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Date
Re: Anyone out there fix a partially working 334A I need desperately to get it up and running!
Certainly it could, but a bit of engineering time would be required to make sure that none of the specifications were compromised... -Chuck Harris n4buq wrote:
By Chuck Harris · #104647 ·
Re: OT: Help identifying these mixers required - ADTEC
Tim, The other device was made by ADTECH as you noted, later ECI, which was bought by Alpha Microwave (when Control Data owned them) and became the basis for their MMW mixer line. My first boss at
By Jeff Kruth · #104646 ·
Re: Anyone out there fix a partially working 334A I need desperately to get it up and running!
Same problem with neon-choppers as found in the 410C. HP replaced that with a fully solid-state board towards the end of production. I wonder if something similar could be done for the 334A? Thanks,
By n4buq · #104645 ·
Re: OT: Help identifying these mixers required
Tim, Demornai-Bonardi 633 devices were directional couplers that coupled to a crystal detector on one coupled side and a flange on the other.? They were generally used with a reflecting cavity
By ebrucehunter · #104644 ·
Re: Hints on removing burned tantalum residue
Thanks everyone for the great suggestions. I will try them all. Starting with the simpler ones then moving up. The RF board is just a simple D/C to DC power supply. I shall report back. Thanks Dave
By Dave Miller · #104643 ·
Re: Hints on removing burned tantalum residue
Thanks Nigel, I have found the IFR group. I should have looked first. Thanks Dave
By Dave Miller · #104642 ·
Re: Anyone out there fix a partially working 334A I need desperately to get it up and running!
The killer problem I have found with 334A's, is they have an optically driven chopper that relies on NE2 style neon bulbs, and CdS photo resistors to do the chopping. The problem is two fold: First,
By Chuck Harris · #104641 ·
Re: Ebay seller called m2wave
One trick that worked always for me: Click on the rating score number: The seller's profile will open. Then click on 'contact member': and check 'This is not about an item' box (important!): This will
By ChrisBeee · #104640 ·
Re: Hints on removing burned tantalum residue
Have you tried the IFR group as well - there are people who have this stuff and might be able to help. ________________________________ Sent: 07 April 2020 03:55:29 To:
By nigel adams · #104639 ·
Re: Hints on removing burned tantalum residue
May I suggest using a glass fiber pen/brush for removing burnt-in particulate matter and charring? I've used them in the past to clean corrosions caused by leaking batteries. Regards Jan Ed Breya via
By Jan Weber · #104638 ·
Re: Optiion upgrade HP 8753C/B
so finally all option successfully installed, thank you all for your helping comments PS: for those who don't want to waste time searching in the service manual I attached the procedure here
By MatejBA · #104637 ·
Re: Hints on removing burned tantalum residue
What a mess - it really did a number on that board section. I agree that acetone would be a pretty good solvent for some of the char, but unfortunately, it may not clean it all off. Some is likely
By Ed Breya · #104636 ·
Re: Optiion upgrade HP 8753C/B (CRT Focus)
My 8753A had a CRT with low intensity as well as beeing unfocused. I have not tried to rejuvinate the CRT, but I took the monitor apart and made a deep cleaning of the HV circuit board. Vacuuming of
By Ulf Kylenfall · #104635 ·
OT: Help identifying these mixers required
Hi all, Pocking around one of my junk boxes I happened across a couple of mixers I picked up on eBay I had completely forgotten about. One is an ADTEC M-10 20, the other is a Demornay/Bonardi DBW-633
By Tim Tuck · #104634 ·
Re: Hints on removing burned tantalum residue
Thanks guys, Good reminder on wooden Q tips. There is also Xylene. (Goof off) I shall go at it slowly. No rush Might have to wait as it¡¯s sort of hard to just pop over to the local store as many are
By Dave Miller · #104633 ·
Re: Hints on removing burned tantalum residue
Make certain it is a wooden steam Q-tip. Acetone will melt the plastic ones. Ken
By ken chalfant · #104632 ·
Re: Hints on removing burned tantalum residue
Try Acetone.? I use it with q-tips and a rag.? Don't pour it on the equipment as it may melt some things.? Just dampen the q-tip or rag with it.? ?Have good ventilation and no open flames!!?
By Bill <ko4nrbs@...> · #104631 ·
Re: 427A volt meter
I¡¯ve got one, it works well. First I suggest checking the power supply for proper voltages and regulation. It might have a filter cap in need of replacement. Jeremy N6WFO wrote:
By Jeremy Nichols · #104630 ·
Re: 427A volt meter
Its a nice little portable meter. They came out when I worked for -hp- and I got one for my bench. There was a story about how it got designed but I've forgotten it. There is a battery only version
By Richard Knoppow · #104629 ·
Re: Anyone out there fix a partially working 334A I need desperately to get it up and running!
I would think that a lot of the answer depends on where you are located. If the meter has to be shipped twice the cost could be very high depending on locations. Stuart K6YAZ Los Angeles, USA
By Stuart Landau · #104628 ·