgrade, which the site will tell someone how to do and also provide all the binaries to burn into chips so you can upgrade the machines)
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Frank D via groups.io
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 10:52 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [K1000-K1200] Thank you!
Thank you Max, for getting this started.
Maybe, over the winter, I can get my 1000PX working again. Having a group gives me a bit of inspiration!
peace,
Frank Dickinson
90 East Productions
|
The two biggest issues with the modules are the P1 connector on the power supply and the relay.
Turn the unit on. If nothing happens it's probably the P1. If you get black blocks it's likely to be the relay.
First off, both of these repairs are covered on k1000.net. But if it's the relay give it a firm but not hard tap to knock the relay loose from the gunk clogging it up. Don't tap it hard enough to break anything. There are replacement instructions on the website.
As to the P1 connector, this is the most common design flaw in the instruments. The power supply isn't fitted with enough heat conduction, so it causes the solder on the P1 connector to go fluid. David Brown used to tell folks to resolder the P1 connector every time they opened the case on one of these. I've got two GX modules in need of this repair. (I also have a GX that needs an OS upgrade, which the site will tell someone how to do and also provide all the binaries to burn into chips so you can upgrade the machines)
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of Frank D via groups.io Sent: Friday, December 18, 2020 10:52 AM To: [email protected]Subject: [K1000-K1200] Thank you! Thank you Max, for getting this started. Maybe, over the winter, I can get my 1000PX working again. Having a group gives me a bit of inspiration! peace, Frank Dickinson 90 East Productions
|
K1000-PX Plus and K1200 need TLC in 2021.
I have these two Kurweil's that are less than perfect functioning.
The keyboard has a stuck at full velocity key as well as inoperative 1/4 incj outputs.
The rack K1000 PX Plus is not powering up any more so discouraged by that happening.
I am asking here for moral support and migration of Kurlwin to rejuvenate the life.
I still have 3.5 inch Object Builder as well as all the MAC and Midi interfaces to be tested.
I used to run Kurlwin under Linux Wine but have not tested lately as Roland interface is on Roland Juno 106.
Let's play here again, ok ?
Lee
|
Re: Somebody has to start
Remove http from link on home page as it is implied !
Where will files appear ?
?
|
Thank you Max, for getting this started.
Maybe, over the winter, I can get my 1000PX working again. Having a group gives me a bit of inspiration!
peace,
Frank Dickinson
90 East Productions
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As nostalgia or coincidence I'm about to shovel out and go to work in Waltham right past & next to the old Waverly Oaks Waltham Kurzweil Music location (Kurzweil Edu Sys still there).
In the mid late 80's as then a EE graduate I desperately wanted to work for either Tom Scholz or Ray's Music Business in Waltham as 1st choices. It seemed no one was looking for a green but eager engineer as it was another one of those recession like downturns that happen in 4-6 mini cycles...or so it seems. Instead I kept the momentum of my senior project 16 channel vocoder in a home spare bedroom studio somewhat mothballed still today, joined the AES (went to BBN meeting back in the day), developed & got a class D amp patent 20 years ago that turned more hobby than business startup, and stuck to dabbling in devices, luthery, and a back room studio. As a day job as an employyee and consultant intermixed I focused on consumer, industrial, and mostly medical devices. Instead of audio my 1st gig out of school in Cambridge was physiologic diagnostics signal processing with other MIT spin offs in the area (the founder, my 1st boss, mentor and friend was Ray K's room-mate at MIT small world).?
So back on topic and why I'm here - To this day I still have my K1000SE (upgraded to all but the 2nd sound block as I recall), several rack modules, and had an Atrari Mega ST for library management having picked up the later right at the Waverly Oaks office giving me a brief peek into the engineering going on there. I've decided during the covid furlough at home which became layoff to start turning the bedroom studio, now a storage, back into my tiny studio and practice room - it was always good therapy to bang on the drums, play some guitar, get lost in effects, and fire up good ole kurzweil or oberheim modules. So I'm guessing that old non gig'd gear will need recapping of electrolytics, tube amps will need all sorts of TLD, and kurzweil key & rack boxes will need some display work if not firmware upgrades. Did I horde any or enough windowded 27CXXX parts? Will my Needham's Parallel port programmer even work on anything today? Can I even find it or otherthings not thought about in so long? Well hopefully I can work on that over the next couple of years now back to work but wanting to keep working on such side projects.
Hopefully enough people are still here to share what they learn as i wil also try to do.
Cheers & thanks for keeping this going.
Bill
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There are several ways to do this. The info on K1000.net is usable but somewhat obsolete, now that direct replacement LED backlit or OLED modules are available. These don't require any modification to the keyboard, other than removing the red/black backlight wires to keep them from touching anything and causing Bad Stuff to happen.
I'm at my day job now, without access to the info I use, but will post my sources when I get home later today. If you have access to the facebook group, Grayson Silaski posted a link, some time in May or June, I think, to an aliexpress vendor for the OLED modules. I'll repost that here, also.
Regards,
Brian On Thursday, December 17, 2020, 10:59:35 PM EST, pianoman26666, <digital_bry@...> wrote:
hope someone reposts the info on upgrading fixing a fading led light on a K 1000 keyboard. Sooner or later I have to get this done!
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I think there have been some newer sources for a display replacement for the keyboards that were posted recently on the old Yahoo group or perhaps the Facebook page but I may not have updated K1000.net site.? Anyone point me to newer sources or methods I will update the K1000 page. Dennis?
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 12/17/2020 8:52:44 PM
Subject: [K1000-K1200] K1000 led light
hope someone reposts the info on upgrading fixing a fading led light on a K 1000 keyboard. Sooner or later I have to get this done!
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Look to K1000.net for multiple ways to do this.
Sent from my HAL 9000 in transit to Jupiter
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-----Original Message----- From: [email protected] [mailto: [email protected]] On Behalf Of pianoman26666, Sent: Thursday, December 17, 2020 9:53 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [K1000-K1200] K1000 led light hope someone reposts the info on upgrading fixing a fading led light on a K 1000 keyboard. Sooner or later I have to get this done!
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hope someone reposts the info on upgrading fixing a fading led light on a K 1000 keyboard. Sooner or later I have to get this done!
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J.C. Tedder
Dennis Spanogle (Mr. Kurlewin K1000.net)