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Yep. He's doing all of this, and with luck I'll have a functioning GX I can sample -- my live rig is a lot more portable, and I need a bank of GX sounds for that, with a couple very important. This

So, what I would do if this were mine, is, replace all the Caps including the ones on the Power Supply board. Check the diodes for any defects such as reverse voltage. Diodes will give a reading in

An electrolytic capacitor (like other caps) stores energy. An applied load cannot normally cause a capacitor to fail. It had to get hot internally to let its smoke out. My first thoughts, based on

Probably one of safety caps avoiding sparkles when switching on. They can die this way after years and sometimes even cause the fire. Just replace it, it will be OK. Another one can be somewhere in

Hello, folks. So my repair guy tapped on the relay, it thunked, and he plugged it in and pressed the power button. A capacitor right by the front power button got hot and let all its smoke out. This

On the precursor to this list we predicted the price for the 100-1200 modules would go up. Back then they were selling for $100 consistently. I'll go that route if I can't get this one back up, but I

I noticed on ebay there are several GX1000 available for under $250. There is even one 23 button GX (very rare). This may be the easiest way to go. The 23 button GX may not even need a rom

What you’re describing is the delayed relay output. The relay is near the rear of the unit. It’s Orange-yellow in color. About 1 inch big. I had to replace mine for the same reason. If you tap

Black squares isn't always a contrast problem -- the key is the second click. The device clicks when powered on. Then these units run their internal tests, and if everything's okay the relay is

Have someone check the battery voltage. Should be around 3.2 when new and 2.97; time to replace. Black squares is a contrast problem in the display. It can be replaced .

Yeah, I've got several of the modules with fading screens, but I don't use that as a method of access to the instrument because I'm blind. The cool thing is that everything up to the K2600 (and maybe

Not an expert on the 1000-X rack units or black box screens -but here are some things I have repaired on older synths. Any EPROMs or other ICs are in sockets may have some oxidation on the pins

Hello folks, I've been around here for a very long time, and I love these machines (Better love them, I have thirteen of them). My one black sheep 1000GX has been a problem child -- first it didn't

Thanks again. :)

Actually, the pad is made up like this - the pads are the round and square shapes at the ends of traces. They have a hole that goes all the way through the board.? The inside face of the hole is then

There is very little info online about the Pro-2. I found a review that suggests the Pro-1 was released in 1990, but nothing on the Pro-2. Does anyone have any info on this (ads, flyers, reviews,

To Dynahoe Dave: Here is a picture of what I believe the solder pad to look like: A shallow copper basin filled to the brim with solder (which can be melted with the soldering iron). When making a

To Dynahoe Dave: Yes. I just inserted a the tip of the soldering iron *into* one of the solder pads. They do in fact melt, so at least part of them is made of solder. The soldering iron doesn't go in

Do you have a picture?? Or is it the one in the post on 2/15 at 12:31 ? I have repaired / modified / designed printed circuits for around 40-50 years.? Pads on any board I have ever seen, or

Okay. I will give them the URL. thx