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This may be worthless as I’m not as familiar with my KW insides as I should be. Everyone, but everyone, will tell you to “replace the electrolytics” which is always good advice and you should

Wow, thanks for the great suggestions from everyone!? I implemented what I could with what I have on hand... Coincidentally, I am also trying to get an Akai S1000 working again, and ordered a 35w 5v

Hi Frank, As a EE I'd suggest putting a separate resistive load on those off nominal Vsupplies & ideally look at them with a scope. If the supply collapses with that load you've already separated the

That is exactly the function of the relay, and much joy has been had in the past with giving it a tap. I've also found in the past with my machines that powering the unit up and getting the blocks

All good suggestions. As previously mentioned too much load could be bad caps on mother board or other load not on Power Supply. If you have not done so, I would check the traces and solder joints on

The +5V supplies that you measure at +4.3V when connected is a problem.? K1000 won't likely boot. Digital logic of this era needs at least +4.75 V to operate properly. Some component is dropping this

OK, I went back in... The 4.3vdc readings at the power supply are present when the PS is connected to the motherboard. If I pull the Molex connector from J4, 5vdc is present at the same pins. Seems

Thanks so much for the tips! Will get back into it tomorrow. I no longer have a 'scope, but can perform the other tests. -- peace, Frank Dickinson 90 East Productions Our "lockdown" videos (

Scanning the schematics, the DC supply voltages are:? +12V,? -12V,? +5V and +5V backup (present with power off) I don't see a 4.3V supply that you measured - unless this is the +5V backup voltage

Check every electrolytic capacitor with a magnifying glass. These units are very old and some of the caps go bad and, if so, they usually leak. The leak corrodes the traces and or contacts under or

Thanks, Nicole! Will give it a try and report back... -- peace, Frank Dickinson 90 East Productions Our "lockdown" videos ( https://youtu.be/He6Q2RCW3SU )

I have a K1000 with exactly the same symptoms as your 1000PX. ? I?did everything that?you mentioned (following the tips in K1000.net)?and still got?solid blocks on the display. ? I replaced the

Sounds like the relay. Give it a decent (but not excessive pop) on its cover and see what happens. The tap will work for a while, but if this is it and you still have it open it's good to replace it.

Belated Happy New Year! Finally spent a bit of time on my non-functioning 1000PX. Here's where I am so far... The unit comes on, but does not boot. All I see is black blocks on the upper row of

I still have a K-model. I’ll give you what you paid or your strips, just cuz… Contact me offlist. L. I had a K1000 with a couple keys that seemed to be stuck at full velocity. It turned out to be

I had a K1000 with a couple keys that seemed to be stuck at full velocity. It turned out to be the little rubber contacts underneath the keys. They got old and wore out after several decades of use.

No joy.? Confirmed in a 1000 PX that the Crystalfontz OLEDs are NOT plug-n-play operational replacements (not to mention the different mounting footprint).?? The display won't even start up, which

One idea re: pin 2, might be to use your wire wrap idea with the stripped end of a piece of insulated wire, then solder the other end to wherever that circuit trace is going. Or... use a length of

J.C., Thanks for saving the post.? Aliexpress was carrying some of the displays, but they're not always a dependable marketplace, either for finding products or actually getting them shipped after

Nicole, I'd never call someone clueless for being genuinely interested and asking questions. The wires themselves are of more than adequate size for what they're carrying, only ~2A max on startup,