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Re: HP 8673D synthesized generator - need replace RF out connector - partial front panel removal suggestions

 

Decided "go for broke" --- gently lowered the unit onto the table in front of the shelving where it lives (and onto a piece of carpet material), turned it on it's side (3.5mm front panel connector towards bottom - a better choice would have been 3.5mm front panel connector towards top), and continued fastener removal (in many small labeled bags!)

Got to the point where the two halves are split, but not physically separated.

There are numerous wires (towards the front only) connecting the two halves; only two are UT141-type semi-rigid line (RF to and from the lower unit, I believe.) There appears to be enough slack in the wires (except for the two UT141-type semi-rigid lines) to allow about 100mm of separation without unplugging or unsoldering wires (which represents most of the steps involved in separating the two units by service manual.)

Getting to this stage required removing fasteners along the left and right sides that appeared likely to hold the front panel of the upper section in place, as well as fasteners along the sides that join the two halves. The (diagonal, right side) upper fastener at the front was partly obstructed by a U shaped aluminum section (about 5mm radius). I used small diagonal cutters to chew away some of that until I could remove the fastener. The material turns out to be part of the internal cover that isolates the two units, except for an open area near the center/front. I do not think my small cutting will cause problem.

At this point, the front panel of the upper section would still not separate from the body. Along the back of the unit (between the two units) was a span of thin metal (like top and bottom covers, same type of finish, decorative style) with two screws; I removed that piece (exposing the gap between the two units at the rear), and with this, the two units began to move independently, so I focused back to the front panel separation.

On the next step, I removed the decorative trim from the top of the upper front panel (thin screwdriver to pry away the plastic trim piece); under there were three more fasteners that I removed. Once these were removed, the front panel showed some more possibility of independent movement but still was stuck in position.

At this point (with the rear mid-point cover removed and the two units beginning to move independently), I began separating the two units, but discovered that the two semi-rigid (UT141) hardlines connecting the two halves was preventing much movement. I removed the 3.5mm male connectors from the upper unit termination (one of the two switches alongside the output attenuator). This required temporarily removing one end of two of the local (terminating both ends between the two switches) UT141 hardlines so that I could get better access to one of the two top-to-bottom hardline connectors. Once both of those connectors were removed from their switches (on the top side; no attention to the bottom side of the two cables), I was able separate further the two units (requiring careful steps to navigate the two now-free male hardline connectors.) Although I took some pictures, I will consult the service manual during re-assembly because it is possible to reverse the two top-to-bottom UT141 hardlines.

Once the two halves were separated enough to allow access to the bottom front of the upper section, I found no decorative trim, but three more fasteners of the same type, which I removed. I also saw several threaded (like machine screw end) visible along the same bottom front area, but fortunately these do not impede separation.

At this point the front panel assembly can move freely (still constrained by numerous wires) from the upper unit body, maybe 50mm clearance possible for access to the failed connector through what would be the bottom and side of the unit nearest the connector. The attachment of the internal connector is a simple hex nut, like used on old style potentiometers.

I believe (tomorrow, hopefully) I will be able replace the 3.5mm male connector from the front panel (remove both ends of the UT141 hardline connecting to the output attenuator.

Two photos are attached, one of the partially separated units, and other close-up of the 3.5mm-type switch connectors that are temporarily removed.


Re: HP 8673D synthesized generator - need replace RF out connector - partial front panel removal suggestions

 

(Yves - I now see from the picture - you were able restore operation by adding component to the existing connector? In my case, the internals of the connector are damaged so my attempt to add component was not successful - very poor RF path resulted. Sorry for the mis-understanding.)


Re: HP 8673D synthesized generator - need replace RF out connector - partial front panel removal suggestions

 

Thank you, Yves - I appreciate your information and agree that the unit is very nice tool (although very heavy!). Fortunately, this unit appears to still work internally, as the problem of leveling/output seems isolated to the periphery of the system, not the internals.

I do not directly see the need to separate the assemblies, provided that I can physically move the upper unit front panel forward slightly to gain access (working inside the gap between the bottom of the relocated upper unit, and the fixed lower unit, it seems access to the mounting nut for the connector should be accessible.

Do you remember what path you followed to reach the connector nut behind the upper unit front panel?

Thank you again!


Re: HP 8673D synthesized generator - need replace RF out connector - partial front panel removal suggestions

 

Hi Dave,

I own an 8673D and I'm very satisfied with this generator; it performs quite
well.
I was able to get it back in exchange for another working instrument,
however, this 8673D was considered DEAD.
After several repairs and... several weeks later, I was facing the same
problem as you: separating the two stages to gain access to the 3.5mm
connector I wanted to replace.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to separate them.
Let's just say I didn't try too hard, but I still removed or freed all the
cables and semi-rigid cables connecting them, and I couldn't find a way to
separate the two front panels.
I thought it was the central screws that were blocking everything.
But according to the procedure you attached, it seems the central screws
weren't involved in the disassembly.
So, I don't know what was preventing the separation.
All the metal support clips were removed.

In my case, it was the external part of the 3.5mm connector that was
slightly damaged.
I had corrected the connector with an exacto, but it was by installing a
3.5mm connector extension that I resolved the problem.
This 3.5mm connector came from a defective (non-repairable) module that
fitted an 83480A.
Since then, it has remained stable and meets specifications.

If you ever find the correct procedure, I would be interested to know it.

Yves


HP 8673D synthesized generator - need replace RF out connector - partial front panel removal suggestions

 

My adventure fixing up my workshop's RF gear brings me to the last repair, the heaviest unit (94 pounds, and I'm older now than when I put it in position!)

The HP 8673D synthesizer uses a 3.5mm male panel connector (used on some other HP units supporting K-band). On this 8673D, at some point someone glued (?) a SMA female-female adapter into the 3.5mm male connector, and subsequently the adapter was sheared off, leaving half it's corpse in the 3.5mm male connector. I tried holding a spare SMA jack in place with a copper pipe cap, however, the RF path is impaired enough with this scheme that return losses badly confuse the leveling loop (otherwise the unit appears to function without errors.)

I have a replacement connector (08673-60040 is the HP part number) in hand.
I have service manual in hand (likewise quite large/heavy).

The procedure for replacing the (A4J1) connector isn't specifically called out, however, it appears the normal course of action is to remove the front panel assembly, gaining access to the back side of the connector. Removing the front panel, like most significant service procedures described in the service manual, begins by "separate the two units". I've attached photo of the relevant start of service sheet A pertaining to disassembly for front panel removal.

My idea is this - the front panel (A4) may (hopefully) only need to be moved slightly forwards (enough to get access to the back side of the RF output connector.) It appears that removal of the four internal screws that hold the front panel casting to the top/bottom internal structure (runs the length of the left and right sides) would allow the front panel to be moved forward away from the body of the unit (I don't know if there is a screw along the bottom front of the top section rendering this idea moot).

Although there are a number of connections (referring to service manual service sheet A), only one appears to be the semi-rigid output coax, and it can be removed from it's top connection (attenuator) easily (the cable cable would then come away with the front panel pulled forward.)

So, looking for any comments, suggestions, observations (and of course can supply any additional images that might be helpful.)

Dave


Switched attenuator issue

 

I've noticed excessive through attenuation with my HP attenuator set (8497K / 8494H).
The repeatability was out of spec. After switching there would be a difference of 0.1 to 0.2dB.
I tried IPA on the RF relay switch contacts with no effect. I was hesitant to try anything more aggressive but with little to loose I applied Deoxit Gold ... and it fixed the problem completely.
?
The spec for through attenuation is 0.4dB + 0.09dB/GHz & 0.6dB + 0.09 dB/GHz. The repeatability is now much better than spec.
?
(I'd already replaced the o-rings)
?


Re: HP 8640b range switch

 

Hi,
I bought one British made last year with obviously such missing ones, (not falling from the body either Mark!) and was also prepared to work there. Then another one presented itself (US made) cheap here in France. What could I do? I bought it and it happens that it's working fine. Even the plastic gears are good. So I neglected the other but I will do it. They are wonderful stuff. Mine have both the 1 GHz option.
Do tell us how it's going Mark
Renaud


Re: HP 8640b range switch

 

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You can count missing contacts by counting the locations on the rotor where the little plastic posts are broken off.

Dave Wise

On Mar 10, 2025, at 10:18 AM, G H via groups.io <gkhoefer@...> wrote:

?
Renuad,
Those are all great places to start. I have one of these units and I used the technique described on these articles. The epoxy/glue option works very well. I did this on all of the wipe contacts whether they were ready to separate/fall off or not. Good insurance down the road for the original ones to stay in place.
?
?


Re: HP 8640b range switch

 

Renuad,
Those are all great places to start. I have one of these units and I used the technique described on these articles. The epoxy/glue option works very well. I did this on all of the wipe contacts whether they were ready to separate/fall off or not. Good insurance down the road for the original ones to stay in place.
?
?


Re: HP 8640b range switch

 

Hello Mark,
Indeed there's a lot on the net about those.
Here are some:
Good luck!
Renaud


Re: HP 8640b range switch

 

There are some good articles on the Internet regarding this problem.
Also there is a web site for a company that offers serving of these units, for a price. You ship the entire unit to them and once repaired they ship it back.
Start up your favorite Internet search engine and fire away.
?


Re: HP8510C TRL Calibration

 

Fixed, thanks Jon.


Re: hp8921a

 

Ian,
?
There's a group for the the HP 892XX series it's /g/HP8924-Family-Spectrum-Analyzers/topics ,? Amtronix supports them & provides help their website is .
The owner is very knowledgeable about them & will answer technical questions.
?
Bill Higdon
?


Re: hp8921a

 

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Thats better, hopefully someone will recognise the issue.

Picture is still a bit fuzzy, though I can easily see the two lines at the top of the screen, the second showing the error.

The other displays, with negative (black) text on a bright background, don't come out too well.

Best Regards.

Dave 'KBV




HP 8640b range switch

 

Hi to the group new to this group I have an HP 8640b the frequency range switch has dropped some of its contacts and looking with the times 30 loop on the plastic discs it looks like I'm missing a couple of contacts that I could not find inside the chassis anybody have any information on how many contacts on each of the three discs that are inside that machine appreciate any help thank you


Re: 34401A issue

 

I saw three and ordered two to have a spare.? Since I have three of this meter and now know about how they can fail I can just replace them as needed.

On 3/9/2025 3:39 PM, Razvan Popescu via groups.io wrote:
Hi Peter,

If I am not mistaken there are 2 Omron relays on the board. If one
failed maybe the other one will fail soon so if you make an order and
have the unit open it is better to replace both.

Regards,
Razvan

On 09/03/2025 20:17, Peter Gottlieb via groups.io wrote:
I have tracked this down to K104 and confirmed by bench test the relay
has a bad side and won't make continuity to the DC high range
attenuator.? With the relay removed I can jumper pins 9 to 13 and get a
voltage reading on the higher range which confirms the rest of the meter
works.
This is an Omron G6AK-274P-STLT-US-5VDC which is commonly available.? I
will get one on order from Mouser.
Peter




Re: PARTS IDENTIFICATION

 

Hi Francesco, just in case this information is still useful to you or anyone else...
These assemblies (mixer plus bracket and two resistors) are from a Marconi X17653 Low-Band Receiver unit, part of the Radar Homing and Warning Receiver (RHWR) system in a Panavia Tornado aircraft.? I bought one of these units from Ebay recently and have been investigating it - the mixer bias supplies are +15V and -15V (connected to the resistors, not directly to the terminals on the mixer).? Thank you for the information about their frequency-range, I might do some more experiments with them.
?
Best regards, Mike Haben


Re: 34401A issue

 

Hi Peter,

If I am not mistaken there are 2 Omron relays on the board. If one
failed maybe the other one will fail soon so if you make an order and
have the unit open it is better to replace both.

Regards,
Razvan

On 09/03/2025 20:17, Peter Gottlieb via groups.io wrote:
I have tracked this down to K104 and confirmed by bench test the relay
has a bad side and won't make continuity to the DC high range
attenuator.? With the relay removed I can jumper pins 9 to 13 and get a
voltage reading on the higher range which confirms the rest of the meter
works.
This is an Omron G6AK-274P-STLT-US-5VDC which is commonly available.? I
will get one on order from Mouser.
Peter


Re: 34401A issue

 

I have tracked this down to K104 and confirmed by bench test the relay has a bad side and won't make continuity to the DC high range attenuator.? With the relay removed I can jumper pins 9 to 13 and get a voltage reading on the higher range which confirms the rest of the meter works.
?
This is an Omron G6AK-274P-STLT-US-5VDC which is commonly available.? I will get one on order from Mouser.
?
Peter


Re: HP 5245L counting/gate problems

 

The 5300-series counters also have the advantage of portability if the battery pack “plug-on” is added.?

Jeremy?
N6WFO?



On Sun, Mar 9, 2025 at 7:11?AM Tom Smith via <n5ama=[email protected]> wrote:
Hi David,
Thanks so much for the reply! My “spare” 5245L counter started working so until I get the repair on the current non HP gear fixed so I won’t be tearing into the busted instrument until those repairs are made. I’ve never had the cover off the 5245 so don’t know what it looks like in there.
In the meantime I bought a 5300B on epay for a reasonable amount and it seems to be working. It’s a smaller counter but just as readable. It may be more difficult to repair because of the smaller size, but for the time being works.
?
Tom N5AMA