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What sort of display is used on a 35670A, and did this change to an LCD at some point? Was a CRT ever used? From this post: /g/HP-Agilent-Keysight-equipment/message/78558 it seems to

I don't really know enough about running HP BASIC programs to say for sure, but HT BASIC does look like a promising option to me. Another option would be to figure out what the program is doing and

If you guys want to watch me unscrew screws for 30 or so minutes feel free: https://photos.app.goo.gl/HiDYBwDeJag5umWA9 (Ignore any awkward background noises, I didn't check the audio. I only recorded

Well good luck - keep us informed. For more information on proper drive, you could look at the schematic of the DP attenuator driver - or masure what the 8566 does - I believe it is a pulse from the

I ordered a breadboard overnight. Never have one when you need it. I have a frightening suspicion, which is that this attenuator works perfectly I just couldn't drive it properly. I hope at least I

I think that is correct. I don't have the problem you do - I bought one of the HP relay drivers and built a small board with a DIP socket, that lets me plug in the attenuator and drive it using the

I'm looking at the board now and other than the ULN2003A drivers, there are 4 D flipflops which makes me wonder if this needs continuous supply in order to retain state correctly. Since I was turning

I already managed to free the leaves. I think I was lucky. They seem ok to me. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HiDYBwDeJag5umWA9 I would guess that the magnet is necessary to make the system bi-stable. The

One thing I forgot to mention is that the magnets are necessary for proper operation of the plungers - I would not try to operate the device with them removed. Again, I will defer to Don Bitters on

Need to see more pictures. Generally, you can manipulate the plunger w/o removing the magnet - but I have not worked on many of the attenuators with the PCB inside - most the simpler variety. You can

Anyway, the plunger thing is going to be a tomorrow problem. I noticed two things upon disassembly. This thing looks brand new inside. I have never ever in my life saw such healthy looking o-rings.

Waaaay too late. On the other hand I didn't need a video for it. I managed to screw that up totally on my own. I noticed now how one of the little flappy flaps is stuck. :/

Pretty good ideas with the stickers. I have done some restorations with both crinkle and hammer finish paints and the trick is to prepare the surface properly before applying paint.? I would take a

This video does not address the hardest (IMO) part of the dissesembyl - detaching the coil assembly from the attenuator. In one of his other videos, he does the disassembly IMPROPERLY, by simply

This should be the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQZxvtEn4T8 BR Tom

Thanks for all the suggestions re panel restoration/hole fixing. I want this to look as original as it can on the outside, despite several component changes/repairs on the inside. So I'm going to fill

Hmm, ok. So if I bought something like HT BASIC to run the listed program from pages 66 to 71 that should theoretically fix it then? Just asking for thoughts and input before I go out and just buy

Check "thesignalpath" on youtube.? Shariar did a complete teardown and repair of an HP step attenuator a few years ago.? It should give you all the guidance you need.? I did a quick search through

The service manual has a section titled "EEPROM Initialization" (starting at page 66) that includes a program that can be run to initialize the EEPROM with the correct data for the different models. I

I recently picked up a 6655 and upon arrival and testing I noticed that it was all screwed up. The voltage output was always ~3ish times higher than what I set it to and I can only set it up to 35.8