Re: Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
Hi Hamish,
Thanks for sharing your experience! I also appreciate your humor?:-) I will definitely?have a look at the pictures of your trailer on this site.
Yes, I must admit that I have the impression that you are quite a perfectionist. Now that you confirm it yourself, I am sure of it :-)
If I finally decide to build?the ECO 5.5, I won't completely?follow your example.? I think I will prioritize speed over finish in the build and I will definitely?ask for help getting the boat on and off the trailer.? Also, I will?first try and find a secondhand flat trailer before I decide to have one custom built?for me.? I can even imagine simply borrowing or renting one the first time I bring the boat to the water, which is just 20 km from my house.?
Thanks again and good luck with your project!
Robert
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Re: Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
Hi Bryan,
you are confirming my thoughts. Thanks anyway :-)
I am indeed planning to keep the boat mainly on one mooring place in summer and return it to my garage in winter, so I wouldn't?need the trailer very often. This is why I would use a simple?flat trailer.? Getting the boat on and off the trailer at home would?then be the main problem since it shouldn't be a big problem to find helping hands (or a hoist as you say) at the marina.?
Maybe I could use a very low trailer or enlarge?my garage doors so I could leave the boat on the trailer.?
Thanks again regards
Robert
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Re: Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
Hello Heimfried,
that is very useful information. Since the trailer described in your link should carry a 8 m boat, it is MUCH larger than what I need. So I may hope the price for "my" trailer would?be correspondingly lower..
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Re: Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
I do not believe the trailer has to be the full width of the boat. The Keels are very strong. Longitudinal padded beds that curve to fit the keel shape along with guides running inboard of the chines would align the boat and carry the load. If possible, the wheels could be between the beds. Something like this would be much less than 2-meters wide without the boat.
Keel rollers at the aft end of the padded beds will allow launching with less trailer immersion. They only improves recovery a little bit.
You can borrow a trailer to get your boat in and out of the water. This may work if you keep the boat at a mooring. Starting with an available boat trailer for at least an 18-ft boat, lash two heavy beams across the trailer and pad the ends where the hull will rest. After the boat is on this kind of trailer, slide it around on the padding until you are happy with the location (it is not hard to slide). Then lash it diagonally fore and aft and diagonally athwartships to keep it from shifting.
To get a boat off a trailer is pretty easy. First lower the trailer tongue as far as possible. Next place a beam under the boat just ahead of the transom. It should be wider than the trailer.? Block up the ends of this beam. Raise the trailer tongue as far as possible. As you raise the tongue, the aft end of the boat will lift off the trailer. Insert a second beam a few feet aft of the bow and block it up. Lastly lower the tongue to medium height and push the trailer out from under the boat. Reverse this process to load the boat onto a trailer.
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Re: Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
Hamish, your boat looks great sitting on the trailer. The trailer has turned out really well, so congratulations on your work there, as well as the boat.? Can I suggest adding some bolt on guides, maybe from tanalised heavy plywood or straight wood that will help keep things aligned as you start to winch the boat onto the trailer. I made upright guides on each of my bunks that are cambered the same as the hulls and they really help a lot. There is a critical point just at the start of the retrieval where the boat can move sideways of its own accord in even quite light conditions. Perhaps up towards the mudguards so the boat can not swing round at the front and get dangerously close to them. No doubt you have thought of some of this stuff but I thought I would mention it.
regards ?Bryan??
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Re: Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
Hi Robert,
Ah the trailer! A project in itself. I modeled mine from the 2 pictures of Tony's from Australia, plus some reading around design and my usual over engineering!?
What I have made I can only hope works. I did write a little about this in a thread a while ago, but now having build it at put the yacht on it, I can see as can you from the pictures the relative heights.
You are correct in that the trailer is the same width as the yacht at 2.5m. This is problematic as the yacht must then sit above the mud guards. Mine is a compromise. I paid a premium for low profile 13 inch rims and tyres. Then positioned it all so it tucks under the chine. Distance from the water line at the stern to the road is 650mm. I was initially horrified with very poor launch ramps locally I thought it would not get off the trailer. However out of the shed for the first time and sitting next to my monohull which is a breeze to launch, it does not look so high! I also incorporated a tilting draw bar, this adds only marginally to the complexity but may make all the difference.?
Yet to launch! so at present it is all just a theory. I will CAD the design if it works. I over build everything, my trailer weighed 181kg for hot dip galvanising. I used 75 x 40mm C section.?
Getting it under the yacht. Don't do it my way. I am stubborn and refuse to ask for help. I chocked it up higher and higher on 4 points, strapped it to the shed roof beams, and generally risked the whole lot collapsing onto the trailer. I kind of winched the trailer under the yacht inch by inch over 2 hours.?
I will post some pictures to help.?
Regards
Hamish?
|
John:
??? Thanks:
??? ??? Where are the other 7 parts of the story to be found??? I
like New Zealand, if one has to choose a place to be
"stranded".................
??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? H.W.
On 11/26/2017 01:47 AM, John Cudak cudak62@... [k-designs]
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Size doesn't always matter in my opinion.
Here is a great story from years ago about a boat that was
barely 6 meters... of course there are few comforts. :)
|
Re: Intro [2 Attachments]
Bernd:
??? I know the first rig well.... It's Arne's boat Johanna with
his cambered junk rig, The second (Dobra Kusa) I believe is a
Ljungstr?m rig, though the photo doesn't really show it to best
effect with it's double loose footed sails furled about a rotating
mast..... A very interesting rig. ? Your photo of Pete's final, or
at least third iteration on Oryx, shows great detail of how he
built his version of Paul McKay's Aerojunk rig.? I've felt since I
first saw photos of Oryx that the aspect ratio was a bit too low,
nor could I understand why one would truncate the upper panel,
except perhaps to serve as storm canvas, though there are other
ways this could be done.?? The beauty of this system is that a
nicely cambered sail can be achieved using absolutely flat
sailcloth, and the batten system is simple and very strong.? A
rugged, and very "field serviceable" rig.? When people comment
about windage or drag, one has only to point the veritable birds
nest of standing rigging on most Bermuda rigs, and the liabilities
it often poses when setting sails and tacking, and that without
mentioning the veritable house of cards with dozens of possible
points of failure, any of which can bring the whole thing toppling
down.?
Ljungstr?m rig
??? I'd love to see a video of your wishbone gaff rig in
operation...... I have difficulty really understanding the details
of it from the few photos I can find.?? I've read most of your
work that is to be found on the Duckworks website, all of which is
quite worthwhile reading, and contains some valuable insights.?? I
have a passion for innovative, original, and outside the box
thinking.?? It's what drives progress forward.?? Sometimes things
that didn't work out well are of as much value as things that did,
as far as what can be learned from them.?? Your own work only came
to my attention through Oryx, and shows the kind of innovative
outside the box thinking, good choices, and great flexibility of
thought that I've always admired.???
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? H.W.
On 11/26/2017 06:49 AM, Bernd@... [k-designs] wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
?You are rigth, it was not necessary to go into the junk
rig details. I am also a memberfrom the Junk Rig
Assication. Because there are intersting developments. I
like special some of the Norwegian boats with there
beautiful champerd sails. I hope also that the discussion
was, besides for you, helpful. Thanks for all the
contriputions from the others. At last here two pictures
from complete different rigs to make my point in this
respect.?
Cheers
Bernd
|
Re: Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
hi Robert
yes the cost of a trailer is an unwelcome addition to building a smaller boat. There is no way round it really. From my own experience, getting a trailer built that fits the boat perfectly, with either rollers or well placed padded "bunks " (which is what I have on Duo480 Jigsaw ), makes using the boat so much more enjoyable.? A flat deck trailer will work but usually will be too high, and will mean submerging it completely getting the boat on and off. even then you will need supports under the hulls anyway.
Getting the boat on the trailer the first time: yes you need to assemble a group of friends who do not have back problems and carry out a coordinated lift . Helps to have the trailer hooked onto a vehicle tow hitch to stop the trailer getting misaligned as you push it on the last little bit.
Every time I launch and retrieve my boat I am so glad I have a well fitting trailer. It makes life so much easier.? Of course if you intend perhaps keeping the boat on a mooring over the summer months and only pulling it out in winter to take it home then any suitable flat deck trailer that you can hire will do , You still then need your friends or a boat hoist at the marina to complete the process of getting it on or off.
There are examples of trailers in the photos section on this forum. Hamish , who is building his Eco cat is also building his own trailer, so make sure you see his photos too
regards Bryan
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Re: Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
Hi Robert,
Jens from Saxony, Germany, who is building an ECO62 (68) houseboat as I do, discussed this point at a German boote-forum. Following a hint, he found a professional builder, who will build a customised complete new trailer for 3000 €. Nessecary paperwork included.
Perhaps you will find a similar offer.
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Trailering an ECO 5.5 (or similar small cat)
Hi everybody, I am still considering to start building an ECO 5.5 sailing version. I have found out sources for the necessary materials in my country (Austria) and found that the expected cost doesn't exceed my budget. I have considered tooling, where and when to build it and several other organizational aspects.
However, I am still worried about one aspect: trailering the boat after the project is finished.? The ECO designs cannot be taken apart, so the boat must be loaded on the trailer as it floats on the water. The boats' dimensions being 5.5 x 2.5 metres, the trailer will more or less have to match these dimensions. I am already assuming you can use a simple flat top trailer (no specially made boat trailer) but in these dimensions, trailers don't go cheap. I found out that a new trailer would cost somewhere between EUR 3.500 and 5.000. A secondhand trailer can be got for less, but not for that much less.?
Also, I am wondering how to get the bulky and heavy cat (290 kg empty weight) on the trailer.? You would probably need four very strong men or six ordinary mortals to lift the boat on the trailer by hand.?
If anybody has any experience with this or has already thought it out and found solutions I would appreciate hearing from him/her.?
Robert
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Re: Voyager plans for sale
Hi, what kdxxx are you referring to?? Rgrds Franco?
Il 26/nov/2017 02:06 PM, " lvogtman@... [k-designs]" < k-designs@...> ha scritto:
?
I have the full set of Voyager plans for sale if anybody is interested. I will offer them at a good price but will not loan them out, copy them for you or any other scheme. They are registered with Bernd and are valid. Make a reasonable offer and I will respond and if you buy them I will copy Bernd on our transaction so that he knows you are the new owner.
Best regards and happy holidays to all!
Lee
|
?You are rigth, it was not necessary to go into the junk rig details. I am also a memberfrom the Junk Rig Assication. Because there are intersting developments. I like special some of the Norwegian boats with there beautiful champerd sails. I hope also that the discussion was, besides for you, helpful. Thanks for all the contriputions from the others. At last here two pictures from complete different rigs to make my point in this respect.?
Cheers
Bernd
|
I have the full set of Voyager plans for sale if anybody is interested. I will offer them at a good price but will not loan them out, copy them for you or any other scheme. They are registered with Bernd and are valid. Make a reasonable offer and I will respond and if you buy them I will copy Bernd on our transaction so that he knows you are the new owner.
Best regards and happy holidays to all!
Lee
|
Size doesn't always matter in my opinion. Here is a great story from years ago about a boat that was barely 6 meters... of course there are few comforts. :)
|
Thanks Bernd:
??? This is a far more comprehensive response than I had really
expected, and addresses all my questions on the topic.? Not much
more to say or ask on the topic of weight.??? This really isn't
the place to get into the? merits and liabilities of junk rigs.??
The junk rig association (JRA) and the Yahoo forum on junk rigs,
are both great resources, and all of the issues you have brought
up have been discussed ad infinitum, as well as soft wing sails.??
??? I appreciate the time you have taken to clarify this payload
question, and hope that it is of as much interest and value to
others as to me.
??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
H.W.
On 11/25/2017 08:19 AM, Bernd@... [k-designs] wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
?
Hello Mr. H.&.M. and other contributors to this issue
Here
we go again. I belief have read my answer to
Andrew. Which answers
also some of your questions in this letter.
Coming
first back to weights. The rig as shown will
weight in including sails and rigging 135 kg
(Dynema stays). My wishbone gaff rig weights
about 145 kg. This extra weight is in the
furler on the yackstay and the wishbone. We
used a similar rig later on our Pelican.
Unfurling the sail about 10 seconds, furling
the sail about 20 seconds including setting
the inducing setting of the topping lift.. You
can not do it faster with a junk rig. Windward
angle without pinching but some speed decrease
35 degree, optimum with better speed 40
degree.
By
the way, you need only Aluminum tubes for the
mast, which is a big money saver. The wishbone
is a material mix from stainless steel and
Aluminum. When you can weld stainless steel
then it is good to do. When I look at most of
the junk rig with all the ropes I have some
taut about running resistance and the mast on
the wrong side. If I would use a junk rig then
the simple Jester rig. When you look for
instance on all the different sail and other
modification at many of the junk rigs
including the extreme low aspect ratio junk
rig on the ORYX with all the experience Peter
has starting with the "Batcher" I see no
reason to use it. This includes the Tyler
Aerorig. When I calculate the time to build
all the wishbones it would be a no-no for my.
I am not this patient. Costs is an other
factor. Besides a simple junk rig like on the
Jester the are more expensive as any sloop
rig. But at the end it is up to you. The only
cheap and good working wing sail junk was the
boat of my friend I was showing the photo
yesterday. The only two photos I have are also
in the photo folder. The boat was so easy to
handle that his engine was a big junk of
roost. One day he sailed into the old Denia
port at wind force 7 to 8. His cockpit still
closed. At the last moment he opened the
cockpit rounded of to his his mooring and let
down the rest of his sails. He was not a
special kind person, but a gifted designer
builder and sailor. He was known on the coast
as "Ken on the rocks". A pity, I made only
some sketches of his super simple wing rips
which I lost somehow. General, the forward
part was a wing section with a big flap. So
far to the rig. ?So far to the rig. By the way
this is not means to convert you. So to see
you are a junk addict and why not. This was
long, next only short answers.
Coming
back to weight. First a strange thing,
catamarans need more heavy ground tackles. For
this boat say a Bruce anchor of 20 lb
(10kg)and a 3/5 chain, length 60ft 24 kg. Rope
14mm 100m 18 kg. Also together 52kg The second
anchor gear 2/3 also 34 kg together 86 kg.
Rigging
my Wishbone rig mast AL tubes different
diameters 140mm lower part 130mm upper part 57
kg + Wishbone gaff complete 6 kg. Furler
without profile 6 kg weight total 95 kg
(compare to junk rig, significantly less).
Water 80litres. Katadyne 35 electric 15 kg.
Fenders and other deck gear 28 kg. Engine
56kg. Solar panels+ wind generator Rutland 40
kg. Batteries (up to you if you use lithium of
sufficient capacity about 18 kg)
Total
with some tolerances 392 kg. Boat weight
complete incl water = 1795 kg. Useful extra
load till waterline
=
1058 kg. Minus the dinghy of course, but I am
sure sufficient for food, clothing, navigation
tools chard's books canary etc. will be
sufficient for a route of 4000 mile at a speed
of 6 knots = etmal 144 miles = 27,77 days.
With
good planning the probability to run in a severe
storm is 7% at the
normal routes around the usual banana belt. When you
sail outside
this area the storm probability is 8%, These are
meteorological data
from the NOAA. For
a good information of the weather conditions
everywhere on the world
is this link very helpful
Now
again and at last. There where many trips made
around the world with
small catamarans (or monos). But lets stay with the
catamarans. Go to
the web pages of Emmnuel an Maximilien Berque. The
where sailing the
Atlantic with a 6m Proa and a 6m catamaran. By the
way with the proa
without sextant and chards. It is an attitude. For
all the other
arguments from distriputors to this thema, many
thanks. All are right
in there views, but it must not be my view or from
others. In any
case interesting. One needs a palay an other only a
tent.
At
last to this issue, good seamanship is the crucial
factor, you can
loosen your boat more easy on a coast as on the sea.
Per my own
mistake we where in a winter mistral (December 1990)
8 miles out the
coast. Not far, but it was more safe to went out to
the sea. Winter
mistrals are more sever (about force 10 with a
temperature of 8
degree, also very tense air). No problem, we
streamed in a bend 160m
16mm rope out with a tire. 4m2 storm jib, Full
control over the boat all the time. It was so easy
that my wife was even cooking (by the
way, cooking would be impossible on a mono).
Short
back to the KD 860. The plans now sold for many
years and I picked up
some ideas which I have adapted in the plans, like
the forward
windows, a center/dagger board which folds
completely back and can
not damage the boat and the Whisbone rig (not
included in the
standard plans set, but can be separate ordered). I
think this is
sufficient to close the discussion regarding this
issue.
?
Bernd?
|
Re: electric motor experiments
Mike you right for low revolution. In high revolution to much cavitation
Bernd
|
Re: electric motor experiments
Hello Hans
It came only in my hands. I do not know how good the quality of the thing is or nor.? RC props work of course but because of there "spoed" distripution is not optimal for water. Okay the are cheap, when the work to your liking why not. You never need 2 KW for this light boat, 500 watt is sure sufficient if the revolution is not to high otherwise the work better as "roomklopper", cavitation etc. The batteries will be a problem as you mention. The are not cheap (Lipos) or heavy. My setupcan be build cheap, but of course is more noisy. Success with your future experiments and keep us informed, because many persons are interestd.
Cheers
Bernd
Von: "hanszilver@... [k-designs]"
An: k-designs@...
Gesendet: 19:52 Donnerstag, 23.November 2017
Betreff: [k-designs] Re: electric motor experiments
?
Hi Bernd,
I actually also looked in these kind of things, but it seems the flex cable gives too much friction, and is probably not strong enough for a 400 Watt electric motor.?
I'm not sure why you think the RC propeller is not good. It works better than a standard prop (the spoed is 6 instead of 4 from a? trolling motor prop), being efficient at the cost of weed shedding and robustness.? For the tiny amount of power available my?motor does well.
I think the problem with electric boatmotors is that the power (in a? small outboard kind of setup like mine)? is very limited. And if you use "normal" kind of power (say 2 Kw or more) you need big, heavy and? expensive batteries. The electromotor itself is relatively inexpensive.
I have thought about a longtail kind of thing like you proposed in a private mail, but chose to use a simple, more or less standard setup because of the noise (motor not silenced under water) and the "lack of power unless you? really go for it and buy a big batterie". The motor setup would then be more expensive as my whole boat, and that is not in balance.
Greetings from Hans
|
Hello Mr. H.&.M. and other contributors to this issue
Here
we go again. I belief have read my answer to Andrew. Which answers
also some of your questions in this letter.
Coming
first back to weights. The rig as shown will weight in including
sails and rigging 135 kg (Dynema stays). My wishbone gaff rig
weights about 145 kg. This extra weight is in the furler on the
yackstay and the wishbone. We used a similar rig later on our
Pelican. Unfurling the sail about 10 seconds, furling the sail about
20 seconds including setting the inducing setting of the topping
lift.. You can not do it faster with a junk rig. Windward angle
without pinching but some speed decrease 35 degree, optimum with
better speed 40 degree.
By
the way, you need only Aluminum tubes for the mast, which is a big
money saver. The wishbone is a material mix from stainless steel and
Aluminum. When you can weld stainless steel then it is good to do.
When I look at most of the junk rig with all the ropes I have some
taut about running resistance and the mast on the wrong side. If I
would use a junk rig then the simple Jester rig. When you look for
instance on all the different sail and other modification at many of
the junk rigs including the extreme low aspect ratio junk rig on the
ORYX with all the experience Peter has starting with the "Batcher"
I see no reason to use it. This includes the Tyler Aerorig. When I
calculate the time to build all the wishbones it would be a no-no
for my. I am not this patient. Costs is an other factor. Besides a
simple junk rig like on the Jester the are more expensive as any
sloop rig. But at the end it is up to you. The only cheap and good
working wing sail junk was the boat of my friend I was showing the
photo yesterday. The only two photos I have are also in the photo
folder. The boat was so easy to handle that his engine was a big
junk of roost. One day he sailed into the old Denia port at wind
force 7 to 8. His cockpit still closed. At the last moment he opened
the cockpit rounded of to his his mooring and let down the rest of
his sails. He was not a special kind person, but a gifted designer
builder and sailor. He was known on the coast as "Ken on the
rocks". A pity, I made only some sketches of his super simple
wing rips which I lost somehow. General, the forward part was a wing
section with a big flap. So far to the rig. ?So far to the rig.
By the way this is not means to convert you. So to see you are a
junk addict and why not. This was long, next only short answers.
Coming
back to weight. First a strange thing, catamarans need more heavy
ground tackles. For this boat say a Bruce anchor of 20 lb (10kg)and
a 3/5 chain, length 60ft 24 kg. Rope 14mm 100m 18 kg. Also together
52kg The second anchor gear 2/3 also 34 kg together 86 kg.
Rigging
my Wishbone rig mast AL tubes different diameters 140mm lower part
130mm upper part 57 kg + Wishbone gaff complete 6 kg. Furler without
profile 6 kg weight total 95 kg (compare to junk rig, significantly
less). Water 80litres. Katadyne 35 electric 15 kg. Fenders and other
deck gear 28 kg. Engine 56kg. Solar panels+ wind generator Rutland
40 kg. Batteries (up to you if you use lithium of sufficient
capacity about 18 kg)
Total
with some tolerances 392 kg. Boat weight complete incl water = 1795
kg. Useful extra load till waterline
=
1058 kg. Minus the dinghy of course, but I am sure sufficient for
food, clothing, navigation tools chard's books canary etc. will be
sufficient for a route of 4000 mile at a speed of 6 knots = etmal
144 miles = 27,77 days.
With
good planning the probability to run in a severe storm is 7% at the
normal routes around the usual banana belt. When you sail outside
this area the storm probability is 8%, These are meteorological data
from the NOAA. For
a good information of the weather conditions everywhere on the world
is this link very helpful
Now
again and at last. There where many trips made around the world with
small catamarans (or monos). But lets stay with the catamarans. Go to
the web pages of Emmnuel an Maximilien Berque. The where sailing the
Atlantic with a 6m Proa and a 6m catamaran. By the way with the proa
without sextant and chards. It is an attitude. For all the other
arguments from distriputors to this thema, many thanks. All are right
in there views, but it must not be my view or from others. In any
case interesting. One needs a palay an other only a tent.
At
last to this issue, good seamanship is the crucial factor, you can
loosen your boat more easy on a coast as on the sea. Per my own
mistake we where in a winter mistral (December 1990) 8 miles out the
coast. Not far, but it was more safe to went out to the sea. Winter
mistrals are more sever (about force 10 with a temperature of 8
degree, also very tense air). No problem, we streamed in a bend 160m
16mm rope out with a tire. 4m2 storm jib, Full control over the boat
all the time. It was so easy that my wife was even cooking (by the
way, cooking would be impossible on a mono).
Short
back to the KD 860. The plans now sold for many years and I picked up
some ideas which I have adapted in the plans, like the forward
windows, a center/dagger board which folds completely back and can
not damage the boat and the Whisbone rig (not included in the
standard plans set, but can be separate ordered). I think this is
sufficient to close the discussion regarding this issue. ? Bernd?
|
I would like to make a few points about using the 860 for ocean cruising. I think the 850 is a nice small cruising catamaran for crew with
discipline to not overload. However, it's size limits capsize resistance
in big breaking waves, limiting the passages to places with reasonable?
waves.
Weight capacity is adequate if the crew is disciplined about what they bring. Many cruising crew are not disciplined enough for even much larger catamarans. Because the 860 is so small, it puts a premium on this skill. Sit down and make a careful weight study of what you need. It only takes a few hours. If you still have reasonable reserve capacity, you should be OK as long as you don't become a pack-rat. For my own boat, I remove everything not screwed down once each year, clean the inside of the boat with bleach solution and then only restow what is truly needed. Over the years I have had very little increase in variable load.
Size affects the seaworthiness of multihulls. Any skilled sailor can reef early to prevent capsize from wind. However, smaller multihulls are more sensitive to big waves. I have never capsized a catamaran in big waves and I have sailed in 50-knot winds, gusting much higher, and 25+ feet breaking waves. The point is that the crew has less control over capsize when the waves get really large and steep. When the face of a breaking wave jets against a hull it can impart tremendous energy that tries to capsize the boat. This force is resisted by the hull slipping and its mass moment of inertia. So large catamarans can withstand much bigger waves because they have a much bigger moment of inertia.
In Practical terms this means that where you sail effects the safety from capsize due to waves. Some parts of the world are very difficult. For example the area between Hawaii and the Philippians has over 40-ft breaking waves during typhoons, there is no safe season and distances are vast so that a clear weather window can be too short for a crossing. I think larger multihulls are much safer in areas like this. However, most of the worlds oceans are not as difficult and smaller boats are a better fit.
|
Robert Twiss
Bernd Kohler