开云体育

Nice work!

Gary, KD8GQM

Hi,

This project started out as an attempt to create a template for a front panel for a 5" screen in the "classic" 250x190x110 case that I selected for to house my radio. Easier reprinting then cutting metal wrong...

Actually coming out pretty good and might decided to use it instead and put thin metal shielding on the inside. Still some work to do - lcd screws need to be moved out a little on the right, need to dig out a little in the back for the trs sockets so the retaining ring doesn't slip when tightened, add labels for switches and plugs and create a bezel for the lcd (that will wait unitl I turn it on and can see the visual portion of the screen). Probably will also create a version that can be used as a template for those that want to cut metal...

Will probably post it on thingiverse when I am done. Meanwhile, if someone wanted either the stl or Fusion 360 files, please let me know.

73
Mark
AJ6CU

Jack and Al,

Thank you very much for the confirmation!

And yet another person that wished the ARRL would publish your book faster! Very much looking forward to it.

73
Mark
AJ6CU

And this is the message id

/g/JackAl/topic/29540974#553

Note that the pdf had headers on top of the audio shield. Neither Jack's description in the above message or details in the assembly manual have top headers. Only male pins.

73
Mark

Gary

Found this in the archives. ?Seems to indicate that should add those extra headers. ?Still don't believe they are needed, but...

/g/JackAl/attachment/475/1/CPU%20PINS%20_2_.pdf

mark

Gary,

I looked on the circuit board trace diagram on page 35 and 36 of Section 2 of the assembly manual and I believe that you are correct on the two parallel inside headers. However, it looks like the ground pin on the cross header (towards the edge of the board) is connected. I am not knowledgeable enough to understand whether that ground pin is important or not. I will probably connect it. The rest of the cross bar pins don't appear to be connected.

Let me know if you check this one or not.

73
Mark
AJ6CU

开云体育

I know nothing for sure but my assumption was that those (interior plugs) were left over from Jack & Al's testing.? I could find nothing in the manual that anything hooks to them so my plan was to leave them out.? If i'm wrong, I can always remove the teensy and solder them in later.

I haven't cut the trace on the teensy but I plan to.? Not sure but I believe that separates the usb power from the power coming from the JackAl so if you have them both on at once, you won't blow anything up.

Cheers

Gary - KD8GQM

Gary,

Thanks! I think I will explore your path. Sounds like I have one less part than my approach.

Did you figure out the "interior" plugs on the Teensy (that was my question 2). The VUSB pin (that appears to be missing in all the photos in the assembly manual) may be related to a discussion on cutting a trace on the teensy depending on how you plan to power it. I saw the discussion, and had planned on looking at it before I grabbed my soldering iron. :-)

73
Mark
AJ6CU

开云体育

Sounds like i'm at about the same point as you.? I just went thru the pre-testing list and am now at the point of mounting the teensy.

Not sure about "best" but I planned mine a little different.?? Not that I see anything wrong with what you propose.

I'm using male pins soldered to the audio shield.? That plugs into female headers with long male pins on the bottom that go thru the teensy and that the teensy is soldered to those male pins.? Those same long male pins are left long below the teensy and plug into a second set of female headers with short male pins.? Those short male pins are soldered to the JackAl board.? So essentially you can unplug the audio shield from the teensy (male pins on the audio shield plugging into female below), and the teensy from the JackAl (male pins on the teensy plugging into female on the JackAl).? Does that make sense??

I toyed with just using male pins on the teensy for the 20 pins that the audio shield doesn't touch.? This would be the male pins in your picture on the right side sticking up from the teensy.? But I figured, (1) that might make some difficulty mating the teensy to the JackAl due to difference in pin length and, (2) there might be a future need to be able to plug something into those pins for testing or expansion.?

Hope this helps.? Just my $0.02.

Gary - KD8GQM

Hi,

Finally getting around to this one on my workbench...

Two Questions on Teensy mounting and audio shield

1. is this the best socket approach.? (see photo below). Starting at the top,??

a. Audio Shield
b. Male/female strip with male headers soldered to Audio Shield
c. Male male pins. The Teensy is sandwich between the strip on top and the upside strip on the audio shield. In this configuration, I would solder the male/male pins to the top of the teensy?
d. Male female strip on bottom, with male being soldered into JACKAL board.

1.?

2. Been staring at the mounting for the Teensy into the main board. In photo 2-11 of Section 2 of the assembly manual (ver 16), there is a secondary set of headers on the inside (one 3 at top and one 5 at bottom) and a cross set of headers (5 pins to the right). The Teensy also has a position for one more pin right next to the usb header, but Figure 2-11 does not show a corresponding socket.?

?

Yet figure2-2 Does not include the headers on the top (neither the 3 or 1 pin and does not include the 5 pin on the right)>

?

I assume that Figure 2-11 is correct? And what about that extra pin that is on the top on 2-11 and just to the right of C10 (On the board it looks like VUSB?) . Should that pin be socketed and connected to the Teensy?

?

Thanks
73
mark
AJ6CU

I have just built v 5 received last Fall and when in CW mode using hand key my side tone tells me I am sending code as expected but when monitoring with another recover all I hear is a continuous carrier. Any suggestions?

having used the IDE for a few years here is what I do to manage library files etc for a WINDOWS system

1. In MyDocuments there should be an Arduino folder - if not make it
2. In that folder there should be a libraries folder - if not make it
3. Inside MyDocuments/Arduino I create a directory for each project - project_name
4. Into the MyDocuments/Arduino/project_name folder I put the Arduino IDE project files - the .ino's
5. Into the MyDocuments/libraries folder I put the libraries that are specific to various projects

The good thing about this is that the IDE will search the MyDocuments/Arduino/libraries folder FIRST and if it finds the required resource file it will use that. If it does not find it there, then it goes and searches all the other library locations.
So if you modify a standard library or you have a version that you need to use which is different to the current library version - you can put the modified library in the MyDocuments/Arduino/libraries.
Also remember that the IDE looks for libraries at startup - if you add library files while it is open you need to restart the IDE.

anyway just my way of doing things which is often weird and not suiting others
73
Matt
9V1MH/VK3AMH/YF2AAH

for the most part it is the same but the raduino has 2 extra pins out from the board to the main board .
I would do the testing but as I have been unable to precure the board from qrpguys? who I no longer order anything from I gave up on ever getting a board. I wish there was a 2nd place to get finalized board as with the damage this last 4 months to the nerves in my right hand i can not solder any more.

Thanks for the offer Jack.? I have several of your boards and will test out when I get the uBitx v6.? If it hasn't been reported on by then, I'll be happy to do a quick review.

George N2APB

REVISED again with a detailed description of the design from Farhan

it would appear that all the pins are the same - just with 2 more added to the row for the PTT and Keyer which means JackAl should work given its a custom built cable to connect to the board where the raduino would normally go.

detailed response from Farhan on the design.

If you look carefully, the pins are still the same, we have brought down the PTT and keyer lines from the raduino's 8 pin connector on the top to the main board to hook up the mic and the keyer. However, these lines have been added next to the existing lines of the main board's connector. Further more, we haven't touched the CONTROLS connector on the top of the Raduino, it remains as it was on older boards.

1. Using the 16x2 Raduino with the new board:

You can still plug-in an old raduino board into the new V6 board. You will have to align the old board such that the V6 main board's pins 3 to 18 line up with the old Raduino's 1 to 16. Of course, the on-board MIC connector and the keyer won't work as those lines are missing, you can tack solder them. I don't seem anyone needing to do this anyway.

(more on this later).

2. Using the TFT Raduino with the old board:

You plug in the TFT Raduino such that the pins 3 to 18 of the TFT Raduino fit into the existing 16 pins of the raduino on the V5/V4/V3 main board. If you were upgrading a V5/4/3 main board to the TFT, you would have had wired the PTT and Keyer directly from the top connector of the Raduino and you wouldn't need the pins 1 and 2 of the TFT Raduino to wire up the PTT and the Keyer lines.

?

Upgrading V5/4/3 to the New TFT.

1. This doesn't need you to acquire the new TFT Raduino at all.

2. Directly order an SPI TFT display of 2.8 inch with ILI9341 display controller and XPT2046_Touchscreen controller. Here is one such listing on Amazon.

3. On the Raduino, the digital lines of D8, D9, D10, D11, D12, D13 are brought out on the 16 pin LCD connector of the 16x2 LCD as pins 4,6, 11,12,13,14.

4. The TFT display's back side has pins clearly marked out. Solder wires from from the display connector to the TFT display such that :

D8 -> TOUCH_CS

D9 -> Data/Command

D10 ->? TFT_CS

D11 -> SDI

D12 -> SDO

D13 -> SCK

5, Load the new firmware of V6 from the github and off you go!

?I hope this clarifies it

?