Larry,
The wire wrap trick is something picked up in a previous
incarnation as a TV repair guy in the mid to late 70s.? It's
proven to be quite reliable, but for people repairing their own
units, there's really no down side to removing the connector
completely.? It removes the source of heat (the contact area
between the cylindrical pins and the flat blades in the connector)
that fatigues the solder joints, so I suspect that, no matter what
your age, you'll never have to deal with it again in your
lifetime.?
Before soldering the transformer wires to the board, however, I'd
recommend recapping, at least the three large filter caps in the
power supply.? They may be functioning to some degree now, but if
they're original, they're already 30 years old, and electrolytic
caps have a finite lifespan. ? Working on the board is definitely
easier when it can still be completely removed to service it on
the bench.
Regards,
Brian
On 12/19/20 8:00 AM, LarryS wrote:
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I
think this is what I¡¯m going to do.? Just solder the leads
straight on.
My
units are from 25-30 years ago.? And NOW I¡¯m getting ready
to repair a couple.?
Of
course, the temptation is to ¡°restore¡± it because ¡°someday I
might want that to plug-in¡±.? After all ¡°if it was good
enough for the factory¡±, but, like you said, it was for the
exigencies of assembly, not end-user advantages.
But
I can¡¯t think of an overriding reason to have a disconnect
there.? And I can think of several reasons to have
hard-soldered leads ¨C a proven technique of reliability for
many years.
?
L.
?
?
I've had severe cases where heat from the pins has melted
the connector.? When that happens, I completely remove P1
and solder the transformer leads directly to the board.?
This also eliminates the original problem, but requires a
bit more work than the fix above.? The connector was for
ease of assembly in the factory, anyway, so there's nothing
lost by removing it.
Hope this helps someone!
Regards,
Brian
